Granny Square

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About Granny Square

  • Rank
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  • Ravelry ID
    Granny-Square
  • Location
    Pacific Northwest
  • Interests
    Crochet, Sewing
  • Occupation
    Semi-retired
  • How long have you been crocheting?
    1970's Granny Square era ;)
  • Favorite things to crochet
    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  1. I was going to suggest heat if acrylic, but it looks like Magiccrochetfan's links beat me to it. I wonder if playing with degrees of lesser heat would give results a little less telephone-cord-looking; or perhaps wrapping it a little less close together on the needle, or bigger diameter needles. Also, for hair I think I'd pick fingering weight to start with, or perhaps unplying the heavier yarn after heating it.
  2. Awww!
  3. You're welcome! Hope it works out
  4. Luv Lam Lam!
  5. I agree, I was debating between SC or HDC but couldn't quite tell. It looks like there's a few stitches coming undone in your last photo, that would be a good idea to test which stitch you were making. Take a good look at the edge to make sure that you finish that edge by putting the last stitch in the same relative position as you did 2 rows down, so you maintain the same stitch count when you continue. By the way, both Magiccrochetfan and I are 'speaking' in US terms, in case you are in the UK or a place where they use those terms, US SC= UK DC, and US HDC = UK half treble.
  6. I couldn't find anything exactly the same, but if you are up to improvising your own pattern here's a tutorial on the diamond trellis in general (without bobbles) https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/diamond-trellis-stitch-video-tutorial A hat that uses a similar pattern, again no bobbles - this is pretty, I like the way the top looks, but this is already in the round and a headband would just be the brim of the hat https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/diamond-ridges To make the headband you should be able to loosely chain the number of DCs it says you should have when you begin working without the increases, join the chain into a ring, make a DC into each chain, then the next row start the post stitches into that base of DCs. I think you might be able add a bobble after you have finished the bottom V part, and are working the first row of the ^ part, you work a bobble around the post of the middle stitch in the row below: it should center it in the diamond. This makes sense in my head, anyway...
  7. Guessing-could it be SC between stitches rather than into the tops of stitches? So, the stitch is a little more elongated than normal? I also think it might be upside down (bottom of photo is the last row worked), it appears that the bottom border between red and white that the first row of red reached over the white, also above that it looks like the first row of white reached over the red...
  8. I agree with thread; really you don't want to use any yarn thicker than fingering weight using crochet for a table cover. And, it wouldn't 'behave' as nicely as thread or a woven fabric tablecloth. For a rectangle, I'd suggest finding a tablecloth or thread bedspread motif pattern, which are either square or round that you can connect (usually "as you go" so you don't have to do any sewing) into the size and shape you need. There's a bunch of vintage patterns here (listing of categories - look at bedspreads, runners, tablecloths) and here (listing by author or publisher - do a search [control f] on the same categories as previous]. Some of the motifs connect "as is", some non-square connect partly by a filler motif. The advantage of motifs is that if you make a few and realize you will burn out before making a whole tablecloth, you can turn it it into a runner. I'd be assembling the motifs with that in mind--I'm a threadie and wouldn't attempt a dining-table size tablecloth (old fingers' stamina and boredom-wise), but have done many 2' or so round dining table centerpieces.
  9. What comes to mind is a typo for 'in st' (in stitch, but then should clear about which stitch is meant), or maybe a typo for inc (increase)? Or, is there an area in the pattern that defines stitches? A designer can name a sequence of stitches anything they want, like "Fred", which doesn't mean anything outside of that one pattern, but serves as a shorthand (repeat Fred 3 times, then sc to end for example). Maybe they named a stitch sequence 'inst', and there are 2 sc and 3 sc versions of it in the pattern (like a cluster for example). I'm just throwing out possibilities, but "3 sc inst" doesn't mean anything without more context. 3 sc instruction? (hopefully defined somewhere) What's a be bus? I read 'bee bus' at first, which sounds kinda cute. Can you tell where you are in the pattern, with relation to the pattern picture? If it's a free pattern on the internet, from a legitimate source that has permission to post the pattern, could you post a link to it? If it's a purchased pattern, could you tell us the name of the pattern and it's source (magazine, book, etsy). If we could see a picture of the item, it could help us decipher it.
