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Granny Square

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About Granny Square

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  • Location
    Pacific Northwest
  • Interests
    Crochet, Sewing
  • Occupation
  • How long have you been crocheting?
    1970's Granny Square era ;)
  • Favorite things to crochet
    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  • Favorite Hook

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  1. Granny Square

    I'm allergic to crochet!

    Cotton has less 'give' than springier fibers like wool or acrylic, so you have to work a tiny bit harder to make stitches, which might be why you have more issues with it. (replying to the above poster Samanthajane who sounds like she's having repetitive injury issues than rash/possible allergies). I have arthritis (fingers) and past tendinitis (wrist, 'tennis', shoulder) issues that flare up, but I know where those came from (not crochet). Never have had had to deal with rashes thank goodness.
  2. Granny Square

    Please help, struggling with this pattern!

    ^ what she said. It sounds like you made the sole by working back and forth in rows. It's just trying to be helpful and explain that in order to work the first round AROUND the sole, you'll work into the sides of stitches at the row-ends of the sole, and into the top of stitches at the toe, and into the underneath of stitches at the heel (assuming you started at the heel).
  3. Granny Square

    best fabric kitchen chairs

  4. Granny Square

    C2C Scarf

    Nice! I usually skip multi-colored yarn, I'll have to take a second look at Scarfie.
  5. Granny Square

    IN search of afghan pattern JADE TREASURES

    I don't have it, and am not sure what the pattern stitch is, but it might help to know the name of it. It is a Herrshner's kit, oddly sold by Walmart?? Name of the pattern is Jade Treasures. If someone made the afghan from a kit, they might be willing to sell or gift the pattern to you (photocopying/scanning a copy would violate copyright laws). link--I couldn't find it on Herrschners site, alas Walmart is out of stock but you might inquire about it - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Herrschners-Jade-Treasures-Crochet-Afghan-Kit/49908317
  6. Granny Square

    Adjusting pattern for different yarn?

    I think you mean 5mm and 25mm hook, not yarn. Which is ginormous 25 mm is about 1", and would require super bulky yarn, which is expensive (there's way less yardage on a skein), usually loosely spun; with that huge of a hook it would be really holey, even with super bulky, and I wouldn't think it would hold up well for a pet coat, not to mention wouldn't be very warm (holey). Each stitch is going to be close to 1" across, this is...extreme. I strongly suggest you find another pattern, one with a schematic, since you need to modify this pretty drastically. It would be easier to modify if you knew the shape/outline, measured your dog, re-entered the inches in the schematic to your dog's measurements in critical areas of the schematic, did a swatch, and recalculated the number of stitches you'd need to make across the shape of the schematic to fit your pup 🐕 I'm also looking a little side-eyed at this pattern, the gauge given is odd. The pattern stitch is sc, dc, repeat (I learned this as up-down stitch, it has other names), the gauge says '7 sps =4". Sps makes no sense, I'm going to assume it's the 2 stitch pattern repeat, so 14 stitches =4", 4 divided by 14 is .286" width for 1 stitch. This is irrelevant in detail, I'm just giving you the process to figure out your gauge with your yarn and hook of choice, so you can modify something to get it the size you want. You need to know how wide 1 stitch is to do this. (Lots of math & swatching in crochet tweaking, sorry). Here is a pattern that goes to 28", a little bit closer to 32" than the other pattern, and it has a schematic. https://www.lionbrand.com/crochet-pattern-asta-dog-sweater.html?noImages=;ss= It is a free pattern from Lion Brand yarn, but you have to create a logon - download button is the yellowish-green one near the top. It calls for a bulky yarn (Lion Brand Scarfie) and J hook. You don't have to use that very yarn you could use (example) Red Heart Super Saver, which is worsted weight, which would also work with a J hook, figure out your stitch gauge with that yarn and hook combo, and then figure how many stitches you'd need to get the measurements of the schematic. Example - I'm going to use my gauge with RHSS and a J hook. (pauses to swatch) That's interesting, the pattern gauge with bulky and J hook is 12 stitches per 4", mine is 11 stitches. Which means I'm making BIGGER stitches with the same hook and smaller yarn. So, you might be able to use this pattern with a US#4 'medium/worsted weight' and just tweak the stitch count a bit to follow that schematic, with bigger measurements for your bigger dog. 4 inches divided by 11 stitches is .36 of an inch per stitch. Now, look at the schematic - across the neck is 12", which is supposed to 'fit' a dog with a 28" chest. I don't know if 4" difference in chest measurement of your dog, and the pattern's biggest dog, equates to 4" at the neck, but let's say it does. 12+4 is 16". 16 inches, divided by my gauge of .36"per stitch, is 44 stitches around the neck, so you'd probably want to make the ribbing 44 rows, and then turn and made 1 stitch into the side of each ribbing row, and on from there. (Obviously, don't go by my guesses, I'm just illustrating the process). Now your gauge isn't my gauge, so you're going to have to to some swatching and recalculating. What I'd do is: (1) measure your dog (2) get some newspaper, tissue paper, whatever and make a cut-out that matches the shape of the pattern schematic, but bigger where you think it would be appropriate to match your dog, and put that paper pattern on your dog. Decide if it needs tweaking and and either trim or add paper (or notes, '2" more here' or whatever to the paper pattern. Then, work with your gauge to make a piece, and straps, to match the paper pattern and your dog. This is verbose, and sounds complicated, but really isn't. BTW, you could use that 'up down' stitch pattern if you want (except for the ribbing, and I might go with SC for the straps if you think they should be sturdier) if you'll be following a size and shape template, it's a nice textured stitch.
  7. Granny Square

