Granny Square

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Everything posted by Granny Square

  1. Welcome to the 'ville! Here are her patterns as listed on Ravelry, I don't see that one but it may be in one of the books at the bottom. Since she posted this in 'show and tell', not 'original patterns', she may not have gotten it written up. Since she posted it, she's opened a shop so may have gotten sidetracked. You could try messaging her. https://www.ravelry.com/designers/amy-shelton
  2. Caron cakes have been around for a couple of years, and I never noticed that they 'went away' and came back; I think I noticed there was also a new style this year (bulky? not sure). I think Michaels has more yarn sales in the Autumn in general because they figure more people get crafty before the holidays, and in my store they seemed to put the Caron cakes stuff on the isle ends to feature them in the past couple of months. They'll probably put them back in the isles and feature something else soon. Some yarns are trendy, are around for a while and get replaced by the next new trend; some are forever (like Red Heart super saver).
  3. View of what the pattern looks like Nice! Simple but striking pattern. I don't have the magazine, but the shaping (outline) seems pretty simple, and each front piece on either side of the neck should be mirror images of each other. The only difference (the mirror part) is that on one side, you'd start the first row of neck shaping from the armhole toward the neck and then work back and forth up to the shoulder, but on the other side you'd start the first row at the neck and work toward the armhole - this keeps the stitches all facing the same way. I hate to say this, but i stopped subscribing to crochet mags some time ago because the errata each month was almost longer than the magazines. If I were making this vest, and the first half of the neck shaping came out OK, I'd just work the other one the same but where it says 'neck edge' treat it as 'armhole edge' and vice versa.
  4. Ha ha, what a cute face!
  5. What a sweet set!
  6. He is adorable!
  7. The pattern is correct, at least on this instruction. Notice the " ** ". For the back, the ** starts with the ribbing, and ends in the middle of the 'shape armholes' section. So you work the same as the back; they are identical until you come to the spot on the front where you need to make the neckline. Edited to add - just to be clear, the 'middle of the armholes' has fewer stitches than what you start with at the hem.
  8. I don't know if it has a name, but since you have the scarf and could poke at it a bit you could probably reconstruct the pattern closer than my attempt. Some shell patterns are interlocked, some are stacked on top of each other and yours is the second type. My guess looking at the photo is that the shell is 3 DC, chain (2?), 3 DC. Between the shells are 2 DC, made into 2 DC in the row below; the shell is made into the chain gap in the middle of the shell below. There don't appear to be chains between the shells and the 2 DCs between them.
  9. Funny! But hey, you never know...https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/how-to-knit-a-granny-square-2
  10. Oh no, hope it isn't that nasty flu. Sending you virtual chicken soup...can't find the soup, how about some tea instead
  11. Sorry about your migraine Still have your google-fu intact, tho! The thing that I find odd is that it the word order and punctuation; it sort of looks like a cut and paste error; it's saying the right thing, just oddly. Normally you'd skip the first 3 chains for plain DC, and stitch into the 4th; I think initial chains are a DC, chain 1, and then the DC in the 5th (not 4th) chain makes that whole thing a V stitch. At the end of the next row, it says to DC in last DC, which I'd take to be the 3rd chain of that initial chainy V stitch.
  12. I just deleted a post I was about to send, because Redrosesdz said everything I did. The only wrong/odd thing was "(counts as dc. Skip 2 ch) ". IMO it should have been written "(counts as dc.) Skip 2 ch" . The "counts as DC" is informational about the part before it, the "skip 2 ch" is the next instruction you need to do, so the end parenthesis was in the wrong spot.
  13. Motifs maybe? There's a sort of blanket style that's worked in lengthwise strips, I'd call those strips panels. I think everyone would know what you meant if you said squares tho, maybe a geometry teacher would make a fuss...funny, I just googled '63 afghan' and google suggested a search for 63 square afghan.
