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Black and White & Red all over. 18" doll-- PDF added

darski

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darski Grand Master

darski

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Black and White & Red all over… 18” doll

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The PDF is here:BW&R.pdf

Pants…

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3 colours of WW yarn an 5.5mm hook

1st Leg

Ch 18 with black yarn.

Rows 1-3: dc evenly,

Row 4: inc by one .

Row 5: dc evenly. Break off black att red yarn

Rows 6-8: work in dc w/ inc on 6 and 8. break off red. Att black

Rows 9-10: dc w/ inc on row 10




2nd leg…

w/ black yarn ch 18 and join.

Row 1: dc evenly. secure but DNBO black. Att white

Row 2: work evenly in dc. secure but DNBO white..
Continue alternating black and white rows with increases on rows 4,6,8,10. Break off white. Att black and go on to torso rows.


Your Torso rows begin and end at Centre Front.

T Row 1: Align the two legs and join with 6 sc, ch 1. Begin working in dc around the leg sections, Put the first dc in the same stitch as the sc join.

It might be helpful here to go to the back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 5 from the Centre Back join on each side.

Dc to your first marker… work [2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc,] over the five stitches, work 1 TR into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in dc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join.

Row T2-T4: work evenly in dc.

Row T5: work dc but work 1 decrease on each side of back (2 decreases) .

Row T6: work dc but work 1 decrease on each side of front (2 decreases) .

Row T7: work a row of sc around an elastic waistband. Join. Break off and tidy all ends.

Note: you could probably do one less row before making the waistband.

Top…


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w/ red ch 41

Row 1:sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 5 ch, hdc dec, hdc in next 6, dc in 5, dc dec, [2dc, 2 tr, 2 dc] in next, dc dec. dc in 2, hdc in 5, hdc dec, sc in 7. ch 1 turn.



Row 2: sc in 16, sc dec, 3 sc in next, sc dec, sc in 20. break off red and tidy ends. Att white yarn.

Row 3: work across in sc working the [sc dec, 3 sc in top, sc dec] at the peak of shell. Secure but DNBO white but att black yarn.

Row 4: work in dc working the [dc dec, 3dc in top, dc dec] at peak . secure but DNBO white. Pick up white

Row 5-8: work in dc and do not do decreases but do the 3 dc in top of shell. Alternate between black and white yarn.

Row 9: with white; work as previous row but in sc. Break off white. Pick up black

Row 10: as row 9. Break off black.

Return to bodice edge and att red yarn. Work a row of sc into rem loops of original ch to tidy up the row. Work all chains with one sc. do not do a dec to match dec on the other side and do not add sts where many sts were added. 40 sc. Divide into fronts and backs.
10 – sk1- 18 – sk1 -10.

Right back…

Row 1-4: work in hdc working 2 hdc in every sleeve edge st.

Row 5: 2 hdc in 1st, hdc to last 4, sc in 4.

Row 6: sc in 5, hdc to last, 2 hdc in last.

Row 7: hdc in 8. sl st in next. break off leaving a goodly tail to sew seam later.

Front…

Att red yarn in 1st designated front st.

Row 1-4 2 hdc in 1st, hdc to last, 2 hdc in last.

Row 5: 2hdc in 1st , hdc in 10, sc in 3, hdc in 10, 2 hdc in last

Row 6: 2hdc in 1st, hdc in 9, sc in 7, hdc in 9, 2hdc in last.

Row 7: hdc in 8, sc in 1, sc dec next, sc in 7, sc dec next, sc in 1, hdc in 8. Break off and tidy end.

Left back : work as for right back mirroring the edges. Break off leaving a goodly tail for sewing.

Sew the shoulder seams across the 8 hdc sts. Be careful to keep the chevron on the left front side (l.f. as worn)

Edging… attach yarn at top back right edge. Sc along back edge working in button loops as you go, work along the bottom edge as established to maintain the point then sc up the left back edge.

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The Scarf…

w/ white yarn… ch 100. slst in every ch/ break off and tidy ends. Add beads if you wish.




Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2010

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.

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Edited by darski
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nina ricci Newbie

nina ricci

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I've got the bottom all done now im at the section where return to bodice , working a row of sc of rem loop , is this where we go around the outside of the bottom section with the red yarn ?

As far a s working the back and dividing into front and back I'm completely lost can you explain it a little better for me ,or  post a picture of where I would start the right back and then the front .   the front says att red yarn in 1st designated front st , where is  that? 

Love the look of this pattern  can't wait to finish it , your help  would be so appreciated , thanks so much.

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darski Grand Master

darski

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4 hours ago, nina ricci said:

I've got the bottom all done now im at the section where return to bodice , working a row of sc of rem loop , is this where we go around the outside of the bottom section with the red yarn ?

As far a s working the back and dividing into front and back I'm completely lost can you explain it a little better for me ,or  post a picture of where I would start the right back and then the front .   the front says att red yarn in 1st designated front st , where is  that? 

Love the look of this pattern  can't wait to finish it , your help  would be so appreciated , thanks so much.

in the first row you have 40 sts.  to work front and backs you will divide it up as such : back:10st – sk1 st - front 18st  – sk1 st -back 10 st (see above :  10 – sk1- 18 – sk1 -10.)

therefore the first designated front stitch would be 12 st from the edge. you work 10 for a back, you skip one and then you are at the front sts.  you start the right front at the working edge of your top; you will work your front sts and then you will work the left back.  the shoulders are stitched together later.

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nina ricci Newbie

nina ricci

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I've got the bottom all done now im at the section where return to bodice , working a row of sc of rem loop , is this where we go around the outside of the bottom section with the red yarn ?

As far a s working the back and dividing into front and back I'm completely lost can you explain it a little better for me ,or  post a picture of where I would start the right back and then the front .   the front says att red yarn in 1st designated front st , where is  that? 

Love the look of this pattern  can't wait to finish it , your help  would be so appreciated , thanks so much.

 

thanks for getting back to me  I did manage to figure it out but i'm not sure it's correct  could you post a picture of the back?  Another thing that's confusing me  in the directions for the front and back do you ch at the end of the rows?i\

 

Edited by nina ricci
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darski Grand Master

darski

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I'm afraid I don't have any pics of the back.  I did this years ago and it was donated when it was finished.

I rarely ever give directions for ch at the beginning of rows. 

I assume that most people know how to do this (either ch 2 or 3 as they wish) and I usually use the technique from this vid start at about 2:12.

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nina ricci Newbie

nina ricci

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This is the first time I've used any of your patterns, I did think that was the case,  Thank you very much for getting back to me.   I think I know what I did wrong , hopefully I'll get it right  and won't have to bother you again, Thanks again. have a great day

 

 

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Granny Square Grand Master

Granny Square

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Hi, welcome to the 'ville.  I'm not the designer but I'll try to help by describing the general construction.  It's a little strange the first time you run into something like this.

You make the 2 pant legs separately (2 tubes), and then you connect them at the crotch at the same same time as you start the torso/pelvis area.

Holding the 2 tubes together, you connect them at the top with 6 stitches, creating the crotch seam.  You won't be crocheting into these 6 stitches again.

If you look at the top of the 2 now connected tubes, it forms a figure 8.  You are going to be working around the edges of the 8 in rounds, where 1 round is:

From 1 outside edge of the crotch seam, stitch around the top edge of leg 1 to the opposite edge of the crotch seam, and continue around the top edge of leg 2 until you are back where you started.  So you are working in one big circle now, around the hips.

I didn't mention the markers and the increases, but I think once you get past connecting the 2 legs and working around one big circle that the 2 legs became, it will make more sense.

 

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