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Granny Square

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Everything posted by Granny Square

  1. Yay , happy to help!
  2. That doll is adorable! Looking at round 1: Does the pattern define NJ--new join I assume? Also, BL and FL are pretty standard abbreviations (back loop, front loop), and I'm guessing BB is back bump. Actually the part that made me tilt my head is 'crochet 13 times' but it makes sense if you sub 'repeat' for 'crochet'. Round 1 looks like you are making the hair strands for the back of the hair first (24 stitches), and then the shorter bangs (8 stitches). I assume rounds 1-4 are in rounds and in yellow, top of the head down; the new round 1 is made by: *make a long chain (which is the base of a strand of hair) and slip stitch back to the 'scalp', repeat from *, with the long hair being across 24 chains sticking out of the head (and 22 slip stitches back to the head), and the bangs being across 8 chains and 6 slip stitches back to the head. I described all the things that struck me as a little 'different' or possibly hard to imagine 'where the pattern was going', is there something else does not make sense to you?
  3. Hi and welcome! What a sweet thing to do for your grand niece! Actually you have already done the hard part figuring out the whole hexagon. The half-hex starts the same way, from a magic circle in the center--except that instead of going all the way around the circle, you go half way around, turn, work back, turn...you already have a half hex to look at so you can count stitches. The chains you are looking at on the long straight side are the ends of alternate rows where there is a chain 3, turn...and so on.
  4. Also the basic c2c/brick/crazy stitch and whatever else it's called, has 3, 4 and I think also 5 stitch variations, for me 3 stitches would probably be squarer than 4 but that's another thing to look at for your own stitch height to width ratio.
  5. I don't see why not in theory, except you'd want to pick a tiny cross-stitch pattern--a 1 c2c 'block' in worsted-weight yarn is probably more or less 1" square, and a cross stitch is probably about 1/5th of an inch square, so (example) if you wanted a 35" square baby blanket, you'd need to use a 7" cross stitch pattern - guessing at the measurements and 'eyeballing' them in my head, but you get the idea to calculate the real numbers yourself.... ...which brings us to the ratio which is 'up to you'. I make sort stitches so my ratio might be different than yours if your stitches are loftier. Make a small swatch in c2c, or measure an existing project and see how square your blocks are to answer that question.
  6. I knit and crochet, and I am not ruling out it being crochet, but leaning toward it being knit stockinette by a knitter who doesn't realize they are working in the 'wrong' leg of the stitch and twisting their stitches (this is not an uncommon thing). I would recommend US SC (same as UK DC, I'm not sure where you are). US DC or UK Treble would be too loose, you'd want as tight a stitch as possible--if it is stuffed, you want the fabric as solid as possible so the stuffing to stay in there, and if not, tighter would give it structure so it might not need stuffing. Some free crochet patterns in bulky weight yarn-- http://www.lionbrand.com/crochet-pattern-curl-up-kitty-cat-bed.html?noImages=0;ss= looks like the stripes are added at the end, so optional http://littlemonkeyscrochet.com/tabby-chic-cat-bed/ not the twisted look you liked, but another interesting look https://www.woolstreet.ca/crochet-cat-bed-pattern/ https://thecrochetcrowd.com/crochet-padded-rim-cat-nap-bed/ this says it's stuffed https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-sleepy-kitty-bed http://dolls-yarns.blogspot.com/2017/11/free-project-fluffy-dreams-pet-bed.html stuffed
  7. Your math and my calculator agree. I've not made this, but Darski does pop in here every so often so you might also ask on the pattern page or send her a pm (at the top left dark blue menu that stays 'put' when you scroll up and down, it's the 'message' icon -- looks like 2 comic-strip speech bubbles).
  8. Granny Square

