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Granny Square

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About Granny Square

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    Pacific Northwest
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    Crochet, Sewing
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    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  • Crocheting since...
    1970's Granny Square era ;)

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  1. You need to ask your requester what they expect. I doubt it's yarn of any type. You want something very flat, thin and 'not squishy'. When 'tablecloth' and 'crochet' are mentioned in the same sentence, it normally means doily thread and tiny motifs, or could be a solid piece in filet perhaps, but still tiny thread. Miles and miles of doily thread (literaly, until recently Red Heart used to sell balls of crochet thread that had more yardage than a mile; I've gone thru about 1.5 of them making doilies....over several years....but I would never make myself, or offer to make someone else, a tablecloth. It's a HUGE project.) You can run down to Walmart and get a fabric tablecloth for....arbitrarily picking the biggest size for the first one that came up in a search, 60"x102"...$17.88. It would take $17.88 several times over just for the thread you'd need. Heck, I'd charge more than $17.88 just to add a narrow-ish thread lace edging around an existing tablecloth that size, would be 9 yards of lace edging--of course they might have a smaller table, but ...! And if by some odd chance they said, for example, that a tablecloth made out of Read Heart Super Saver is OK...You wouldn't be able to buy the yarn to cover a table for that amount. And we haven't mentioned the cost of your labor... ...I brought up the Walmart example because people gauge 'value' at what they can pay retail for a similar-use item, which is often less than a crafter's material, let alone time. [edit, I should add, I BOUGHT myself a "lace" tablecloth at Walmart maybe 15-ish years ago, I'm remembering it was about $15 - not a vinyl one, a machine knitted 'fake crochet filet' style. I just looked, they still have similar ones online for about the same price]
  2. Makes sense there must be a sleeve, or strips going across every so often, to thread the support piece thru keep them in place. Reason I was thinking plastic pipe (the thin cheap stuff, I know there are different grades) is that it IS pretty cheap (cheaper than wood dowels), plus there are elbow fittings of different angles that could have achieved those angles at the corners--you probably wouldn't have to bother to glue them. Plus pipe is lighter weight and easier to clean than wood if that might be an issue. It would probably work if it were just the 'roof' part, ^ without the walls | |, it would be plenty big, and I really think that 'snug' not 'roomy' is what a cat would go for. Also you wouldn't need angle fittings. edit Example on the pipe, I just googled Lowes' and they have 'Charlotte pipe', 10' of 0.5" diameter for $2.02, or same length of 0.75" diameter for @2.47, which was the cheapest I could find at a quick glance. I assume that's not what you'd pick for the best quality plumbing purpose (they also carried a lot of other much pricier and sturdier looking pipes), but would work fine to prop up a kitty hideaway. What may have made me think of pipe - I knew someone who did quilting who built her quilting frame from plastic pipe and elbow fittings, when she was done using it she just pulled it apart and stored the pieces in the back of a closet.
  3. Wow, what a fancy kitty palace. It looks like there is some framework in there, see how each side of the 'seam' it appears to be bulging out a little? Could be plastic pipe maybe...
