Granny Square

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About Granny Square

  • Rank
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  • Ravelry ID
    Granny-Square
  • Location
    Pacific Northwest
  • Interests
    Crochet, Sewing
  • Occupation
    Semi-retired
  • How long have you been crocheting?
    1970's Granny Square era ;)
  • Favorite things to crochet
    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  1. awww...
  2. Yay! That's going to be a cute blanket
  3. You're welcome! Second question first - you will be working a DC either into a DC, or into a chain-1 space, depending. You'd work a chain-1 'in the air' over a DC, the way the pattern is written (more on that below, about appearance of stitches made on front and back side and if you want to change that) if there is a grey square (2 DC) over a white square (chain 1, DC 1) you'll work one of the DCs into a DC and the other DC into the chain space. You could either insert the hook into the chain itself (I use the back loop when working into the chain), or stick the hook under the chain and work the DC around the chain. I didn't want to get into this in my first response because I didn't want to confuse you, but...I am used to doing traditional filet which is graphed like your star, except with square grids because each grid is 3 stitches, either 3 dc or 2 chains and 1 DC. I think this 2 stitch graph would mess me up because I'm used to reading the squares in a different way. I think I'd probably re-graph it, honestly, to show each stitch versus squares of 2 stitches. - doing this might help you keep your stitch count better. If you've printed this out, you could just take a pencil and draw 2 lines in each grey square (each line representing a DC), and a line and a dot in each white square (dot for the chain). Another thing that I didn't mention before because of potential confusion - you're working back and forth, so if you are looking at the front, the stitches made back side facing will appear to be going in the opposite direction, right? So from the front, an eyelet square made with the front side facing is chain 1, DC reading right to left (the direction the front side is crocheted). But an eyelet square made as chain 1, DC on the back side, when viewed from the front, appears as Dc, chain 1. So if you have eyelet squares over eyelet squares, as in the middle of the star, a column of stitches would be DC, chain, Dc, chain, etc. -- the eyelets (chains and DCs) are staggered, instead of being on top of each other. Nothing wrong with this, in fact it probably looks better this way, but it might add to the count issues and 'where am I in the chart?' issues. Maybe. I'm just throwing this out there so you are aware of what you are looking at. You could also choose to put the eyelets in a column if you want...not sure which would help you keep your place better, or looks better to you. Another thought is to just re-write it, if you are more comfortable with written patterns. Example, as row 2 is written out in the pattern already; the next 2 rows written out would be (ignoring turning chains) Row 3: 6 dc, [ch1, DC] twice, 10 dc,[ ch1, dc] twice, 6 dc. Row 4: 6 dc, [ch1, DC]3 times, 6 dc,[ ch1, dc] 3 times, 6 dc. All I did was counted the squares and multiplied the grey ones by 2 for the DC stitch count, and described the white ones and gave the number of white squares for the repeat. Good luck, I hope I didn't throw too much at you.
  4. This is an eyelet pattern, where the star shape is made by chaining 1 and skipping 1 DC to make the eyelet holes. Nowhere are you putting 2 stitches into 1--the stitch count stays the same in each row. Also, the eyelets begin in row 2, not 3. Look at the key for the chart. Each block on the chart is 2 stitches, either 2 DC (1 DC into each of 2 DCs in the row below) or chain 1, skip 1 DC in the row below and DC into the next DC. See how the written directions for row 2 starts with 'DC in the next 6 DC--but looking at the chart there are 3 (not 6) grey blocks before the eyelet? Each grey block is 2 DC. I have a trick that helps me follow charts like this - I'm old-fashioned and print out my patterns, and I use another piece of paper or flat ruler to cover up the rows of the chart ABOVE the current row I'm working on (I use a clip board to keep the paper/ruler in place). This way the squares that you can see in the chart match what you've already made--this helps as a double check to ensure you haven't strayed (I hope this makes sense). This is a fairly simple shape, and the same in both directions so it may be a bit of overkill in this case, but it couldn't hurt.
  5. Lovely set and thanks for telling us where you found that pom-pom edging here's the link for anyone else wondering -- I love learning new things -- so simple, but pure genius!
  6. That came out nicely! Love the colors and lining, it looks really sturdy
  7. Pretty pattern! The US Standard yarn weight designation of this yarn is #2 weight (the '2' in the little ball of yarn graphic under 'materials), and it also is referring to '2 ply' yarn, which literally means the number of single ply yarn threads twisted together to manufacture this yarn. In the US this weight of yarn is commonly called Sport weight. Below is a link showing US yarn weight descriptions. The yarn weight in your kit coincidentally has 2 plies and is #2 US weight, but literal plies and yarn weight don't correspond in modern terms -- you can have 6-ply tiny doily thread, and 1 ply super bulky yarn nowadays. https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/yarn-weight-system I'm mentioning all the above because I'm guessing the description of 2 ply is making you think you are to use 2 balls of yarn at once - no, just 1. The pattern would have told you to 'hold 2 strands together' if you were were supposed to do this. You will be working with 1 strand only.
  8. You're welcome! It really is a great deal, it seems to me the 'Around the Corner' sale I'd found before was $2.99 (still better than reg price of $15.95)
  9. I happened to stumble across this today, both of these are $0.99 on Kindle books right now (not sure for how long). I'd already bought the Around the Corner Borders book on sale a while back, but just snagged the Beyond the Squares one. Well written directions and diagrams. You can get the Kindle reader app for free for PCs and tablets. https://www.amazon.com/Beyond-Square-Crochet-Motifs-unexpected-ebook/dp/B007X3DQGM/ref=sr_1_6?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1525794162&sr=1-6&keywords=edie+eckman https://www.amazon.com/Around-Corner-Crochet-Borders-Instructions-ebook/dp/B0042JSMV4/ref=sr_1_5?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1525794162&sr=1-5&keywords=edie+eckman
  10. Thanks for bumping this pattern, I must have missed it the first time around. It's great she provided a chart as well. I don't make a lot of blankets, but I'm thinking 1 column of hearts would be great for a scarf (might want to reverse direction mid-way so the ends come out matching), and maybe 2 hearts high by x around for a hat...hmm...
  11. She is absolutely adorable!
  12. What a cute idea!
  13. Love this!
  14. This shortcut phrasing comes up in crochet patterns as well--sometimes it will say 'continue in established pattern' to make it a little clearer.. Some sort of overall stitch pattern has been established before this point - a ripple, cables, ribbing, lace, whatever. It just means to follow that pattern without increasing or decreasing for x rows, inches or stitches until it tells you to do something else. Is it a pattern on the net? We could point you to the 'pattern' more specifically.
  15. Holy smokes, that's bigger than a lot of houses (1311 sq ft).