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Undecided - Started


Ina McNees

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Hey everyone, 

  I just began Crocheting maybe about 3 months ago. I was taught by my mom several years ago on how to make a double crochet blanket. But... because I always seemed to make my stitches too tight I got frustrated and gave up. When I started back up I had to learn it all again. I found You Tube video's and taught myself. I to this day have not finished a blanket. Below are some of the Projects I started just haven't finished. 

 

1. 'Pretty N Pink' & 'Paddy Green': I got up to appx. 23"

2. 'Royal Blue' & 'White': I got up to appx. 32"

3. 'Amethyst' & 'Shocking Pink' & 'White':(small) I got up to appx. 5"

4. 'Amethyst' & 'Shocking Pink' & 'White': (Med.) I got up to appx. 15"

 

When I first started 3 Months ago a started with a single stitch crochet. Now I have moved on to... actually I am not sure what the pattern is called. 

 

It would be awesome if I could get some opinions on whether they a good or not. 

 

 

 

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Yes, that's the classic granny square stitch.  The colors are really pretty and your stitching is pretty even.  However, I noticed that you don't turn your work.  Granny Square is brilliant at explaining this, but I'm going to try to give it a shot, since I'm not sure where her post is about turning large granny squares.

 

For small granny squares that you join, it doesn't matter if you turn them or not.  For giant granny squares, like what you're doing, you should turn your work at the end of every round.  Crochet stitches have a bias.

 

If you don't turn, it looks like this and the corners become wonky  ...

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If you turn, it looks like this and the corners will lay flat and be sharp ...

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 I was not aware of the the turning when working with the granny square. I just figured I was making the stitches too tight. Are you saying that it won't gap on the sides if I turn? I will have to try it. Are you talking about turning every time I change a color or every time I finish a round?

 

I am still trying to grasp the terms of crocheting. 

 

Thank you! Any suggestions are appreciated! 

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I find that i  don't always have to turn after every round, but I think it may depend on the yarn and the specific pattern, and of course individaul gauge is maybe the biggest factor.  

You could probably start turning now if you want to.

 

I am not sure exactly what you mean by gap at the sides?  

 

And welcome to the ville! 

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Turning will help with the sides laying flat.  I turn at the end of each round.  Ch 3, turn, 2 dc, work the round.  Others turn every couple of rounds.  Kathy (magiccrochetfan) has a lot more experience than I do, so I'd take her advice and just start turning the rounds now. 

 

Another trick to get them to lay flatter is to turn and add an sc round.  An sc round on the wrong side hides a multitude of things.  :)

 

I hope this helps!

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Redroses is talking about turning rounds to keep the look of the square from skewing. For smaller squares you're OK. For larger ones, as they grow, the rounds look like they skew out of alignment, even if the stitch count is exact. Turning the rounds corrects this look.

 

For the ruffling at the edges, it's either too many stitches, and as you see, will get worse with each roound, or it's just from handling that particular yarn.

 

Some yarns stretch more than others and will stretch a tiny bit every time you pick up and move your piece. You can't pull or haul on your work at all as you go around or turn, and you have to do a tight edging. This also happens more when using longer stitches. I've developed a habit of putting my hands under my work and lifting it to turn it, rather than just grabbing it on top and flipping it.

 

Another way to correct the situation is to rip back to where it starts to ruffle. While going around the next round, I do one decrease on each side where the ruffling was starting. That should correct it. If as the rounds grow, I need to do it again, then I do. Take a good look at your particular work and gauge. There are times a stitch needs to come out of each corner even though you could be following a pattern exactly as stated. The bottom line is you adjust it where it needs it.

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I'm a fan of turning my granny squares every time, also!  That way--you don't have a wrong side or right side, either!

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The skewing is evident a tiny bit on #1, but more so on #3 and#4 (#2 is too small to be obvious).  Look at the middle versus the outside rings, #3 looks like you turned the middle to the left a little and #4 looks like you turned the middle to the right.  (It appears #1 and #3 have been photographed 'wrong' side up; the skewing as you made them is the same).

