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Granny Square

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About Granny Square

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  • Location
    Pacific Northwest
  • Hobbies
    Crochet, Sewing
  • Occupation
    Retired
  • Favorite hook type
    Aluminum
    Steel
  • Favorite projects
    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  • Crocheting since...
    1970's Granny Square era ;)

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  1. That is the CUTEST dog! It does look like there are indeed increases in the shoulder/chest area, and they appear to start around where the the neck meets the back spine. I hear ya on your last sentence, if my second interpretation is close to being right that was a major goof (leaving off the part about returning to the neck). I wish the math of my theory hadn't been off 1 stitch...
  2. Well, fooey, I didn't do the math and skimmed over the increases (which upon re-reading the detail don't make sense); I focused on "was 24, is now 63"; 24 + 17 +17 + 5 to turn the corner at the rear end of the dog sounded roughly reasonable and is 63 stitches. Assuming the neck was 24: below adds what the pattern said after the 18 chains, in steps, with the # of stitches in each step bolded: sc in next 17 ch, 17 (this uses up 1 side of the chain) (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times, (each repeat uses 4 stitches and creates 5). Now, does it mean repeat 5 MORE rep
  3. Ah, I see, makes sense for a cloud--sort of like the edge of this doily (except fewer rounds of chains).
  4. Is there a link to what the cloud looks like on the 'net somewhere? ("when in doubt, look at the pattern photo" is one of my mottos...) My thoughts - (1) Chain 5 would be in the current round, and 'skip chains' typically mean skipping chains in the prior round. But there are exceptions, snowflakes for example are mostly chains that double back on each other (chain 8, slip stitch in the 4th chain, chain 6, slst in the 3rd chain...) (2) Unless it is a big picot, where after making a stitch that is not a chain (example a hdc like in your oval), you chain at least 3 and slip stitc
  5. Good find, that is really close! To the OP, this uses a sport weight yarn https://www.garnstudio.com/yarn.php?show=drops-safran&cid=19 Each skein of the Safran is 160 meters, which is 175 yards, so if you use this pattern but not that exact yarn, you will have to look at how many skeins of the Safran is needed for your size and multiply by the meters or yards per skein, and then figure out how many skeins of your replacement yarn you will need since different brands will likely have different yardage per skein. Round up, lots of times I've done this and usually end up with an extra
  6. Actually, the stitch instruction itself is clear (in my opinion), BUT it should have said something like "start of xyz shaping" to orient you to what's going on. When I encounter a peculiar instruction that is not obviously a typo I usually follow it, it is more often correct than not, just a peculiar/new-to-me way to shape something. The clue was "extending out from the round". This reminds me of an inquiry here about another toy (a llama) few months ago where the head and neck were worked in the round, and then mid-back neck you made a long chain that became the llama's 'spine' whic
  7. You are making an oval. Oops, Bgs just posted and beat me to describing it. This transaction is a little mind-bending the first time you do it. It might not be a bad idea to find a youtube video on how to crochet an oval, seeing it might help - the stitch count in any video will vary, but the concept is the same - the mind bending part is working into the loops on the underside of the chain that you did not use on the first 'normal' pass.
  8. If you find a pattern done in DC, it looks like the stitch pattern is along the lines of: *6 DC, (DC2Tog, ch2, DC2Tog), repeat. The 6 DC go into 6 DCs in the row below, the stuff in ( ) goes around the ch2 space in the row below. Note, it might work better with a ch3 space instead, you'll have to swatch; depends on the tension of your chains versus your stitches, my chains tend to be looser.
  9. Welcome to the 'ville! It's sideways, it should be turned 90° to the right. Using US stitch terms-- The white lines - not sure, either embroidered, or possible are the reverse side of what happens when you do a surface slip stitch--which looks like a chain on the front side and 'dashes' like that on the reverse side--Tutorial The grey part looks like : *DC in DC below, V-stitch in V stitch below, repeat; the row probably ends in a DC for symmetry. The V stitch looks like 3 DC, chain x, 3 DC-- x might be 2 or 3.
  10. I 'haunt' vintage pattern sites regularly and have never seen a specific pattern for a bed canopy. Your best bet would be to modify a vintage thread lace tablecloth or bedspread pattern (one that was made with motifs would be easy to amend the size and shape). Also, you could 'cheat' and buy a flat sheet the right size, hem it if necessary and and add a couple of rows of lace bed/tablecloth motifs, or find a wide lacy crochet edging or valance pattern to add around the sheet (so only the lace would show unless you walked right up to the bed and looked up); back in the old days when can
  11. That is weird...Is the pattern something on the order of (making something up, not related to what you typed)*sc, chain x, skip y stitches, sc, repeat? In other words, you can't have a chain space without something else for the chain to be spaced between? Then I could see you being able to (approximately) measure 5.3 chain spaces. Not all patterns give you a pattern to make a swatch specifically, they just tell you what the stitch pattern should yield measurement-wise. I would make a chain longer than 4" and work back in the pattern stitch. Normally you want to measure INSIDE t
  12. I agree with BGS that the instructions probably mean to increase evenly, but it depends on where in the arm you are - it might be making an elbow in 1 spot, where you would want a bulge or outer bend in the arm on one side of the arm, and probably decreases on the other side of the arm for the inside bend. If the arms on the pattern photo are straight, then increase evenly. (Pattern photos can answer a lot of pattern questions in my experience). A thought...did you know there were different kinds of hooks? I learned on tapered hooks, an as a new crocheter I crocheted REALLY tightly, an
  13. In the patterns I've used, ribbing has been in SC made BLO (back loop only); I think SC BLO makes a stretchier rib than HDC BLO but HDC BLO ribbing looks a tiny bit more like knit ribbing
  14. Oh, ribbing, of course! (headslap) Silly me, I should have thought of that. I wasn't too far off with my guess tho, you are working into the ends of rows You have made the ribbing, and sewn it into a tube. Now, you need to 'grow' the leg warmers from what was 1 side of the ribbing, 'up' toward the knee. Turn the ribbing tube so it looks like |||||||| . You will be working across the top of the now-vertical ribbing, which WAS the sides of the ribbing (row ends) as you were making it. See how the 'leg' part of the pattern starts, 'working across top edge in ends of rows?
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