Granny Square

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About Granny Square

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    Pacific Northwest
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    Crochet, Sewing
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  • How long have you been crocheting?
    1970's Granny Square era ;)
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    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  1. Welcome, and sorry to agree but yes, you're going to have t rip a few rounds; your ruffling is too severe to correct if you have more rounds to do, and it's too much to block out. Working from the center out needs a fairly strict ratio of diameter to circumference to lie flat.
  2. Linking so people can see the pattern. So, you have made the sole. You've made the part that covers the top of the foot, which starts at the toe and divides into 2 halves, like the photo in post 1 but there should be a left half as well, so it will look like a V. The next step is to fold in half and sew the back seam together, which is the narrow top part of the V, which is 5 or 6 depending on the size you're making. The next part will be to crochet the leg, which you notice in the directions will now be in rounds, not rows; this will be around the inside part of the V. The outside will be where you eventually attach the sole to the rest of it. Edit, a crude sketch - the black arrows show where the back seam gets sewn together, the red circle is where you will be working in the round for the leg.
  3. PS forgot to say welcome to the 'ville!
  4. Try this program Choose the XL size and the 1:1 ratio. Here's a list of mattress sizes Do a swatch to get your stitch gauge, example the biggest graph is 120 stitches wide - do a swatch say 20 stitches wide, and your pic will be 6x that size. I don't think you are going to find something that will get you the fill width of a mattress top, but you can put the graphed pic in the center of a bigger plot with wide borders. Example, if your gauge is 4 stitches per inch (not unreasonable), 120/4 is 30"; a twin mattress is 39 inches wide. You don't want the pic spilling over the sides, you'd want it just at the top of the bed, so that would be perfect. And usually, a design on a bedspread would be centered left and right, and centered top to bottom of the area between the bottom of the pillow to the foot of the bed.
  5. Squinting at your photo, I am counting 39 stitches (I might be off a couple). But after 10 rows, you should have 60, so you've missed some increases somewhere. For the spacing out, you could do something like moving the increases over 3 stitches each round. The idea is just to keep them from stacking on top of each other. Remember if you do that, you'll have to figure where that count will take you from the fist stitch. It also might not hurt, if you're having trouble spotting where the increases are, to put a stitch marker in each increase; you can buy stitch markers, but I like to use bobby pins because they're cheap, don't snag and don't easily fall out. You could use safety pins or safety pins as well.
  6. Nah, actually this sort of question gets asked a lot (keeping circles flat). There's a formula that works for most people to make a flat circle. For SC, start with 6 stitches and increase 6 sts each round. For HDC it's 8 or 9 stitches, for DC it's 12. More increases for the taller stitches to keep the ratio of diameter to circumference the same. I say most people because some have taller stitch tensions than others, which makes a difference if you are working in the round. When you say curling, is it ruffling, or is it curling up (cupping)? If it is cupping sort of close to round 22, I wouldn't worry because that's close to where you are going to be decreasing stitches anyway. If it's ruffling, or severely cupping well before round 22, then you may have to make adjustments. Cupping = diameter is too great for the circumference. You'll need to add more increases. Some patterns you could also make shorter stitches, but this is already SC... Ruffling = diameter is too small for the circumference. You'll need to subtract some increases - maybe make a round (or more, scattered) without them. Some patterns you could make taller stitches, but that works better if you're working DC (or better, a DC lacy patten) and throw in a round of triples, not as noticeable.
  7. Hi Darski, I don't speak French at all (but from my High School Spanish I could figure out your answer). I think the word patron is being translated as boss. So, she wants to know how to get the pattern (I think). Perhaps she doesn't realize that the pattern is there, and she was looking for a PDF or link? I know the new forum software acts differently than before when you hit the 'return' key; the old software acted like a single space, the new one acts as a double space, so all of the paragraphs in your patterns are now separated by multiple blank lines, not just one, and it looks a little odd now. To France Grimard: There is no link -- Il n'y a pas de lien The pattern is given in the first post of this thread - Le motif est donné dans le premier article de ce fil
  8. The forum changed it's software platform recently, and a lot of things changed. At the very top, you can see a menu bar that says browse - activity - help Under activity>my activity streams, you can look at "threads I started", as well as "threads I follow" and "people I follow" and other things. You'll only see "Reply" in the box when you are actually creating a post yourself.
