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Granny Square

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Everything posted by Granny Square

  1. I'm not a Pinterest member and don't know if this link will work, but this photo has a better angle of that area and shows that the widening /\ seems (ha, I typed "seams" initially) to be sewn together probably with a sewing machine. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/462674561699612957/
  2. Heh. With real jeans back in the day. we picked the bottom seam up to a bit below the knee and sewed in a V-shaped paisly (or whatever) fabric hemmed piece of fabric. What I'm not recalling is if this was done on 2 sides of each leg, or just the outside leg, I'm thinking just outside (hey, that was a long time ago...) A lot of lacy patterns done in rows or rounds achieve a widening sort of shape by 'sprouting' I've done this with doilies and a v-stitch pattern in a shawl/poncho I made up but I can't think of a way to logically do this with motifs. I just saw Darski's answer, I ha
  3. I must have pushed the wrong button, my link didn't take yesterday, sorry!. Trying this again, a result of cotton and acrylic blend yarns of US 4 weight https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/search#weight=worsted&fiber-content=cotton%2Bacrylic&sort=best&view=thumblist
  4. Here is a lovely square one (free), with hearts. https://www.yarnspirations.com/aunt-lydias-hearts-desire-ring-bearer-pillow/ALC0520-025151M.html this is in #10 thread https://www.lionbrand.com/products/crochet-pattern-ring-bearers-pillow-cover-1 this calls for a discontinued yarn in #3 DK weight and H hook, but you could probably use #3 weight mercerized cotton (different scale of weight than yarn, but it's the biggest mercerized thread size that I've seen in stores, and not a whole lot thinner than DK yarn - it would look nicer than yarn, more satin-y. If you don't have a Lio
  5. Welcome to the 'ville! The ones I've seen, probably because I mostly work in thread, are a thread doily-like top over a satin pillow, so a bit of sewing involved (but could easily be done by hand.) Most any small doily would work, even a small round one where the edges draped over the edge of the square pillow a little. I'll take a look...
  6. Give a good stare at the pattern photos as I mentioned, this has gotten me out of a lot of ?huh? moments for a weird maneuver a pattern was telling me to do, not so much which stitch to use as in your case, but hopefully will help identify whether a single stitch really does look like a US SC in a particular spot etc. Good luck!
  7. I don't speak Italian, but Garnstudio.com has a translator (like English=Single Crochet, Italian = whatever). There is other neat stuff on that link (in case you want to browse more later), click on the 'gossary' on that page for the term translator. Running what you gave thru google translate, it is really surprisingly understandable. I am guessing low point may be slip stitch (on the 4th chain make a 'low point' for example). It's telling you step by step and each step has a photo, and tells you which photo to look at for that step. Altho I mostly hate patterns that are full of
  8. Welcome to the 'ville! I'm in the US, so I had to look up that yarn (so no familiarity with it being discontinued or not, but yarn styles DO come and go)...I'm surprised it uses US yarn weight 'terms' (4-medium) which is I believe UK 8-10 ply. The unusual thing (to me) is that it's 45% cotton 55% acrylic, that's the part that may make a substitute hard(er) to find. Here is a search on Ravelry of all yarns that are US weight 4 and are acrylic and cotton blend. Worsted and Aran weight, you can see the selection at the left side and make changes. Some of these may be 'extinct', bu
  9. The pattern that Bgs linked should work (and be not-to-difficult for a new crocheter, since as a knitter you probably understand shaping construction/assembly already). I think this could even be made in 1 piece and just using vertical color stripes. Most crochet hats are made brim down, so the shaping is done first and the increase lines often line up in wedge shapes like that, so would be fiddly but not difficult to do it with (4?) other-color bobbins as you go. The grey open vertical 'blanket edge looking' stitches on either side of the 'seams' of the original appears to be emb
  10. Welcome to the 'ville, and your photo looks like you are on the right track When you skip 2, no you are not skipping one you just worked into. Think of it this way; to keep your fabric flat, you have to keep the stitch count the same, in other words don't increase or decrease the total stitch count in a row. Your V stitch (dc, ch1, dc) is 3 stitches into 1. To keep the stitch count in a row the same, think of the V stitch needing to use 3 stitches from the row below to keep the fabric flat. To do that, the (dc, ch1, dc) skips a stitch on either side of it, so skipping 2 cha
  11. No worries, I was translating for me and for the other English speakers. Welcome to Crochetville!
  12. I can read Spanish but not Portuguese, LoveCrochetPatterns said "This pattern is very cool, and different from the ones I've seen. It is not my pattern (nor my link below); I will post here because I thought it was important to share with you". (per to Google translate) Debscodas replied in Spanish 'thank you for sharing!' -- To which I will add "obrigado por compartilhar é muito bonito" (thank you, it's very beautiful)
  13. I agree with Debscodas, I also read it as extended half double crochet stitch. Not sure why a plain old DC wouldn't work, haven't tried it but maybe it looks different. Also agree with Bgs that the pattern SHOULD have had a special stitches section to explain it, as it is not a common stitch. edit, my bad, I came back later and there do seem to be typos I overlooked before; I think once I figured out 'extended' was meant my brain ignored the typos: Line 10's hed2tog in line 10 is correctly 'spelled' in line 13 as ehdc2tog, but then line 13 also throws in eehdc which I'm sure ha
  14. My bad, when I saw the slip stitches at the beginning I looked for corresponding chains at the end of the repeat (because that's the only way I could think of that slip stitches would make sense), I should have said something. Glad it's sorted out!
