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Granny Square

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About Granny Square

A Few Things About Me

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    Pacific Northwest
  • Hobbies
    Crochet, Sewing
  • Occupation
    Retired
  • Favorite hook type
    Aluminum
    Steel
  • Favorite projects
    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  • Crocheting since...
    1970's Granny Square era ;)

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  1. The second photo looks great to me, it's elegant as is without a border. Probably the most iconic striped manufactured blankets don't have borders, google 'Pendleton striped blanket'. It's up to you, just be careful working up the sides as that is the part that will be most likely keep it from looking as nice as it looks now.
  2. Funny, I just replied to another 'border' question, and I'm going to say the same thing: Less is more--I would leave it as it is, it looks very nice and complete right now, AND borders on stripes is a bad idea, because when you stitch into the sides of stitches it will not look the same (not as even) as when you stitch into the tops of stitches (or into the under-chains). (In other words, if you stitched around in the light purple, the stitches into the dark purple are going to look messy on the sides.) Since this is a very plain geometric pattern, I'd pick a very plain border to compliment it. If I HAD to add a border to this, I'd make the first row an unusual way: I'd first do a round in the same colors as the blanket, so a dark purple stitch goes into a dark purple stitch, light purple into light purple. (I would do this using the Tapestry method, where you work OVER the unused color, so no end weaving except at the end). Actually, just this one round done this way would give it a nice finished look all the way around, there's nothing wrong with having a striped blanket with stripes all the way to the sides. Or, because this is a very plain striped blanket, I'd go around in one of the colors after the one I described above, for about the width of 1 of the stripes. Make sure you make 3 stitches into each corner to keep it flat, for SC I like to make SC, Ch1, SC, it turns the corners more squarely, plus it's easy to see the chain where you'd want to make the next corner into. Tapestrycrochet.com is a good site if you have never done tapestry before, really it's just changing to the new color as one normally would (in the last yarn over of the last stitch of the old color), and working over the old color.
  3. A lot of blanket projects I see have added borders that are like 'lipstick on a pig' and detract rather than enhance. "Less is (usually) more". Most blankets don't need a border as said above, and if you MUST, make sure it compliments the design - example, don't put a super lacy border on a geometric design blanket. Striped blankets are IMO better left borderless, since when you work into the side of a stitch it won't look as nice/even as when you work into the top of a stitch. This goes along with what Ellie13 said, if you make the blanket center-out, you don't have any stitch sides, only stitch tops. Along with this, if you have a solid blue color blanket worked back and forth, and want a white border for example, work a round of sc in blue first - the uneven blue-on-blue is not noticeable, so the white will all go nice and evenly into blue stitch tops.
  4. Third round ended with 18 so that's what rnd 4 starts with. 4th rnd: Repeat dc1, inc 9 times (27) -- 9 increased/doubled + 9 not increased = 18+9 = 27, check. 5th rnd: Repeat dc2, inc 9 times (36) -- 18 not increased, 9 increased/doubled = 18+18 = 36 - check, notice the pattern changes at this point from 1 not-increased to 2. So the pattern adds up. I agree this isn't the usual scheme to keep a circle flat....I assume this pattern is in UK terms? The rule of thumb for UK DC to keep a flat circle is start with 6, and add 6 each round. This follows the pattern except rnds 4 & 5. which throws in repeats of 9 instead. What this does is add a row's worth of increases, but with 1 fewer rounds completed....if you'd kept with adding 6 each round, you'd have 42 in round 7, not 48... Not sure of the 'why', one possibility might be that the designer did this to keep the item flat with her stitch gauge, because everyone's stitch height gauge is a little different. What are you making? Just checking, you're sure it IS supposed to be flat, right? Example, for a hat, which usually does start with a flat circle until a certain diameter/circumference is reached, I could see subtly cramming more stitches into fewer rounds (making a dome, instead of the usual cylinder shape) to get a multi-round stitch repeat to fit and have the hat come out the right length.
  5. That is drop dead gorgeous!! I make a lot of thread doilies, but not thread clothing so far. But I have made cotton yarn tops, and yes they do stretch during wear, but alas I don't know how to stop that; my tops weren't lacy, I imagine lace would stretch even more. I just toss them in the washer and dryer at low/medium heat, and they have not shrunk smaller than the original size but 'undo' the little bit of stretching that happens when you wear them. I think I'd not put your beautiful lace in the washing machine but rather hand-wash in warm water, and maybe put in the dryer at low/medium for a short time to knock some of the water out, and lay it flat and 'block' it by patting it into shape on a flat surface to dry the rest of the way (I've used a plastic table cloth over a spare bed or the floor to "casual block' big things).
  6. You're very welcome, happy to help!
