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Granny Square

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About Granny Square

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A Few Things About Me

  • Ravelry ID
  • Location
    Pacific Northwest
  • Hobbies
    Crochet, Sewing
  • Occupation
    Retired
  • Favorite hook type
    Aluminum
    Steel
  • Favorite projects
    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  • Crocheting since...
    1970's Granny Square era ;)

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  1. Hi Racquelle, welcome to the 'ville! I'm not the designer, but the title of the pattern says it is for an 18" baby doll, so a bit too small for most newborns. I would guess (if you are brave) you could make the initial pentagon a few rounds bigger, as well as other bits.
  2. Welcome to the 'ville, Aimee! Did your pattern tell you to increase for some number of rnds after the neck, and then stopped telling you to increase a couple of rows ago? That is what I would have expected the pattern to say assuming you are making a human doll. Does your stitch count in the round you are currently in, match what the pattern says you should have in that round? Sometimes, when you go from increasing each round to not increasing (like starting a hat from the top), it takes a while for it to start getting (edit I should have said seeing) straight sides. However, your
  3. Those are really sharp looking, the simple button really sets them off. Thanks for sharing the pattern!
  4. Oh duh, I need to clean my glasses -- I read the grams as yards in your first post (like 2 skeins of different yardages, 1 @ 100yds and the other @ 400 yds). Well this should give you more patterns too choose from!
  5. So 500 yards total, if I'm understanding you correctly? Here is a search on Ravelry on tanks in crochet, free, fingering weight tank tops using 450-600 yards; rather slim pickings. If you are not a member I'm not sure if the search parameters will 'hold' for you, but you can call it up by putting tank top in the search box and selecting the other parameters from the menu on the left side. (I also chose universal or English). I think the 'free' classification isn't always accurate, I just found one that was in a magazine from a few years ago you'd have to hunt for.
  6. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=crochet&language=u|en&availability=free&query=duck&sort=best&view=captioned_thumbs Above link has some free patterns; if you are not a member you may need to re-set the search parameters, I searched on duck in the search box, and 'free', language = English craft = crochet. (some odd things show up, one designer had 'duck' as part of her name for example)
  7. I'm not positive that this is exactly this (knit) stitch, but it looks very similar https://www.knittingkingdom.com/lattice-pattern-knitting-stitch/ The above link's photo is showing it in thicker yarn and done in a needle size that makes a more solid fabric, your photo's fabric looks like it is done in lace weight and a bigger hook (so fabric is open and loose).
  8. I knit a little, and I suspect is is manufactured knit. I don't knit enough to guess how it might be done by hand, but if you look down the center of the raised diamond shapes it looks like stockinette (knit stitches facing you).
  9. Welcome to the 'ville. I would interpret that this means to stitch into chain spaces too. A big clue was 'shaping the arm holes', if you skipped the chains it would pucker a tiny bit and make the armholes smaller, which wouldn't make sense; you want armholes to be roomy and lie flat. When I have to slip stitch or regular stitch into a chain, I typically don't insert the hook under the top 2 loops of the stitch as you would for a SC or taller. For slip stitches into foundation chains I use the back loop of the chain (not the back bump; it's the top loop with the chain facing you) , for
  10. Welcome to the 'ville! Crochet stitches are sort of magical, you can put 1 to about 20 into 1 stitch (beyond 20-ish it gets a little hairy tho). Remember that a chain 'floats in the air', it doesn't take up room IN a stitch. So if | is a dtr and ° is a chain, that's |°|°|°|°| all in 1 stitch, but only 5 DTRS are taking up space IN that stitch, the 4 chains are floating above. Since you have crammed all that into 1 stitch, the next step is telling you to skip (miss) 3 stitches in the row below to allow room for all those crammed stitches, they will sort of spread out like a fan
  11. Ooh, pretty! Thanks for sharing your pattern
  12. Granny Square

    C2C

    I was just thinking, if that looks a little odd, maybe work a 48x48 triangle in 1 color, work alternating stripes for 30 rows (could be wide stripes), then finish the last 48x48 triangle in the other color. Or vary the width of the stripes so it looks like 1 color is blending into the other. (don't forget, I'm assuming your c2c squares are 1", you will need to re-plot this to your gauge)
  13. Granny Square

    C2C

    What I said is on the right track, I was 1 row off. The edge color cut-in is 15 rows on 1 end (the top of my diagram) and 16 on the other. Dark lines mark 10 x 10 grids, color covers 48 by 78 grids.
  14. Granny Square

    C2C

    This is "plotting it" in my head, but I will do it out for real and come back to confirm (on a spreadsheet, will just take a few minutes). I think you need to think of it in terms of the difference of the 2 measurements, let's say your c2c squares are 1". The difference between 48 and 78 is 30, half of 30 is 15. So I think you would start with just color A for 15 squares, then start cutting in color B, and color A should stop 15 squares from the other end, which would continue with 15 rows of color B. It cannot be exactly diagonal, corner to corner, unless the blanket is a square.
  15. I was thinking 5dctog (decrease) as well, which is sort of related to a cluster (cluster uses 1 stitch usually, decreases use more than 1, but the stitch-forming action is the same). One thing that I always do when I'm uncertain of an instruction is to look at the pattern photo in that spot, what does it look like is happening there?
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