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Granny Square

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Everything posted by Granny Square

  1. Wait, I just realized my brain went cross-eyed just now too, I missed your mention of the chain-2 space, which is at the end of row 4 so the first thing (well, second thing actually) thatyou encounter in row 5 - and row 5 does not address it. Row 4 ends in 'ch 2, dc in last sc, turn'. Row 5 begins by saying 'ch 1, sc in first dc, but it didn't say to skip the ch2 space before the first dc you encounter. Hmm. I looked at the Ravelry projects and read all the notes, 1 person said it was full of errors, another one said it was the first time they ever made anything from actually reading a pattern and thought it was a piece of cake, so no help there but you have to assume the pattern is not wrong--unless maybe it was amended with corrections sometime between your ball band and the version on the 'net. Lots of finished projects that looked nice, not wonky...maybe skipping that chain 2 makes part of the 'netting' look.
  2. The instructions for that row, copied and pasted from the pdf linked above, say Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *3 dc in next sc, skip next dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc, sc in next ch-5 space; repeat from * across, working last sc in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn. So, the directions appear to be correct. Maybe you saw 'sc' and your brain read 'skip'; this happens to me sometimes on doily patterns where 1 pattern line is a lengthy paragraph; my brain gets 'cross-eyed' and I'm 'certain' it said y but after y didn't work I have to stop and parse each step carefully until I 'see' it really said z. The only thing you skip in row 5 is the second dc after the *. Sometimes, since I work with paper patterns I can usually scribble on, I'd take a complex line and parse it into little visual bites, like: Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first dc, /*3 dc in next sc, / skip next dc, / sc in next dc, / 3 dc in next sc, / sc in next ch-5 space; /repeat from * across, working last sc in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn.
  3. Here is a TSS tutorial, it shows the front and back.
  4. Yay for finding the right link (for the first blanket), I just figured it had been retired and didn't look further. Now...turn the Norwegian grandma's sideways...it looks a LOT like Tunisian Simple Stitch, BUT the back side doesn't look right. It could be Tunisian-something-else tho, I'm not an expert.
  5. Ooooohhhhh, that makes sense Magiccrochetfan. I guess I've never seen it that close up before. OmaMarlene, this is a technique that I've only seen in patterns for so-called "Navajo" pattern blankets, and your brown and white blanket has that Native American sort of look. It is a way to keep the stitches lined up and cleaner looking for the colorwork patterns. If you work colorwork the 'usual' way in SC, the edges are more jaggedy looking. Apparently this was a kit, no longer available, from Herrschners'. Here is a link from Ravelry (the link on that page is 'dead', but it tells you what the pattern name was, apparently in a book. I found this by accident looking for a similar free pattern for you to take a look at, here is the one I was thinking of . It has raised stitches which yours doesn't, but it has the one-way stitching and the fringe like Magiccrochetfan's swatch.
  6. I just tried this, and ended up flipping it over until the back bump was facing me, and used the top loop - which is the same as working the bottom/front loop with the other side facing. I didn't do this on purpose, it just sort of flipped itself as I was trying to work into that loop. Really there is no right answer, except -- I suggest you play with this over, say, 10 stitches, before you make a chain of 200 or whatever for a whole blanket - see what looks good to you. Or, if you are looking for something different, maybe branch out a bit further -- it's not THAT different than plain SC (it's reversible, has a ridge every other row but otherwise looks like SC pretty much.. Maybe try alternating sc in the front loop 1 row, back loop the other on your swatch after the few rows of the front loop. Back loop only will make ribbing, not a flat fabric. Front loop only lies flat. Or, find a stitch dictionary - like new stitch a day, link is to the main page, go to 'stitchionary', crochet, and pick whatever you like--maybe 'textured and plain' would be a good place to start.
  7. This cat could be made double-thick to be more like the Scottie. Or this simpler one, shouldn't be too hard to make it a bit bigger (and double thick) if need be to 'match'.
  8. I could not find a free pattern for a blanket sized flag, but I found a little, goofy one -- luckily the elements are pretty simple. You could follow the way the rectangles are made and just add stitches to make them bigger. You'd just need a bigger star to sew on...maybe this one? The star begins in the center as a pentagon shape, so you could adjust the size of the star by adding or subtracting from the pentagon before making the 'arms' one by one. Note, on the star...normally with SC you'd increase by 6 each round, not 5, for a flat star or anything in the round. 5 might cause it to 'cup', but since this is a pillow, that might not matter...what you could do is start it as written, if it starts to cup throw in an increase here and there between the increases called for in the pattern, but continue 'stacking' the increases in the 5 places called for. The extra 'between' ones won't be obvious.
