Granny Square

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About Granny Square

  • Rank
    Villager

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  • Ravelry ID
    Granny-Square
  • Location
    Pacific Northwest
  • Interests
    Crochet, Sewing
  • Occupation
    Semi-retired
  • How long have you been crocheting?
    1970's Granny Square era ;)
  • Favorite things to crochet
    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  1. I just remembered this...check this out, from a 1847 crochet book (by Eleanor Riego de la Branchadiere. I'm sure by the year this is out of copyright so OK to post If you're interested, its in the AntiquePatternLibrary site, if you do a search on the catalog page on "instructions and crochet terms" you'll find it.
  2. What a great idea! Very cool
  3. That is so sweet! Well done!
  4. I was thinking of those little skeins, I just looked them up - slightly less than 9 yards. Wouldn't be that hard to unravel; I'd straighten out the 9 yards (would cross a 10' bedroom 3 times), then fold a piece of paper into a skinny 'stick' shape for a bobbin, pull 1 or 2 threads (whatever you'd want to hold together to work with) off and wrap around the bobbin. Might be easier if you had a second person to help, but do-able solo. Skeins like this http://www.embroidery.com/DMC-Cotton.ec
  5. Yep, the one I posted was titled Magic Potholder, but I've seen several versions of the pattern. I thought the one I picked had some clear photos. Picture of elf https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/santa--elf-hot-pads
  6. Mary Jo, you could probably use the row counts on your pattern, but work it flat. You could still start in the middle; just make the hat/pompom side "up" and the face/beard side "down". Starting in the middle (IMO) helped me keep mine square, since I wasn't following a pattern just eyeballing where the colors should change. My flat pic photo has an odd perspective, it really is square.
  7. You should use the same yarn weight group, but you don't need the exact brand. If it doesn't give the weight on the pattern, you can usually find out by googling it, unless it's a vintage yarn. Even then, the same weight/different brand can vary a bit, because the weight class is a range (example worsted/medium/US#4 weight spans 9-12 WPI. Link to WPI info https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarn_weight
  8. Another vote for flat!
  9. He's cute! what stitch did you use for the 'fur' on the hat, it makes me think of the whipped cream from a can, but it's perfect for this!
  10. I've not made THIS one, but I knit one a couple years ago in aran weight with the same look as this one (for me) and I love it. I hate drafty necklines, this is nice and cozy and doesn't strangle like a turtleneck (I don't mind turtlenecks but I know some can't stand them). The designer is "The Crochet Dude" if you've seen his hooks and other items. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/saugatuck-winter PS welcome to the 'ville!
  11. Try doing some googling; I'm reading that it is a browser hijacker, similar to a virus but it can be removed. Here is one site that explains it, it started getting over my head and thought you should be the one to figure it out. What virus protection are you using? You might want to chew them out or at least ask them about it (we did that once a few years ago, got a bug, they fixed it and extended our expiration date for our inconvenience--we use Trendmicro. https://howtoremove.guide/what-is-cloudfront-net-virus/
  12. It said to attach yarn in a stitch, chain 3, then treble in the same stitch. The chain 3 normally takes the place of a stitch/counts as a stitch, so that puts 2 (functional) stitches into 1 stitch, therefore an increase. Actually I think I was wondering why it said to 'reattach the yarn, chain 3' in the first place, because you were just skipping stitches and the yarn should have still been on the hook and you should have just been able to make a treble there after skipping. No excuse for my missing the stitch in the same spot though, sorry if I confused you and I'm glad that Redrosesdz straightened out the stitch miscounts. Hope all is OK now?
  13. Embroidery thread? It's meant to split into plies, so maybe use 1 or 2 plies? It's pretty soft/limp.
  14. Now I see I missed two extra stitches across the back where the increases were made, sorry. " with WS facing miss 24 sts, rejoin yarn in next st, 3 ch, 1 tr in first st, 1 tr in each of next 38 sts, 2 tr in next st, turn (42 sts) What I missed is that there are 2 increases here made into 2 stitches I hadn't counted before -- so there are 40 stitches across the back before you started this (2 now with increases at each end, and 38 between them, new total 42 in the back.) Question--you didn't mention how many stitches you did on the first front before skipping 24 for the first sleeve, and I assumed it was the same number as the second front (21), since I misread and assumed that you were starting with 38 not 40 across the back, and also assumed that the 2 fronts matched, and that all added up to 128. Now that I realize I missed 2 back stitches, the number of stitches has to have been 19 (not 21) for the first front--which is odd, because I'd think the fronts should have the same number of stitches. (Unless there's a button band to be added later on that side?) To have had 128 stitches before starting the current row, you'd have had to have them distributed as 19 (front) + 24 (sleeve) + 40 (back) +24 (sleeve) +21 (front). Now, this current row adds 2 stitches (1 on each side of the back), so you should have 130 minus 48 for the sleeves, so 82 remaining around the back and fronts. So, I hope you see what I'm trying to reconcile here, and how you can do a sanity check on how you should have had enough stitches if you started with 128. Are the front, back and sleeve counts before and after as I'm counting them? Hi Redroses, we were typing together (again). Yeah, I missed the stitches the increases went into. But as you see above, that takes away from the other front, if you are starting with 128.