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Granny Square

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About Granny Square

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A Few Things About Me

  • Ravelry ID
  • Location
    Pacific Northwest
  • Hobbies
    Crochet, Sewing
  • Occupation
    Semi-retired
  • Favorite hook type
    Aluminum
  • Favorite projects
    Lately inspired by the 'ville!
  • Crocheting since...
    1970's Granny Square era ;)

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  1. Her patterns are exquisite, thanks for posting!
  2. OH! Hi there, I just answered your question in the other thread you tagged onto. Actually seeing this part of the pattern, it makes more more sense. What you wrote in the other thread was confusion about "*1dc. In 2dc.,2dc. In next DC." , and I focused on the odd periods and misread 'in' as, well, 'in' not 'increase' but...never mind. What round 4 is saying is *chain 1, 1 dc in (each of the next 2) dc, (make) 2dc in (the) next DC,
  3. Hi Kelmd89, welcome to the 'ville! Take a look at your other post, I've edited this one as my answer in the other post is more concise after seeing a bit more of the pattern wording!
  4. Wow. This is a really awesome idea! And it looks like you are 99% there. I'm thinking that less is more (and this is just my own design aesthetic--quiz 100 of us and you will probably have 100 different ideas). Only 2 stitches between cables would lessen the impact of the cables IMO. I think they make a dramatic statement with their current spacing, or close to it. Or maybe something like a straight (well, diagonal) 1 or 2 post stitch line centered between the cables. There's something off though. The cables meet in different rows in the bottom 2 cable rows but the third cable set does seem to come together in a more logical way. This is old school (but quicker than trial and error crocheting); I would be taking pencil and paper and sketching out scenarios to make the cables look like they branch out logically from the center; the cables should meet each other mirror imaged on either side of the spine. In fact I'd draw it from the center to the edge so you don't have to guess where they meet.
  5. That's hilarious (that the fitbit 'thinks that way'), but also very cool. Crochet as an aerobic workout, who knew?
  6. What a cute little owl! 🦉 Normal crochet pattern 'grammar' is, if a pattern says something like - "x sc, increase" it means "make 1 sc into each of the next x stitches, increase into the following stitch". An 'increase' is most typically an increase by 1, by putting 2 stitches into 1 stitch; if it is different (a greater increase), it should specifically say "(a specific number) of stitches into the next stitch". When I'm working something in the round like this, if the instruction is "3, sc, increase", I count as I go -- "1, 2, 3, in-crease" for example, where the first 3 stitches are 1 stitch into 1 stitch, and in the forth stitch "in" is the first stitch of the increase, and "crease" is the second stitch of the increase. Sort of silly, but it works. I assume you are starting either at the top of his head, or at the bottom. At some point the increase 'pattern' is going to stop or slow down for a while as you form his body and head, there may be no increases for a while. Tip: mark the first stitch of each row with a stitch marker (I like bobby pins as they don't snag, safety pins work, some like to use a short length of yarn) so you don't lose your place. Also, I use paper patterns so either tick off each finished pattern line use a sticky or a 'sticky flag' to mark my place so I know where I left off; not sure what the equivalent would working from a device.
  7. Hi and welcome to the 'ville! This pattern is written in a sort of 'shorthand'. It looks like you are working int a circle, from the center out, maybe making a hat or toy? When you make a circle, you start with a number of stitches in a ring, and add that number to every subsequent round. For SC, that number is usually 6. Round 1 was probably: make a ring of some sort Round 2 was probably: work 6 sc in a ring [6]. Total of 6 stitches - that's what the number in brackets is, the # of stitches you should have in that round at the end (sort of a sanity check) Round 3 was probably: sc in first stitch, increase in next, repeat around [12] Round 4 was probably: sc in next 2 stitches, increase in next, repeat around [18] See the pattern? The first round is 6, next round doubles it to 12 (increasing in every stitch), then each round adds 1 non-increase stitch between increases; in other words, for sc there are always 6 stitches in each round, but they get spaced farther and farther apart.
  8. Wonderful visit to your house as always!
  9. Nice color combo, and it fits nicely!
  10. Granny Square

