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Granny Square

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Everything posted by Granny Square

  1. Wonderful visit to your house as always!
  2. Nice color combo, and it fits nicely!
  3. Granny Square


    What yarn was it? Not that this is the only yarn where this might happen, but several years ago I used Lion Brand 'Homespun' yarn to make a long sweater coat using a Lion Brand pattern calling out that yarn. The pattern actually said at a certain point to stop and hang up the piece and leave it for a couple of days because it would grow! Unfortunately, although I did do that it continued to grow quite a bit by the time I threw it out (did not hold up well, even ignoring the stretching). It's basically acrylic 'roving' (unspun fluff) held together by a sewing thread wrapped around it. The stitch I used was a 'woven stitch' which was basically sc, chain 1, repeat, then next row sc in the chain and chain over the sc, so since it was a little lacy that might have contributed to the sagging. My tension isn't loose (it's a tad on the tight side, at least comparing my gauge to most patterns I've picked) but the yarn is a bulky weight so took a large hook. On the other hand I've made cardigans and pullover tops (knit and crochet) with plain Red Heart Super Saver and haven't had them change size in the least. I'm not saying that brand is perfect, or that acrylic is (the Homespun was acrylic too) but RHSS is consistently plied and spun and a medium weight yarn and doesn't seem to 'grow'. I don't think that the stitch you used made a difference necessarily, as I've made wearables incorporating DC that is a looser stitch than HDC that haven't grown either. It might be your stitch tension, the stitch pattern (solid versus lacy) or the nature of the yarn used. Aside from switching patterns and yarns, the only other thing I can think of is making it considerably shorter to start with, or see if the 'hang it and let it grow' thing works..
  4. Beautiful! I love your 'not quite a cable', very unusual.
  5. Thanks Reni. I was thinking back to my beginning days of crochet, and I tried a lot of 'creative' ideas back then that sometimes didn't work, but just with hook and yarn it was just a matter of unravelling yarn to undo it, and no harm done. But in the OP's case, a cardigan has been potentially been compromised. To the OP, I've been thinking about your project since my first post....have you started in a spot on the cardigan where it would make sense to put just a funky edging? Like around the neckline, or hem? If so, what if...you rip out the fringe knots you've made into the fabric, and create a crochet fabric piece to sew over the area of fabric that's now got holes in it? Example, use rest of the yarn you've been doing short tufts with and make a strip of loop stitches, or find some eyelash yarn. Just a thought. Here is a tutorial on loop stitch https://www.interweave.com/article/crochet/loop-stitch-tutorial/ In the first step, the 'odd part' is described at the end of step 1 and the beginning of step 2. If it makes you feel better, I've been crocheting 50 years and don't do this stitch very often, I always have to find a tutorial so I don't mess it up. I've never done so, but supposedly you can cut the loops if you've done the steps correctly (and this site confirms it...try a swatch first!!) When I've done loop stitch, I've made a little paper 'sizer' to make the loops around - fold a small piece of paper over a few times, to the height you want your stitches. One source for eyelash yarn so you can see what it looks like - I've only used it a few times, you used to be able to find in in stores but not so much any more. https://www.yarn-paradise.com/eyelash_yarns It's a little difficult to crochet with by itself, a bit easier to wrangle if you pair it with a strand of plain yarn, in other words hold 2 strands together as you go.
