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Precious - Christening set for 14" newborn baby

darski

By darski
in Free Original Patterns

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darski Grand Master

darski

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Precious – 14” newborn doll :pinterest

 


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the PDF is Here: precious.pdf

SW yarn in white or two colours. You can do it all in pure white and it would look just as good.

5.mm hook
V-st [dc. ch1, dc]

Shell [2dc, ch1, 2dc]

Bonnet
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w/ yarn and 5.mm hook (for lacy look) ch 4…

Row 1: 14 dc into 4th ch from hook (15 dc)

Row 2: 2dc in ea dc.

Row 3: * sc in 1, ch4, sk 1* rep to last 2 sts, sc in 1, ch 1 . dc in beg sc.

Row 4: *sc in loop, ch 3* rep to last and join

Row 5: dc in ea sc and 2 dc in ea ch 3 loop. (60 dc)

Row 6: dc in ea dc – work a bit more tightly … if you can.

Row 7: sc in 13{will be discontinued – neck sts}, dc to end, join and turn.

Row 8: *sc in 1, ch 1, sk 1* rep to last dc.

Row 9: sc in 2, *ch 1, sk 1, sc in sp* rep to last 2, sc in 2. (ch sp counts as st)

Row 10: *slst in 1, ch 3* rep to last slst in last

Work 1st tie ch 30. work 3 sc into 2nd ch from hook. Break off and secure end around tie then tidy away.
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Gown…
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w/ 4.5mm hook and white SW yarn ch 32

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch1. sk1, sc in next* rep to end.


Row 2: work *sc in sc/ ch 2* to end.(16 sc, 15 sp)

Row 3: work a dc in ea sc and alternate between working 3dc then 2 dc in the ch 2 spaces. Begin with a 3dc in first space. (54 dc)

Row 4:*sc in 5, 2 sc in next* rep to end. (63 sc) Quick note… on this one you would end with a --2 sc in last-- in order to avoid this I put the 2sc in the next to last st then end with 1 sc in last. I just like it better this way.

Row 5: dc in 7, 2dc in next 2, dc in 14, 2dc in next 2, dc in 13, 2dc in next 2, dc in 14, 2dc in next 2, dc in 7.

Row 6: sc in 9, sc bet sts, sc in 18, sc bet sts, sc in 17, sc bet sts, sc in 18, sc bet sts, sc in 9.

Row 7: dc in 9, 3dc in next, dc in 18, 3dc in next, dc in 17, 3dc in next, dc in 18, 3dc in next, dc in 9.

Row 8: sc in 11, sk 20, sc in 21, sk 20, sc in 11.

Row 9: hdc evenly across. (43 hdc)

Row 10: sc evenly across.

Row 11: dc in 2: *sk 1 V-st in next* rep to last 2, dc in 2.

Row 12: dc in 2, * shell in V-st, 3dc in next V-st* rep to last 2, dc in 2.

Row 13: dc in 2, *shell in shell, 3dc group in 3 dc group* to last 2, dc in 2 and join.

Row 14: convert the 4 dc into a 3dc group by working 2 dc in beg st dc in sp between sts,* shell in next shell, dc between shell and 3dc group, 3dc group in 3 dc group, dc between 3dc group and shell* repeat to end, finish with one more dc for beg 3dc group.

Row 15-25: 2 dc in 1st st, and work the established pattern but work FPdc around each lone crochet from row 14 {if you know what I mean J }, finish with 1 more dc in 3dc group.

Row 26: work the established shells and 3 dc group but work a FP V-st around each Post st. FP V-st = [FPdc, ch1, FPdc]

Row 27: work a shell in every 3dc group, shell and FP V-st. break off and tidy all ends.

Collar…
Have the dress upside down then att yarn in the first ch 1 sp from Row 1…
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Collar 1: work 3 dc in every ch 1 sp. (45 dc) They can be tricky to spot so just have at it. J

Collar 2: *sc in 2, 2sc in next* rep to end.

Collar 3: dc evenly around.

Collar 4: work sc/ch3 in every st. Break off an tidy all ends.

Edging for sleeves…

Work sc/ch 3 in every st.




Underskirt…


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w/ white SW yarn and 5.mm hook ch 48 and join.
Note: I did as was written and it is a bit of a tight fit to get in on the doll. It looks good once it is on but you may want to add 4 more ch and then adapt your 1st row to allow 1 st per ea back and 2 in front.