    Atsen

    https://us.deramores.com/products/dandelion-cushion-by-zoe-potrac-in-deramores-studio-dk?variant=23738435862586 I knit too, tho lots more experience in crochet. In the US there is an organization for knit and crochet (Craft guild of America) that gives 'pattern grammar' standards for both crafts, and yarn patterns from yarn companies, books and magazines usually follow them pretty well. Where one more typically encounter poorly written patterns is in a small % of personal blogs or self published patterns--some are truly ghastly. That is a pretty pattern! And now that I see it, I'm amending my theory - but just a little. Actually for a pillow, this construction makes a LOT of sense; I was going with rectangle because of the measurements you gave. Meanwhile, a little crochet 'stitch behavior' lesson: Knit stitches have a lovely tendency to stack up tidily on top of each other, whether worked in the round or in turned rows. Crochet stitches, alas, do not - the 'stitch tops' don't sit directly on top of the stitches, but rather to the right (probably to the left if one is left handed, not sure). To illustrate: Turned Rows: The skew more or less cancels out the skew so the stitches seem more aligned. /////// \\\\\\\ /////// \\\\\\\ In the round, same side facing: the skew compounds itself--the red stitches as they appear in 1 column (red stitch made into the red stitch below) /////// /////// /////// /////// Now look at your pattern's photo--the stitches of the body of the pillow are drifting to the right - this, and the appearance of the stitches, tells me that the pillow is actually made IN THE ROUND. The shape is like a sack, 1 continuous piece that you will sew up at the top after adding the flowers and stuffing. So you are making an oval at the bottom, and then working round and around until you reach 40 cm. If you lay it flat, and your stitch tension is right, yes it will measure 40x40cm (on 1 side). edit-totally up to you, but if I were making this, I would not join the rounds--reason: joining rounds is going to make an obvious 'seam', which is going to slant like the stitches do if you don't also turn your work. There are valid reasons to join rounds for other purposes or stitch patterns, but in the case of THIS pattern, working round and round in a spiral (like most knitted tubes) and eliminate the 'seam', will look much better/uniform.
  9. Granny Square

    Atsen

    Hmm...the only thing that occurs to me is that you may be making a rectangle 80x40cm (which you could do in the 'oval' way, just making squared off corners at each end instead of half-rounds), then folding and sewing into a square. Is there a link where we can see what the end result is supposed to look like, or can you give the name of the pattern and the source and we might be able to find it?
  10. Granny Square

    Self

    I answered in your other post.
  11. Granny Square

    Sherry

    Welcome to the 'ville--you should probably edit your post to delete your e-mail since this is a public forum. A dc2tog is made by: Step 1--make the first DC and stop at the point where the next step would be finishing it by yo and pulling thru the last 2 loops. There are 2 loops on your hook. Step 2-- yo, make another DC and again, stop at the point where the next step would be finishing it by yo and pulling thru the last 2 loops--except now there will be 3 loops on your hook. YO, pull thru all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitch 'bottoms' into 1 stitch 'top', so is a decrease. Note, this is the same as a 2 DC cluster except 2dctog is made in 2 stitches, the cluster is 2 partial DCs joined together in 1 stitch.
  12. Was this it by any chance? Not a link to buy the pattern, but if it is the right one it tells you what magazine and issue # it was in, maybe someone is selling their old pattern books on ebay or Amazon... https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/heart-tugs
  13. Granny Square

    Atsen

    Good point on the stitch markers, I do that to mark the first stitch, and pertinent spots of the increases on each end to keep my bearings on where the increases are supposed to start
  14. Granny Square

    Atsen

    You are making an oval. A bit of advice - if you normally work into a chain by using the back bump, this method does not work as well for an oval - I suggest starting by working into the top loop to start with (top loop with the chain side facing you, and the back bump away from you). This will avoid the tension issues of the back loop and make the second pass much easier. Recipe for an oval: work 1 stitch across the chain, except in the last chain make several stitches (depending on the stitch you are using) to 'turn the corner' so the underside of the chain is now facing up, and then continue using the loops you didn't use on the first pass, then add a bunch of stitches back at the beginning end to turn the other corner, and you are back to the first stitch. If this is still confusing, there are youtubes for generic ovals that show you the concept, it IS a little mind bending the first time you do it.
  15. Granny Square

