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Take Me Away - 18" doll - Image Intense

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Take Me Away – 18” doll :pinterest

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]It is November here as I am making this outfit. Around here November is grey. The sky is grey, the grass is getting grey and even my beloved canal water seems to take on the grey. So… when I got the yummy peachy yarn it just got my little pea brain to thinking of fun in the sun cruises and such. This outfit is to take our girl out shopping in a Caribbean market. Bring on the sun!

Instructions for 3 Tr cluster
http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa053103.htm



The top…


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4.5mm hook
Beehive Astra yarn- it seems to be a hefty Sport weight yarn. (a 3.25 on a scale to 6)

Ch 20…

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2, hdc in 5, dc in 11. (3sc, 5hdc, 11dc)

Row 2: dc in 10, hdc in 6, sc in 3. (3sc, 6 hdc, 10dc)

Row 3: sc in 3, hdc in 5, dc in 11. (3sc, 5hdc, 11dc)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until it fits easily around the doll’s midriff. End at bottom of skirt. I did 51 rows. End off with a goodly tail, Align the two edges and sew together for about 2 inches.

Flatten the skirt with Centre Back seam in the centre to set your side seams. Mark the side seams

Adding the bodice…

Leave a goodly tail for sewing the shoulder seam later…

You are going to work a short chain then pick up and work across the front skirt stitches and finish with another short chain.. ok, ready to go J

Chain 13, sc across the skirt stitches you have marked for front, ch 14.

Row 2: sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 11, work double dec in corner, sc to last 2 sc across skirt, work double dec in corner, sc along ch..

Row 3: work in sc with double dec in ea corner. Secure yarn but DNBO. Attach a trim colour.


Row 4: work as row three. Break off trim colour and tidy ends or use the tails to add trims. Pick up main colour…

Rows 5 -8 : continue to work as row 3. break off.

Work the backs as for the front. In order to make the backs match you have to begin one with the ch 13 and sc across and the other one has to start with sc across and ch 14. If you don’t care about the matching you can start both with ch 13/sc across.


Sew the shoulder seams.

Back edging..
Att yarn at top left inside.

Sc to the top right edge, ch 1 turn. work back over the sts forming button loops along right edge. Break off and tidy ends.

Sleeves…

Att yarn in armhole base and work sc . Work [ch3. sk 1, sc in next] around sleeve opening. End w/ ch 1, hdc into beg sc.

Work a row of ch 4 loops and then a row of ch 5 loops.



Capris…

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Finish off after both legs are made.


w/ yellow WW yarn and 5.mm hook

ch 20

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook an in each ch across. (18dc)

Row 2: sc across.

Row 3: sc across and join keeping the good side out. Ch 1, turn.

Row 4-8: dc around increasing by one on ea row. Stagger increases. Break off

Align the two legs so that the slits are on the outside.

Your Torso rows begin and end at Centre Front.

T Row 1: Align the two legs and join with 6 sc, ch 1. Begin working in dc around the leg sections, Put the first dc in the same stitch as the sc join.

It might be helpful here to go to the back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 7 from the Centre Back join on each side.

Dc to your first marker… work [2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc] over the five stitches, work 1 TR into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in dc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join.

Row T2-T4: work evenly in dc.

Row T5: work dc but work 1 decrease on each side of back (2 decreases). Break off yellow. Att green…

Row T6: work a row of hdc around an elastic waistband. Join. Break off and tidy all ends.

Thread colours through sts on rows 2 and 3.


Shoes…


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w/ green WW yarn and 5.mm hook… ch 6

Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in next 2, 6 hdc in last ch, hdc in 2, sc in 1, 1 more sc in beg st.

Row 2: hdc around increasing at heel and toe as needed to keep sole flat. Ch 1,

Row 3: flip sole good side down and work FPsc in ea st. join and break off.

Att yellow yarn at heel …

Row 4: Hdc in 1, hdc dec, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc dec.

Row 5:Mark the 9 sts at the front… hdc in 1, hdc dec, hdc to marker, ch 2, sk 3 sts, work a 3tr cluster in toe sts, ch 2, sk 3 sts, hdc to end as in the pic. (you can switch the dec to the other end on the 2nd shoe for symmetry.)

Tie top colours around the Tr cluster.

The hat…


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WW yarn and 4.5mm hook


Row 1: ch 5, *dc in 5th ch from hook, ch 1* rep 7 times. Join w/ sl st in 4th ch of 5.

Row 2: st w/ a ch 4 and then work a ch 1 mesh in every dc and ch 1 space.

Row 3: ch5,*dc in next dc, ch 2* rep to end. And join.

Row 4: *sc in dc, 2 sc in ch 2 sp* rep to rnd. Ch 1, flip crown good side down.

Row 5: FPsc in every sc.

Row 6: ch 5, turn, *sk 2, dc in next, ch 2* rep to end and join in 3rd ch of 5.

Row 7: ch 5, *dc in next dc, ch 2* rep to end and join.

Row 8: ch 4, 2 dc in same st, work shell
[2dc, ch1, 2dc] in ea dc, 1 more dc in beg st and join. Break off and tidy ends.

The bag…

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w/ WW yarn and 5.mm hook ch 14…

Row 1: sc in 2ndc ch from hook and in next 2 ch, hdc in 4, dc in 5, 2 dc in last, (cont along other side) dc in 5, hdc in 4, sc in 3 and join.

Work in continuous rounds of sc until bag is
2 ¼” high.

Make 2 dec at ea end of the bag.

Work a sl st to end spirals… ch 30 for strap and join w/ sl st to other side.

Note. I left a loooong tail on this so that I could thread it along the inside and use it for more beads.





Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2010

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.

Edited by darski
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Wow!!! You have certainly been on a roll lately!!! Thank you so much for sharing your talent with us, your patterns really are just adorable!! :hug

Thank you again :manyheart

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Awesome..I get excited when I see a new 18in. doll pattern!! My nieces will surely thank you for sharing these with us!! :)

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Great pattern need to start making doll clothes for my AMG doll. She's Indian and would love a new wardrobe!

 

I would be interested in getting your thoughts on this technique. I like it but it was not 'exactly' what I thought it would be. :think

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Just georgeous - your patterns are really fantastic. I'm going to try and make one or two, they look a little complicated for my abilities.

 

Susie:cheer

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Just georgeous - your patterns are really fantastic. I'm going to try and make one or two, they look a little complicated for my abilities.

 

Susie:cheer

 

thank you. Many of the patterns are rather simply done but once in a while - like with this top- I get "involved" :wlol

 

You can always ask for help if you get stuck.

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I am having trouble with understanding how to join the legs of the capris. Can you explain to me how I "align" them and then start making the torso? I love your patterns and am having fun making them. Thanks for your help.

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I am having trouble with understanding how to join the legs of the capris. Can you explain to me how I "align" them and then start making the torso? I love your patterns and am having fun making them. Thanks for your help.

 

these pics should explain it

 

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Thank you!!! I appreciate it so much. Now I can complete this outfit.

 

you are welcome :ghug

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Your doll clothes are so nice. I have ordered 18" dolls for Christmas gifts now your clothes really have my attention.

Thanks for sharing your talent and hard work. 

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