 

I think ruffling may have to do with how high a person makes their stitches.  Just like everybody has a different tension, different people pull their stitches up higher than others.  A well known designer wrote about this here .  In general, ruffling happens when working in the round, and the edge (circumference) is too big for the diameter.  To fix it you need to add diameter, or decrease the number of stitches around.  Diameter may be too small if your stitches are short (mine are, too, I'm a 'yanker').   Granny square patterns have variations, probably based on the designer's tension: some patterns have a chain between each set of 3 DC on the sides, some have no chains; some have 1, 2, or 3 chains in the corners.  You may have to experiment to see what fits your stitch style the best.  I've never thought to add a round of SC every so often on a granny square (I've done something similar many times for doilies), that's a good idea and would be visually interesting.  If I were to do that, I'd put only 1 chain, or maybe zero, in the corners of the round before the sc round so you end up with fewer stitches.

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i agree on the turning, but i usually do it about i dunno, round six or so, and then every other round, not every round, and that works for me, but you will find what works best for you,. Don't give up, we are all learning as we go too!!

 

Yes, that's the classic granny square stitch.  The colors are really pretty and your stitching is pretty even.  However, I noticed that you don't turn your work.  Granny Square is brilliant at explaining this, but I'm going to try to give it a shot, since I'm not sure where her post is about turning large granny squares.

 

For small granny squares that you join, it doesn't matter if you turn them or not.  For giant granny squares, like what you're doing, you should turn your work at the end of every round.  Crochet stitches have a bias.

 

If you don't turn, it looks like this and the corners become wonky  ...

///////////

//////////

//////////

 

If you turn, it looks like this and the corners will lay flat and be sharp ...

///////////

\\\\\\\\\\\

///////////

and i love how you explained and diagrammed this!!

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i agree on the turning, but i usually do it about i dunno, round six or so, and then every other round, not every round, and that works for me, but you will find what works best for you,. Don't give up, we are all learning as we go too!!

 

and i love how you explained and diagrammed this!!

 

I can't take credit for the diagram or explanation.  They both came from our resident granny square expert, Granny Square.  :)

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Thank You all for the help and suggestions. 

 

I wouldn't know what the wrong side is. They seem to both look the same to me. I suppose I have got a lot to learn. It will be nice when I can finish at least one project.

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The right side is the side facing you as you start a project (row 1 or round 1.)  If you don't turn, it's always the side facing you.  The wrong side is the back.  Right side and wrong side are the easiest to spot when you're doing double crochets.  On the right side, the stitch looks like intertwined yarn.  On the wrong side, it looks like little loops of yarn.  I can't tell with the blue and white, but the other 3 pictures are all showing the right side.

 

If you turn granny squares every other row, then it is reversible and there is no right or wrong side.

 

Until you get used to the difference, it's best to use a marker on the first stitch to mark the right side.  That way you'll know and can weave in your ends on the wrong side.  A marker can be as simple as a piece of yarn in a contrasting color to the markers found in the yarn notions (hooks, needles, etc.) section of the store.  Just don't use the plastic round circles, since they are for knitting only.  I use safety pins.  I've also read that bobby pins work well, too.

 

By the way, I can tell that you've learned a lot already!  It won't take you long to get there.  Like anything else, the more you know, the easier it becomes.  I can't wait to see one of your finished projects!

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What I look for, to determine the wrong side of DCs (or taller stitches) are the bottoms of the stitches - they seem to stick out more, forming a ridge, on the wrong side--it's more evident when stitches are made over a chain space than into other stitches.

 

It's sort of subtle, and nothing wrong with the 'wrong' side, I was just pointing it out because your squares weren't all leaning the same way.

 

I made a swatch for another thread to show how the lean works in real life - it shows up more in taller stitches

 

I believe the top row is the 'wrong' side.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Beautiful job!! You are doing fantastic, don't give up. You can find all the help and advice you could ever need or want here in this friendly place.

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  • 6 months later...

Hello Everyone,

    I am so excited because I finally finished a project. The Afghan (purple,pink,white) is now 46" x 46"!  I decided to make it for my niece. I believe I did pretty good for this being my first project.

 

 

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