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Granny Square

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Everything posted by Granny Square

  1. Granny Square

    Comparable yarn

    Here is a pattern that alternated SC with slip stitches to reduce the size "so it wouldn't be 10 feet long'--it ended up being 57"x72"
  2. Granny Square

    Comparable yarn

    Agree with Avon Lady. Since this is going to be a crazy cacophony of colors, you should be able to get a way with 'not quite matching' shades a lot better than most other projects. It's harder to see a mismatch if there are other colors between the old and new skeins. Consider switching between old and new skeins a few times until the old was used up, as well. This is a technique I've seen suggested for transitioning dye lots in knitting when you are knitting with all the same color (I knit too, but I've never tried it). This just occurred to me...temperature blankets are usually short stitches (like SC, or knit stockinette), as you need 365 rows. C2C blankets patterns I've seen are typically done in tall DC stitches. How big is your blanket now, along 1 side, with only 2 months done? how big will it be if you multiply that measurement by 6 (for a full year)? I did some math with my gauge and measuring/extrapolating a few rows of straight DC in RHSS, which isn't your gauge or exactly the right stitch pattern or yarn brand (but I'm assuming you're using the same weight) -- I came up with 17 feet. Yikes. You might want to re-think this, no wonder you're out of yarn already.
  3. Granny Square

    C2C tails

    Glad you found another project for your yarn, looking good! Nice straight sides. Are the ends at the bottom look long enough for tassels? Maybe add more strands for tassels top and bottom (assuming you are making a rectangle and the bottom of your pic is one of the narrow sides) and weave in the side ends? Just a thought. I'm lazy tassels are easier than weaving Would add a bit more of the original Navajo pattern's look, and would finish it off nicely.
  4. Granny Square

    Hi! I need help finding a pattern for this hat!

    Good find. I think the brim is just SC ribbing*, which would be worked across the depth of the brim (looks like 1.5"-2"), then you'd turn and work into the side of the ribbing with the number of SC (spread evenly across) that you'd need to form the base of the bean stitches. If you look close, you can see the row of plain sc between the ribbing and the hat pattern. *Chain the depth of the ribbing and work SC BLO (in the Back Loop Only) until it fits around your head comfortably, then seam the short ends into a band.
  5. Granny Square

    Blocking blankets

    You are not a failure, cut that out. You are human, not an industrial crochet robot, and crochet is a hobby that should bring joy. I've seen your projects on Ravelry, and they are lovely. I've crocheted for decades and still encounter techniques and patterns that defeat me. Sometimes I put it down for a while and try again, but if it's still no fun and/or I still stink at the technique...nope. (looking at you, bullion stitch and hairpin lace, and lots of other patterns that went wonky) I just pick up my hooks, unravel the yarn and find something else. Hang in there.
  6. Is this a free pattern on the internet, so we can see the pattern and the hat? There's a lot of variations of Celtic weave patterns. One thing that strikes me as odd is your saying 'do I shove the stitches left or right'. Neither. Where stitches overlap, you might 'shove' the first set to the front if the second set are in the back, or vice versa, but not left or right. You are just reaching the hook across the front or the back of the first set of stitches. to make stitches into the skipped ones. It can be a little more disorienting/gymnastic reaching in back than in front maybe, because you reach behind the earlier stitches but still have to insert the hook into the skipped stitches from front to back--reach from behind, turn the hook a bit to insert the hook from front to back, scoop up a loop from the yarn held in the back and finish the stitch. Don't feel bad. I've been crocheting for decades and had to put what sounds like a similar pattern on 'time out' not that long ago because I was having trouble, but couldn't figure it out. When I picked it back up a year later, IIRC I realized I was misreading 1 word on 1 row . I totally get these patterns are a bit mindbending. Is it this pattern by chance? Not the same one I made (which wasn't on the internet), but very similar.
  7. Granny Square

    Blocking blankets

    You don't. Blocking is only good until the next wash and dry. This is what I meant in the other thread a while back, where I said wet blocking is temporary. How to keep it looking nice is not drying it all the way, or at all -- if the spin cycle slings enough water out so it's not dripping. You should be able to wet/dampen it again and get it back to the same size; I'm assuming it's acrylic, or at least 'not wool'. You may be able to do this with 'lay flat to dry, shove it around with your fingers where necessary' rather than pinning (worth a try).
  8. Granny Square

    Foundation chain too tight?

