Jump to content

Granny Square

Villager
  • Content Count

    11,499
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    90

Everything posted by Granny Square

  1. Welcome to the 'ville! You may not need to do anything. For something like a shawl or a poncho, the size is determined by your 'wingspan' (wrist to wrist) measurement, which is typically close to your height. A 5' 5" size 16 person, and a 5' 5" size 24/26 person should have about the same wingspan. One's arms don't get longer if one gets, um, rounder, nor does ones head get bigger, so a poncho that fits a size 16 person of your (or the recipient's) height should fit you. Is the pattern free on the 'net, or is there a photo of it you could link to? Does it have a diagram/schematic that gives the dimensions of different sizes? If so lay out a shirt (that fits you without stretching) on your bed, arms outstretched, and measure it wrist to wrist, and compare it to the pattern schematic. Without seeing a photo of the item, a simple, generic answer would be to use a bigger hook and a thicker yarn, swatch and calculate what that would get you.
  2. Exactly what she said. Every word or abbreviation is in conventional crochet pattern terms except MR. "Magic ring" or "adjustable ring" are ways to start a center-out circle. In your case, since you are starting with only 6 SC stitches, an alternate and easier way to start this would be to chain 2, and make 6 sc into the 2nd chain from the hook - yes, they will all fit. A well written pattern should have a special stitches section, usually right before the pattern starts or sometimes in books or magazines at the end of the pattern, and "MR" should have been defined. Throwing this out because there is a wealth of info here for a beginner - see menu at the right, US industry standards for yarn sizing, how to read a crochet pattern (abbreviations, symbols and such), and more. https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards
  3. Here is a not-video tutorial https://www.crochetspot.com/how-to-crochet-surface-crochet-or-surface-slip-stitch/ Basically, you are making a slip stitch, but thru the gaps of crochet (or knit) fabric. There are of course lots of videos out there too, here's one Your piece is SC, which is ideal for this. Think of your SC fabric = the fabric that you would do cross stitch in, where there are little gaps between the warp and weft threads, where you'd stick your needle into--gaps just like SC has. The fiddliest part is the very start, I think because it's odd to not start with a slip knot on your hook, and there's nothing to 'hold' it until the second stitch. With the supply yarn underneath your fabric, holding a naked hook, stick your hook into the hole you want the yarn to come out of, and grab the yarn from underneath - guide the yarn a little with your left hand. Pull up a loop. *Stick your hook in the next hole in the direction you want to go - diagonally, up, or to the left if you are right handed, pull up a loop, repeat, changing direction wherever. The first stitch for me is always loose, but just give a tug to the beginning end and you're good, the second and beyond stitches will be secure and you'll be speeding along after another stitch or 2.
  4. I don't know about that one, but I found one at Ravelry from Annie's Attic that is vaguely close to your description https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/popcorn-patchwork-blankie-for-girls - maybe try looking at Annie's Attic site directly to see if there are others like this one ? edit, or Mary Maxim - I found a similar one to the above with angels.
  5. Nice and cheery for Fall! Have you thought of surface slip stitch for the embroidery? Would go quickly, harder to mess up (since it's not really freehand) and a quick yank to rip if you don't like the look.
  6. Rows 26 and 27 will make a 'hill', these are called short rows - where you work partway around, turn, work a partial row or round, turn, etc. The designer explains this right before those rows: "Now we will crochet in rows to slightly increase the height of one side of the body. This side of increased height will be the backside of the body." This should have been made clear, but I am guessing that the slip stitch at the ends of rows 26 would be down into the next st of row 25, and the slst at the end of row 27 down into row 26. This would make a smooth-ish 'hill'. Good question on the turning chain, but I don't think so; if you want a smooth bump that blends in, a slst and then a turn without a turning chain would be a good way to do it. Typically you change color in the middle of a row by working the last stitch of the old color up to the last yarn over and pull thru - at which