  6. Welcome to the 'ville! Since you have only been crocheting a couple of days, I totally understand that you don't have the experience to appreciate that this wasn't going to be practical, unless you were making a wall decoration maybe that would never be washed or worn. 1) Yes, some yarn is 'slicker' than others, and yours looks shiny from the photo and looks slippery. 2) Never tie knots in crochet. Really. No, I'm serious. They WILL come undone. The way to secure the ends in crocheted fabric is to leave at least 6" to weave in the end invisibly with a needle, you don't even want to crochet over ends as that isn't very secure. 3) Glue? No. 4) If you are going to make fringe, you want to cut the yarn no less than 10" long, so your fringe ends up about 5" long. This is really on the short side, the longer the better for staying put and not coming undone and falling off. Normally you'd only put fringe on the very edge of something, not overall. There are 'eyelash' (hairy looking) yarns for a shaggy look to make something from scratch, or to add to an existing item for an edging. 5) You don't 'knot' fringe. You fold the yarn in half, put the hook in the fold, stick the hook in the loop of the thing you are attaching the fringe to, and pull the ends thru the loop in the fringe and the 'thing'. Like a latch hook rug, if you have ever done that. And if you have, you'd realize how HEAVY and unwearable that would be--great for rugs, bad for garments. Looking closer at your photos, I am assuming that you are past the point of no return from what I can see of the fabric underneath (meaning, the fabric will be ruined if you take the yarn out now). The only thing I can think of, and this will be horribly tedious, is to go back and darn every knot with sewing thread that matches the background fabric. Another way to get a shaggy look making an item from scratch would be to make it with a loop stitch. It is a little tricky, and maybe not for beginners - it is a little odd even for experienced crocheters as there is a non-intuitive detail in the 'hook motion' that is essential to secure the loop. I know I'm sounding lecture-y, but it's too bad you didn't come here before starting your project. Crochet is about creating fabric from scratch. It can be crocheted onto to a garment at an edge like a collar, cuffs, hem, or crocheted separately and sewn on (like a lace bodice over a little black dress, or an applique), but really it isn't normally created on a substrate of fabric--I've never seen anything done that way in the decades I've been crocheting. I've seen freeform items where fabric is 'patched in', but that's attaching at the edge.
  7. What is it made of? If it's acrylic, keep the iron in the closet. Or, make some swatches and play with 'killing them', but it destroys the yarn (IMHO). The plastic doesn't melt into molten goo, but it deforms into a crunchy limp non stretchy fabric. Others may tell you that 'killing' acrylic is the bees knees, but...try it first on a swatch. A shawl wouldn't be the worst thing to 'kill' because non-stretchy woven shawls are functional as well, but you wouldn't want to kill a garment like a hat or pullover because it won't stretch or retract any more. You don't need to stretch things to block them. You know when you buy a garment and it says 'hand wash, lay flat to dry?' Do the 'lay flat to dry' part. Lay down a clean 'tarp' (or plastic tablecloth - I have used a clear tablecloth I found at the Dollar Store, which are almost as thin as saran wrap but works fine) on the top of a guest bed, or floor, wet the shawl, gently squeeze excess water out and pat it into shape and let it air dry--if you have rust proof pins you can pin to shape or to emphasize lace, but you don't have to stretch it. You can take a hair drier at a distance to speed drying, that won't kill acrylic if you keep the heat far enough away. Or all of the above will work with cotton or wool, as well. I've blocked wool prior to seaming--no stretching just the 'wetting patting it nicely into shape' as you described - neatening it like that it helps tame it a bit for sewing up.
  8. Granny Square


