Jump to content

Granny Square

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Granny Square

  1. Instructions in round 5 (so I don't have to scroll)= (1dc in first 3sts, inc in next st, 1dc in next st three times, 1dc in next 4 sts) twice [32 sts] My accounting in bold: (1dc in first 3sts uses 3 makes 3 Your interpretation=1 double stitch in 3 stitches -- we agree inc in next st uses 1 makes 2 You=2 double stitches in next stitch(4th stitch)--we agree 1dc in next st three times, uses 3 makes 3 --but is strangely worded, why not 1 dc in next 3 sts like the first bit inside the parentheses? Or, why didn't it combine with the next part and say '1 dc in next 7 stitches' You=3 double stitches in next stitch (5th stitch, -- we disagree on # of stitches used, but stitch count is the same 1dc in next 4 sts) uses 4 makes 4 You=1 double stitch in the next 4 stitches--we agree My analysis = 1 repeat uses 11, and makes 12. If you do it 1 more time, it only uses 22, not 24, and creates 24 stitches, not 32, so unless I goofed I'm 8 off somehow. The only thing that I can think of, since we are off 8, which is a multiple of 4, and only the last line (segment) has 4, and that 'three times' was strangely worded in the segment before that, is that some wording was mixed up. If you put 4 stitches into 1 stitch, 3 times, (in other words, use 3 stitches to create 12) the stitches available to be used and the total # of stitches come out right. It might be something else entirely tho... Is the pattern photo clear, can you tell by examining it if this, or something else, makes sense? Bgs, you posted as I was trying to figure out the end part, I'm going to have to re-look at my math, but I need to run off (sorry OP, but I hope you feel better that it's not just YOU).
  2. You misread the pattern--you asked "Hi so it starts with 18 stitches so do I inc into the first 3 and then do what? The pattern did not say to increase in the first 3. It said "INC, Dc into the next 3 stitches". This means you increase in the first stitch of the row (inc=put 2 stitches into 1), then 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches. The original wording is not unusual wording or punctuation for a pattern. Another way to figure this out involves some simple math. Your last row ended with 18, and this row ends with 22, so you know you are adding 4 stitches. You also know there are no increases in the last 2 stitches, so you know you have to add those 4 somewhere in the first 16 - if evenly spaced, (which they are) that means you add 1 stitch to every 4 stitches of the prior row. The pattern is telling you increase 1 in the first of 4 stitches, and then put 1 stitch into each of the remaining 3 stitches of a 4 stitch group, until there are only 2 stitches remaining and you put 1 Dc into each of those 2 stitches..
  3. Now it makes sense - it does tell you exactly what to do. The instruction immediately before "shape armhole" is fasten off. Then--Shape armholes: Next row: (RS). Skip first 6 (8-10-12-14-18) sts. Join yarn with sl st to next dc... So the pattern tells you how to do it, and I can see why it didn't say to slip stitch, the pattern covers a LOT of sizes, and slip stitching a few is one thing, but slip stitching 18 is something else - I'd think it (might) have a (slightly) different appearance than joining a new yarn, that would be only on 1 side of the armhole.
  4. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". There are lots (well a few anyway) of ways to hold your hook, and probably a whole lot more ways to hold/tension your yarn with the other hand. I hold my hook like a pencil, and when the internet came along and I found out that some crocheters held their yarn overhand/knife style I tried that and thought "nope, nopity nope, no way". Then my next project was a knit one and realized I KNIT overhand...um... I think I tension my yarn SORT OF the same way as you, over the first finger, under the second, then laying over the last 2 fingers--but I create stiches much differently. I learned knitting first (continental style, which means you tension yarn with the left hand), and that was exactly how I tensioned crochet when I learned that later. I had grab some yarn to make sure what my left hand was doing in crochet- the pinky side of my wrist moves slightly skyward, then quickly back down each stitch in the action of moving the yarn thru my fingers, but my fingers weren't really moving except to very subtly loosen side to side to let the yarn pass--I didn't even realize they were doing even that. So the major difference is my right hand is doing all the work to form the stitch, my left hand does not contribute in any way in wrapping the yarn around the hook. Whether that contributes to speed or not, I can't say, but may explain why I have arthritis in my right hand fingers and not my left...
