redrosesdz

Summer colors! Love your August choice ... light, breezy and bright for the triple H. (For those of you not in PA, the daily forecast is always the same, hot, humid & hazy.) Gotta stop this post so I can get an Italian ice from the freezer now. LOL

No post numbers using chrome on my phone, either.

Um... that's what I described back in post 2. Lol

Ratdog, now I want to do that (after all the wrappers are removed!)

Welcome to Crochetville! I looked at the motif diagrams and didn't see any sc#tog, so it might be a translation issue. I see increases. Then again, I'm not that good with diagrams. Unfortunately, you're going to have to remove the link. It shows the whole pattern, which is against forum rules due to copyright violations. What I can do is describe how to do an sc4tog over a chain 2 space. When you're decreasing over a chain space, the chains are included in the count, but not the stitch. Let's say the previous row has sc, ch2, sc and the current row says to sc4tog over the ch-2 sp. You count sc, ch2, sc = 4 stitches. You stitch into the first sc, skip the ch2, stitch into the next sc, and then finish the stitch. (I hope that makes sense!)

Welcome to Crochetville! I answered in your other thread.

I'm not sure what you're asking. Do you need help with cotton yarn weights? They're the same weight system as other fibers ... baby, dk, worsted, etc. Do need help with hook sizes for cotton yarn? The wrappers have suggested hook sizes. Are you really referring to thread sizes? The higher the number, the thinner the thread. 10 is a common size and a bit easier to work, than thinner thread. Recommended hook sizes are on the wrapper. Or are you referring to doll clothes sizes?

It turned out gorgeously! It truly looks like a field of cornflowers. I'm sorry to hear that your DH, and you by proximity, suffered from such a debilitating illness. Your strength shows in your work. Now I know where you gained a lot of that strength.

It made a beautiful scarf!

Woo hoo! I'm glad to hear you're getting the well deserved recognition. The display looks lovely with your gorgeous doilies. The pink one is so different than the ones you usually post. I can't take my eyes off of it.

I know what happened! The post was in the Support Forum section. You can't reply to posts in that section. I reported it to Amy/Donna so that it could be moved to the proper section. I sent nystock a PM, too, with the link above. Nystock: we can link you to the pattern for sale and to similar free patterns, but we're not allowed to recreate the pattern for you. That's against forum rules, due to copyright laws.

That's a lot of yarn! What are you making with it? I went to dinner with a couple ... she crochets and knits. We were on the topic of yarn. He said that his wife had too much yarn. I said, "there's no such thing as too much yarn." She laughed and he rolled his eyes. He didn't know that he was talking to yet another yarn addict. LOL

Most patterns originally done with a solid color can be done with a variegated (multi-color) yarn. I'm not sure what yarn is available in Singapore. I can only talk about US yarn. I'm most familiar with acrylic, worsted weight variegated yarn, sold in big box stores (Walmart, Craft Stores, etc.) It's great for blankets. I typically pair a variegated yarn with 1 or 2 matching solid colors, but it's not necessary. When choosing a variegated yarn for a pattern, the most important thing to look at is how fast the colors change. For example, Red Heart's Soft changes colors very fast, every couple of inches. The new Sweet Rolls changes colors very slowly, almost a third of the roll before the color changes. Then there is everything in between those two extremes. Lion Brand's colors change at a nice, colorful rate. When colors change too fast, the result can look muddy. This is because the colors change almost every stitch. When the colors change too slow, the result can look like stripes. This is because you can complete entire rows before the color changes. If you want a colorful blanket, I'd look for something that changes colors every 6-12 inches. It doesn't have to be exactly in that range. At the store, pull out the end of the yarn to the length of your forearm and see how many times it changes colors. Zero color changes in that length means your colors will change slowly. 1-2 color changes in that length means your colors will change every few stitches (colorful). 3 or more color changes in that length means your colors will change almost every stitch (do a swatch of the pattern to see if you like it or not.) The next most important thing to look for is a simple pattern. Complex stitches don't show up with most variegated yarn, so there's no sense in doing them. A pattern with a simple repeat, like a ripple (round or rectangle), shells, all DC, granny squares, etc. work best. The simpler the pattern, the better it works with variegated yarn, in my opinion. Personally, I love mile-a-minute patterns with a mix of variegated and solid rounds the best. ETA: I forgot to talk about yarn pooling. You can actually plan where your colors will fall to achieve regular pooling of colors. I've never done it, but it looks very cool. Google "yarn pooling." There are several articles about what it is and how to do it.

Everything is simply wonderful... lovely... beautiful! (I couldn't pick just one adjective.) I know that it won't replace Terri's mourning, but it should help her feel loved knowing how much her Crochetville family cares.

How did I miss seeing the row of motifs? I was talking about the mesh Xs above and under the motifs in my earlier post. smh