  4. Hi and welcome to the 'ville, and to crochet! Self-published patterns are a pig in a poke, some are well written but many are not, or are not written for new crocheters and assume you can figure out their terse terms. I think this may fall into the last category. You are apparently starting with the ears, judging by the color combo. I have to say, I've been crocheting for decades and have never had a pattern that changed color on a foundation chain. I just tried it, not a biggie, the biggest 'thing' I see is being careful to keep the tension the same where they join together. Leave long ends to sew in later. First, let me back up. Have you ever worked into a foundation chain? ...I just erased a bunch of typing because I found a video that says it better. There are 3 ways to work into the chain, and I didn't go any farther than the beginning of the first method she showed (using the top loop), which she described as the 'easiest, and usually taught to beginners' -- this is how I learned, and even after using the other 2 methods I still use the first because I also think it is superior to the other 2 for various reasons. After 50 years and however many projects, it has worked for all of them. I suggest making a practice chain in 1 color, and practicing a little first - get all those wonky stitches out of the way first. When you get to the real chain in your pattern, just do what it says--make the slip knot with the black and chain 5, drop the black and pick up the white and pull thru the the loop on your hook and make 4 more white chains, then do the same for the yellow. Then, it omits an important word - it should have said TURN, start in the second chain from the hook. I like how it color codes the instructions to match the colors you are working in - since you ended with the yellow and turned, you will start with the yellow, and end with the black. There should be a key to define stitches - all well written patterns have them, they won't explain basic stuff like chain or sc, but 'inc' could be ambiguous - usually it means increase by 1, by putting 2 stitches into 1 stitch. This pattern is written rather tersely. In rnd 1 where it says for example '3 sc, 5 sc, [the first ]4 sc', it means '1 sc into each of the next 3 sc', '1 sc into each of the next 5 sc', '1 sc into each of the next 4sc' -- using the yarn colors indicated. 4 sc into the last stitch (meaning last chain), hopefully makes sense. OK, now for the part that is probably confusing. Guess what--you ARE going to be working in the round! Except in an oval, and the chain is it's 'spine'. If you chose the method I suggested, you've used the top loop of the chain, but there are 2 unused loops underneath the chain. When you work in a circle, as you already know, you scatter the increases around the circle evenly. In an oval, the increases all happen at the 2 ends of the chain. Think of an oval as making half a circle, a straight part, and another half circle. In your pattern, the 4 sc AFTER the first 4sc is all made into 1 stitch -- the last stitch of the chain, and this is turning the corner, making the first half circle. Now you will be putting stitches into the 2 unused loops of the chain, underneath where you were working before. Ovals are a little mind bending the first time you do them. You might look for youtube videos for the concept, the stitch counts will be different but it will make the construction make sense, if my explanation didn't.
  5. Very similar in size to the last one I linked (with the yarn chewing cat). That pattern was 37cm across, which is about 14.5 inches...I was trying to think of how big a curled up cat was and thinking a tad over 12", so that sounds about right. The OP's pattern is (pretty much) the same size, 14". Elmoflim, unless I'm mistaken your project looks like it's quite a bit bigger. I think you are going to have to go down a few hook sizes. I'm not gonna lie, if your hands don't hurt the hook is probably too big for this to stand up on it's own. But then I'm not so young any more and it doesn't take much to get my hands to hurt...your fabric needs to be very stiff, like cardboard, for this to work. Actually, remember that clothesline? Would be a perfect technique for this whole bed, not just the opening for that other 'cat cave' pattern. Maybe going down a few hook sizes and crocheting over a couple of strands of your yarn would help get the stiffness you need. And size does matter here, to big and it's more apt to collapse.
  6. I agree, I think of 'cat (or dog) bed' as something shaped like the pic in your video link. I took her literally when she mentioned roof. The UK site link that I posted had a some items that one could say had 'roofs', most were more like bags. this one has a roof, for example - the second pic made me laugh, the cat 'helping' by chewing on the yarn, And that's what I meant by 'cat sized', she just fits in there curled up. But, the bed would have also worked just fine if stopped at the point of the second pic (without the roof, but sides to make her feel 'safe'). edited, meant to add, that's a good idea, a 'cat tipi/tee pee', however you spell it. I bet the cone-shaping should give it a lot more structure that would encourage it to stand up--again, the tighter the stitches, the better.