    You're welcome! It is looking good, yay!
  9. Granny Square


    I'm still looking for a SC version, but here is a DC version of what you are trying to do (the closed pattern version). Looking at the diagram might help you visualize it better than the photos. Interesting that they are using 6 stitches in the corners, not 5, so maybe 4 not 3 in your crochet version couldn't hurt (1 sc, ch2, 1 sc) in each corner. https://crochetnmore.wordpress.com/2015/04/07/crochet-rectangles/ edit, only found 1 sc version and I thought it was written a bit confusingly so won't post it here. Really, the DC one works for SC if you adjust the corners for SC.
  10. Granny Square


    No, it won't; it will just make your blanket 1 stitch longer in 1 direction. When you get to the end of the chain, you need to make 2 corners on your now skinny chain- and when you come back around the other (beginning) end of the chain, make the other 2 corners. Remember you need to add circumference to get rid of the bubble in the middle.
  11. Granny Square


    Sorry if if sounded like I was lecturing you, sometimes folks come here for help and are loath to rip. Ok, you are starting with a chain and working out, gotcha. What your blanket is doing is 'cupping', which means it varies from being flat because the circumference is too small based on its ratio with the diameter--the solution to cupping is to add stitches. I think my guess in my first post was right, that you need to add more stitches in the corners. Everybody's stitch tension, including height, is different, so you may need to add even more in the corners now and then to encourage it to lie flat. BTW, you know the length of your chain determines the difference in the measurement of length and width of your blanket, right? If you start with a 2' chain, and add an equal height each row east, west, north and south, at the end you will have a blanket that is 3'x5', or 98'x100', depending on where you stop.
  12. Granny Square


    Hi Chloe, what I'm seeing is not what you are describing in your first post, or at least what I pictured. I thought you started from a center pinpoint, like a granny square, and worked around a center point--but that is not what I am seeing. The center green stitches are all going in the same direction for a large number of rows before I start seeing corners forming at 45° angles, so you do appear to be going back and forth in rows in that area at the top of the photo. However I'm not sure what is going on at the bottom end of the photo. The stitch count at the top of the center green part is way less than it should have been; and probably at the bottom, I can't quite tell. You know there is nothing that is going to fix this without ripping out 100%, or nearly so, and starting over, right? I'm not trying to be mean, just telling it to you straight. When you are following a pattern in the round, and are 100% certain you are following it correctly, and it starts to not lie quite flat, it is not a bad idea to keep going - for a short while. Depending on what it is, the same thing may have happened to the designer, and they may eventually throw in a correction that mitigates the problem. Or not. And then you need to recognize that YOU need to do to fix it, which may entail ripping back a few rows to where the problem began or decide to ditch the project all together. The point is, don't let it get past the point of being able to fix it, which happened already in the center green part. I have to say, as someone who works in the round a lot, as I like to make thread doilies, that working in the round can be a royal pain in the fanny. You are having to walk a perilous tightrope of adhering to the law of geometry, pi x diameter = circumference. You don't dare defy that law without bad things happening, like what happened in your blanket. You have to know what you are doing to fix a problem if your stitches start to defy that law, and act quickly or get used to ripping. Working in rows back and forth is a relative walk in the park, you just need to make sure you don't add or subtract stitches by accident. Oh shucks, I thought I could get this done before Magiccrochetfan beat me again, but it looks like we are seeing the same thing.
  13. I don't think so (and I'm a thready). And if it is multiple colors, don't get it near hot water as colors may run (red seems to be notorious for this). When I block a doily I usually stretch it fairly aggressively; you could possibly re-block it to be a bit smaller, but that depends, and probably not by a whole lot, especially if it's small since you have less to work with. Edit - is it a newly made thing, or an antique? If it's 'small', and you made it, I'd re-make it with a smaller hook or even choose a smaller thread and hook. And if it's an heirloom, even a few decades old, I'd be very careful of it - cotton thread does break down over time.
  14. Granny Square