  15. The OP created another thread with more details, it's the one about the Steelers blanket gauge, here
  16. Is it a cluster? (meaning all the 5 stitches into 1 are connected at the top) or a shell? (5 unconnected stitches into 1 stitch, looking like a fan). It doesn't matter as Bgs explained what to do either way, but just to describe the resulting appearance, in case you think you might have done something wrong: Because you are connecting the hook from the top of the cluster (or left stitch of a shell) to the chain, it's either going to make the cluster/shell lean to the left down to the skipped chains, or the sipped chains 'pull up' to the top of the cluster or shell. It's not an unco
  17. Everyone has a different stitch-making 'tension', including designers; some crochet tightly, some loosely, and if you have a tight-crocheting designer and you crochet loosely, or vice versa, stuff won't end up the same size. I can't remember the details now, but over the decades I've had to use a ridiculously different sized hook to achieve pattern gauge a few times. If you are not achieving the designer's gauge, there is nothing the designer can do but suggest the same thing I did. I am not sure but I think you are saying your piece is too small? If a US I or J size hook are too
  18. I've never worked a diagram in 2 pieces lie that, it's...disorienting. Getting my bearings... This is worked in rounds (not a spiral), ending each round with a slip st into top of first stitch of the round, and chain up. But it doesn't show the joining slip stitches in each round. So the round before the 2 slip stitches ( v v ) is round 8 if I'm counting correctly, and you've just slip stitched into the 3rd chain from the beginning of the round (the turning chain which stands in for a DC) to close the round. Hmm. I would count that joining slip stitch as the first of the 2 slip s
  19. Debscodas, I'm curious, does this work for you? I just tried it over a few short rows, and it makes the first DC sort of scrunch up and be quite a bit shorter than the rest; actually on the last row I followed that turning DC with HDC and they were the same height. Does it cause an "edge shortness buildup"? Might depend on one's stitch height tension... Another alternate that I've seen suggested for DC is chain 1 and SC in the first stitch, (normal SC so far) then chain 1 or 2 to your DC stitch height. On the return pass, use the topmost chain to put the last DC into (which is the sam
  20. Both of the links above are excellent, as is BGS' advice. Edie Eckman also has books of patterns and how-tos (Kindle and print) that you might want to look into as well. Observation at the far end of the photo: It looks like you have added an edging along the edge of the rows of SC, and it is ruffling. Ruffling happens when you have too many stitches allow it to lie flat. SC stitches are not square, they are a tad shorter than wide, and the proportion depends on your own personal stitch tension--therefore you are likely to create a ruffle if you put 1 SC into the side of each row of S
  21. Ellie13, it has several names, and can be worked diagonally ( you've probably seen C2C stitch ) or in rows. Check this out
  22. Welcome to the 'ville Kasidy! I agree with Bgs, crochet patterns from the 1970s pretty much adhere to the current conventional 'grammar' of pattern writing that you'll see in the US Craft Yarn Council site (and I don't see anything unclear, scanning this pattern). However current self published patterns (like on someone's blog, or sold on Etsy) are as likely to be awful as excellent. Is there a specific line or bit that is confusing you? If you've started something that you think you've done right but doesn't look right to you, can you post a photo? Maybe we can spot a problem area (i
  23. That's a 'guide' I found on a website a long time ago (Crochet Cabana)--6 SC, or 8 or 9 HDC, or 12 DC to start a circle, and increase that stitch count each round. (I believe it's under tutorials, working in the round) It works fairly well for me, BUT it depends on your stitch height gauge. If you are getting cupping you probably make make tallish stitches, nothing wrong with that, I make shortish ones, but you just might have to make adjustments following designers with short stitches, as I have to make adjustments following designers with tall stitches.
  24. Sorry, I hope what I said earlier didn't confuse you. There is a certain "crochet pattern grammar" conventionally written patterns use: If a pattern says 'make 4 stitches", and doesn't say where to make them, it means "make 1 stitch into each of the next 4 stitches". If the pattern wanted you to do something other than the above with the next 4 stitches , it would specifically say where, (example) "skip next 2 SC, make 4 sc into the following stitch". You'd be surprised how many stitches you can cram into 1, shell stitches for example are typically 3, or 5, or a higher odd number o
  25. To add to what Bgs said, I'm going to copy down the 2 lines of your pattern and guess at what the next might be: Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc; rep 6 times (36 sts) Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc; rep 6 times (42 sts) guess - Rnd 8: Sc 6, inc; rep 6 times (48 sts) A lot of toys start out with a flat circle for a few rows before the shaping starts. A flat circle in SC starts with 6, and adds 6 each round; each round increases by 1 the # of plain stitches before the increases. Just mentioning this because recognizing a pattern to what you are doing can help keep you on track and make counting stitch
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