  5. I lost you a little bit on the construction, but on the "maybe I should have left a longer yarn tail" issue - there are a few ways to join yarn in the middle of a row, like when you run out of skein 1 and have to grab skein 2. You could do a braided join, or a Russian join. There are variations - this one for braided is not how I do it, I unply both ends, overlap and braid in both directions but I don't see why this 1 sided version wouldn't work just as well. So in your case, you could just cut a length of yarn long maybe 25-30cm long - enough to sew pieces together with + a few inches to manipulate the needle with + weave in + to overlap join to your short tail. The first time I did these techniques, in the middle of a row of knitting (stockinette, which is a "plainer" stitch than most crochet), I thought it would be really obvious but the joined spot is almost impossible to find later.
  6. You're welcome. I cheated on the knit terms, I copied and pasted a list of knitting terms from somewhere and deleted the ones that weren't increases or decreases - but crickey! I knew there were a lot but didn't think there were THAT many... I'm sorry you had trouble with that pattern. I'm usually pretty stubborn and try to stick with a difficult pattern but sometimes I just have to say "enough already, life is too short..."
  7. Do you mean a market bag, or a purse? A market bag meaning usually a netting sort of pattern, like this - which I just picked because it was pretty typical, and free, but it also happens to use the sort of yarn I was going to suggest for a market bag - worsted weight cotton. You could also use plain old acrylic of the same yarn weight, but the cotton will pill less. Lion Brand 24/7 yarn is mercerized cotton 'worsted weight'-- I would choose mercerized for a purse, it has a nicer, sturdier finish (like doily thread) than plain 'kitchen cotton'. I've never used it (I had some but gave it away) but there is a 'crochet nylon' that is super sturdy, and it's sometimes used for purses (the first time I saw someone using it was in Mexico, a lady was selling lovely crocheted handbags and crocheting away while waiting for customers) Here is Hobby Lobby brand, it comes in several colors and is sport weight; the stuff I had was Red Heart, but I think Spinrite may have done away with it when they took over Coats&Clarke, I'm not finding it on the Yarnspirations site. I'm sure this would also work great for market bags as well.
  8. Welcome to the ville! Something that happens to a LOT of new crocheters is that they err in keeping a constant stitch count when working on a blanket (most commonly, or anything worked back and forth). Where are you - did you know that crochet stitch names differ in the UK versus the US? Rather, that the same words mean different stitches, which is confusing. I'm going to use US terms--I will translate to UK if necessary. Mostly per the threads here I think it's due to erring at the end of rows due to not understanding how to handle a turning chain. SC - turning chain is 1, conventionally does not count as a stitch. You don't stitch into it at the end of the row. DC - turning chain is (typically) 3, conventionally counts as a stitch. Normally after a row of DC, you turn, chain 3, skip the first stitch of the next row (because the chain-3 is functionally 'in' that first stitch, and proceed to the end (if you fail to skip the first real stitch, you will have created an increase). At the end of the row, place the last stitch into the top chain of the turning chain of the prior row (if you fail to stitch into the turning chain, you will have created a decrease) Taller stitches (trebles etc.) are treated like DC, except the turning chain is taller. HDC is a little flighty, sometimes the turning chain is 1, sometimes 2, and sometimes it counts as a stitch and sometimes it doesn't - a well written pattern will tell you. One way to check to see if you are gaining or losing stitches - pick a stitch on the first row, a few stitches from the edge, and trace the line of stitches made into that stitch up a few rows. Let's say that stitch was 5 stitches from the edge - if a few rows up that traced line 'falls off the edge', you are losing stitches on that side. If a few rows up, the line of stitches ends up being more than 5 stitches from the edge, you are gaining stitches on that edge. "arching" sounds like you are gaining stitches.
  9. How odd the pattern didn't say; slip stitching would be my best guess too. Is this a pattern on the internet somewhere--just curious.
  10. Granny Square