    Hi, and welcome to the 'ville! Do you have a photo of one of these blankets, it might help to diagnose the problem. What occurs to me is that you might not be adding enough stitches to turn the corners, but then I'd think it wouldn't lie flat either. What do you do with the 2 chains when you get to a corner? The 'rule' for single crochet, example if you were making a SC border around a square or rectangle, is to put 3 stitches into each corner. What I like to do is, instead of 3 SC, is sc, chain, sc. Then if there are more rows to the border, put sc, chain 1, sc into that center chain in the corner of the prior row. It makes the corner turn more crisply than 3 sc in the corner. Hi Magic, great minds....
  15. Oh hey Magic, we are at it again posting at the same time!
  16. Welcome to the 'ville! I don't have any suggestions for a specific bulky brand for you, but you might consider making something with 2 strands held together of US#4 (medium) weight held together. (Aran, worsted, 10ply if you are in the UK) I've noticed a lot of beginners gravitate to bulky yarn, I'm guessing because it takes fewer stitches to make an x-sized thing so it goes faster. However it's also more expensive per yard, if you look at a skein of bulky versus medium weight it's got a lot less yardage, and the bulky skeins are usually more expensive. Example, using Joann's website pricing and a bargain brand Red Heart - RH 'super saver' #4 weight is $3.69 regular price ($2.95 on sale right now) for solid colors and 364 yards per skein. Red Heart Super Saver Chunky #5 weight yarn is 5.49 regular price ($4.39 on sale right now) and is 168 yards per skein. So (using regular price): 1 yard of #4 medium is $3.69/364 yards = $.01 per yard. 1 yard of #5 chunky is $5.49/168 yards = $.033 per yard. So I'm not sure if 2 strands of #4 medium exactly equals chunky (I'm thinking it might be somewhat thicker), but in any event it's cheaper to use 2 strands of the thinner yarn. This might not work with every brand and every seller, but if nothing else you are certain to find the colors you want in medium weight yarn.
  17. Ohhhh, I had a 'crocheting in my head' fail earlier. I was focused on 'there's no free loops in row 5', but no reason you couldn't use the same 2 loops that row 6 did. Which is exactly what it said to do. duh. I just tried a tiny sample (a dozen foundation chains, 2 rows of sc, 1 row of slst; slst-ing into the scs makes a sort of gap under the top 2 loops of the SC, so would be easy to see where you needed to put the hook on the following round to encase the slst row as you described. Then the next row of sc into the gap, encasing the slip stitch, DOES make the first row of sc want to fold. And it's sturdier at the turning, which I guess is a good think for a slipper. Clever! Good luck with your move, may nothing break or get lost in transit. Something to look forward to, maybe -- last time I moved, with all the packing, lifting, unpacking, putting away, I lost a few pounds!
  18. So cute! I love how the owls are just a tiny bit different different from each other.
  19. Bad news, sorry you are going to have to rip it out, and I suggest finding another pattern because the increase formula does not make any sense. Here is a site that gives head sizes for various ages http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/size-chart.html Here is a page that explains working in the round, and then using that info to make a hat. It's more of a recipe than a pattern, but it explains how you can make a hat from scratch if you know the measurements of the recipient with a little geometry, pi x diameter = circumference, so you start with a flat circle of a certain diameter, then continue without increasing to the length you want -- ta da, hat made. Example my head is 22" around, divided by pi (3.17) is pretty much exactly 7", so I work a 7" circle and work even for about 7.5-8" for the length if I'm not turning it up for a brim. (YMMV on the length, I have bangs which I don't like completely smashed, and my winters aren't too cold, so this doesn't completelycover my ears) Around the middle of the 'working in the round' section above, it gives a list of numbers to start with and increase by in each round. sc = 6, hdc = 8, dc = 12. That's the key, and why I knew your hat pattern was 'off' because it wasn't increasing enough. edited to fix typo
  20. Based on the 'look' of your yarn and hook in the photo I am going to guess your yarn may be US #4 (medium weight). According to the US standards, that weight of yarn would, in SC, span 4" in 11-14 stitches using a US I to K size hook (5.5-6.5mm) as an average. Let's say that matched your pattern designer's gauge. I stitch would be .286" to .364" wide per the above guide. .286" x 48 stitches =13.7" around, .364" x 48 stitches would be 17.5" Sydney, you just replied as I typed the above, which answered part of your question. I'll start another post to finish so you can see this.
  21. How big is it supposed to be? In other words, it's a LOT small for an adult but maybe only a little small for a baby. Observation - it looks like you may have worked into the back loop only of each stitch, which is not wrong, it just gives a different appearance. Would not affect size. Did the pattern give a gauge swatch? Like, x stitches and y rows = 4" square. Everybody has a different gauge with the same yarn and hook. (I see you're at it again, Magiccrochetfan-- )