  10. Yippee!! So glad it clicked
  11. Ah, so it's a half granny. (I was just sitting here trying to see if it made a difference where the tail was; maybe there's more than 1 way to make a slip knot. If I flip mine over the source thread's on the wrong side (in the front), and you can't work over the tail, well it's sort of a mess. I'm not very ambidextrous...) I'll see if I can find another half granny pattern, if only to get you started. I think once you get going, it's going to be a thousand times easier. Here's one. No videos, but it has bunches of photos. I was also a little concerned about your pattern because it just said 'make a ring' but didn't tell you how (slip stitch into first chain); this one explains things more thoroughly. Does this help at all? https://docs.google.com/document/d/11PMo-XvVKC2d8fIrWIbty4XYHKdatYakdLwSoK_Stmk/preview
  12. I don't know what happened, I made 2 different posts and ended up with 1 post, duplicated. Trying again... I was thinking, to help you see that those individual chains in the initial ring are irrelevant, is to have you try an adjustable ring instead. The adjustable ring/magic loop can look complicated, but really it's just a slip knot. (this is one of those things I had to watch a couple of videos on, for that to dawn on me). We all know how to make a slip knot to put the yarn on the hook. For the ring, make a slip knot around the hook, but don't close it tight over the hook - leave it open, maybe 1". This leaves you with a yarn loop over the hook, and a big ring below. Yarn over, pull thru that loop, and you've made a chain around the ring. Make 3 more chains for the chain 4. Yarn over, stick the hook into the big opening of the ring, and complete a DC. Now make 3 more, and you've got what's shown in the picture below, Note, you work over the yarn circle and the tail, so over 2 strands. Have you ever made a shell stitch, or a granny square? In a shell stitch, you make 3 or more stitches into 1 stitch. For a granny square, you put 3 stitches around a chain between stitches in the round below. Think of this big yarn slip knot as one big stitch opening that you are putting several stitches into. Below is an open slip knot with chain 4 and 3 DC made over the ring and tail. The tail is the end pointing down, the yarn from the skein is at the left. When you're done, pull the tail end to tighten up the ring to where you want it, and weave the tail in well later.
  13. ^ What she said. Your last post said "I'm unable to find all the other chains". Your'e not supposed to be able to find them. You are supposed to cover them up with the stitches. If you think about it, the magic/adjustable ring shown in the video is pretty much just strands of yarn. You con't/can't work into the strands, right? You want to use them as a base to work the stitches around, but you don't want the threads or chains exposed. Stop thinking of the first 4 chains as stitches, because they are not. Think of those 4 stitches as 1 thing, a ring, that you make stitches around and cover up. I hope you don't think I'm lecturing you; I'm just trying to say the same thing several ways hoping that one way will make more sense to you (I know it works that way with me and new techniques--sometimes I have to watch more than one video before it sinks in)
  14. Oh yay! Thanks for letting us know, and so much for my google skills
  15. When you work in the round from the center, you create some sort of ring (either several chains, or by the magic ring/adjustable loop) and then stick your hook into the hole made by the ring, and make stitch around the ring. You normally don't make stitches into the chains. An exception, I've seen examples where you start with chain 2, and then you make several SC into the first chain; so in this case, when you are only starting with a few stitches in the center, the chain becomes the ring. (SC circles usually start with 6 stitches when the center is closed, like for a hat for example; you can easily get 6 stitches into 1 chain, and form your first round that way). I'm just mentioning this exception, that's not what your pattern is telling you to do If you had a beginning circle that was made of 4 chains joined into a circle, you could probably stuff 15+ stitches into/around the chains of the circle. A lot more than you'd think, anyway. Back to the magic circle, and the confusion about the 4 chains. You also make that first chain around the magic circle threads, also by sticking your hook into the circle. That 4 chains will be come your first stitch or stitches. If you started with 4 chains, then closed the ring, then 'chained up' 4, the next stitches would be made by sticking your hook into the ring and making the stitches over/around the ring. Here is a video. This one is starting with a magic circle and she's only chaining 3, not 4, but it's the same principle as if you had started with chain 4 to make the initial circle, joined to the first chain with a slip stitch, and chained 3 or 4. I hope this helps? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukrrfXc8_Cw