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darski

PJ-Partay- 18" doll Image INTENSE

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PJ Par-tay… 18” doll :pinterest
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The PDF is here: PJs 18inch doll.pdf

You need coordinating colours of WW yarn and some fake fur yarn as well.

Hooks: 4.5mm, 5.mm and 8.mm

Elastic waistband and various buttons, trims and ties. You also need a small amount of stuffing for the pillow. I had some poly batting to hand but yarn ends work just as well.

I should mention… The jammies looked really cute in real life but in the pics the patterning of the varigated yarn is not so good looking.


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Bottoms…

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WW yarn and 5.mm hook

The yarn for the jammies is a RH Jeweltone yarn – Alabaster



Legs… DNBO after 2nd leg.

Ch 19…

Row 1-5: dc evenly

Rows 6-10: inc by one at beginning or end on ea row

Your Torso rows begin and end at Centre Front.

T Row 1: Align the two legs and join with 6 sc, ch 1. Begin working in dc around the leg sections, Put the first dc in the same stitch as the sc join.

It might be helpful here to go to the back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 7 from the Centre Back join on each side.

Dc to your first marker… work [2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc] over the five stitches, work 1 TR into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in dc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join.

Row T2-T4: work evenly in dc.

Row T5: work dc but work 1 decrease on each side of back (2 decreases).

Row T6: work a row of sc around an elastic waistband. Join. Break off and tidy all ends.


Top…
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Ch 52 and join to form ring

Row 1: dc evenly

Rows 2-5: dc making 2 dec per row. Stagger the dec.
From now on you will be working in rows and not rounds. Do not join…

Row 6 and 8: turn, sc evenly.

Row 7 and 9: turn, dc evenly.

Row 10: sc in 9, ch 10, sk 4, sc in 19, ch 10, sk 4, sc in 9,

Row 11: dc in 8, dc dec 6 times, dc in 17, dc dec 6 times, dc in 8, turn … you work in the sc and the chains.

Row 12: sc evenly.

Row 13: work in dc. Make 2 dec on each back section and 3 dec at front.

Trim row…

Sc down rt back edge working button loops if you want them. Sc along left back edge then work a[sc, ch 3] mesh along the neck edge. Sew on buttons and weave a yarn twist through ch 3 loops at neck.


Slippers…

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w/ WW yarn and 4.5mm hook ch 6

Row 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in 1, hdc in 2, 6 hdc in last, hdc in 2. sc in 1, 1 more sc in beg st. join

Row 2: hdc in 1st. 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 3, 2 hdc in next 5, hdc in 3, 2 hdc in next 2. break off and tidy all ends.

Tops… w/ 2 strands of fake fur and a 5.mm hook. Att yarn at heel of slipper. Have slipper w/ good side down and work on the inside of the slipper to get the best effect of the fake fur.

Row 1:hdc in ea st. join

Row 2: hdc in 1, hdc dec in next. you are seriously into Braille crochet at this point.

Row 3: sc dec, sc in next 2, sc dec 5 times, sc to last 2, sc dec

Sleep Roll…

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2 strands of WW yarn and 8.mm hook

Ch 21, hdc in 2nd ch from hook.
Work evenly in hdc for as many rows as you like for your length.

Last row: sc in 3, ch 21 (or what works for you) sk to last 3 sts. Sc in 3. Break off and tidy ends.

Ties … with suitable yarn, ch 25, sc [as shown] in roll, ch 25 more and break off.



Pillow…


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Ch 18..
Work sc around chain with 2 sc in each end.

Row 2: again work in sc increasing by 2 at each end.

Continue to work in sc in a spiral without joining until the pillow is the size you want.

Stuff lightly and sc the open end closed. Work a row of some trim style. I did my old faithful ch3 loops. :wlol


Duffle bag…

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w/ WW yarn and 4.5mm hook ch 22

round 1: 3 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc to last ch, 5 hdc in last, sc back to beg st, 2 more hdc in beg ch.


round 2-4: work in hdc increasing at ea end to keep piece flat. Break off and tidy ends.

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Set up your piece as if it were a finished duffle (as in pic) to determine where your ends would be. Att yarn and work across in hdc joining to the sides as you go. Work enough rows to ‘finish’ the side.

Repeat on the other side but continue in hdc to form the covering to go over the other side. Work the last row in sc and make button loops as you go.


NOTES for the blue pj set.

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I started the same (ch 52) but only worked 3 decrease rows. The rows of white sc (worked evenly) seemed to make this a better plan.

For the sleeves, I worked a ch 12 instead of the ch 10. I wanted more ease there. I then worked more decreases at the neckline and did not need to use the tie to bring in the neckline.





Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2010

I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.

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Edited by darski
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Hi, i love your blue pj pattern i was wondering if i could get the full pattern so i could make it for my 5yr old daughter. thank you.

 

I'm sorry but I wrote that ages ago and I no longer have the outfit to count it out.

 

You can just as easily make the main version but add in the details from the blue/white one.

 

BTW... the reason for the trims is that I had to add a new skein and I always just add trims to the ends and call them finished. You can easily just tie in some trims instead.

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Hi!  I really like your patterns.  I have a question about the slipper tops, Row 2: hdc in 1, hdc dec in next. you are seriously into Braille crochet at this point.      There are only 2 crochet stitches for this row.  The part I have underlined and highlighted doesn't finish the row.  I don't know what you mean.  What is the rest of the pattern for this row?

Thank you, for your patterns. Dixie B

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When working with eyelash yarn it's really hard to see the stitches (even more with eyelash held doubled as it is here, I imagine).  I think the Braille comment was a humorous warning to convey that you'll be 'feeling' your way to make your stitches as much as seeing. 

The instruction is the first part - I'd read it as '*2 HDC in 1, 1 HDC in next; repeat around the sole'.

 

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Thank you for your reply.  I may be pulling my hair out by the time I get done with the eyelash yarn.  But what we wouldn't do for our Grand-daughters.                                                                                                                                                                                                One more question:                                                                                                                                                                                                    This is what the pattern says:

Row 2: hdc in 1, hdc dec in next. you are seriously into Braille crochet at this point.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  But in your reply you have:                                                                                                                                                                                     Row 2: '*2 HDC in 1, 1 HDC in next,* repeat * * around the sole'.   This row isn't a decrease row like the pattern says?                       Sorry about this, but I just want to make sure.

 Thank you again,  Dixie

Edited by dlbert
It wasn't aligned.

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OOOPS!!  I'm sorry, it was only a 2 stitch repeat and I managed to mess up both of them.  (apparently added the row # "2" to the first stitch, and missed typing "DEC" on the second).  (headslap)

Just follow the direction that Darski wrote and ignore the 'braille warning' after.  It's just alternating 1 plain HDC with 1 HDC decrease.

At least the hairy yarn is only 3 little rows...hang in there!  Your Granddaughter will be thrilled I'm sure..

 

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