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Granny Square

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About Granny Square

A Few Things About Me

  • Ravelry ID
  • Location
    Pacific Northwest
  • Hobbies
    Crochet, Sewing
  • Occupation
    Retired
  • Favorite hook type
    Aluminum
    Steel
  • Favorite projects
    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  • Crocheting since...
    1970's Granny Square era ;)

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  1. Welcome to the 'ville and to crochet! The norm or convention is, as you said, make x foundation chains and if the first stitch is a DC, DC to the 4th ch from the hook. This leaves 3 chains that 'stand in for' a DC--conventionally. Also conventionally, at the end of a row of DC made into DCs you make the last stitch into the top of the turning chain. Then you chain 3, skip the first stitch, and DC into the next stitch. (the reason that you skip the first stitch as the turning ch-3 is functionally 'in' the first stitch, even tho it isn't literally in it). However, before the pattern starts the designer has decided to be Unconventional and NOT treat the DC as a stitch, instead she is treating it more like a SC where the turning chain does not count as a stitch - and using 2 as a turning chain, which is tall enough for turning purposes, and for not needing to DC into the turning chain later purposes. The designer possibly did this to avoid the little gap that usually happens when you chain 3, turn and skip the first stitch, and also to avoid stitching into the chain of the turning chain which some find annoying/difficult. Actually, I think this is pretty clever, I'm going to have to swatch this... But...did the pattern define what 'bo' is? Just curious, the only thing I can think of is 'bind off' since I also knit, but I can't think of what it means for crochet.
  2. Welcome to the 'ville! What sort of things do you like to make? Finding a pattern that uses a finer weight yarn and smaller hook (appropriate to the yarn size) might be one way to go. Shorter stitches are denser than taller ones, so if you like to make blankets maybe try a DC based pattern instead of SC or HDC. Using the same hook and yarn, if you make an x sized swatch in SC, then the same sized one in dc, the DC one will also use a bit less yarn. Yes, it will be less solid, but unless you are making a pot holder it probably won't matter--a DC blanket is still nice and warm.
  3. Here are a couple of free ones https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/9-pointed-round-ripple-with-solid-center https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/9-pointed-star-round-ripple
  4. I haven't made that blanket, but here's a link so others can see the end item. I'm guessing it means something a join-as-you-go scheme. Example, crocheting 4 generic square motifs in my head, where they will end up a bigger square 2 motifs on top and 2 on the bottom: Motif 1, finish completely. Motif 2, join to 1 side of motif 1 while finishing last round, finish other 3 sides. Motif 3, join to 1 side of motif 1 or 2, making a right angle shape, while finishing last round, finish other 3 sides. Motif 4, join to the inside "right angle" sides of motif 3 and 1 while making the last round, (so here you are working on the sides of 2 squares continuously), finish the last 2 sides of the last round. Now you have 1 big square, assembled like the quarter hours of a clock: square 1 is the first quarter hour, and so on around the clock until the 4th quarter hour joins the 3rd at the 9:00 line, and the 1st square at the 12:00 line. Does that make sense? Probably should have just drawn a picture--so the motifs would be joined in order like this, where 4 is joined to 2 squares' sides as you finish its last round, but the other 3 are joined to each other on 1 side. 1 2 4 3 Making them in strips would be much more work, you'd have more ends to weave in because you'd only be putting the last round on 2 opposite sides of the each square first, then making 1 long join (that would be 4 ends per square instead of 2, plus 2 more ends for each long seam. Yikes!). This way, each square has only 2 ends, period, and it's all attached when you finish the last square. You don't HAVE to do this by groups of 4, but this shows why you will end up with joining either 1 side or 2 sides while finishing a square while joining as you go.
  5. Chiming in because I saw this yesterday and it stumped me too. Confession: HDC is one of my least favorite stitches (just don't care for the appearance) so I mostly avoid it, but I agree with Reni: front and back yes, but side ? My best guess, by the wording: It sounds like you have made the front and back, and have sewn the shoulder and side seams and are now working around the armhole opening to make a sleeve in the round, so the first round will mostly be into the sides/ends of rows--mostly because by the wording it sounds like there are a couple of 'normal' stitches at the underarm. What I'd do is count how many row-ends and stitches there are, and if the number doesn't come out to 23 stitches: increase or decrease as consistently* as possible 23 stitches evenly around the armhole, by either putting 2 stitches into 1 if there are fewer than 23, or hdc2together if there are more than that around the sleeve. *consistently meaning, pick a spot that looks good and stick with it when placing the hook into the row ends
  6. Welcome to the ville! I would read that as the ch before the parentheses is the one-time turning chain for the new round, and the part to repeat is (sc, ch) in each stitch. Parentheses have a place in conventional crochet pattern 'grammar' having to do with repeats, as in "(do all this stuff) in the spot(s) I say to do it in." So that's another clue that the first ch isn't in the repeat.
