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Granny Square

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About Granny Square

  • Rank
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  • Ravelry ID
    Granny-Square
  • Location
    Pacific Northwest
  • Interests
    Crochet, Sewing
  • Occupation
    Semi-retired
  • How long have you been crocheting?
    1970's Granny Square era ;)
  • Favorite things to crochet
    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  • Favorite Hook
    Aluminum

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  1. Granny Square

    Need help

    Welcome to the 'ville! Your pattern (functionally) has 1 DC on each side edge, and V-stitches between. I say 'functionally' because the the starting "DC" is the chain 3 turning chain. V stitches and shells are relatives, but not quite the same thing. Shells are usually x of the same stitch type (like 3 DCs for example) into 1 stitch, then a short stitch (slst or sc), then another shell, skipping some number between shell and short stitch depending on how many stitches the shell has. V stitches are x DCs, y chains, x DCs all into 1 stitch (x and are often different numbers, but can be the same number as in your pattern, where both are 3). So think of the unit you are making as an "assembly" of 3DC+3CH+3DC. Also, V stitches are missing the 'short stitch between', instead the last stitch of a V-stitch assembly is adjacent to the first stitch of the next assembly. After the first setup row it gets easier. Except for the ends, it's just make that assembly into each chain space in the middle of the "assembly" in the row below. The ends are just CH3 at the beginning, and DC into the CH3 that started the row below.
  2. Granny Square

    Baby bootie pattern help

    Ah, good luck! Some booty/slipper patterns can get origami-like in ways to wrap yarn around a foot
  3. Granny Square

    Baby bootie pattern help

    Could you post a link if this is a free pattern, or the source if it's a purchased one (example, Etsy page, or 'ABC Slipper, XYZ magazine or book' etc. Sometimes it helps to look at a photo of the finished thing to figure out what the pattern is telling you. Is there a diagram? Row 1-8 makes sense, right? A rectangle 26 stitches long and 8 rows high. Row 9 is a bit vague (a few stitches--really?) If you have 26, then slst across 5 that leaves 21, and if you need to leave the last 4 unworked, 21-4= 17 sc in the middle, plus 1 chain that counts as a sc. (so you have 4 'empty' stitches on each end, since there is a chain 'sprouting' from the 5th slst that counts as a stitch) Row 10-16 is working back and forth across the 18 sc. You have 8 rows 26 stitches across, and 7 rows of 18 stitches that are centered in the middle of the earlier rows. I won't try to guess how this fits into becoming a bootie, there are all sorts of schemes to make them--that's why a pic might help make sense of it.
  4. Granny Square

    Bangkok Shawl

    Beautiful work! The the long color runs worked perfectly with that pattern too.
  5. The splitting apart from the armholes up means instead of continuing to work across ALL the stitches between the end of the slit and the start of the armholes (which are one front+back+other front in 1 piece), you will make 3 separate 'pillars', one pillar at a time. (1) first pillar work back and forth only across the first front stitch portion x rows to to the shoulder, cut yarn. (2) Reattach yarn, work back and forth just across the back stitch portion to the shoulder, cut yarn. (3) Reattach yarn, work other front portion back and forth to shoulder, cut yarn. Below is a crude sketch I drew to help another person with the construction on a similar garment - the proportions may not be exactly right, and doesn't have the bottom slits, but it should give you an idea of what I meant by 'pillars'. The vertical red lines are the 'side seams', ignore these as your piece doesn't have side seams it's all 1 piece from the undeararms down. The blue lines show how you'd fold the fronts over the back, right sides together, to sew the shoulder seam.
  6. Granny Square