    Glad you figured it out!
  11. ^ Working in rounds, whether on a hat or toy in a 'tube' or a granny-square type item, exacerbates the 'bias' that crochet stitches have. The top loops of a crochet stitch, where we put stitches into for the following round, don't sit directly on top of a stitch, they sit a little to one side. As Bgs said, working in turned rows this doesn't happen--well it does, but the bias cancels itself out so you don't notice it, like this //// \\\\ In the round, this happens ///// ///// ///// But you said you are working in rows, and the blanket it leaning in one direction, like this / / but the stitch count isn't off. It sounds more like you (may be) adding a stitch on 1 side, and subtracting it on the other, perhaps? This works better, or is easier to see, on a plainer stitch pattern--Look at your blanket, pick a stitch (example) 5 stitches in from 1 side, and 'follow up' the column of stitches made into that stitch the blanket. If it remains 5 stitches from the edge, you're keeping on that side. If it disappears off the edge you are losing stitches on that side; if that column ends up more than 5 stitches from the edge, you are gaining stitches on that side.
  12. Granny Square


    I just did a search and neither "dcg" or "dc g" appear - what page is it on, or instruction number? Did I link to the right pattern (it's same name & designer name) edit- oops, Hi Bgs. OK it wasn't just me. OCR software is a good messer-upper of text too, where a printed page is scanned an an 8 turns into a B for example.
  13. Granny Square


    Thanks for the pattern info, here is the Ravelry link - free pattern, I'll have a look and report back if I can figure anything out (or not). https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tumbling-blocks-12
  14. Granny Square


    Oh, good sleuthing Bgs! Yes, that formatting stinks, how can the blog poster not have noticed that? Sheesh.
  15. That's pretty! I'm usually not a big fan of variegated yarn, but this example with the long color runs is stunning.
  16. Granny Square


