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Granny Square

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About Granny Square

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A Few Things About Me

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    Pacific Northwest
  • Hobbies
    Crochet, Sewing
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    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  • Crocheting since...
    1970's Granny Square era ;)

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  1. When you see a line of a pattern like the one you quoted, "row 1: "do stuff"--38 stitches" it means after "doing stuff" your stitch count should be 38--it's a sort of sanity check to make sure you have the right number of stitches at that point, not telling you to make 38 more stitches.
  2. 2 pocket linings are made first, which are 23 dc across and worked in rows until they are 4.5" inches deep. It's OK to post a line or 2 of a pattern, so I'll do that - my notes in red, also added some bolding for orientation. Place pocket: Next row: (WS). Ch 2. 1 hdc in each of first 10 (12- 12-14-16-18) hdc of the body (see diagram, it's made in 1 piece up to the armholes, the diagram has 2 short horizontal lines on the jacket fronts where the pocket tops will be). 1 hdc in each of 23 hdc from Pocket Lining. (so you stop working across the body and veer off to the lining) Skip
  3. Forgot to add, on the link I gave you, there is a menu on the right hand side, if you click on 'standard yarn weight system' it tells you which hook size range are typically used for each US yarn weight class.
  4. Just in case, here are steel hook sizes, which are normally for doily-size thread but there's some overlap in the bigger steel thread hooks and smaller yarn hooks (which are usually aluminum, plastic or sometimes wood). https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/steel-crochet-hook-crochet-thread-sizes
  5. Meant to add this link, there's a lot of great info at this site, not just this page. Scroll down so the 'parentheses, asterisk and brackets part', to where the paragraph starts "now just to make things more complicated'...it explains the double asterisk.
  6. How did you react to the double asterisk in the middle of the repeat? The ** is a marker that conventionally means you ignore the mark all the way through a row until you get to the spot where it tells you to 'activate' it. So when you are at the point where there is only 3 sc and a chain space left, you should be at the ** part of the pattern, and you skip the part I crossed off and finish with the bold part. Ch4, [3 dc between next two 3-dc groups] twice, *(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in ch 3 sp, {3 dc between next two 3-dc groups] twice**, skip sp between next 2 groups, [3 dc between next
  7. That would make a lovely pillow top, that pattern has such different looks with different color schemes, thanks for the link!
  8. I just tried that (skipping 4 stitches and fptr in the next st on row 1...it was quite a trial to hold onto that loop. It looked a tiny bit better doing a double treble post stitch instead, for me--possibly because my stitch gauge tends toward shorter stitches than average based on most pattern gauges, the fabric was actually folding over a bit with just a treble's height at that slant. Maybe try DTR stitch in that spot? The reason you are skipping a stitch in row 2 is because you are creating a stitch whose 'stitch top' floats over the top of that stitch; if you didn't skip that stit
  9. Back in the '80s a co-worker had a side business selling makeup and 'doing your colors' which was a 'thing' back then. I'm a Summer (blue overtones, more on the pastel side of colors) so yeah, oranges and yellows aren't my thing either.
  10. This isn't the 'end all' list of patterns, but here is the Red Heart's parent company's pattern page (Includes other brands). The 'father pullover' is sized from small to 3XL, and takes between 6 to 8 skeins of RHSS, each skein being (7 oz/198 g; 364 yds/333m) The V-necked cardigan is for adults but the pattern models are women (there's no shaping to make it specific for women), it's also calling out a different brand (Caron) which is the same weight as RHSS so you could substitute it if you want. It goes from extra small to 4/5 XL and takes between 4-9 skeins of Caron Simply Soft, e
  11. Welcome to the 'ville! Hard to say, people come in all sorts of sizes, and different styles of sweaters will take different amounts (a cabled pullover for example, would take more yarn than a plain one). I'll come back with a couple of multi-sized patterns which will give you a ballpark idea...
  12. I put red numbers in row 3's scanto count the stitches, 1 + 2, then the stuff in the bracket is 3 stitches x3=9, then 1, so a subtotal of 13. Then you do all that AGAIN, so now you have 13x2=26 stitches. Then at the very end is 1 stitch in the last stitch, for a total of 27. I hope that makes sense?
  13. Welcome to the 'ville, NanaBea. The loop your hook is pointing at - one thing to be careful of when you are doing post stitches is to hold onto the loop on your hook to make sure it doesn't loosen up with all that reaching--hold onto the loop on the hook with your finger as you make the stitch, don't let it stretch. However, it is the nature of a post stitch to be a tad gappier than rows of 'plain' stitches, but not that much. You are 9 stitches short out of 27, so you are missing a third of your stitches. One thing that is a little mind bending the first time you do post stitches
  14. That makes perfect sense for a border, if not turning kept the border on the right side of the work. I'd just never seen it abbreviated before.
  15. Welcome to the 'ville! I don't know what 'dnt' means, is that maybe a typo? Also "ch11dc spaced evenly up", I'm going to guess that should have been "chain 1, dc spaced evenly up"? To stitch 'evenly' into what I assume are row ends not stitches, that's a sort of eyeball thing. Is this pattern in UK or US terms? If your DC is a UK DC, then usually you can just put 1 UK DC into each row-end of a UK DC, but 'eyeball' if it's starting to not lie flat, add or subtract a stitch to that scheme every so often, to keep it flat. If this is US DC, the row ends are 'wider', usually 2 DC
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