    Duh, I overlooked the opening. I'm not seeing the following rows increasing in the photo on the hanger, so that should subdue the ruffle by the time you get to the body.
  9. Granny Square

    Help needed with pattern

    So, row 1 is an odd numbered row, and you end at row 60, which is an even numbered row, so 'right side' is facing. Do you add the border after row 60? Normally you'd add the border with the 'right side' facing.
  10. Granny Square

    Foundation chain too tight?

    Is this for you? Or do you have the intended recipient handy? Will it go over (whoever's) head? Or, if you have a tailor's tape, measure the circumference--head sizes by age here> http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/size-chart.html Do you have the right number of stitches around - it looks a bit ruffled, but it might just be the way it's sitting. If you fold it in half, do the shoulders appear to be at the same angle as the dress on the hanger? Starting with a foundation sc as the first row might help (counts as chain and first row), or chaining with a bigger hook.
  11. Granny Square

    Help needed with pattern

    When a pattern does this, I put a safety pin so it shows on the right side, so I know which side is which when the pattern mentions it later. Does your pattern have raised stitches? Example-it seems to me I've seen a pattern with an elephant 'made' with a puff or popcorn stitch outline, where you'd want to make the raised stitches on the 'right' side.
  12. Granny Square

    Changing Gauge in patterns questions

    I agree with the video 100%. I was nodding along with every tip, thinking 'been there, encountered all that and learned to fix it the hard way'. I don't think I've ever hit gauge exactly...well rarely maybe. BUT I know how to deal with variations, like she suggests, and to understand which situations when 'close is good enough' and when it isn't. It always involves math, unfortunately. Example, a pullover sweater; I don't have a model's figure so I don't like them form fitting, and I know what measurement range is comfortable for me. If I don't hit gauge, but like the fabric I make with my sort-of-close gauge, I calculate the width of 1 stitch of my gauge, and multiply it by the number of stitches at the bust for the size above or below what should have been 'my' size depending on whether my swatch was too loose or tight. If a medium 'should' have fit me, but my gauge was tight, I'll multiply my too-small gauge x the number of stitches for the pattern's large size and see if that will work for me, if so I'll follow the directions for the large and get a close-enough-medium. Most (pullover) patterns seem to have 4" between finished sizes, so there's quite a bit of leeway for fit. I usually don't worry about vertical gauge, not all but most patterns you can just add or subtract rows. In a pattern like the last hat we last chatted about about, which had a 20 stitch pattern repeat...and you can't hit gauge,...you might have to do more calculations and swatches to see what will work, and also take the 'stretch factor' into account. The nearest 'size' would be plus or minus 20 stitches, which is a bigger percentage of a hat than a pullover sweater. And modifying an even smaller glove could be even trickier. Also, knit hats...do the math, regardless. I found (the hard way, on my first knit hat) that a LOT of knit hats were designed really small (expected like 30% stretch, and I prefer little or no stretch), so do the match for stitches x width of 1 stitch to see if the number of stitches around for the hat makes sense for the fit you need.
  13. Granny Square

    Baby blanket

    Right, what she said ^. Use the unused loop of whatever sort of stitch was in 'row 0'. You will be skipping over (not using) the slsts in row 1, those are going to be part of the ridge.
  14. Granny Square

    Pig (If you give....)

    So cute!! Love the skirt, it's perfect
  15. Granny Square

    Baby blanket

    Here's my interpretation and it would make a ridge or thicker row (reminds me of a Thermal Stitch, except worked in a front loop not back). Let's say the row before the 2 you wrote above is row 0. When you worked row 1 in the front loop of the row 0, you left the back loop of row 0 unused. When you turn it over, to start row 2, the unused back loop of row 0 is now in front--but 2 rows down. There is no unused loop in row 1, so I believe it is telling you to work into the unused loop from row 0. This would leave a sort of folded over ridge on the side facing away from you as you work row 2.
  16. Granny Square


    Is this the one? (Not a place to buy the pattern, just a photo, and if you belong to Ravelry you can see other people's projects) If you don't mind something close but not exactly it, I have seen other pineapple patterns that were sort of similar, runners and chair backs, that, if you have intermediate experience, might be able to scale up to a blanket. Edit, found one that might work for the concept, skinnier pineapples https://www.girliescrochet.com/marie-beach-top.html A chair set that might work; maybe start at the middle and work half one way, and half the other? Or just have 1 end straight and the other pineapple-y? https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pineapple-chair-set-7871
  17. Granny Square

