• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About redrosesdz

  • Rank
    Junior Villager
  • Birthday 12/27/1961


  • Real Name
  • Biography
    I have 2 sons and 1 granddaughter and 2 grandsons.
  • Location
  • Favorite things to crochet
    Anything new

Recent Profile Visitors

735 profile views
  1. I agree that it depends. However, there's nothing wrong with experimenting. I've used different textured yarn for patterns that called for standard plied yarn with mixed results. (Using different textures is similar to using different fibers.) I've made some chenille items that turned out beautifully. I've also started projects and after a while realized that the yarn wasn't right for the pattern. What do you have in mind? It sounds like you picked a pattern and found yarn that you like, but they don't match. What's the pattern? What's the yarn?
  2. ^what she said for wearables that need to fit. Scarves, shawls, ponchos, etc. are more like non-wearables in that they don't have to match the pattern gauge exactly. However matching close to the pattern gauge for non-wearables is needed to get the same approximate size listed for the final product. The bigger the product, the more the final size will be different. As GS said, different yarns listed in the same weight class, like medium/worsted/4, can have very different thicknesses. For example, I am making the same afghan for my granddaughter and grandsons in different colors, using 2 different brands, all worsted weight. The first was a thicker yarn. The second one was a thinner yarn. I used the same hook. The second one came out 6" narrower and 12" shorter. I put a bigger border around the 2nd one to get it the same size. When you do a swatch for the pattern gauge use the yarn you plan to use for the project. Then go up a hook size, if it's too small. Go down a hook size, if it's too big. Keep making the swatch with different hook sizes until you match the pattern's gauge.
  3. They're wonderful! I love the matching flowers on the basket. You have a talent for details that turn good projects into great ones.
  4. So sweet! Was it a simple to read pattern? The reason I'm asking is for those who come here and say this is my first crochet project and then ask questions about a super complex amigurumi. It would be nice to point them to something small with fewer joins.
  5. Awww, he's adorable!
  6. Welcome to Crochetville! Are you turning, just like when you did when you finished each row of the afghan? Odd rows are done with the right side of the afghan facing you. They are made from the outside edge in towards the afghan. Even rows are done with the wrong side of the afghan facing you. They are made away from the afghan, towards the outside edge. Row 1: do the 5 dc stitches, ch2, attach to afghan. Turn the afghan over. Row 2: ch2, do the 5 dc stitches in the previous row's 5 dc stitches. Turn the afghan over. Row 3: ch5, do the 5 dc stitches in the previous row's 5 dc stitches, ch2, attach to afghan. Turn the afghan over. You're making short rows towards and then away from the afghan. Each row has a 5ch loop at the end. Does this make sense?
  7. Wow! You paint beautifully! The 3d effect is perfect.
  8. I wasn't the one typing at the same time this time (shock!) Lol As you use different yarns keep track of the ones you enjoyed working and produced the results you wanted. You may find that it's a couple of brands that you like. Just because you like or don't like a particular yarn, doesn't mean that someone else feels the same way. Some textured yarn, like chenille, homespun, and roving, are more difficult to work, but that doesn't mean they shouldn't be used. Some of my favorite projects were done with textured yarn. Yarn can even be made out of fabric or plastic bag strips. Here are some tips on yarn...
  9. You're welcome! By the way, those gloves look really stretchy. The wrists are made with blo (back loop only.) Blo is a very stretchy stitch. The hand part is hdc, which can be stretchy when made loosely. You may find that your gloves are stretchy no matter what you do. If you have small hands, try reducing the number of rows in the wrist and the number of stitches in the hand rows.
  10. Welcome to Crochetville! Most yarns are stretchy. Also, most yarn at a big box store, like Michael's, is acrylic or an acrylic blend. Yarn that is loosely wound is stretchier than tightly wound yarn. You can cut down on stretch by using shorter stitches and a tighter tension. Going down in hook size may help. Here's a link for yarn weights and the various names for them on labels... Here's some tips on yarn...
  11. He's SO cute! I'm glad he's out of the patch and living in Amiville.
  12. Welcome to Crochetville! Could you provide a link to the pinterest picture? There's lots of patterns here.
  13. It depends on what you're making and how much of a weight difference there is. Generally, you want to use a weight as close to the pattern recommendation as possible. For wearables that need to fit, yarn weight and gauge are more important than for other things. But, even within a weight class there's a variety of thickness. For example, I made a ww afghan. I then made a 2nd identical afghan using ww of a different brand. The 2nd brand was thinner. I used the same size hook. The 2nd afghan came out much smaller. To get a gauge, make a swatch ~5" square, using the yarn, pattern and hook you intend to use for the project. Measure the middle 4" in both directions and count the rows and stitches (or pattern repeats) to get your gauge. Go down a hook size, if you want it smaller or up a hook size, if you want it bigger. ETA: I forgot to add that stitch complexity makes a difference. Bulky and super bulky yarn look better with simple stitches.
  14. Yes, as long as it's the same number of stitches each round. If you're worried about a seam spiraling around the sleeves, you can turn rounds, just like you do rows. That way the seam will be straight down the underarm.