  7. You're welcome! I just noticed I overlooked your question about counting the stitches in the corners of the granny squares. Since corners are often an odd # of stitches, there's a 'middle' stitch - if you assign the middle stitch to the side seam, not the hem, the edge will turn slightly toward your body, which is preferable to slightly flipping away.
  8. Welcome to the 'ville! Could you post a photo of what you have so far? Are the stitch counts what they are supposed to be? Are you using the so-called c2c stitch? (corner to corner construction can be almost any stitch)
  9. Hi, welcome to the 'ville! Normally the way you'd make a ribbed cuff sleeve is start with the cuff, and work the sleeve up from the cuff, which gives you a nice eased transition from cuff to sleeve so you can get your hand comfortably thru the transition point. If you have already made the sweater, I'd add a couple of rounds drastically reducing the opening (like, sc-2-together, sc in the next 2 stitches, repeat -- this will turn 4 stitches into 3, so will reduce the opening by 1/4th; maybe repeat that once and see how it goes, or change the # of plain stitches between the increases if you'd rather. Make sure you have room to put your hand thru with room to spare, the cuff will draw it in some and you don't want it tight there. Have you made a ribbed cuff before? It's easy, make a chain the length you want the cuff to be, turn, SC in the back loop only across - repeat until you have a rectangle you can wrap it around your wrist comfortably, and sew the short ends together, then sew the cuff to the sleeve--don't pull your stitches super tight attaching to the sweater, make sure the seam stretches with the stitches.
  10. BGS, We posted at the same time. Thanks for mentioning the row/round thing, I was going to point that out but then got wrapped up in the math.
  11. I've straightened out your pattern so we don't have to turn our heads. Something is amiss (but not necessarily in a bad way) with your piece, it looks like you are working into 1 loop when you make your stitches. If you work in the back loop only, it makes ribbing (would look like a fan-fold ^^^^^^ if you look at the sides), but it's not looking like it's contracting like ribbing - are you by chance working in the front loop only? If you look at your fabric, and the pattern photo, yours has horizontal lines - which is not a bad thing, it looks nice, but it isn't 'conventional' SC. If you work in 1 loop of the stitch, it leaves the other loop free (the horizontal line), which can be a decorative element. I like the look of the fabric - it also makes it easier to count rows, each ridge is 2 rows apart. So, to count - the picture pf your piece appears to be wrong side up. Not counting the ridge at the very bottom of your photo, I'm counting 14 ridges, which would be 28 rows, and there is another row above the top ridge, so 29 rows so far. Round 36 (working around the square) is the hard part, it says to place 25 sc across each edge, and you have 27 stitches across, and will have 35 rows when you finish up to that point of the pattern. Across, you only have to skip 2 stitches; typically you'd spreading them in an even-ish way across, like this -.-.- , where the dots are the skipped stitches, and the dashes are 1 stitch into 1 stitch--see how this gives you three 1:1 stitch areas, so I'd divide 25 by 3...which doesn't quite work evenly to 8, but I'd make 7 sc, skip 1, 8 sc, skip 1, 7 sc-- this will use up 25 stitches and is as evenly spaced as possible. Along the sides, you have a much greater gap - you have to subtract 10 stitches out of 35, and although SC is a little shorter than wide, I'd worry this might pucker. But, Here's the sketch, which will be 10 skipped stitches and 11 groups of plain stitches (the same number of skipped stitches, plus 1, so not-skipped stitches are at each end) : -.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- 25 divided by 10 is 2.5, so I'd alternate skipping after 2 sc, then after 3 sc, so-- (3sc, skip1)+(2sc, skip1) uses 7, leaves 5, balance 28 (3sc, skip1)+(2sc, skip1) uses 7, leaves 5, balance 21 (3sc, skip1)+(2sc, skip1) uses 7, leaves 5, balance 14 (3sc, skip1)+(2sc, skip1) uses 7, leaves 5, balance 7 (3sc, skip1)+(2sc, skip1) uses 7, leaves 5, balance zero - but notice you are ending with a skip 1, which if it were a row would be a problem, but you are working in the round. I'm not sure if this would cause the corner to not lie flat.
  12. You're welcome, happy to help
  13. Welcome to the 'ville! The pattern is written in 3 sizes so this is not a typo. In that spot you do not do anything for the smallest size, but you would for larger sizes. You'd read this as: small size stitch count(medium size stitch count, large size stitch count). So, for the smallest size only you ignore the (0, 2, 2) and skip to the right size of the next instruction - 2dc in 5(6,6). However, if you are making one of the larger sizes, you need to do what it says in the next 2 stitches. This also applies for the chain of 8(10,12), so did you make the right # of chains for the size you were aiming for?
  14. Hi, and welcome to the 'ville! This is a 10 year old post so the OP may not see this. I'd think your idea might get you close to the right size, but not exactly. As in, "maybe an H, but could be G or I" sort of thing. I agree with the above posters, the surest solution is a gauge swatch with possible hook sizes using the same stitch pattern and see which matches up best.
  15. Kelvweb, I'm glad you managed to contact the designer but if she does write up the pattern, she owns the copyright to it and it would be illegal to post it here without her express permission. If she posts it on her blog or on Facebook, you could post a link to her posting which is OK, because she has authorized it's viewing there, but you can't copy the pattern itself and post it elsewhere legally.
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