    The only thing that I can think of that this might be a typo for is a 'dc x together' decrease, example "dc2tog', but it doesn't help you figure out how many stitches to turn into 1 stitch. And the evidence is flimsy, I'm only going by the "g" clue.
  17. Interesting question. I would think the guides would both have the same underlying roots of geometry, which would be the same for both. Example, you don't need a pattern to make a basic hat; a hat involves pi=circumference divided by diameter--there are many sites that gives the average head circumference and hat depth for kids to adults, that is really all you need to know, besides how to knit or crochet, to make a hat (make a flat circle with the right diameter for the recipient's head, then work without increasing for the depth - done). Yes, if you had a fancy stitch repeat you'd have to calculate how that is going to work, but that's beyond the scope of a 'basic shape' guide. The only thing that I can think of is generic shape rules, not necessarily just for shawls, like - how many extra stitches do you put in corners to make a square? (typically 3 for crochet, 5 for DC). Or, how many stitches do you add each round for a flat circle? (sc=6, hdc=9, dc=12 is the rule, but might depend on your stitch height gauge) Googling 'how to make different shawl shapes' yielded a whole bunch of (probably mostly) knit sites on the subject. A knit or purl stitch is just a slightly squatty SC, so 'theory' should work for both, but you will have to work with the theory, your stitch gauge, and the stitch you want to use. Be prepared for a lot of ripping / trial and error--this would be the case even if the sites were for crochet. https://knitting.today/shawl-design-for-everybody/ This looked interesting, it's knitting but also gives descriptions and diagrams. Hmm, it would probably help to translate some terms, knitting increases and decreases are confusing because they lean, and there's a billion way to do them...well, lots....holey moley, there are a lot more of them of them that I thought, this is copied from the craft yarn council site and I deleted all the knitting terms that weren't increases or decreases. Abbreviation Description kfb knit 1 into front and back of a stitch; single knit increase ksp knit 1 stitch, slip this stitch from right needle to left needle, pass second stitch on left needle over first stitch and off left needle; return stitch to right needle; single right-leaning decrease k2tog knit 2 stitches together; single right-leaning decrease M1 or M1K make one stitch knitwise; single knit increase M1R make one right; single right-leaning knit increase M1L make one left; single left-leaning knit increase M1p make one purlwise; single purl increase M1rp make one right purlwise; single right-leaning purl increase M1lp make one left purlwise; single left-leaning purl increase pfb purl 1 into front and back of a stitch; single purl increase p2tog purl 2 stitches together; single decrease SKP slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass slip stitch over knit stitch; single left-leaning decrease SK2P slip 1 knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over knit 2 together; double left-leaning decrease ssk slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit these 2 stitches together through back loops; single left-leaning decrease ssp slip 2 stitches knitwise, return these 2 stitches to left needle and purl them together through back loops; single left-leaning decrease sssk slip 3 stitches knitwise, knit these 3 stitches together through back loops; double left-leaning decrease sssp slip 3 stitches knitwise, return these 3 stitches to left needle and purl these 3 stitches together through back loops; double left-leaning decrease S2KP2 slip 2 stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit 1, pass 2 slipped stitches over knit stitch; centered double decrease SSPP2 slip 2 stitches knitwise, return these 2 stitches to left needle and then slip them as if to p2tog through back loops, purl 1, pass 2 slipped stitches over purl stitch; centered double decrease yo yarn over (increase – leaves a lacy hole)
  18. Welcome to the 'ville Deelorra - you might want to delete your email address as anyone on the internet can see it, we don't want someone sending spammy stuff to you. Unfortunately that site hosting the link 'went away several years ago, and I couldn't find it archived. It's too bad someone didn't say the name of it, it might have been findable elsewhere or one of those like "grandma's favorite" or "ballband dishcloth" that have infinite variations. I'm one who mostly crochets, but I also prefer knit washcloths as some confessed above - they are less dense and dry quicker; I suppose crochet might work better if you worked not with standard worsted weight kitchen cotton, but a fingering weight cotton. If I were to guess a plain crochet stitch pattern that would work nicely as a washcloth, and was neither super dense or super holey, it would be the woven stitch (which has many names), basically sc, chain 1, repeat; next row chain 1 over the sc, sc into the chain from the row below. AKA granite stitich, moss stitch - there are several tutorials out there.
  19. Ideally you want to crochet a swatch bigger than 4" and measure the center 4" and count those stitches (shh, don't tell anybody, I don't always do that, but it IS a good idea as the edge stitches can sometimes be not representative of the rest). To answer your question - I wouldn't bother to do the 'stitch repeat math', rather just chain more than 4", say 5 or 6, turn and work back until you have at least 4" across and can't do another repeat, and work up from there. If you want to keep your swatch, you can pick the extra chains out (it won't unravel from the knot end.)
  20. I don't blame you, that's a heck of a sentence. I encounter a lot of pattern lines like that in doilies, not the turning part but 1 sentence that is half a page long. What I typically do / since I mostly work from hard copies / is put hash marks between steps. That helps to keep my head from spinning. Or if you have a soft copy in a document editing program, use carriage returns instead, like this (in your example, a new line with each turn seems to make the most sense): Ch1, sc in same st, ch3 sk 2 st, sc in 3rd st, TURN, 3 sc in ch 3 sp.,sl st in beg sc. TURN (pushing “cable” to back), sc in next 2 sc, ch 3, sk worked sc and unworked sc, sc in next sc, TURN , 3 sc in ch3 sp, sl st in next sc, TURN, sc in both worked and unworked sts, rep from and around to last st, ch 3, skip over beg sc, sc in base of the first sc of 2 center sc under the cable, TURN, 3 sc in ch 3 sp, sl st in sc, TURN, sc in worked sc, sl st in top of first sc (cables). Having said that, your pattern's stitch is really interesting - and the way it is written reminds me of a knit bobble. I repicked up knitting a while back after learning the basics decades ago, and bought a how-to book to brush up and learn more, and found out that knit bobbles are really several tiny little rows back and forth in one spot - I thought that was absolutely crazy. I happened to find a youtube whose author had the same opinion, and showed how to sub a crocheted popcorn stitch instead. Which is a long story to say, your hat stitch pattern looks a lot like popcorn stitches to me. And not how a crochet 'cable' is made nor how I'd describe its appearance. If I were doing this pattern, I'd probably try it to see what I thought about it in the interest of 'science', but I suspect I might decide it was too much bother and sub popcorn stitches. The pushing the cable to the back - when you make a popcorn stitch, or similar stitches that protrude out of the fabric like a bubble, you can poke the 'bubble' to protrude from 1 side or the other--so that's all that 'pushing the cable to the back' meant.
  21. Granny Square