  14. I assume the last stitch of row 4 was a sc. NORMALLY, if you are making a DC at the start of a row, you chain 3 at the end of the prior row, turn, skip the first stitch, and make a DC into the next stitch. The chain 3 takes the place of a DC, and you skip the first stitch to keep the stitch count the same. In your case, yes you are using the front loop of the SC, but the fact that you are making a stitch into that first sc is atypical. Either the chain isn't counting as a stitch, or this is meant to be an increase.
  15. There was a CAL (crochet-along) on this a while back - holy cow, 10 years - here is a link. There might be some helpful comments/clarification on there (I wasn't a participant). It looks really simple, just a plus sign with a slit more or less; It sounds like you work half the plus sign more or less, then come to the neck opening and work down 1 sleeve/side of the body, and come back and pick up at the neck and work the other side. I do see mention of turning chains, chain 2 would be right for HDC; the designer may not have felt it necessary to mention it every time except when it happened when you were shaping or re-attaching the yarn (this is not uncommon, especially for vintage patterns--I realize this isn't vintage, but I can see leaving it out if it's working even, it would be understood). So, as I said at the point you mentioned, if you look at the pic of the pink sweater with black trim looking like a +, the top of the + is where you started at the bottom hem. You've done the top half of the + , made slip stitches to form the neckline, and have worked on one side beyond the neckline, and now you need to go back and work the other side. The outside edge would be at the wrist end of the sleeve; it matters which side you pick it up again, because crochet looks different front and back you need to pick it up where the prior row has the back side facing you; if you picked it up at the neck edge, the stitches would look 'funny' and not match the look of the other side.
  16. You might try to get hold of the Crochetville facebook site, or log on to the 'Ville blog site, or maybe try to contact Amy's physical store?
  17. Here is a site that suggests substitutes, since this yarn apparently isn't manufactured any more https://yarnsub.com/yarns/schachenmayr_original/catania_grande
  18. Did you scroll down and look at her swatch? I'm counting one ripple as one hill or one valley, in her case valley - it's all the same, her photo is showing 2 valleys (VV) but if you turn it upside down it would be 2 hills (^^). I assume you meant the 3 that goes with the 14 when she tells you right at the beginning that the chain "should be in multiples of 14, plus an extra 3 added on for turning." So I assume your question is, where does the 3 come from? Notice that she puts the first DC into the 4th chain from the hook, leaving 3 chains unused--that's what she's referring to. edit - for the 13, look at one of the photos where she draws out the stitches next to the photo - count each stitch, each bottomless box in the valleys are decreases and count as 1, each | on the hillsides count as 1, each 2-into-1 'v' count as 2. Each set of hilltop, valley, and 2 hillsides = 14
  19. I'm not a designer, but I wonder if you tried to chart it with paper and pencil before setting hook to yarn? Nothing fancy, just a line for the dc and a little circle for the chain ||°°|| . You should see a pattern forming after a few rows and you'd only repeat rows rows x thru y after the first few rows. If you chart it out...since you are stacking the flowers over each other, and the flowers are (I think) 2 skipped stitches...you could chart it from the middle out, so 1 edge of your chart would run thru the middle of the middle flower (so the center edge would be 1 chain every flower row). This should make it easier to plot it out and keep it symmetrical. Also, you may have edges on flower rows where you don't have room to make a flower, so you'd have to have a longer span of solid stitches on those rows, which would be OK (would look better than trying to make half a flower).
  20. Forgot to add, ripples are really easy, but they require you to pay attention more than some patterns. It is really easy to get off-count and end up with Dr. Seuss looking (tilting) ripples. It's a good idea to put a stitch marker in the center stitch of each 'hill', (and maybe each valley) this will make it easier to keep count. This pattern has 4 stitches on each hillside, a decrease of 2 stitches over 4 in each valley, and an increase of 2 stitches over 2 in each hilltop. She gives a good recap of this in the photo blow where she where she says it's important to recognize where the increases and decreases are, in that photo she's written a little diagram with notes below to show where they are. Also - are you in the US, or in an area that uses UK terms? This pattern is in UK terms, so her triple is a US double.