    Help I don't understand pattern

    This is made in 2 pieces and sewn at the sides and underarms, right? I'm in the US, and this is UK terms (no problem your half treble is our half double), but I'm blanking on what a TCH is. Turning chain? So, up to the sleeves, you've made a rectangle that is either the front or the back (let's say back), that is half of your garment's body diameter. This is a T shirt, you've made the vertical part of the T. Now you need to make the foundations for the horizontal part of the T that sticks out beyond the body on either side, so you will, on following rows, be working as sleeve, back, sleeve, all in 1 row. To make this foundation, you have to add chains to each side of the body back, so the bottom row of the sleeves will be in the same line as the next row of the body. The reason you make an extra chain on the second half of that instruction (19 versus 18) is that the extra chain will be a turning chain, which you don't need at the far end of the row made into the foundation chain. Hopefully this helps you picture what you're doing. You should be doing the same stitch pattern as before, just over a longer length.
  7. Welcome to the 'ville! It's ok to post a line of a pattern, so the 'shape armhole part is -- Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, turn, sk first hdc, hdc in next 4 hdc, hdc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk 1 hdc, hdc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 10 (12, 14) more times for Right Front – 11 (13, 15) ch-1 sp. Continue in established pattern over these sts until Right Front measures 11 (12, 13) in. (28 (30.5, 33) cm) from beginning of armhole shaping. Fasten off. Don't feel bad, this pattern could have been a lot clearer by just adding a few words to orient you. It took me a while to figure out that this was worked bottom up, (I was assuming top down). The back and fronts were made separately for 14 rows, which is 7" per pattern gauge; the 3 pieces form the bottom slit. Then you joined the 3 pieces into 1, and worked back and forth across the combined body portion until it was 20" tall, which is the bottom of the armhole. In the 'shape armhole' part, you are splitting it back into 3 pieces again, so you are at first only working across the number of stitches that will be the right front, back and forth, until you reach the shoulder, and break off. Then you reattach the yarn and work just across the back stitches to the shoulder/neckline, break off, and repeat for the left front. Then you sew the shoulder seam....and so on.
  8. Granny Square

    Size 30 Thread substitute

    Nuts, I thought I wrote this down somewhere, and I did, but it was strands of embroidery floss to crochet thread. Which might be close enough? Here's my notes 7-8 strands of floss = #3 thread 6 strands = # 5 thread 4-5 strands = #10 thread 3 strands = #20 thread 2 strands = #30-50 thread 1 strand = #100 thread Edit--Oh! I just remembered...I had some ancient #30 thread in white and variegated yellow and made a white doily that had yellow Irish roses around the edge...stupidly not thinking ahead that I'd need #30 green for leaves on the last row. I played around with sewing thread and 2 strands worked fairly well size wise, which fits in with the above chart.
  9. Granny Square

    Question on an Instruction

    To clarify terms - the slip KNOT is how you make the initial loop on the hook, and never counts as a stitch. When you have just the initial slip knot and first loop around the hook, then make 1 chain, the loop that WAS on the hook becomes the first chain, and the loop you just pulled through is now on the hook. The loop on the hook will become part of the next stitch until you finish off at the very end, and will never be something you need to count as a stitch in your pattern. The slip stitch to join the round doesn't count as a stitch by itself, it will end up being the base for what comes next. For the rest of it...I only watched to part way thru round 3 but I noticed it gives you the written directions for the round at the same time she's working it. For round 3 (and possibly other rounds) , it looks like the directions are given in stages (in other words, the complete written instructions for round 3 aren't shown all at once). I strongly suggest watching the video from beginning to end, stopping it when a new written instruction pops up and writing the instruction down. This will probably answer the rest of your questions. Also, you'd probably not need to look at the video again, unless something you wrote down didn't make sense to you (like possibly the joining, which can be a little mind bending the first time you do it). The joining is done in the last round. At about 12:30 into the video (I skimmed ahead) she's showing a lot of motifs joined, and as she's working on the last round of the current motif she's attaching it to the fabric already joined together. So for you just starting, you'll make motif #1 complete, since there's nothing to join it to yet. For motif #2, you will be joining 1 side to motif #1 as you complete the last round of round 2 (by working on motif 2 for a bit, then 'reaching over' to join to Motif #1 in a specific spot, then reaching back to Motif 2 and working a bit, and so on. As you progress you will be joining a varying number of sides together in this way.
  10. Granny Square

    PJ-Partay- 18" doll Image INTENSE

    OOOPS!! I'm sorry, it was only a 2 stitch repeat and I managed to mess up both of them. (apparently added the row # "2" to the first stitch, and missed typing "DEC" on the second). (headslap) Just follow the direction that Darski wrote and ignore the 'braille warning' after. It's just alternating 1 plain HDC with 1 HDC decrease. At least the hairy yarn is only 3 little rows...hang in there! Your Granddaughter will be thrilled I'm sure..
  11. Granny Square

    PJ-Partay- 18" doll Image INTENSE

    When working with eyelash yarn it's really hard to see the stitches (even more with eyelash held doubled as it is here, I imagine). I think the Braille comment was a humorous warning to convey that you'll be 'feeling' your way to make your stitches as much as seeing. The instruction is the first part - I'd read it as '*2 HDC in 1, 1 HDC in next; repeat around the sole'.
  12. Granny Square

    Help Decreasing??