  7. I didn't look too hard, but I found this (UK site. If I were picking a pattern for my cat, I'd pick this one, which has a sort-of half roof that is supported with plastic filament--you could probably use heavy fishing line (maybe a couple of rounds of it to be sturdy), just make sure to cover the overlapped ends well (I think I'd use duct tape all around, overkill but less likely for the cat to chew apart hopefully; you'd have to be careful washing it). edit - Something occurred to me just as I was hitting post above--a couple of things that might work instead of plastic around the opening. In old time Irish crochet doilies, a common element was a padded ring--which was made by wrapping doily thread a few times around something (a crochet hook's back end, a pencil) to form the padding, take the thread off the 'form' and then you crocheted around the thread circle (stick your hook in the middle of the ring, pull up a loop, finish the stitch around the wrapped thread) so the wrapped thread was covered. Another old-time technique is 'clothesline crochet', where you worked in a spiral to make baskets, usually - make a sc into a sc in the row below, except around a clothesline 'rope' that travels under the stitches around and around. Where I'm going with this, is instead of using plastic fishing line, maybe on the above pattern you could make the opening stiff enough by crocheting around clothesline-like rope, or 2-3 lengths of yarn, to create a 'stiff enough' opening. The key for firm shaping, which you will need for this half roof pattern, is you are going to need to crochet very tightly. Use the smallest hook that you can manage for the yarn.
  8. It has a 'roof'?? No way ANY crocheted item bigger than a couple of inches is going to support a 'roof'. You'd need some sort of solid framework. Off topic a little, but your bed seems awfully big, even if it's supposed to be inflated to a 3-dimensional ball shape with a roof. If the sides were turned up to a shape like the tutorial that Krys posted (second post in this thread), it would be almost large-dog size. Cats like to cram into little 'safe' spots barely bigger than their curled-up selves, just sayin'. If your bed was a quarter that size (to be barely bigger than a cat to get into), and crocheted much tighter, it might stand up enough to work. In the photo of the posted tutorial, the sides (appear to be) stuffed with fiberfill, which will help them stand up.
  9. Welcome to the 'ville! The only reason I could think of to fasten off would be if it had you starting again without turning (to keep the same side facing), but it would have spelled that out. I agree the 'fasten off' doesn't belong there--as a double-check, the same lace pattern in the cap doesn't mention fastening off.
  10. Nice! The colors work well together -- and interesting how the pooling worked out.
  11. "sc 3, hdc 1, hdc 2 in next 3 sts" Based on my experience of typical pattern wording I would interpret this as: sc 3=1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches (uses and creates 3 stitches) hdc 1=1 hdc in the next 1 stitch (uses and creates 1 stitch) hdc 2 in next 3 sts= 2 hdc in each of the next 3 stitches (uses 3 stitches, creates 6 stitches) edit, normally if a pattern just says 3(something) and doesn't tell you where to put them, it means 1 each in the next 3 stitches. If it wants you to put multiple stitches into 1 stitch, it will tell you and be specific about which stitch they go into. If it's 1 stitch and NOT in the next stitch, it will be specific where it should go. If it doesn't specify where stitches go, it typically means something like the first 2 lines I broke down (don't skip any stitches, don't put multiple stitches into 1 stitch, just 1 stitch into 1 stitch). The third line, 'hdc 2 in next 3 sts', is being specific about how many in each stitch, and where to put them.
  12. Good morning Magic! (well, it's morning in my time zone) It's usually the other way around, Granny 1, Magic 1001! (EmmaB, Magiccrochetfan and I often post at nearly the same time, but I'm usually the slower typer!)
  13. Not stupid questions, just the first time you've encountered a new thing. You are right in your guess to your first question, some patterns end each row with a helpful 'sanity check' summary of the total stitches you are supposed to end up with for that row. A chain space is a span of chains between other stitches, example rnd 1 has the equivalent of 2 sets of 6 triples+ch2, so the ch2 is a ch sp. If a lacy pattern has a complex repeat with different length chain spaces in 1 round, the following row or round will usually say 'do x in the chain 5 space, do y in the chain 2 space' for clarity. But in your pattern, for that rnd it's all ch2 spaces so 'ch sp' suffices.
  14. I usually wind my skeins into a ball (by hand, but I rarely work on items with more than a couple of colors so this works for me, and I don't own a swift and ball winder). For a while, crochet a row a day, and wind a ball a day for example. Factory skeins that are partially used can get floppy and tangly (especially if you pull from the center), but I find that wound balls behave better. You can secure the end under a strand beneath, easy to undo when you need to but just sitting around or jostling in a bag the end will usually stay put, so no tangling.
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