    Randi

    What yarn was it? Not that this is the only yarn where this might happen, but several years ago I used Lion Brand 'Homespun' yarn to make a long sweater coat using a Lion Brand pattern calling out that yarn. The pattern actually said at a certain point to stop and hang up the piece and leave it for a couple of days because it would grow! Unfortunately, although I did do that it continued to grow quite a bit by the time I threw it out (did not hold up well, even ignoring the stretching). It's basically acrylic 'roving' (unspun fluff) held together by a sewing thread wrapped around it. The stitch I used was a 'woven stitch' which was basically sc, chain 1, repeat, then next row sc in the chain and chain over the sc, so since it was a little lacy that might have contributed to the sagging. My tension isn't loose (it's a tad on the tight side, at least comparing my gauge to most patterns I've picked) but the yarn is a bulky weight so took a large hook. On the other hand I've made cardigans and pullover tops (knit and crochet) with plain Red Heart Super Saver and haven't had them change size in the least. I'm not saying that brand is perfect, or that acrylic is (the Homespun was acrylic too) but RHSS is consistently plied and spun and a medium weight yarn and doesn't seem to 'grow'. I don't think that the stitch you used made a difference necessarily, as I've made wearables incorporating DC that is a looser stitch than HDC that haven't grown either. It might be your stitch tension, the stitch pattern (solid versus lacy) or the nature of the yarn used. Aside from switching patterns and yarns, the only other thing I can think of is making it considerably shorter to start with, or see if the 'hang it and let it grow' thing works..
  11. Beautiful! I love your 'not quite a cable', very unusual.
  12. Thanks Reni. I was thinking back to my beginning days of crochet, and I tried a lot of 'creative' ideas back then that sometimes didn't work, but just with hook and yarn it was just a matter of unravelling yarn to undo it, and no harm done. But in the OP's case, a cardigan has been potentially been compromised. To the OP, I've been thinking about your project since my first post....have you started in a spot on the cardigan where it would make sense to put just a funky edging? Like around the neckline, or hem? If so, what if...you rip out the fringe knots you've made into the fabric, and create a crochet fabric piece to sew over the area of fabric that's now got holes in it? Example, use rest of the yarn you've been doing short tufts with and make a strip of loop stitches, or find some eyelash yarn. Just a thought. Here is a tutorial on loop stitch https://www.interweave.com/article/crochet/loop-stitch-tutorial/ In the first step, the 'odd part' is described at the end of step 1 and the beginning of step 2. If it makes you feel better, I've been crocheting 50 years and don't do this stitch very often, I always have to find a tutorial so I don't mess it up. I've never done so, but supposedly you can cut the loops if you've done the steps correctly (and this site confirms it...try a swatch first!!) When I've done loop stitch, I've made a little paper 'sizer' to make the loops around - fold a small piece of paper over a few times, to the height you want your stitches. One source for eyelash yarn so you can see what it looks like - I've only used it a few times, you used to be able to find in in stores but not so much any more. https://www.yarn-paradise.com/eyelash_yarns It's a little difficult to crochet with by itself, a bit easier to wrangle if you pair it with a strand of plain yarn, in other words hold 2 strands together as you go.
  13. Welcome to the 'ville! Since you have only been crocheting a couple of days, I totally understand that you don't have the experience to appreciate that this wasn't going to be practical, unless you were making a wall decoration maybe that would never be washed or worn. 1) Yes, some yarn is 'slicker' than others, and yours looks shiny from the photo and looks slippery. 2) Never tie knots in crochet. Really. No, I'm serious. They WILL come undone. The way to secure the ends in crocheted fabric is to leave at least 6" to weave in the end invisibly with a needle, you don't even want to crochet over ends as that isn't very secure. 3) Glue? No. 4) If you are going to make fringe, you want to cut the yarn no less than 10" long, so your fringe ends up about 5" long. This is really on the short side, the longer the better for staying put and not coming undone and falling off. Normally you'd only put fringe on the very edge of something, not overall. There are 'eyelash' (hairy looking) yarns for a shaggy look to make something from scratch, or to add to an existing item for an edging. 5) You don't 'knot' fringe. You fold the yarn in half, put the hook in the fold, stick the hook in the loop of the thing you are attaching the fringe to, and pull the ends thru the loop in the fringe and the 'thing'. Like a latch hook rug, if you have ever done that. And if you have, you'd realize how HEAVY and unwearable that would be--great for rugs, bad for garments. Looking closer at your photos, I am assuming that you are past the point of no return from what I can see of the fabric underneath (meaning, the fabric will be ruined if you take the yarn out now). The only thing I can think of, and this will be horribly tedious, is to go back and darn every knot with sewing thread that matches the background fabric. Another way to get a shaggy look making an item from scratch would be to make it with a loop stitch. It is a little tricky, and maybe not for beginners - it is a little odd even for experienced crocheters as there is a non-intuitive detail in the 'hook motion' that is essential to secure the loop. I know I'm sounding lecture-y, but it's too bad you didn't come here before starting your project. Crochet is about creating fabric from scratch. It can be crocheted onto to a garment at an edge like a collar, cuffs, hem, or crocheted separately and sewn on (like a lace bodice over a little black dress, or an applique), but really it isn't normally created on a substrate of fabric--I've never seen anything done that way in the decades I've been crocheting. I've seen freeform items where fabric is 'patched in', but that's attaching at the edge.
  14. What is it made of? If it's acrylic, keep the iron in the closet. Or, make some swatches and play with 'killing them', but it destroys the yarn (IMHO). The plastic doesn't melt into molten goo, but it deforms into a crunchy limp non stretchy fabric. Others may tell you that 'killing' acrylic is the bees knees, but...try it first on a swatch. A shawl wouldn't be the worst thing to 'kill' because non-stretchy woven shawls are functional as well, but you wouldn't want to kill a garment like a hat or pullover because it won't stretch or retract any more. You don't need to stretch things to block them. You know when you buy a garment and it says 'hand wash, lay flat to dry?' Do the 'lay flat to dry' part. Lay down a clean 'tarp' (or plastic tablecloth - I have used a clear tablecloth I found at the Dollar Store, which are almost as thin as saran wrap but works fine) on the top of a guest bed, or floor, wet the shawl, gently squeeze excess water out and pat it into shape and let it air dry--if you have rust proof pins you can pin to shape or to emphasize lace, but you don't have to stretch it. You can take a hair drier at a distance to speed drying, that won't kill acrylic if you keep the heat far enough away. Or all of the above will work with cotton or wool, as well. I've blocked wool prior to seaming--no stretching just the 'wetting patting it nicely into shape' as you described - neatening it like that it helps tame it a bit for sewing up.
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