    Crochet Girl with a Basket of Flowers

  18. Granny Square

    CrazyHands Gradient colur hat questions

    Just throwing this out there...as I said in your other thread I have trouble physically doing knit cables, so avoid them. However, this mock-cable stitch is pretty easy; not as dimensional as your hat pattern, but looks like a cable (I've not made this hat, but have used the stitch on a dishcloth) https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mock-cable-hat-6
  19. Granny Square

    Granny Square Blanket help

    If it were my project, I'd rip back to the error and re-do. Any way I can think of to remove it at this point is going to look worse than the original mistake, IMO. Sorry, I know you didn't want to hear that. Part of being a crocheter is being a fearless stitch ripper; If I could reconstitute all the stitches I've ripped back over the decades, I could make a cozy for my house and probably yours, too. A famous knitter once said to stop and admire your work frequently. Good advice, as a good way to spot errors quickly therefore less pain to rip back to fix them.
  20. Granny Square

    Am I putting my sweater together the right way?

    Any crochet-together method is going to leave a ridge on the back side; slst will leave a smaller ridge than sc. BUT, shoulder seams are what hold the whole sweater "up" if you think about it--it all hangs from the shoulder. I've used slst seams, the ridge never bothered me comfort-wise (and I make worsted weight tops for warmth, so big ridges), and I suspect it's sturdier than hand-sewing. A second choice would be mattress stitch, but depending on your stitch pattern, could leave more or less of a ridge depending on where you need to place the seam, in order to get the nicest look on the public side, The upside is that it's usually close to invisible on the right side, which is nice when you are working across colored stripes--you don't want to see the seam yarn.
  21. Granny Square

    Attaching parts

    I'm not sure what you mean by needle getting 'stuck'. There are different sorts of needles you could use, sharp ones and tapestry (blunt) ones; I'd use my sharp one, as you may sometimes need to sew thru the plies of the yarn, rather than between the crochet stitches which the blunt needle is better for, for the right shaping/invisible seam. This is something better visually demonstrated, I think, than explained with words; try googling 'how to sew together crochet toys'. A whole bunch of helpful videos, and blog tutorials showed up with those search terms. It's mostly about hiding the stitching under the edge of the part you are attaching, so no sewing-on stitching, or top/bottom edges of the stitches of the attached thing, shows on the outside.
  22. Granny Square

    CrazyHands Gradient colur hat questions

    it seems like a very clear, well written pattern including detailed explanations for all stitches used in the pattern. For the first cable twist in round 3, let's count stitches. The pattern repeat is 20. C3B has 6 stitches. (As does C3F) Round 3: *k9, C3B, k3, p2, repeat from* to the end of the round. 9 + 6 + 3 +2 = 20.
  23. Granny Square

    Need Help Changing Color

    Since this has a 'public' and 'wrong' side, just weave it in the same row - in the video example, weave the white tail in the back of the white row, so it doesn't show on the front. Weave thru the plies of the yarn, in different directions, and back onto itself, so that it can't come out. Some people split the plies and weave them separately for extra security.
  24. Granny Square

    Hi I'm Cathy and I need help

    Hi Kathy and welcome! I'm a little confused by your questions. The photo is of a machine manufactured trim, you want to make a scarf but 'don't know how to work it'. Are you asking for a crochet pattern that looks similar to the photo? You also said 'you have some' of a presumably similar yarn to the manufactured piece. I'm guessing since you are asking what sort of yarn it is, that you don't have the label any more. Unfortunately a LOT of yarn colors and styles come and go every few years, it's going to be hard to even guess what you might have. One thing you might do is take some of the yarn and wrap it (so the strands are next to each other, but don't wind tightly enough to stretch it) around a ruler, between the 1" and 2" mark. Count the number of strands. This will tell you the wraps per inch, which will tell you the weight class of the yarn. Here's a guide. Assuming you have lost the label, you won't know the yardage; but you might be able to work stripes or similar using your yarn along with another new yarn of the same weight--probably in a contrast color, as you will never match the exact color/dye lot of your old yarn, even if you knew what it was.
  25. Granny Square

    Navajo Blanket

    Sorry for the 'shorthand', I meant, make the purposely skewed swatch I mentioned and try to block it straight.