    Mrs

    You increase in every stitch in round 2, to bring 8 stitches to 16. (an increase of eight) 😎 You increase in every OTHER stitch in round 3, every even numbered stitch to be precises, you you make 1 stitch into every odd numbered stitch and 2 stitches into every even numbered stitch, so increase in stitch 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16. Those are 8 even numbers, so you will have increased 8 stitches from round 2. So the 7 is a semantics thing (you are not the only one to question this sort of wording). "Do x, repeat 7 times" means you are doing x a total of 8 times. Oops, I didn't notice that little smiley face with the shades when I hit post, but I'll leave it there! I guess that's what happens when you hit 8 and an end parenthesis
  16. Very nice, thank you for sharing your pattern! And timely, I just looked at our thermometer and it is 100°F outside right now
  17. Try checking the magazine's website, they have an errata page, but you need to search by the issue number, not the pattern name. Rows 56,57,58,59,60,61=6 stitches, is the pattern repeat 6 stitches? You have made 2 rows, 56 minus 2 is 54, and 54 is divisible by 6. So it's not improbable to repeat the graph as you are guessing math-wise, and then maybe mirror the beginning by finishing it off by a row of tr. What does the pattern photo look like? Does it confirm the chart is repeating like you are guessing? These are the sort of questions I ask myself when I play Sherlock Holmes on a confusing pattern...
  18. Sounds right to me, up to you on whether the last ch1 is needed or not but otherwise that is what the pattern says.
  19. It's ok to copy a couple of lines of the pattern, or a few stitch names that you are questioning, just not the whole pattern here. In a nutshell: chain and slip stitch are defined the same in both UK and US. SC does not exist in UK terms. All other stitch name are 'promoted' one level, i.e. US SC=UK DC, US HDC=UK HTR, US DC=TR, and so on. I'm referring to primary stitches, not compound stitches that are made of multiple primary stitches. There are sometimes other minor vocabulary differences that one or the other side of the pond might find quirky (but not unintelligible), like 'miss' in UK = 'skip' in US for example, but it's really only the single stitch names that use the same word to mean something else. A compound stitch in UK or US should be defined specifically, example a pattern should never just say 'dc, ch1, shell, ch1..." without defining what 'shell' means--the biggest chapter in my stitch dictionary is devoted to shell stitch variations. And, a lot of compound stitches have many names, and some names are used for more than one compound stitch in the US, so I imagine the same thing happens in the UK.
  20. Welcome to the 'ville! You appear to be making a flat circle (which is how the first few rounds bunny's head might start, for example, before becoming a sphere). I'm guessing you started with 6 dc in a ring, and rnd 3 was 2 dc in each stitch for a total of 12. The 'recipe' for a flat circle in UK dc is start with 6 stitches and increase by 6 each round. The numbers at the end of the round is the total # of stitches you should have at the end of the round, so you can double check to make sure all is well. I'm going to copy and slightly edit the pattern part above: R3>*inc,dc into next 1 stitch*repeat from *to*. 18 stitches R4>*inc,dc into next 2 stitches* repeat *to* 24 stitches R5>*inc,dc into next 3 stitches* repeat *to* 30 stitches R6>*inc,dc into next 4 stitches* repeat *to* 36 stitches See the pattern forming? Each round is "the same" in that you are always adding 6 stitches, except each row the increases are 1 stitch farther apart.
  21. ^ What she said. Your prior row must have had 31 stitches, you chained 14, skipped the first chain, worked across 13 chains + 31 stitches = 44 stitches
  22. Granny Square