  22. Hi and welcome to the 'ville! A little preamble before I get to your question. Just under the bootie I can see the instructions saying 'htr tog in blo'. BLO=back loop only, FLO=front loop only. When you make a stitch of any sort, the top of the stitch sort of looks like a chain, or stacked Vs. <<<< Normally you make stitches by inserting the hook under the whole V, in other words both loops. But, sometimes patterns will have you work in only 1 loop, usually the back loop, for a special effect. One effect produced is when you work into the back loop only, it leaves the front loop unused, like dashes ---- or a ridge across the fabric. These dashes can be left alone as decoration, or can be used in a later row as a place to put a stitch into, or helps a horizontal line 'fold' nicely, say in a transition between the sole and the side of a shoe. The half of the stitch top ">" away from you is the back loop, the one nearest you is the front loop. So in the photo, I'm assuming this was made same-side-facing at this point, and am not seeing anything that looks like a line of dashes ---- that would have been formed if you worked a prior round in the back loop, leaving the front loop free. I found a site with pictures that shows what working in the back loop looks like. You can see what they call 'front loop ridges' (what I'm calling 'dashes') in the third photo. Preamble over. Like you, I am also not clear, working on round 7, how you can work into BOTH loops of round 5. If round 5 had been worked BLO (or FLO) it would have made perfect sense to say to work into the free loop of round 5 to turn the corner. Or, if row 5 was worked FLO (so back loop was unused, and not visible in your photo), I could see the pattern telling you to work into the back loop of the slip stitch row and the free loop of round 5--this would nicely turn the corner, and maybe more sturdily as you are using 2 loops to do it.
  23. No, not that old. Win 10 came out about 4 years ago so you should be up to date on operating system. But some PCs don't have a lot of 'oomph' under the hood (processor or memory), even though they might be running Windows 10. Check "what's under the hood" of your computer to see if it has what it takes to run Chrome, based on the link I gave you. Let's see....go to Control Panel, then System and Security, then System. It tells you the processor and memory info you need to know to check against the Chrome requirements--from the link I gave above: Google Chrome will run on computers equipped with a Pentium 4 processor or higher, which encompasses most machines manufactured since 2001. The computer must have approximately 100MB of free hard drive space and 128MB of RAM. The oldest version of Windows supported by Chrome is Windows XP with Service Pack 2 installed. Chrome also runs on computers with Windows Vista or Windows 7 installed. If your microprocessor is "Pentium Silver" or "Atom", you may be out of luck for having enough processing power for Chrome. If you have "Pentium Gold" or I3, I5, I7 (Or AMD equivalents, should mention 'core'), you should be good for Chrome. Apparently the 'Celeron' processor can go either way, again, there are core and non-core versions.
  24. Holey moley, I haven't used AOL in decades. Are you using a really old computer and operating system, that may be the problem. Minimum computer requirements for Chrome is given here https://smallbusiness.chron.com/google-chrome-software-requirements-48820.html This is the link for installing Chrome, which I accessed thru AOL.com https://www.google.com/chrome/
  25. Hi, welcome to the 'ville and to crochet! Some patterns (especially those that are on blogs, or not 'tech edited') use poor wording or 'shorthand' that is sometimes decipherable to the more experienced crocheter, but not always for a beginner. First, hooray for you as a beginner for mastering the magic/adjustable ring, that confuses a lot of people. (There are other simpler ways to start the center of a circle that you are likely to find on older patterns). In general, not just hats, many patterns give you a 'sanity check' stitch count at the end of a row or round, so you can double check you didn't miss something. "do blah blah, repeat blah, 16 stitches" just means that after all the blah-ing is done, the # of stitches should be 16. Crochet hats typically start from a point at the center top and work down to the brim. So your first round was 12, your second round will end up with 16 (which is unusual, this is going to end up being a pointy hat*). The pattern says, with my underlined clarification of what it DIDN'T say, but meant: "*1 increase in the first stitch, 1 stitch in each of the next 2 sts* repeat from * to * = 16 sts". So for each 3 stitches from the original 12, you will be adding 1 stitch, meaning you are adding 4 stitches total for the round, 12+4 =16 which is what you are supposed to end up with. *The reason I'm guessing "pointy hat"; normally hats start with a number in the first round (12 for example), and then each round increases by 12 (round 2=24, round 3=36, round 4=48 total etc) until a certain diameter is reached, then you work for a distance to the brim without increasing. If it continues to increase only by 4, it's going to be a toboggan/elf style hat.
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