    Silly question - I'm a bit stuck

    Y'know, HDC is not my favorite stitch and I don't use it a lot. But I've noticed in patterns it gets treated in 2 turning-chain ways (1) chain 1, doesn't count as a stitch (like SC), or (2) chain 2, skip the first stitch, it does count as a stitch. If I ran into a pattern written in the latter style I'd probably 're-write' it in my head to the first, would keep the stitch count the same. I'm a yanker and make short stitches (but loose chains, go figure), so treating HDC like SC would work for me but maybe not everybody.
  8. Granny Square

    Help with baby bonnet

    Cute! Glad you found a better fitting solution. I'm going to guess that you crocheted it together at the back, either sc or slip stitch. That leaves a ridge, which is OK for things on a bigger scale, like blankets, but maybe not so much baby clothes. In knitting , the common seaming method is the mattress stitch, which leaves a raised edge on the backside but looks flat and invisible on the front. But...the anatomy of knit and crochet stitches are different, and the way a mattress stitch is done is different--the crochet version, because crochet stitches are thicker/more complex, is flat and pretty much invisible on both sides, no seam allowance. If you can pick out your crocheted seam, you should have enough yarn to hand sew a flat mattress join instead. Here is a video showing mattress stitch in DC.
  9. Granny Square

    Silly question - I'm a bit stuck

    Hi Reni, I'll have to try your version, hadn't thought of that. The no-chain turning DC is cool but I don't do it well, maybe just need more practice (mine are kinda loose) For a while I was doing: no chain, sc in first stitch, chain 1 for a turning DC (I make shortish DCs, some might need to chain 2 instead). Tried slst into the first st, chain 3, but didn't like how that looked. But the method I described in the above post leaves you with a 'real last stitch top' to work into, which I liked better than working into the turning chain of the prior row. In more detail: no chain, sc in first stitch. Now is the hard to describe part: on the left side of that sc are 2 strands; make the next sc into those 2 strands. Top pic shows hook going under the 2 strands, bottom pic shows finished 'stacked sc in place of DC'. The right side looks sort of like 2 chains. (gaaa, sorry so big)
  10. Granny Square

    Advice on border

    I am one that thinks that chevrons don't need borders, Part of the reason is...not just chevrons, but stripes or any stitching into the side of a row in color A, with color B, looks irregular/messy compared with stitching into the top (or bottom) of color A, with B. Also, it spoils the shape; you have a nice ^^^^^^^^^ going on, and then you add a border and get ---^^^^^^^^^--- I'm in the 'will stick out like a sore thumb' / 'often borders detract rather than enhance' crowd. It sounds like you haven't finished it, but do agree that it should end as it began with the 3 rows of dark purple. Here some ideas to adapt to turn the outline to a rectangle, but you'd still have the edge thing goin on. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/rich-kids-chevron-blanket Or,a youtube that shows a sc version with a deeper ripple. Oops, Hi Reni, pushing the button at the same time as you again! I rather like the fringe one, could incorporate all the colors perhaps.
  11. Granny Square

    Question on border and stitch.

