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Granny Square

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About Granny Square

A Few Things About Me

  • Ravelry ID
  • Location
    Pacific Northwest
  • Hobbies
    Crochet, Sewing
  • Occupation
    Retired
  • Favorite hook type
    Aluminum
    Steel
  • Favorite projects
    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  • Crocheting since...
    1970's Granny Square era ;)

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  1. Welcome to the 'ville! It would be easier and faster to rip and start over. You can't rip/unravel from the starting edge. I've been crocheting for decades, and would rip without question back to the very beginning. The only thing I can think of, if you knit, is cut the bulky yarn off close to the thinner yarn start, carefully pick out the little bulky bits that remain, carefully put the underside loops of the thinner yarn on a cabled knitting needle long enough to accommodate the stitches, and 'bind them off' with a length of the thinner yarn. BUT! That is a highly tricky maneuver worthy of one of those tasks given to Hercules, and I'm not seriously suggesting that a beginner attempt it. I knit, and could probably pull it off, but would still rather rip back to the beginning and start over. (it's one of those "one false move and fugetaboutit" things)
  2. In your top pic, where the bottom strand is going across some DCs - I normally try to follow the strand of yarn that makes up the DC stitch, in other words up and down, not across, more like what you did in the top strand of the bottom pic (except without the knot of course). Here's a swatch I just whipped up (sorry photo's so big), 'weaving in' red yarn of the same weight, just weaving down 1 dc and up the next for 4 stitches, with the red yarn 'as is' (not split plied), you can see the red ends where I came in and out of that top row. Obviously I'd be doing this for real in all the same color yarn(! ) and for a greater distance, and probably more directions. One side looks better than the other but even so, if it were the same color, you probably wouldn't notice) Edited to add - Just in case it wasn't obvious, I'd have woven the very ends in much more securely, not just snip them off at the point they exit the fabric in the photo -- usually by turning and sort of wiggling the needle so I'm catching strands here, and there, and turning back (after securing a loop) back the way I came, partly thru the same thread I was weaving in as well as other stitches; seriously, I wait to the very end to weave because I have to cut it out, I can't un-pick it.
  3. 4 to 5 stitches? That's not nearly enough, I'm sorry to say. You should leave at least 6" to weave in, and weave in multiple directions, and I also sometimes split the plies to weave it in even more directions, including weaving part way, anchoring it around a loop, and coming back the way I came, never weaving only under stitches but into the plies of stitches. And don't ever tie knots and crochet over your ends as your only security. (I'm a little overly cautious after the first blanket I made did what yours is doing, I didn't know better at the time). The best/easiest thing you can do now is take some matching sewing thread and darn the holes the best you can, or if you have yarn leftovers split the plies (like if it's 4 ply yarn , split it in 2 two-ply sections) and use that to darn the holes.
  4. Hi, I think we met on another thread here. Totally still have not crocheted gloves (yet), but have knit a couple sets of fingerless gloves that had a gusset & partial thumb, but it wasn't pieced like this. Shouldn't you have continued the seam down to the spot where the palm piece "indents" for the gusset & thumb? Meaning, I have 1.5" or so from the base of my first finger to the top of my thumb, which coincides with the area at the side of the hand I'm trying to describe . There is no gusset piece in your photo--that's what would go in the indented area, and the thumb (looks like it) would be sewn to the gusset on the palm side and the open area of the back of the hand. I hope you aren't missing part of the pattern!
  5. Welcome to the 'ville! Thread motifs are rarely sewn together (I'm a threadie, I mostly make thread items). Actually, I'm surprised if you used a thread motif pattern, it didn't tell you how to join them to make a bedspread or tablecloth or whatever. When you make your next motif, you 'join as you go', if the project is x motifs you don't make x motifs and sew them up. Take a look a youtube, there are a lot of ways to "JAYG", but for these I'd join at the red spots I've marked below. The simplest way to do this is--the spots I've marked are all chain loops. In the middle of a chain loop in the last round of the next motif you are currently making, "reach over" and slip stitch into the corresponding spot on a finished motif, complete the chain loop and come back to the motif you are finishing and proceed to the next chain loop, repeat.
  6. Welcome to the 'ville! I'm a seasoned crocheter, but a so-so knitter Let's break it down & count stitches: The instructions say "Row 3: ch 1, turn; hdc in next 15-19-23 sts, {hdc 2) in next st, (hdc in next 9 sts, {hdc 2} in next st) 3 times, hdc in next 14-18-22 sts, hdc next 2 sts together (65-73-81)" ch 1, turn; 0 hdc in next 15-19-23 sts, 15 sts made and used (hdc 2) in next st, 2 made, 1 used--I think the bracket was meant to be a left parenthesis, since there's no end bracket (hdc in next 9 sts, {hdc 2} in next st) 3 times, 1 repeat is 11 sts and uses 10, times 3 repeats is 33 stitches made and 30 used hdc in next 14-18-22 sts, 14 sts made and used hdc next 2 sts together (65-73-81) 1 stitch made, 2 used So...15 + 2 + 33 + 14 +1 = 65 stitches made. 15 + 1 +30 +14 +2 = 62 stitches used. Well darn, so close- I have the right # made but I have a stitch from the prior row left over (please check my math, I did a couple of times but sometimes it takes another set of eyeballs.) Worst case, just don't make that last decrease and your stitch count will work out...crochet is more forgiving fudge-wise than knit.
  7. Granny Square