    Vicky

    Welcome to the 'ville! There are a couple of possibilities I can guess at, but it would help if I could see what the finished thing looked like - what is the name & source of the pattern, or is there a link where I can see the finished item? Meanwhile, my guesses: (1) Because it says "in" next tr of row 1, which is 3 rows below, I'm imagining a scenario where there is at least a 1 chain gap over that stitch (in other words, row 2 said something like "chain 1, skip the next tr" at that point, which leaves the top of that tr exposed so you can now to work into it. (2) Similar to the above, if you are working in the round same side facing, it may have had you work that tr in row 1 in the back loop, leaving the front loop unused, and now you are to reach down from row 4 and insert the hook in that front loop and make a raised stitch over the surface of the fabric; I have seen this technique used in lace doilies. This would NOT be a possibility if you were working in rows & turning, you could only jump down an even # of rows (like row 4 to row 2, not 1) because the skipped front on the back side of the fabric if you skipped an odd number of rows. (this sounds more complicated than it is...) (3) You are shaping something with short rows (rows that don't go all the way across), and you are being asked to 'jump off a cliff' with your next stitch, if that makes sense--but this is sort of a big jump if so, it's more usual to 'jump' 2 rows down, not 3 for shaping. (4) Less likely because of the wording, is that you are to make a post stitch around (not in) that treble, but it should have said front or back post if this was the case.
  23. [sc x 5, inv dec] is worked over 7 stitches (to yield 6)- if this is the direction for the whole round, you have to have a multiple of 7 sts to start with. If you don't, something went wrong before this round (or the pattern has an error). And of course it follows if something is wrong on this round, the setup will be wrong for the following rounds....is there a total stitch count given for each round? Since this is something that will probably not be noticeable if you fudge a bit, and you are ONLY short 1 stitch on the [sc x 5, inv dec, rpt] row, I'd be inclined to omit the last decrease (which will add the 1 stitch back in)- and then count the stitches that you have at that point, and make sure that you have a multiple of 6 stitches so the following round (and hopefully the rest of them) comes out right.
  24. Welcome to the 'ville! This is almost an hour long video (which I didn't watch), but it sounds like there is a 'generic something' going on that has nothing to do with the pattern. This looks like it is mostly, if not all, DC and chains (I'm using US crochet terms, if you are in the UK, trebles & chains). By 'first sharp point' I assume you are meaning to say that when you reach a corner, you have too many stitches. And by '3 projects so far', I'm guessing you are a fairly new crocheter. Something that is the subject of a lot of threads here by new crocheters has to do with the turning chain, and there are different 'rules' in dealing with them depending on the stitch you are starting the next row with--and if you don't know the rule, you will add stitches and not understand why. Here is a tutorial which goes into more detail, and has other good stuff, but the short version: (also in US terms). SC: turning chain is 1, and does not count as a stitch, which means it is understood that you will not be crocheting into that chain (unless the pattern explicitly TELLS you to, which is unusual) DC: here it starts to get tricky, because the turning chain DOES count a a stitch (again, the exception is unusual and the pattern will spell it out). The turning chain is 3 because the stitch is taller; it DOES count as a stitch. This means you have to follow this rule or you will accidentally add a stitch: you need to skip the first real stitch of the row below, and make your first real DC into the following stitch. Now you have 2 functional DCs, the chain3 and the real DC; the reason that you skip the first real stitch in the row is because the turning chain 'acts like it's in' that first stitch, even tho it's really hanging alongside it. Also, you need to crochet into the topmost chain of this turning chain when you come back to it, at the end of the following row, because remember the chain counts as a stitch--if you don't, you will lose a stitch.
  25. Welcome to the 'ville! "Maybe", depending on what might look like a 'design feature' not a 'bug' to you, and how much too narrow it is. Probably the least 'bug' looking /easiest idea would be to keep going. Let's say you decided the blanket was 12" too narrow. Add the next skein, and the next, until you are 12" too-short. Then, work around the blanket with a 6" border all around* - throwing this out there in case you haven't run into this before, to turn a 90° corner in SC, put 3 stitches into the corner; in DC, put 5 stitches (I like to have the middle stitch be a chain, it turns a squarer corner). If you are making the blanket in a not-plain stitch, making the border in a plain stitch would make the edges sturdier, which is a good thing, and help to make it look like 'not a bug'. * adds 6" top and bottom =12", and 6" left & right side=12"
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