  9. Granny Square

    Baby whale

    He's WONDERFUL! 🐬
  10. I tried alternating sc BLO and slst BLO, and got an interesting ribbing but not not matching the above example. http://new.slipstitchcrochet.com/ This site has some slip-stitch-only stitch patterns that they show how to do with sketches, some by manipulating the hook in a different way (inverse front or back loop), but unfortunately they don't have photo examples of all the slip stitch patterns. It can't be all front or back loops, because the loops are all on 1 side. Maybe it's alternating front and back loops? I bet it's in one of those 19th century books by Beaton, Dilmont, or Branchardière...
  11. You are going to have to find an actual 'used book' somewhere and buy the actual hard copy. In the US, anything published before 1925 is no longer under copyright. Stuff published between then and 1978, which were under copyright at that time is under copyright protection for 95 years after the publish date. Stuff published between then and 1978, for which copyright had lapsed prior to 1978, remain under copyright protection until 2047. Published after 1978, it's 70 years after the author's death.
  12. SC BLO is ribbing when worked back and forth (turning), and looks the same on both sides. This is a blanket and not in the round, so...I don't think so. But I don't know what it IS, either, sorry--interesting stitch. I wonder if it's alternating rows of 'something' and slip stitch...slip stitch looks like sideways knitting, as this sort of does.
  13. I agree, I think it isn't wrong, just oddly written, but there's odd stuff further along as well. Rnd 25: Sl st in ch-1 sp, beg bobble in same sp, (ch 2, bobble in next sp) 5 times, ch 1, skip next dc, ch 1, sc, ch 1 and next dc, * bobble in next ch-1 sp, (ch 2, bobble in next sp) 5 times, ch 1, skip next dc, ch 1, sc, ch 1 and next dc; rep from * around, join with sl st to top of beg bobble. I would guess the red means, after the last bobble from the prior bit, "ch 2, skip next dc". But I wonder if the blue is missing the word 'skip' before 'dc'. When in doubt, I take a close look at the pattern photo of the finished doily, that can often settle questions like this--link to a couple of photos.
  14. It's funny that when you look at the results of a search on Amazon, then search on the same thing later , different stuff comes up, or different prices on the same stuff. You're right tho, a lot don't say how long the cords are.. Bamboo set with 48" cord Another 48" cord 100 cm cord a foot is about 30.5 cm, so this is slightly more than a yard. This comes in a pretty silk pouch 1.2 meter cord slightly less than 48" I can't vouch for any of these brands, but I did buy a set of off-brand (Stitchberry) bamboo double pointed needles from Amazon a few years ago, it came to about $0.27 per needle. Some of them were really teeny tiny (thin)--they've all held up well, some have gotten warped by the way I hold them but that doesn't matter for holding stitches , just makes them more ergonomic I guess .
  15. Welcome to the 'ville! I crochet a lot (and for decades), knit a little, and do Tunisian way less. I know you can cram a LOT of knit stitches onto circular needles, which are corded--like the Tunisian hooks, except a needle on each end, not a stopper on 1. As in, if you are making an adult pullover you can use a cord considerably shorter than the chest measurement, and the fabric can be all scrunched up on the cord. Try this - it will answer your question without spending any $. The first pass of a Tunisian is the same as a knit stitch as far as the amount of yarn on the hook for the forward pass. And you only need the cord on the forward pass, since you take them off the cord on the second pass. Make a swatch of a forward pass on a regular hook, as many stitches as you can get on there. Thread a tapestry needle with another piece of yarn and carefully transfer the stitches from the hook to the yarn with the needle. Scrunch up the stitches on the piece of yarn, so they are touching side to side, and measure the stitches. Let's say you got 10 stitches into 1.5", so each stitch is 0.15" wide. Your project is 102 stitches, times a made up number of 0.15" per stitch...is only 15.3 inches. I know the cords are available much longer than that...literally just a few seconds on Amazon I found sets of 12 sizes with 48" cords. They were in the neighborhood of 13-15 dollars for the set, some had bamboo hooks and some plastic hooks...looking at Joannes, I'm not finding much (1 corded hook in 1 size??) but it had a 32" cord, which will be plenty even if your stitches are 2x bigger than my made-up example (and that 1 hook was $5.49).