Row 1: dc in 6, sk 12, ch 4 dc in 12, sk 12, ch 4 , dc in 6.

Row 2: sc in ea dc and ch. Break off white. And att blue.

Row 3: work in dc and include 6 - 3dc groups. 2ea on front and back and 1 under ea armhole opening.



Row 4-17 : dc evenly …generally but occasionally work 2 (opposite) increases just to keep the form of a slip.

Row 18: work *dc in 3, 3dc in next* around. Be ready to fudge as needed to make it look tidy.

I used the two colours for a better look for the pattern but I think it would be better for the theme (christening) if it were done in all white

Booties…

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All work begins in the heel area…

4.mm hook and SW yarn… ch 6

Row 1: 2hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in 3, 6 hdc in last, hdc in 3, 1 more hdc in beg st

Row 2: hdc in 1st. 2 hdc in next2, hdc in 3, 2hdc in next 6, dc in 3, 2hdc in next, 1 more hdc in beg st.

Row 3: hdc around working 3 inc at ea end.

Row 4: hdc evenly around.

Row 5: hdc around working 6 dec at the toe area.

Row 6: work in hdc making 1 dec at beginning and end.

Row 7: *hdc in 1, ch1, sk 1* rep to end. End w/ hdc in last.

Row 8: note – hdc and ch spaces count in this row. *sc/ch 3 in every st. break off and tidy all ends.





Blankie…
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this is just worked as a giant granny square with V-st [dc. ch1, dc] generally replacing the 3dc groups after row 1.


Note… I rarely ever use a ch1 between dc groups but a V-st provides less volume than a regular granny so I started to work one ch 1 space just before and after each corner. My blankie was starting to cup on me and this little correction seemed to work..


Ch 4 and join to form ring…

Row 1: ch 5, [3dc in ring, ch 2] 3times, 2 dc in ring join to 3rd ch of chain 5.

Row 2: slst into ch space, ch 5, V-st in ch 2 sp, [V-st, ch2, V-st in next corner space] 3 times, dc in beg corner space, ch 1, join to 3rd ch of 5.

Continue to work as a granny square using V-sts. I prefer the beginning ch 5 method because it gives a stronger corner. I did 21 rows before starting the edges. Make as many as works for you and your ‘baby’.

Edging rows….




  • ch 5, 3dc in same sp, work 3 dc in every V-st and work [3dc, ch2, 3dc} in ea corner space, finish with 2 more dc in beginning space.


  • work sc/ch3 in every stitch. In the corners work [sc, ch3, sc] in the same sp.

Break off and tidy all ends.


Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2012

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.

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darski Grand Master

darski

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Waaayy too darn Cute!!!!!!! Thank You soooo much for sharing the pattern. I'd like to know what SW Yarn stands for?

 

Carol:hook

 

SW= Sport Weight. it is a 3 of 6 on the weight scale. It is used for a lot of baby things

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darski Grand Master

darski

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Oh Darski

that set is just wonderful,thanks for sharing

that doll almost looks real,especially the eyes,who made her?

 

 

HE :rofl is a Berenguer LA Newborn. I have another one that is a girl in my mind. They really are neat but they are hard to dress because of the fetal position. :(

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DebraKay Enthusiast

DebraKay

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That is quite a pattern to gift our forum! Thank you very much! It really makes a nice set and I LOVE that baby doll! If I get done with all of the big girl dolls I bought, I might just have to switch to baby dolls and layettes. Very sweet! Nice thing about this pattern is that if you have a preemie in the family, it will probably fit the real baby!

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darski Grand Master

darski

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Love all your patterns, but i don't do dolls, love the baby blanket and started to play around with it but it just gets bunched up, after the ch5, do you do a regular v-stitch or count the ch5 as the first stitch>

 

in the rows of V-sts (after the 1st) the ch 5 stands as a dc/ch 2for the corner. You do the ch 5, make a standard (dc,ch1,dc) V-st into that corner sp. You work your way back to the beginning making V-sts as you go. When you get back to the beginning - the ch 5- you already have the 2nd dc for your V-st so you do a dc/ch1 into the corner space and then join in the 3rd ch of 5.

 

I like the fact that it is a quick slst into the corner space with this method and it makes for a stronger corner. if you can make a standard granny square, you could do this blankie using your own method of construction. :yes

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