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Welcome to the 'ville!  That's meaningless in conventional crochet pattern writing in English.  

There are a LOT of gibberish patterns that wannabe designers are using to rip off crocheters trying to make money off of.  We see a lot of those in the help section.  Some are written by non-native English speakers, I give them a lot of credit for trying, and often it's just odd word order (but the meaning is understandable).  My advice - never pay money for a pattern unless you are already familiar with the designer, or if it is from a legitimate publisher where the pattern is likely to be tech edited - like DRG publications (Annies Attic), a yarn company (Yarnspirations, Lion Brand, etc), Leisure arts.  If you are stuck on a free pattern, you (usually) can just find another pattern for a similar item and you are out a little time but not money.

Having said that, I have seen patterns where a designer gave a sequence of stitches a 'stitch name' that pertained to that pattern only , but clearly defined it (do this, do that, do another thing, all in 1 stitch=Acme stitch).  A well written pattern, that has any stitches beyond the basic SC, DC, (etc) chain, slip stitch should have a stitch definition section.  By any chance, is there a special stitches/stitch definition section that you overlooked?  On the other hand, N could be a meaningful crochet instruction in another language and the pattern writer goofed in that spot.

Sometimes if an instruction is confusing or perhaps ambiguous, I'll look at the pattern photo at the spot I'm stuck on, to figure out what it is trying to say.

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Here is a glossary of stitch terms in various languages - because I signed in as a US term user, it's currently translating English to English, but if you know the designer is a non native English speaker and know his/her native language, you can change the language choices to try to find what 'n' could mean; the designer might have just had a 'slip of the brain' and used 'their' abbreviation instead of English.

Edited by Granny Square
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If this is the pattern, I found this info in the pdf on the final page:

Alterations: 

In my blanket, I decided I wanted the edges of the blanket to have full rhombii, and not the “stacked” Y shape of the blocks in the middle of the blanket. To get the full rhombus for a side (any side!), do not bind off after row 4 and continue with the dc(15-2n), dc3tog, dc(15-2n) pattern (where n is the row #) until there are 4 sts left, turn, ch2, dc4tog, and then bind off.

Hope this helps.

Edited by ReniC
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7 hours ago, NCcountrygal said:

Who knows?! Ask the designer.

This is in my crochet pa

 

5 hours ago, ReniC said:

If this is the pattern, I found this info in the pdf on the final page:

Alterations: 

In my blanket, I decided I wanted the edges of the blanket to have full rhombii, and not the “stacked” Y shape of the blocks in the middle of the blanket. To get the full rhombus for a side (any side!), do not bind off after row 4 and continue with the dc(15-2n), dc3tog, dc(15-2n) pattern (where n is the row #) until there are 4 sts left, turn, ch2, dc4tog, and then bind off.

Hope this helps.

That what I don’t understand continue with???????

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3 hours ago, Crochet stitches said:

This is in my crochet pa

 

That what I don’t understand continue with???????

The first url has similar 3d effect patterns.  The second gives you the source of the pdf Reni shared.  By Kat Li.  I've glanced at the pattern and it seems pretty straight forward in creating the Ys, but not having "worked" it I can't get my head into the alteration section and which row 4.  If you are on Ravelry you could message KatLi if she is still active for clarification or an example to help you understand her meaning.  If not I can work a Y and see if it makes sense to me to be able to explain it to you.  :)  I have a very sick dog that I have to take back to vet in AM.  Until then my mind isn't in a crocheting think.

https://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/2020/08/free-3d-crochet-blanket-patterns.html

Similar type patterns.  Take a look.

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tumbling-blocks-12
by Kat Li  (pdf pattern Reni posted)

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Thanks for the link. 

First of all in the notes the designer says "The pattern I’m writing is just a rough guideline for what I did....."

Yes there is a photo tutorial on the Y's which is all that is used in one version.

The designer then wanted a different edge and came up with the variation which is shown at bottom of pattern and only affects the outside edges.  The following is telling you how to fill in the space

"To get the full rhombus for a
side (any side!), do not bind off after row 4 and continue with the dc(15-2n), dc3tog, dc(15-2n)
pattern (where n is the row #) until there are 4 sts left, turn, ch2, dc4tog, and then bind off"

 

Referring to my crude sketch below.

For the top Y motifs you would continue to work the above instructions to fill in where the yellow lines are.

For the left edge use the above instructions to fill in where the red lines are.

For the right edge use the above instructions to fill in where the red lines are.

For the bottom use instructions and fill in where the red lines and blue lines are.

Top left fill in red lines and yellow lines.

Top right fill in yellow and blue lines.

20211202213446488311469b47cb6113f.thumb.jpg.3788338353571aa35df110caf0bd8dfe.jpg

 

Edited by bgs
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To get the full rhombus for a
side (any side!), do not bind off after row 4 and continue with the dc(15dc-2n), dc3tog, dc(15-2n)
pattern (where n is the row #) until there are 4 sts left, turn, ch2, dc4tog, and then bind of 

R4:  turn, ch2, dc in 2nd st, dc7, dc3tog, dc7,,  dc2tog (17 sts)

So for row 5 I think you are to sub in the instructions in yellow for the part in blue from row 4 so I think row would be as follows.  Then do it again for next rows.  Now my problem is I get to 5 stitches and not 4.  Does anyone else see what I am missing?

R5:   turn, ch 2, dc in 2nd stitch, 5dc, dc3tog, 5dc, dc2tog (13 stitches)

R6:   turn, ch 2,  dc in 2nd stitch, 3dc, dc3tog, 3dc, dc2tog (9 stitches)

R7:   turn, ch 2,  dc in 2nd stitch, dc, dc3tog, dc, dc2tog (5 stitches)

Maybe R8:  turn, ch 2, starting in 2nd stitch dc4tog

It is noted in pattern that ch2 is not counted as stitch

Edited by bgs
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