  21. Link http://attic24.typepad.com/weblog/neat-ripple-pattern.html Pattern states multiple of 14, plus 3 extra for turning. She says "I would strongly advise before you begin any ripply project to make a small ripple sample so that you're confident of the pattern. Make a chain of 31 (2x14 +3) as I'm doing here.... " So, she is suggesting that you practice by making a swatch starting with 31, which is 2 repeats of 14, plus 3. Making a swatch is a good idea, because it will give you an idea of how many repeats you will need for the blanket size that you want. Since the chain will ending up being ripply, not straight, you can't just chain (example) 48" and end up with a 48" wide blanket--it would be quite a bit less. Scrolling about halfway down the page she has a photo with a crochet hook lined up with it; I just measured the length of a handy hook of mine and it is 5.5"; in her photo, her swatch, with is 2 ripples wide, the hook looks like it is about 1" shorter than her swatch. So, each ripple is about 3.25" inches wide in my crude guessing. Your gauge on the swatch is sure to be different, but let's just go with these numbers. Let's say you want an afghan to be about 48" wide, which is about the width of a 'back of the couch' blanket. The 14 stitch multiple is 1 ripple. Coincidently 48" divided by 3.25 is 14.8 ripples, which I'd round up to 15. So, you would want 15 ripples, times 14 stitches per ripple, is 210 stitches, plus 3 for the turning chain, so a chain of 213. All of these numbers are my crude example, not knowing your gauge or how big of a blanket you want, but just to give you an idea of how to figure out how long of a chain you will need -- you'll have to do the swatch first to have enough info to figure this out if you are trying to hit a specific measurement for the width.
  22. Hello again! The only thing I can think of is that there might be some puckering; maybe 1/4" isn't enough to matter. If you have some sewing pins, maybe pin a small square between a circle of bigger ones and see if it lays flat. How are you connecting them? I'm guessing not "as you go" since it sort of sounds like you have a bunch of separate squares. Perhaps if you chose a joining method that isn't a plain seam, that has some chains going on between the squares, it might let the squares 'float' and sort of even the sizing out. edit - some joining methods here http://www.mooglyblog.com/join-crochet-squares/
  23. I strongly suggest that you get permission from the pattern writer before you do this. If I wrote a pattern and posted it on my blog at no charge, I still retain the copyright to that pattern, That means that I have the rights to how the pattern is reproduced and distributed, which (I assume) would have to include video. Whether a pattern is offered for free or not makes no difference, nor does it make a difference if the author doesn't put some sort of disclaimer on her pattern that it is under copyright - putting it out there makes it so. Most patterns published (in any form) after the early 1920s are probably still under copyright.
  24. Awesome pattern...the embossed section would be cool squared off for a blanket motif too...
  25. Here's a pattern that might work for the body, and the cat's ears could have a row or 2 added for the arms https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/egg-shaped-cat You could borrow the feet from this pattern - they aren't as dimensional like the original, but they'd be easier https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bird-of-a-color Or, here's a bird with similar dimensional feet https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/p-chan-custom---the-bird-in-celestial-warriors-sun-red For the ears...rather than trying to find a pattern, I'll give you a "recipe'. It's made sort of like a really looong hat. Start at the tip of the ear, the same as the birds's body borrowed from the cat pattern. Stop increasing when the circle that you've made is as wide as you want the ear to be, and then work around without increasing until you get to the length you need. Make notes of where you stopped at the beginning, and count the rounds so you can create an identical ear. There are lots of tutorials on how to make the pom-pom. The hardest/annoyingest part of this is unplying the yarn; cut the length of yarn it calls for, then pull the plies apart and wrap around the form. Look for an instruction that calls for making a cardboard form, no need to buy one. Alternative would be to make one with intact yarn and try to brush or comb it, but I'd be afraid I'd pull the threads out and have it fall apart.