Back, front, or both loops. How do you know?

[beans_etc]

When I was originally shown by a friend how to crochet, she instructed me to insert my hook under the front loop of the chain only.  However, when I went to a crochet class this past week, the teacher told me that you should always insert the hook under both loops.  It seems to produce a different looking pattern than just doing one loop; however, it also makes the project much thicker and stiffer in  my opinion.  Also, after doing some Googling, I've also seen some sites that say that they use the back loop only in some cases.

 

I'm just looking for some clarification on how someone knows how many loops to stick the hook through, and in what instances you would use one method over the other.  Does it come down to purely a personal preference thing?

 

Thanks!

[magiccrochetfan]

the standard way to make a stitch is to go under both loops.  

 

If you are following a pattern and it doesn't say otherwise, go under both loops.  Sometimes a pattern will specify that a stitch is placed under only the front or back loop.  In patterns, front loop always means the one facing you as you work, and back loop always means the one farthest from you (assuming the pattern is written in a standard style).  

 

if you are making up your own thing you can do it however you like of course.  Using only one loop adds flexibility as you've observed.   That's good in some cases but sometimes you want more stability.  It also creates a line in the fabric where the unused loop stands out, which you may or may not want.  

[beans_etc]

Thanks for the clarification!  I've been using just the front loop on my practice project, but I'll try to start using both loops now.

[mattenylou]

I was taught to pick up both loops, so that's what I've always done, FWIW.

 

You will see patterns that instruct you to work only in the front or back loop once in a while. Working in the back loop gives a nice  "line" across that can be decorative, too.

 

It forms a natural little "bend' in your work if worked on just one row, I always use it on a baby's bootie, it makes a little decorative ridge to separate the sole from the side of the foot. Use it to form that line to separate 'sides' of things, such as the bottom of a tote bag... after you work the oval base, start working the first side row in the back loop.

 

As you mentioned, working in just one loop gives a softer drape to your finished 'fabric', I like the feel of dishcloths when done in the back loop. Working every other stitch in the back loop in a single crochet stitch changes the total look, too, that little "bar" makes a big change in the way it looks.... makes a nice dishcloth, and is just a bit less 'floppy' than when they are all worked in the back stitch.

 

Sometimes I add a random "worked in the back loop" row every so often in a scarf, just to add some interest... I hate doing the same thing over and over and over.

 

For a fun way to practice how the "back loops" can be useful, you might want to try this just for fun...I've made lots of these-- little red Christmas houses -- by working a 2"high, 8"long single crochet strip, working in the back loop at 2", 4" and 6" where the corners of the house will be(and bend)(be sure to have the same number of rows between each section... Make a white roof- 6" long, 3-4" wide, (check to make sure it fits your house) with the back loop worked halfway for the ridgeline. fill in the peaks with a huge triple crochet shell worked in red in the 1st and 3rd squares of the long strip, before you stuff it and sew on the roof.... comes out really cute.... jab your hook in the peak of the roof and pull out some fiberfill, looks like chimney smoke. Add a little door, too, with a teeny wreath of chained green embroidery floss or crochet cotton. (they look nice in gray and brown, too, set up in the trees of the 'hillside' of my Christmas village, snuggled in the snow.)

[RoseRed]

What size hook and yarn are you using?

[beans_etc]

What size hook and yarn are you using?

 

I'm using a medium 4 yarn and a 5.5 mm hook (the yarn label says I should be using a 6 mm, but 5.5 is the biggest I have right now.)

[RoseRed]

When you work consistently in either the front or back loop you create a stretchy ridged fabric.  It has the appearance of being thicker until you actually stretch it out. 

 

It's not a matter of personal preference.  The standard way to make a sc is to go under both loops unless directed otherwise.

 

If your piece is coming out like cardboard your tension may be too tight.  When you  make your stitch - are you leaving the loop on the hook the same size as the shaft of the hook or are you tightening it as it slides down the throat?  If you're tightening the loop on the hook that'll explain why your fabric is so stiff.

[wheat]

Your dissatisfaction with the hand of the fabric may be because you are using a smaller hook size than called for.  even that .5mm can make a difference - especially if your yarn is on the thicker end of the range for that "weight"

 

Before committing to the entire project, I would strongly suggest getting the correct size hook and swatching to see the difference.  As you skills advance - you will find that different patterns call for different sized hooks even for the same yarn.

[RoseRed]

Good point.

[Granny Square]

BLO (back loop only) is usually called out for ribbing.  Also, ye olde vintage patterns from the 1800s called out BLO for their basic stitch instruction, which is interesting.

 

FLO (front loop only) doesn't produce ribbing, it makes a slightly less dense flat fabric than sc thru both loops but it does look different (has a horizontal ridge formed by the unused loop, every other row).  Like sc, it looks the same front and back.

 

If you alternate BLO and FLO, it makes a flat fabric but the ridges all end up on one side.  I just made up a sample, it might be my imagination but this seems a wee bit thicker than FLO.

 

I agree with experimenting with a larger hook.  I use tapered throat style hooks, and when I was new I didn't move the stitch far enough down the lenght of the hook to tension it properly so my stitches were very tight.  I had to learn to change my technique to loosen it up.

[beans_etc]

Thanks for the info, all!  Right now I am trying to keep my yarn loop at least the width of the largest middle part of the hook (my hooks sort of taper off at both ends but is wider in the middle.)  However, my plan is to go and buy a couple of larger hooks today or tomorrow.

[wheat]

Thanks for the info, all!  Right now I am trying to keep my yarn loop at least the width of the largest middle part of the hook (my hooks sort of taper off at both ends but is wider in the middle.)  However, my plan is to go and buy a couple of larger hooks today or tomorrow.

 

Well now you have me very curious - what brand and style of hook are you using for your project?

[Bailey4]

Are you talking about working from the starting chain to establish the first row or once you've established the first row?  I've seen people start the first row a couple of different ways and they all seem to work.  However once started, the pattern generally tells you if you aren't supposed to stick with the standard under both loops for a sc. 

 

As several people have mentioned it gives the pattern a different look when you crochet in the front loop or back loop only once the first row is established. 

[beans_etc]

Well now you have me very curious - what brand and style of hook are you using for your project?

 

I'm using Boye brand aluminum hooks from Michaels.  After looking at them again, I guess the bottom end of the hook isn't really tapered, but that middle part where you hold hook is wider and I find that if I slide the yarn down there and make sure the loops are at least that large, I don't have much problem hooking through the stitches.

[wheat]

I'm using Boye brand aluminum hooks from Michaels.  After looking at them again, I guess the bottom end of the hook isn't really tapered, but that middle part where you hold hook is wider and I find that if I slide the yarn down there and make sure the loops are at least that large, I don't have much problem hooking through the stitches.

 

If you are saying that you are sliding your loop up onto the barrel/shaft that is in fact the actual diameter of the hook for that size (i.e., 5.00mm) then that is how you "should" be forming your stitches. 

 

If you are saying that you are slding your loop all the way to the thumb rest, you do run the risk of both deforming and having varying width in your working gauge. 

 

This may have unpleasaant consequences for your results.  Certainly it will make it very difficult to obtain the consistency needed for more advanced projects.