    Tiffany

    Welcome to the 'ville! You can put a LOT of stitches into 1 stitch, example shell stitches are (usually) an odd number of stitches (3 or greater), into 1 stitch. So you made a sc in a stitch in the row below; now chain, and sc in the same stitch again. The chain will 'float in the air' between the 2 sc stitches you just made, it will make a sort of eyelet, lacy look.
  8. Granny Square

    Lauryn

    Welcome to the 'ville! Can you post a pic? Could be a lot of things without seeing it, possibly more stuffing?
  9. "I THINK what you're saying is what I will end up doing in rows 8-13 is repeating Row3, 4, and 5 five times?" No; look at the math. Row 3, 4, 5 = 3 rows. 8, 9,10, 11,12, 13 = 6 rows, not 5. Theoretically you could follow the instructions for 3, 4, 5 twice in the span of 6 rows, but that is not what the pattern said--don't overthink, don't assume--follow the words of the pattern in their plainest, most literal meaning; that line only mentioned repeating row 4, which is 1 row of instructions, it did not say anything about repeating row 3 or row 5, so there is no reason to assume that it meant that. The pattern said "R8-13: repeat row 4". This means: row 8: follow the instructions for row 4, working stitches into row 7. row 9: follow the instructions for row 4, working stitches into row 8. row 10: follow the instructions for row 4, working stitches into row 9. row 11: follow the instructions for row 4, working stitches into row 10. row 12: follow the instructions for row 4, working stitches into row 11. row 13: follow the instructions for row 4, working stitches into row 12. (see what I meant earlier about the way the pattern worded it, it saved a lot of typing ?) edit, oops, posted at the same time as BGS again.
  10. I just looked (again) on Herrschners' site, it is (still) no longer offered - that would be the best place to inquire about it. (the original post on this thread is 15 years old) I also looked on Ravelry and didn't find anything close there, either.
  11. Welcome to the 'ville! When in doubt, look at the pattern photo. DC, ch1, DC is in the 'v stitch' family (x stitches, y chains, x stitches into 1 stitch--x and y can be the same number). Making rows of V stitches is a common thing, and usually you make a V stitch into the chain space of the V stitch in the row below. It just occurred to me by "same holes for 5 rows???" , are you thinking you are to be working rows 8 -13 all into row 3? No. When a pattern says something like 'repeat row x', and you way beyond row x, it just means to follow the instructions contained in row x, which will create new rows way beyond the original row x. It's sort of a lazy, um efficient way for the designer to save a little typing There are times when a pattern will tell you to reach down a few rows below your current row, but it will clearly and specifically say that--this pattern is not saying that.
  12. Welcome to the 'ville! Have you ever done a DC 2 together? Or a cluster of several stitches into 1? A cluster and a "x together" are almost identical, except a cluster is several partial new stitches made into 1 stitch and joined at the top, and a "x together" is 2 or more partial stitches made into 2 or more different stitches, and joined together at the top. When you do either of those things, right before the last yo and pull thru, the # of loops on your hook is the number of stitches you are joining, + 1. So this transaction has you pulling thru 5 loops, which means you are joining 4 stitches together. I think the use of [ ] versus * for the repeat is a little confusing. It says [do this and know it will be repeated because it's in brackets] twice - so read it as "*dc2together just short of the last yo and pull thru, repeat from * once more and pull thru all 5 loops".
  13. The photo looks like all dc to me (looking at the pattern photo is a good habit to get into if you have a question--this is all I had to rely on when I had no one to help me when I first learned, long before the internet). You might try googling that book, and the publisher name, there may be some errata on the publisher's site - or just assume that it was a typo and should have been dc and keep going.
  14. Agree that is telling you to something a bit unusual (but not unheard of), by having you stitch between stitches, not into the tops of stitches. Working in the round (not a spiral, but in joined rounds) you end a round by slip stitching to the first stitch of the round, chaining up for the turning chain, and then on with the pattern. If I'm guessing right, you have just joined a round by slip stitching into the top of the first stitch of the current round. Now you need to 'scoot over' to start the next round, by slip stitching between the stitch you just joined into, and the following stitch, chaining up, and proceeding around by working in the gaps between stitches. I make a lot of doilies center-out in the round - it's not terribly unusual to have to 'scoot over' to start the next round, tho I've seen in more in vintage patterns than modern ones. If you have ever not worked into the top of a stitch - working around a chain space, or the gap between stitches, isn't that much different - you just stick the hook under the chain, or into the space between 2 stitches, and the rest is the same.
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