  9. Since it's charted, and the chart looks like a bear--I'm afraid you must have made some color change errors along the way. In the last pic it's evident that there are some blocks in the heart area that aren't colored correctly. The left leg and foot look right (without counting blocks), but I think you've erred in some color changes around the heart (and maybe elsewhere-it's a little hard to see the contrast between the light blue and the variegated background). I would go back and line up your chart with your blanket and carefully count/compare the blocks on the pattern with your blanket. I've worked from a lot of charts, and what I've found works best for me is to clip a sheet of paper over the part of the pattern beyond the row I'm working on, so the pattern on my project matches the portion of the chart I can see, except the top row exposed on the pattern that I'm adding to what I've already done. I used to put a ruler or paper under the chart row I was working on, so I couldn't see the relationship of what I'd already done, to what I needed to do - and I'd make errors occasionally without realizing it because I couldn't SEE that the mistake didn't line up with the existing part below. Plus, it's easier to count by seeing what's below IMO. Not that I still don't make errors, but covering the 'beyond' part of the pattern helped me catch errors a lot sooner. It's always a good idea to stop and 'admire' your work every couple of rows; I know sometimes we get into a zone and just 'go', but stopping and checking frequently avoids ripping 1 or 2 rows versus 10 or 20 sometimes. Don't feel bad, I often don't take my own advice and have had ripped many rows, on many projects by not paying attention.
  10. The photo looks like its spread over a double or queen bed already, so the size of the motif made up is really a perfect size as is. You wouldn't want the motif to spread all across the whole bedspread (spilling over the sides of the bed), you'd want it to be centered left and right across just the top of the mattress, and placed below center vertically to make room for the pillow area. Make a swatch with the yarn you want to use (at least 5" square) and see how many stitches per inch you measure (including inch fractions). I would enlarge the bedspread by adding to each side, and top and bottom in the plain color, positioning the motif where it needs to be as I described above. Your motif is rougly 100x100, so you want to figure out how big the motif will be at your gauge per inch, and calculate (at your gauge) how many 'blank' stitches to add left and right and bottom, and more at the top (pillow area) to achieve queen bedspread size. Here's a list of bedspread sizes So a queen bedspread is 102x120. If the requestor would use it with a bedskirt, you can make it as a comforter size 92x96. Edit-for centering purposes, the top of the mattress is 60x80.
  11. If I were doing this (and I knit a lot of socks for myself), I wouldn't make it like a "real" sock with a "real" heel, because the loop stitches (and the project in general) would be way easier NOT worked that way. Plus I think the loops would look better in rows (to look like how chin whiskers might grow, not a sock heel). BUT, I think you could work it all in the round, but not in a spiral. You could still follow the Family Circle pattern for shaping increases for the toe, starting at the bottom, just chain twice as many, and join and TURN (to keep it from spiraling) - the 'seam' (turning point) will be at the back of the sock leg. You will need bobbins for the white, if I'm doing this in my head correctly; the pink should be near where you need to pick it up after you turn, but you'll need 2 whites (skein & bobbin) since you are turning in the middle of the white span. The only disadvantage I can think of is that it will be more awkward to sew on the embellishments, but not impossible. You'd have a seam to sew at the bottom of the foot. Actually, I think I'd do that last, because being able to reach thru either end of the stocking may make it easier to sew the face bits on.
  12. I don't have the book either, but here is what Winston the Aardvark looks like I'm not sure, if you are not a member of Ravelry, if you can see members' projects and their comments. (One person named hers Aarrthur, which I thought was funny). There were some comments about being confused about the nostrils and connecting the ears, but they were able to 'wing' it, and most said the pattern was easy (for presumably not beginner crocheters). This appears to be a UK book, so UK DC is US SC - just pointing this out in case you aren't in the US. oops...Hi Magic!
  13. I'm finding the pattern at Mary Maxim, but not finding it on Ravelry to see if anyone has made it and made comments about ruffling. I've not made it, so can't say...but I have made lots of round doilies that ruffled at some point but 'healed' themselves by the end (I only had one that didn't). I'd keep going and see what happens. The way I 'fixed' the doily that didn't heal itself was switch to taller stitches...maybe you could do this at a color change to camouflage it (design feature...?.) But I'd work more rounds first.
  14. Sounds like you are making a crossed stitch for a cable effect. It's sort of awkward and counter intuitive, but you yarn over, reach back behind your current spot and work a post over the last complete stitch. So the top of this new stitch will be 1 stitch to the left of the 'stitch last worked', but its body will be lying across the top of it. Aaaand, Hi Magic!