    ^ What she said. For another thread a while back on a similar topic, I drew a sketch, if I may recycle it - see below. As Bgs said above, you've started from the bottom hem and worked up to the armholes. From this point, you'll only be working (probably) 1 of the fronts to the neckline, finishing off, (probably) skipping a few underarm stitches, working the back to the neckline , finishing off, skipping underarm stitches if you did before, and then working the other front to the far edge, and up to the neckline, and finishing off that last piece. The next step is (probably) folding over the fronts to the backs and sewing together the shoulder seams, and insetting separately made sleeves, or possibly attaching the yarn at some point of the armhole and working around the armhole in rounds to the wrist. The red lines in my drawing are fold lines, the blue lines are showing the fronts folded to the back, then sewn, to form the shoulders.
  22. I hadn't thought of that, good point -- with doilies I'm always trying to get rid of them!
  23. There are a lot more things to worry about, there are a more of terms in there that don't translate to English or are English words but don't know what they mean (loop? stitch maybe, or maybe not) and I can't even guess at, starting at row 17, psc, sb, sbn... My advice is find another dragon pattern written in English - truly not meaning to be rude, just practical. Edit, I just went back to your original post - we are probably of a similar age, I've been crocheting for a little over 50 years. I, at least, would not have the patience, to muddle thru the translated words of this pattern unless I thought I could recreate the unintelligible parts by looking at the pattern photo. And if it were something not as (presumably) complicated as your dragon....
  24. Working the questions backwards, working with colors when you can't hide them in a seam, like in your shawl--You are going to have to cut the end of each color and weave the ends in securely. There are videos that show how to do this, if you don't do it right it' going to fall apart and you don't want to spoil your work. To end an old color, I just cut the yarn about 6" long for the sort of yarn used in your shawl, and pull the tail thru. This is not horribly secure, but it won't fall apart - it becomes secure when you weave in well. I tend to do all the end weaving at the end in case I find an error 20 rows back or whatever, because I weave probably over-securely and can't pick out my end-weaving usually. To start a new color, (after ending the old color as above) -- the way I learned to add a new color at the end of a row is to turn the piece so you are working in the right direction, stick the hook in the last stitch of the old color, pull the new yarn thru (so there's a loop on your hook now), and usually chain some amount to start the row and proceed with the new color. This leaves the ends not very secure (as said above, above, in case I have to rip), but I've never had them come undone - might be different if you have kids and pets that might get at it. Another way is a 'standing stitch', you can google videos for this. Regarding the ruffle, look at what Bgs posted, and also the original photo - all these "V" rows ruffle to some degree. I make a lot of doilies, and it's a rare doily pattern that I don't have to tinker with to keep it flat. I think you need to remove a stitch or 2 in each 'V'. Some scenarios: (1) remove 1 DC on each side of the 'V' --that removes 2 stitches in each V. (2) remove 1 DC on each side of the V and chain 1 in the 'valley' between the sides of each V--that removes 1 stitch for each V. (3) remove 2 DCs from each side of the V - that removes 4 stitches in each V (4) remove 2 DCs from each side of the V, and chain 1 in the 'valley' between the sides of each V--that removes 3 stitches for each V. You see the pattern forming...I think removing more may be too drastic. Try the more drastic one first (3), if if works, great, but if it pulls too tight it might help you figure which of the other options will be best. Also, the reason for a chain in the middle - it removes bulk, even tho there's a stitch there, it doesn't take up as much room--this is a trick for turning outside corners, to put a chain in the middle of the turn and it squares off / lays flat better.
  25. You're very welcome. There are a lot of other textured stitches you could play with too, to alternate with plain SC stripes if the 'little bumps' pattern I suggested is not to your liking - one site with a bunch of them is https://newstitchaday.com/ , go to stitchionary, then crochet stitches.
  • Create New...