    It looks 'not wrong' to me, assuming the total stitch count is correct. You're going to get some degree of pucker like that. Really the only decreases I know (to turn two stitches into one) is (1) making half a stitch in 1 stitch, half a stitch in the next stitch, then pulling thru the remaining 3 loops, or (2) skipping a stitch, which would leave a little hole. Is the decrease now done all in 1 row? If so, and assuming it won't affect the fit on the dog, possibly spreading the total # of the increases over 2 rows, maybe 1/3 on the penultimate round and 2/3 on the last round might smooth the pucker (at least it's not a huge number of stitches to rip out and experiment with). Edit--if you spread the decreases over 2 rows, you'd want to stagger them, not put one decrease on top of the other. Another thought that occurred to me when I was typing the first paragraph...maybe skipping a stitch instead of making 2 into 1 might improve the pucker--it would remove a little bit of fabric, so the stitches on either side of the skipped stitch would be shoved closer together. You'd have little holes, but it might be a smoother transition/less puckery, and the holes could be a design feature. If you sew, it would be like 'grading the seam', sort of (taking extra fabric out of a seam to make something lay flatter). Normally you'd want to distribute increases or decreases evenly around, unless you need more or less fabric in 1 spot (bustline for example). I'm not sure of the math for your project, but if you need to decrease 1/5th of the stitches, what you typed would be right I'm guessing you meant 'dec' instead of 'dc'--so over 5 stitches, the 4th & 5th are combined into 1. Or if you want to try to skip a stitch instead, sc 4, skip 1.
  13. Granny Square

    Chain help

    Welcome to the 'ville! Do you have a pattern in mind, or are you thinking of just making a 'plain stitch' blanket, all DC for example? The thing is, everybody has a slightly different stitch tension so that's 1 variable, and another variable is which yarn weight you are thinking of using, and with what hook. One neat trick with crochet is that you can make a chain a little longer than you think you need, turn and work back, and stop where it 'looks right' or when you get the count the pattern calls for. I always count chains, but if it's over 100 I'll throw in a few more just in case...so irritating to work back across 100+ chains and finding yourself 1 short. Crochet will not unravel from the tail end, but you can pick out the chain with not too much trouble. Here is a guide for different sized baby blankets (receiving, swaddle, crib) https://www.care.com/c/stories/4538/how-to-pick-the-right-baby-blanket-size/ I don't have any kids so don't know what size is most useful, but when I make baby blankets for gits I make them crib blanket size.
  14. Granny Square

    Ears of DMC crochet pig cushion

    Welcome to the 'ville! The first part (before 'make 16 ch) is a general description - you will be working in the round, in a spiral (meaning, you don't end the round with a slip stitch and chain up to start the next round, which is why it suggests to mark the first stitch somehow - you won't be able to tell otherwise. Or, since this isn't horribly critical to exactly match the end of a round for a pig ear (as it might be for colorwork or stitch patterns), you could use the yarn tail as a rough indicator. However, you won't be working in a flat circle, you will be working in an oval without increasing, and the chain will form the center of the oval--the ear will be shaped like a flat sack. The chain will end up being the top of the ear, and subsequent rounds will form the front and back of the ear. There are 3 ways to stitch into a chain: (1) into the back bump (I recommend NOT using this method for an oval (2) with the chain side facing you, into the top loop, which leaves 2 free loops (3) with chain side facing, into the top loop and the back bump which leaves 1 free loop. The second 2 methods will create a better tension to work with when working the second half of the oval. You will be working into the chain as you usually would if you were working a flat piece for the first half of the oval. Ch 16, skip first ch and DC across the remaining chains, to make 15 DC across. Now for the 'different' part. You have either 1 or 2 unused loops of the chain. Where it says 'working along the opposite edge of the starting chain', you will be inserting the hook under all of the unused loops of the to work another 15 stitches back to the starting point (the yarn tail end). Then, you just keep working round and round (it gets less fiddly after the first couple of rounds).
  15. Granny Square

    help to figure how much more yarn

    The ounces thing would work reasonably well on something simpler - example, a (not bias) rectangular 1 color blanket that will be 4x6', you're working across the 4' side and have made 2' so far and have used 5 ounces. So 1/3 of the total is 5 ounces, so you need twice that to finish so another 10 ounces. Or with not that much more math, say the blanket is even stripes of multiple colors of the same yarn type and brand repeating for example. Your blanket just has too many variables going on I'm afraid. Also trying to gently steer you away from the scale-weight thing because I've seen on other forums where people have tried to use it in ways that don't make sense, like wondering why they ran short using the same scale-weight of heavy, dense cotton for a pattern they previously worked up in fluffy light something-else of the same wraps-per-inch yarn class. I know that you weren't going there, but the same yardage of same wpi class stuff will always be the right answer.
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