    Awww, thanks for the update!
  12. Granny Square

    Silly question - I'm a bit stuck

    Hmmm. What are you making? Can you tell where you are in the pattern - as in, can you tell if you might need to start increasing in that spot? If it's free on the internet, could you link to it, or if a purchased pattern could you link to a pic, or tell us the name and source (x pattern from y book for example). Sometimes looking at a pic of the item can help figure these things out. Only 2 things come to me, and one is odd and probably not it. The odd thing is instead of turning and chaining up for UK TR, I sometimes turn, no chain, make 1 UK DC stacked on top of another in the first stitch, which eliminates the ch-3 and skip the first stitch. I doubt this is it, as I 'made it up' and I've never seen it in a pattern (and it's sort of convoluted and it would/should have been explained as a special stitch). Also the next stitch in the pattern would probably have been a treble. The other thing I can think of is it meant to say 'put another DC into the same stitch as the joining DC'. Which would be an increase, and also apparently shift the 'first stitch' over 1 (which occasionally happens).
  13. Granny Square

    Pesky knots in yarn

    Welcome to the 'ville! You are not going to like what I'm going to say, but I'd rip back. Any attempt to mend it is going to look --if not awful, less than ideal, and might look even worse with the camo (color change sequence and darning stitches might call more attention to it). I sympathize; I totally get the 'I want this to be DONE already', especially as a newbie, but "anything worth doing is worth doing right", er, right? And if one of the knots came undone so soon, how many more will come undone when it's been thru the wash a couple of times? Instead of a precious heirloom from grandma it will be a rag. Sorry for the blunt tough love, but think about it; not ripping back will be a 100% waste of your time if it falls apart; spending some additional time to fix it now will be well worth it. When you rip back, join the yarn either with a Russian Join, braided join, or if it's wool, a spit-splice (there are lots of youtubes out there for all 3). You don't want to trust the knots 'as is' if you find them in a skein. Depending on the item, I might not do a join at all but just weave in the ends very thoroughly - one mistake beginners make is not leaving long enough ends, you'll want 5-6 inches, and weave into the yarn with a tapestry needle, preferably in 2 directions--never just crochet over ends and snip, that isn't as secure. (there are youtubes for end weaving, as well).
  14. Granny Square

    University of Kentucky afghan

    Here is a free program that will turn a pic into a graph. For crochet, you will want to chose 1:1 stitch proportion (the default), then choose the size of the grids (how many stitches across the image will be). You are going to end up with a bit of a blur of the pixels between the 2 colors that you will have to clean up; fortunately the logo is pretty much straight lines so it should be an easy decision for which pale blue pixels bordering the white and dark blue should be white, or dark blue. Before running your image thru the program, you'll also want to make a gauge swatch with your preferred yarn and hook, decide how you big want your blanket, and center the pixelated image in your blanket. The graph may not cover all the stitches you'll need for the width you want, and you'll have to figure how many plain border stitches to add to each side (and top and bottom). Example, make a gauge swatch, say 20 stitches wide and several rows across. Measure the width of the swatch, divide by 20 - this gives you the measurement of 1 stitch. Take into account fractions of an inch, a tiny fraction can skew things across a big blanket; actually I'm in the US but prefer to measure in metric when crafting, much easier to do the math working with millimeters versus 'seven sixteenths of an inch' or whatever. Let's say you end up with 1 stitch being 0.222" wide. Let's say you run it thru the program and use the largest size, which is 120 pixels across. 120 x .222" is 26.67" wide. If you want it wider, you'll have to start with a new swatch with a bigger hook and recalculate, or figure out how many stitches, at .222" each, you will need to add total, divide by 2 and add that many plain stitches to each side. Same thing for the height, calculate the stitch height measurement and so on to figure how many rows to add top and bottom.
  15. Granny Square

    Help with baby bonnet

    Hi Reni, and Happy New Year to you too! I don't have any kids to have had bonnet fitting experience and was thinking 'riding up' meant length top to bottom was the issue, never thought of 'gathering' the back center with decreases, makes sense.