  16. Hi Y.Marie, This is an old thread and it looks like Crafty Gardner hasn't been on this site for almost 4 years, so she may not see this post. I looked at her blog, it looks like she is not a designer, but rather sharing projects she has made. I found a shawl on her blog that is corner to corner that she tested for another designer - here is the link http://www.craftygardener.ca/the-life-way-shawl/ . If this is it, (1) it would be unethical (not to mention, illegal) for her to share someone else's pattern as it is not her own, and (2) it appears to be a basic corner to corner pattern, of which there are LOTS of free patterns out there, mostly for blankets. She does link to the other designer--It appears that this pattern is no longer available on line https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/life-way-shawl. It looks like a plain c2c stitch pattern but with some chain loops here and there instead of squares. I don't do a lot of c2c but I'd guess the open areas would be something like: instead of 3 dc, make 2 chains, dc. Then in the next round, make the usual 3dcs around the 2 chains, or possibly 2 dc around the chains and 1 into the dc. Doing a search, this came up, 'inspired by' the c2c stitch but is very pretty, just for fun https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fortunes-shawlette You could just omit the heart on this one, is a plain c2c shawl with a shell edging https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/heart-c2c-shawl Not free, but c2c with some lacy details https://lilinettecrochet.blogspot.com/2018/05/lacy-days-of-elegance-shawl.html This is c2c, made a little differently in that it starts at the center long edge and has a 'spine', which would be the best (most conventional) way to make a striped shawl. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tea-cakes-shawl The only thing I'd change is the starting point, see in the last photo it's made with a full circle of DC, like you were starting a hat. I'd make that a half circle instead so the long edge doesn't have that bulge.
  17. I agree with BGS's rendering of the pattern. One nice thing is that the stitch pattern is simple enough, and the copious photos clear enough, that you could draw yourself a stitch diagram from it if you like to use diagrams. I suspect that the designer may not have English as her first language, she has a few phrasings that are just very slightly 'odd' but I don't think this was done via a translator program. Reading her phrasing reminds me of my US-born Grandmother who spoke mostly German for the first half of her life; she spoke English around English speakers like me but sometimes in a not-English word order. I also think the designer made at least one typo but didn't correct the wrong word that autocorrect selected, example 'integer' in one spot I think should be 'into'.
  18. Could you post a pic? In a post, below the area you type in, you can drag a photo or navigate to a photo on your device and choose it. Seeing it would help us suggest solutions. I assume it is a 90° triangle? Hopefully someone else comes by and has an idea or tells me my recollection of right angle triangle geometry is wrong, but adding an edging to 2 the sides that form the point is going to add twice as much to the width than the depth. So adding an edging won't be any different than continuing to add rows to the shawl. You do want a shawl to extend past your 'wingspan' (arms held out from your sides) for several inches, otherwise unless you keep it pinned it's hard to keep in in place. Edit - added a sketch. Smaller triangle is 'now', bigger, outside one is adding whatever edging or continuing with the pattern for a distance. The red lines are (geometry-wise) the same length, so adding the same amount all around adds 2x to the width than is does to the depth.
  19. Good question. Click on the Tunisian Back Bar stitch for a blow-up of the photo, I am NOT a Tunisian expert but it looks similar https://crochetkim.com/how-many-tunisian-crochet-stitches-are-there/ I didn't look here but it's a nice place to browse , click on 'stitchionary' at the top, and then look in the crochet stitch category https://newstitchaday.com/
  20. Cute! Another way I can think of, but you'd probably have to run it down the foot not the cuff as well in your case, is surface slip stitch. It's really easy, it's like embroidery but functionally making a slip stitch through the fabric. It goes quickly, and if you goof easy to rip and re-do. You could write it in cursive easily if you want, actually the less the 'pen' lifts from the 'paper', the easier it is at least end-weaving-wise. https://www.crochetspot.com/how-to-crochet-surface-crochet-or-surface-slip-stitch/
  21. I didn't think of that one, you think I would have since it's the stitch I used for the cover of my (solid color) hook case It does look nice in variegated. (I learned it as the "up down" stitch).
  22. Really, any complex stitch pattern is going to 'get lost' with variegated yarns The simpler-looking the stitch, the better, which I know is not what you wanted to hear. Here is a pattern designed for that yarn, it's a simple combo of DC and chains. Another stitch pattern that I've used with variagated yarns is one that has a bunch of names, it's also simple (just scs and chains) but it has a nice texture.
  23. Well done, and well deserved prize! Eye catching pattern as well.
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