point you drop the old color behind the work, and yarn over and pull thru the new color to complete that stitch--this sounds strange but it makes a smoother appearing transition. Your last question - ".. SC, CH 3, *SC 1, HDC*into chain, SC into 3rd st from chain, SC, SL ST, repeat around" - I'm glad there is a pic of what it is supposed to look like at this point (reminds me of a sea anemone, sort of) -- this instruction makes the 'bumps' around the edge, similar to a picot. The problem is making 3 chains, turning and working 2 stitches into the chain seems like too much of a stretch--because doing that literally, you are working backward to the SC I highlighted in red, not forward 3 stitches beyond the last SC made. The object is to make 'bumps' around the top of the collar. The last round was 52 stitches, which divides evenly by 4. I suspect that there was a typo in there, and also an asterisk used in a non-standard way, I'd re-write this as: *SC, CH 3, (SC 1, HDC) into chain, SC in the next 3 stitches, repeat around". The 1 after the SC in the parentheses might also have been meant to be 'CH 1', because why not say 'sc 1, hdc 1' to be consistent, or leave the ones out altogether otherwise. Putting a chain in there would make the 'bump' a little bigger, which couldn't hurt.
  7. Thanks for the link Tampa Doll, lots of nice patterns there and even the ones not on sale were reasonably priced, when you add up the cost of the likely # of skeins you'd have to buy at the craft store.
  8. I'm seeing what looks like a few crochet or knit dog coats like you describe, on Pinterest- it may or may not mean there are patterns out there for them. Since I'm not a member I can't 'drill down' for details. I did look at Ravely's patterns and didn't find any, they were all 2 front legs, back and sometimes chest, only.
  9. Welcome to the 'ville! Open a reply box so you can see what I'm talking about - below the white area where you type, there is a grey area with a paperclip, you can drag files with pdf, jpg, jpeg, fig or png file extensions in that area to attach a photo. Or if it's on some website, you can copy/paste the url in a message. I'm not a dog coat expert, but I've only ever seen a dog coat pattern with 2 front leg openings, and a belt or chest covering. I'll take a look...
  10. Feel better soon! What a well dressed pup!
  11. Yikes BGS, I was thinking of row (not stitch) counter, noooo!
  12. Agree with what everyone said above. There are so many variables. Example, I just picked a 1 color "blanket" from Tampa Doll's link above, 'Fa La La Farmhouse', it was on sale from $45 to $35. It is 44"x64", which is in the average neighborhood of most Afghan sizes. This is (about) 1/4 the size of a queen blanket, which is 96" x 108" -so you'd need to buy 4 kits. If you laid out four 44"x64" blankets, 2 adjacent to each other and the other 2 adjacent but directly below the other 2, the outline would measure 88" x 128". Pointing this out because this has come up before, it 'seems' like you should only need 2 kits if you don't do the math. (44"x64" = 2816 sq. in., 96" x 108" = 10,368 sq. in.--OK, so that's 3.68 kits.)
  13. We've been crocheting about the same length of time...I'm guessing your pattern does not have a 'special stitches' section, or define terms in in the pattern text the first time it happens in the pattern ("do x, y - beginning (whatever) stitch made). In my experience a beginning 'anything' refers to a compound stitch, and the 'beginning' version involves the chain counting as a stitch, with about half of the stitches in the compound stitch. I'm not recalling an 'end x stitch' defined in a pattern, but I'd guess similar to the 'beg' version, minus the chain. What's throwing me is--what's the difference between a decrease and a 2-together? The only thing that I can think of is to make 1 FPDC instead of 2 at each end to keep the pattern 'going', but I'm not sure that is right. What pattern is it, is it free on the net? Does looking at the pattern photo offer clues?
  14. I (personally) haven't found a stich counter worthwhile, as I start to use it and then forget , but that's me. Tip 1: use stitch markers (I like to use bobby pins, a card of bobby pins is cheaper than the 'real' stitch markers at the craft store and they stay put; probably cheaper than stitch counters, too). Put a stitch marker in every 20 or 50 or whatever-makes-sense number of stitches. Tip 2: do the above, and chain a couple more. Turn and work back, you can pick them out later (will not unravel from the knot end).
  15. Picking out extra chains is sort of a pain because of the 'won't unravel' feature, but less of a pain than coming up short and having to start over.
  16. Granny Square

