Granny Square

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Granny Square

  1. Aw, he's so sweet. Love his turkey friends, too.
  2. Hi Magic, I'm not sure if we synced but I answered the OP's other post in the help section earlier; tried to explain spots that are often the subject of beginner questions. I guess I didn't scroll down far enough to see this post
  3. Well, posting that much of a pattern on this forum would be a violation of copyright and this forum's rules, but I'll try to help. Also, 'the first 12 rows' is really the WHOLE pattern. I'm not sure if you meant by 'post' , to post a video, but that would be against the rules as well. This pattern has a stitch diagram, if you scroll own; it's really helpful if you learn how to read these, they can answer a lot of questions. The plus signs are SC, the ovals are chains, the things that look like a V with crossed lines shows 2 SC into 1 stitch. I'll try to pick out the pieces that might be confusing, and gets asked often by other new crocheters... The project has 3 colors, A, B, and C. At the beginning, where it says CA, it means color A. Further down, below the stitch diagram, there is a list of which rows are to be color A, B, and C. Where you see something inside brackets, for example [1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc], it means to do all the things in the bracket, in 1 stitch. At the end of the row, after the stitch instructions, it gives you a count of the stitches in that row; example row 1 ends with " -- 3 sc". That's a summary just to help you make sure that you didn't miss something; if your stitch count is different you'll need to figure out where you went wrong. An asterisk * indicates you are to repeat a set of instructions. It first appears in row 5, and tells you how many times to repeat it. Here is a helpful site that may help you to read patterns. On the menu on the right side, look at "crochet patterns- how to read" and "crochet chart symbols" (lots of other good stuff there, too)
  4. You're welcome! Your dolls are a hoot, but that's OK, I'm glad to help. It only took a couple of minutes to work up 3 rows, rip out 2, and re-do swatch was pretty small (on my monitor the pics are much bigger than the swatches were). I was also curious to see what would happen with your suggestion to omit the increases.
  5. Redroses, somehow I missed your last comment until now. I took a look at the pattern, it's in UK terms but the designer says so right away and explains the difference, and also gives clear stitch definitions for her terms. She also is quite chatty and says things like 'now the next step is a little fiddly, what you'll be doing is...' which I think would be very helpful for a beginner--or at least rate it on the 'easy' end; I agree with Apak and don't think a toy of any sort is a good 'very first' project. It got high approval/low difficulty ratings on Rav.
  6. Ok, I made a mini shawl, followed your pattern for 3 rows except instead of starting with 11 stitches between V stitches, I had only 2. I knew your suggestion was going to curl/cup, but I'm surprised it was so exaggerated on my small scale. First pic is following your pattern, little igloo pic is same first row, but putting 1 DC where a V stitch should be in the next 2 rows; so the only increases were per pattern, at the open edges. (First pic - I don't know what's up with my scanner, trust me it laid nice and flat and looked the same on the cut-off side). Also, second pic --weird the difference between colors between camera and scanner, it really is the same (dark grey) yarn.
  7. Whoa, now you've lost me. You are never making anything more than one V stitch, into a V stitch. The place were DC counts proliferate is between the V stitches and end increases.
  8. If you only increase 1 at each end, and 'leave the V stitches alone' and not increasing there, your piece will be an odd looking scarf. Look at the pattern photo where it is spread out flat -you are making a big circle. or really a big hexagon that's missing 2 segments. If you were making a true circle (like a round rug) in DC, the 'recipe' for doing so is to increase 12 stitches in each round to keep it flat as it grows outward. You are just missing 2 segments of that circle, therefore you should be making 2 (segments) x 2 (increases per segment) = 4 fewer increases. 12 (for a full circle) - 8 (your pattern's 2/3rds of a circle's compliment of increases) = 4. So, the pattern is correct as written to create the shape you are seeing.
  9. I thought this was a duplicate post, but this is a different question than your earlier gauge question. My answer is 'it depends'. You can sub as your heart desires BUT just need to be aware of the fiber content behavior, and ensure it is appropriate for the use of the item. What you don't want to do is mix fibers in a project(could be a disaster if they have different laundering features), and you don't want to use acrylic for a pot holder (it could melt or burn you; cotton or wool are ideal for heat). Also, acrylic may not be the ideal thing for something that needs to be aggressively blocked. Cotton can be tricky for wearables because it stretches out as you wear it (goes back to shape when you wash it; I understand linen is the same way). You probably wouldn't want to use scrubby yarn for a scarf (unless it's a gift, and you don't like the person...kidding!)
  10. Example, I'm just looking at Red Heart yarns (finding lots of 'flavors' I'd not seen before)...all are worsted/medium/US #4 yarn weight. Not cherry-picking, these are the gauges for the first 4 listed on the 4/medium weight class on this page Dreamy - 11 SC, 13 Rows = 4”, size 6 mm, US K-10.5 hook Gleam - 12 sc, 14 rows = 4” size 5.5 mm (US I-9) Hopscotch - 12 sc, 15 rows = 4” size 5.5 mm (US I-9) Creme de la Creme - 12 sc, 16 rows = 4” size H8/5mm These may look close, but they're different row gauges and different hook sizes. For a wearable a fraction of a stitch per inch makes a big difference. Just thought of another point...a pattern tension may be given 'in pattern', and could be something lacy, in the round, whatever. The yarn label is assuming straight SC.
