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Granny Square

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About Granny Square

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A Few Things About Me

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  • Location
    Pacific Northwest
  • Hobbies
    Crochet, Sewing
  • Occupation
  • Favorite hook type
  • Favorite projects
    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  • Crocheting since...
    1970's Granny Square era ;)

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  1. My mind went to toy animals first, but you probably mean real critters, right? I've found lots of free patterns for coats for small dogs, here are a few https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/well-dressed-dog-coat https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dog-coat-13 https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dog-coat-16 https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/textured-dog-coat https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cowl-neck-dog-coat https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dog-coat-crochet https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/posh-pooch-dog-coat https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/granny-square-dog-coat-2 https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cabled-dog-sweater-6 https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-casual-friday-dog-sweater https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/crocheted-dog-sweater the description looks like more of a recipe to tweak to fit your dog
  2. He's wonderful! Love his curly tail.
  3. You're welcome, sometimes it just takes a second set of eyes to look at something a different way
  4. You can keep those, (and Peeps) but stay away from my foil covered DARK chocolate Hershey's eggs...yumm.
  5. Have you used Caron Simply Soft? I'm wearing a pullover sweater made of that right now as a matter of fact. It is acrylic, I don't consider it scratchy but then RHSS doesn't bother me either, so...
  6. Think back to algebra class, where (6x1) + (6x2) = 18 You start with 12. Into 6 of those 12 you put 1 stitch each (6 stitches). Into the remaining 6 you put 2 stitches each (12 stitches).
  7. Beautiful! I've never seen candy carrots before ...I've heard of leaving out cookies for Santa Clause, are you supposed to leave carrots for the Easter Bunny??
  8. Oooh, that make more sense. The pattern would have been much clearer if it said: *1 dc, decrease; repeat from * 7 times , 35 dc (or, dc to end of round). This would 'use' 21 stitches (1+2=3 for each repeat, times 7), plus 35 dc....21+ 35 = 56, but leave you with 49. The pattern REALLY needed that asterisk, I was taking it literally, as in: 1 dc, 7 decreases in a row, which would use 15 not 21 stitches for that portion. Since the OP mentioned she had 56 stitches at the start of the row, I guessed the end of each row gave stitch count, which is why I mis-read the 35 at the end of the row, my bad.
  9. Welcome to the 'ville! I'm befuddled too. If you end a row with 56 stitches (I assume that # agrees with the # of stitches your pattern says you should have at that point), and you decrease 7 times and end up with 35 stitches, that doesn't make sense if a decrease=combine 2 stitches into 1. BUT...some interesting math...56 minus 35 = 21, which is a multiple of 7 (as are 56 and 35, as well). If a decrease is defined as getting rid of 3 stitches for each decrease (like skip 3, or DC4together), that would make sense. But then the next 2 rows don't make sense. Is this a free pattern on the 'net, if so could you give us a link?. It might help shed some light.
  10. Happy to help, glad all that made sense. Enjoy your project!
  11. Oh my goodness, I didn't realize you'd painted those. They are amazing! Thanks for cheering us up in these scary times.
  12. What a gorgeous doily, actually this was on my lengthy list of doily favorites I've tagged on Ravelry. I'm going to post a link where one can download the pattern, you should delete the pdf from your post as it violates forum rules, even tho it's a free pattern. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lilla-7 I was expecting a diagrammed pattern, I think all of the Russian patterns I've seen are diagrammed (and diagrams are so easy to follow versus written ones!). It's OK to post a row or 2 of a pattern tho, so: Row 18: (SLST, CH 1, 3 SC) in first space, (SC, Beginning SPLIT-DTR, SC) in next space, *3 SC in next space, (SC, SPLIT-DTR, SC) in next space* around. Join. [28 SPLIT-DTR, 140 SC] Stitch definitions for stitches that are a bit uncommon from the above: Beginning SPLIT-DTR: Holding back the last loop of both stitches, DTR from top to bottom through center of marked FP-SPLIT-DC, skip 1 FP-SPLIT-DC, DTR from bottom to top through center of next FP-SPLIT-DC, yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook. SPLIT-DTR: Holding back the last loop of both stitches, DTR from top to bottom through center of the same FP-SPLIT-DC as the second leg of last SPLIT-DTR, skip 1 FP-SPLIT-DC, DTR from bottom to top through center of next FP-SPLIT-DC, yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook. FP-SPLIT-DC: Holding back the last loop of both stitches, FP-DC around the same TR as the second leg of the last FP-SPLIT-DC made, then FP-DC around next TR, yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook. FPDC: Front post DC Just in general, a normal cluster is made into 1 stitch, by partially completing some number of stitches, and then completing all the stitches in 1 final yarn over and pull-thru. A 'split' anything is a cluster of at least 2 stitches, made into 2 different stitches, like this /.\ * where you make the first part of the cluster into (usually) 1 stitch, possibly skipping some stitches, and make the second part of the cluster in a second stitch and then connect the 2 halves of the cluster. The 'split' and 'FP' was the only things that stood out to me as possibly out of the ordinary. I don't have a way of making a video, but both front post and back post stitches, as well as split clusters, have videos on Youtube that might not be 100% identical to this pattern, but hopefully help with the concept. *my 'diagram' skipped 1 stitch, but the pattern skips more - I did that so the 2 stitches would sort of look joined at the top)
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