    HDC^?

    Well, an increase is usually 2 stitches into 1 stitch, so I'd assume 2 'otherwise normal' HDC shoved into 1 stitch.
  17. Granny Square

    HDC^?

    It must be an increase, notice you go from 58 to 62 stitches, which is 4, and there are 4 HDC^.
  18. Granny Square

    HDC^?

    I have never seen that symbol in crochet, the only thing that comes to mind is an extended hdc, or a typo. But really, extended stitches already have an abbreviation, like ESC, EDC, and so on, to the carat is not consistent to the way those stitches are called out. Does the pattern have a 'special stitches' section, could be at the end of the pattern or the beginning. Sometimes designers will give a name to a group of stitches and name it whatever they want, like after their dog - which is legit-they just need to define what a 'Fido' stitch is.
  19. Sounds right to me. Hint, if you want a little insurance, chain 209 and a few extra just in case, I usually do this for chaining anything over 100 anyway in case I miscount. You can pick out the extra chains later, they won't unravel from the knot end.
  20. You can 'go into' a chain 3 ways: 1) into the back bump which pulls it tight, 2) with the chain facing you, into the top loop as I described. 3) what I didn't mention, with the chain facing you, under the top 2 loops (which is the top loop + the back bump), leaving 1 loop at the bottom free - I don't think this is very common. I've only used it on a project once, it didn't pull tight; I forgot the details but I thought it worked better on a particular edging for some reason. Edit, we are talking chain here, not a stitch - normally you would stick the hook under the top 2 loops of a stitch, altho there are variations like BLO or FLO (back or front loop only) for usually decorative reasons.
  21. Granny Square

    5 strands

    Depends on the yardage you need. I've only done 1 item with multiple strands and I used the same amt. of skeins as strands (was a blanket), so I haven't tried what I am about to suggest - but I would think if your skeins allow you to pull yarn from the center, you could get away with 3 skeins (2 from both ends, 1 from center or outside). Personally I hand-roll skeins into balls because I don't care for center-pull--the drawback I see from my above suggestion is when the center-pull skeins collapse, it will be a tangled mess (bad enough with 1 skein). What does the pattern call for yarn-wise? If it gives a total yardage - making up a round number, say 1000 yards, if your skein is a bit over 200 yards, 5 skeins is the way to go. If your skeins are 400 yards, I'd try to wind 2 skeins into 2 equal balls, and leave the 3rd skein as is, but would probably be tough to do without a scale. Again, made up numbers just used as an example to try splitting skeins, but you are going to need 5 clumps of yarn in some form to work with. You may end up splicing skeins if you try to split 1 in 2 and it comes out unevenly - do NOT tie knots. If you are using 100% wool, split splice is the way to go (real spit not required, tap water will do). Or Russian join, or braided join for synthetic or cotton - there are YouTubes on all of these.
  22. Welcome to the Ville, Nancy! Unfortunately, "not really"--I started to explain how to rip out the foundation row but it would probably easier for you to find a video, there are several, look for 'unravelling crochet from the foundation end'. It is not for the faint of heart, I would personally start over, but - not a lecture, but a word to the wise from someone who has made a lot of nice things over many decades but while ripping back and fixing plenty of errors in the process - often stop and 'admire' your work carefully, better to spot a mistake on row 15 than row 150. If the chain itself was too tight, this should have been obvious in the first few inches of the first blanket. I could see a person's tension varying day to day maybe, but just the chain? Something else is going on. The only thing I can think of that causes tight chains, is working into the back loop of the foundation chain. Back loop requires working the chain using a larger hook than the rest of the fabric, and it's VERY fiddly. I learned, and still use exclusively, to work into the foundation chain with the chain side facing me and using the top 1 loop of the chain--it works great for anything from toys to garments to doilies, and does not pull the fabric tight, and looks fine.
  23. One of these? https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/oma-mine-slipper probably not, no sole https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/oma-house-slippers
  24. http://www.crochetandknitting.com/mocslip.htm I think the whole thing may be double strands https://www.crochetandknitting.com/slpprs8.htm says 'for beginners', looks warm https://littlejohnsyarn.com/classic-crochet-loafers-free-pattern/ basic and straightforward looking
  25. So you only have the soles so far, and you need to form the sides and then the sort of half-oval top that covers the top of your foot? Do you think you could wing the part you haven't made yet, it If I find a similar pattern? In other words, the concept would be the same for the sides and top but the stitch counts wouldn't be? I'll take a look and see what I can find... edit, oops - what yarn weight? US#4 medium, like Red Heart Super Saver?
×
×
  • Create New...