  11. No. The label gauge is just a very general ballpark number, I never look at the label gauge. Everybody, including designers, have a different personal gauge that they will get for that yarn. You really need to follow the pattern gauge to get the right fit for THAT pattern. If you picked up brand A yarn, but the pattern called out brand B (same weight as the yarn you bought), it wouldn't make any sense at all to follow the yarn label for the 'wrong yarn', right? Yarn weight is a range, not an absolute (the same suggested gauge for the same weight yarn may vary from brand to brand, or even same brand for different 'flavors'), so that plus every individual tension differences, you should always check your gauge to the pattern you are making.
  12. Absolutely adorable! Link to pattern ... this would make a sweet stocking stuffer ...
  13. What a cutie!
  14. I'm going to 'speak' Windows computer here, as I don't know how to do this on a tablet or phone. For the photo, you should be able to right click the photo, which will come up with a menu, choose 'save image as' then name it and tell it where to save it . If you want to save an image of the text of a post (or text plus the image--whatever you can see on the page), open an application that you can paste an image to - like Paint, Word, any drawing or image editing software you have *, come back here and click the 'PrtSc' (print screen) key (this functions like 'copy' if you are copying and pasting), then go to the other application and paste it in, an save it. * I have Windows 10 and Office, so I could use Paint or any of the Office programs including Microsoft Office Picture Manager which is user-friendly for simple editing like brightness, contrast, cropping, rotating. (The Win10 app that apparently comes with the system called "Photos" is pretty useless, in any event you can't copy/paste into it). If you don't have Office, you can download a free Office-like suite like Open Office or Office Libre, or there are free Paint-like programs out there. edited to add - Shortcut keys if you need them: ctrl + c for copy, ctrl + v to paste.
  15. Take the piece with you and compare the piece and thread ball in the store with artificial light, and take it close to the window and hopefully be able to compare it in sunlight (the store person might let you take it outside to look, I've done this; worst case buy a couple of balls, and turn around and return the unmatching ones minutes later after checking the match). After thinking about it a bit more, it might not matter if the fringe is very slightly off. Since the texture of the fringe is different, it might not matter as much.
  16. Good idea to consult with a conservator. Whatever you do if you proceed yourself, don't use chlorine bleach, and don't use hot water (may set the stains). Oxyclean type detergents are safe. I've heard a recommendation of leaving items in the sun for an afternoon, but I'd hesitate to do that for something that may have already hung in the sun for years, decades ago. The hardest part would be getting a match to the thread, especially if the fabric is age discolored. A thought - if you remove and replace the tassels yourself is to pick a contrasting color and re-do the tassels (maybe something like ecru, not to jarring and would have an antique feel and less chance of dyes running). This would be easy to do yourself. Here is a tutorial, there are many others out there; knowing how to make them would help you understand how to pick the originals out, if that wasn't apparent. I think, since they are so tangled, that I'd cut them maybe 1" from the fabric and pick out the short ends.
  17. What a clever idea! You are quite an artist
  18. Oh, crikey, I hadn't thought of that (actually unplying). Options that occur to me (besides embracing the frizzy look): 1) Untangle it somewhat, and trim the ends when you are done, so you can trim at an even length. This might be tricky to do evenly. 2) Remove the tassels altogether. Find matching thread and re-make them. (You'd be surprised how many shades of white there are...). 3) Remove the tassels and leave them off. There will be a crocheted horizontal 'string' (like on the grid rows above) between the crocheted square shapes, that the tassels were knotted over, in case you were wondering what it would look like.
  19. I'd stitch it up at the end; maybe they're leaving the hole for now to help with stuffing her body. Some patterns with lots of pieces, have notes about finishing up all the little bits at the very end of the pattern--maybe look there, but even if not I'd sew it up. I might leave it if it were 1 or maybe 2 stitches, but 4 is a bit of a gap.
  20. Woo hoo! You're welcome! Happy to help--pretty fall colors, your mom is going to love this!
  21. I neglected to say, in your second in-process photo it doesn't look like you turned. I'm sorry if I confused you by comparing it to a granny square -- your pattern is very closely related, but not worked in the round. It's half a square, turn, half a square, turn. If it helps you to picture it, the 'corner space', although it resembles a granny square corner, would be called a 'spine' in most shawl patterns. It's the middle of the shawl, where increase are made. In my above photo, the bottom is the top straight edge that is under the model's chin in the pattern pic.
  22. Here is what it looks like partly thru row 4, just having completed the corner space. I've roughly outlined each 3DC group on 1 side of the corner space, and the single dc at the turning edge, color coded by rows, if that helps. The piece is turned at the bottom corners.
  23. No, you don't turn at the corner space. You are making a triangle, imagine a 2-D Egyptian pyramid--the corner space is pointing toward the sky, the corners at the ground are where you will be alternately turning each row.
  24. Ah, you can see her legs are about 4 stitches apart, and 24 +4+4+32, so that makes sense. The gap probably makes her easier to dress, and stand up perhaps. She is adorable!
  25. Welcome! And "eek". Most crocheted curtains are in thread (like this stuff), is that what yours are?. You never want to put thread items in the washing machine or dryer, or anything with tassels or fringe even if made of yarn, really. Depending on how old they are, you're lucky the curtain is still intact--aged thread is very fragile, and I would think especially curtains, being exposed to the sun more a doily for example. Hand wash and air dry only. Fabric softener isn't going to help untie the tangles (I don't think it would hurt, but I wouldn't get it wet again at this point, since unless you're in the Southern Hemisphere or somewhere warm and dry in November it might take a few days to air dry again . You're going to have to pick out the tangles by hand. Something like a hat pin, or long needle might help to carefully pick knots out. Take a deep breath, think of each little victory as each strand is freed up. Deeep breaths....