  7. Welcome to the 'ville! That jacket looks nice and warm. Did you scroll down to the last page, and take a look at the diagram? A picture is worth 1000 words here. The pattern says at the very start that it's all worked in 1 piece to the armholes, and now you've reached the armholes. Now, you need to work on the now 'disconnected' 3 pieces, one at a time, starting with the right front which is why you are leaving a lot of stitches unworked at this point (will become the 2 other pieces when you finish the first piece. Does that help? I think it could have been worded a little bit clearer. It says 'divide for armholes: next row (etc)', and IMO it should have said you are working on the right front right away, instead of casually mentioning it in the second row of the right front.
  8. Awww, he's adorable! So glad you saved his toes, they're perfect
  9. Hello again! My guess is that you would be most likely to be following the same stitch pattern as the body. Doesn't Row 2 of the sleeve shaping tell you? If not, look at the pattern photo, you should be able to tell if the stitches above and below the armpit look the same, and if it's different, it would be remiss if the pattern didn't explain to change to a different stitch pattern. From this point on, the lower back is complete, so the point where the body edges used to be are just stitches for you to work into, nothing ends there any more and there's no chaining up and turning at those old edges any more. You are now working on a different, longer cuff-to-cuff piece. This would be the green line on my diagram, you just work across the chains, and when you run out of chains just continue without interruption across the back's stitches Hopefully this works out pattern-wise if after chaining 40 for the sleeve foundation, and you work back across the sleeve to the body in the stitch pattern, the stitches on the body are 'in the right place' to just keep on going with the pattern. If stitches don't line up , the underarm point would be a good point to 'fudge' a stitch or 2 to get them to line up, no one will notice.
  10. Interesting graphic, if I'm interpreting it right the sleeves are more like really wide shoulder straps. Follow the directions word for word, don't assume you have to fasten off for example, because another pattern said to fasten off somewhere - this pattern specifically says not to fasten off at that point. "Foundation chain" doesn't mean it has to be a separate, new piece, it's just the base for the next stitches that need to be made--this is a common way to make sleeves after making the body portion-from the body's side, make a chain extending away from the body, and work back and forth across the chain to make the sleeve that is connected to the body. "Make 70 chains (Foundation chain multiple of 2)" - I think that's just an orienting description of what you are doing, and an explanation of why they chose a number divisible by 2, so your action is just "chain 70".
  11. Looks great (and oops, I overlooked that the palm side is plain netting so isn't "the same"), and I'd love to see them when they're done! There's a show-and-tell section, more people would probably see & admire them if you post over there.
  12. ^ Agree. In traditional crochet pattern-writing, and pattern reading expectations, there should have been an asterisk denoting the start of the repeat, so " *2sc in first (stitch), sc in next (stitch),repeat around " would have been the normal/more accepted way to have expressed that. They did omit the word 'stitch', but it should have been understood if all the stitches in the prior row were the same.
  13. OK, making more sense now - so those are incomplete fingers, made lengthwise; I assume each finger will be seamed if they are made flat. So if you are making 4 fingers separately, I can make a guess how these might go together. But I was dead serious about reading the entire pattern thru before going farther, I don't want you cause you extra work because you followed my guess and then have the pattern to say something else and you have to start over. I can see from the photo the front and back of the palm are made separately, flat and seamed, and the fingers look to be seamed as well. My guess is below, it is the most efficient seaming I can think of: Make 4 finger tops and 4 finger bottoms (long rectangles, probably different lengths for each finger). (Top/back of the hand side): Line up the the 4 finger tops in the order the pattern tells you, work across the palm ends (short side) of the fingers in the right order to connect them (so you have a solid line of crochet [top of the hand] with 4 finger 'streamers' hanging below). Then you continue working across the width of the top of the hand as it tells you, to the end of the cuff. (Palm side): same as top side. (there will be some instruction about the thumb front/back that I'm omitting here, the thumb requires more/different shaping 'stuff' that I won't try to guess at, but the pattern should explain) Put the 2 pieces together, probably right sides together so the ugly side of the seam is on the inside, and as invisibly as possible sew 1 long seam from 1 bottom edge of the cuff, up one side of the hand, up and down each of the fingers and the thumb, ending at the opposite end of the cuff. If I were making these, I'd probably try to mitigate the thickness of the seam by using matching sewing thread--you wouldn't want to crochet a bulky seam on gloves. You might want to check out how to sew a 'mattress stitch seam, it is fairly invisible and doesn't add bulk.
  14. Granny Square

    Allison

    I wonder if it means 'over' the next chain space, so you'd have a little 2 row 'ladder' going on. So you are 'using' the chain space (sort of) by "filling up" the space it spans, but nothing is touching vertically. That's the only thing that makes sense to me (or my imagination, any way).
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