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Everything posted by wheat

  1. wheat

    scarf length

    My rule of thumb when making a gift is the person's height plus 20 inches. this allows it be wrapped once around the neck and the ends fall more or less to their waist. But then I always wanted a scarf that wrapped my neck and then made a layer under my coat between me and the wind whipping up the Hudson trying to freeze you while waiting for trains or walking ot the station. Because of the way it "piles" around the neck, wider might need to be longer.
  2. browns from dark to cream, beige, etc dark greens like forest and hunter dark golds (not bright)
  3. When I choose to make something for myself, it is usually with the intention of teaching myself. It does not have to please anyone but me Why not start with a stitch pattern book Looking at your stash, what colors, that YOU like the most, do you have the most. Now start pulling colors that you like together and have at least two skeins. Next using a stitch guide, choose a variety of motifs. Find the one with the longest repeat and use that as "base" I have a number of those early leisure pattern leaflet with "62-63-??" stitch patterns Make a note of the pattern repeat (usually noted as something like "chain 5 + 2" So lets say you have done a small swatch with the yarn and know that their will be 5 SC stitches to the inch. You want your blanket to be approximately 40 inches wide (I make them wider, but I am wider) You will need to create a base chain of 5 sc times 40 inches = 200 stitches PLUS TWO I always add 5-10% extra, because then if I count wrong, I can "fix" the error. The leftover tail reminds me that when it is on my left, the right side is facing me. This would be in the "base color" Choose your next color, join at end of the row and work the first motif you have chosen for a few inches - I find that I like to work at least 3-5 rows in pattern. IF by the end of the 5th repeat I have pretty much stopped looking at either the Symbol chart or the written instruction, end that the color. I have been "pulling up the base color along the side, so easily pick it up and work a row or two of SC to "outline" the section. My niece tells me she has always like the crab stitch in between colors version best. Your project, your choice. You have no one to please here but yourself. decide on the next color and motif, and repeat. The width of each "stripe" does not need to match, although I do try to keep something of a Fibnacci sequence going to the center height. My center stripe is usually the widest , but does not have to be. Then, I reverse from the center to the lower edge for colors, but not always for the motifs. Finish with the SC and then I reverse SC around the entire project for a few rows. Like I said, it is your project and no one has to like it but you, just suggesting that well, I am not so much a fan of making granny's., want as few things as possible to sew together when done (don't mind weaving in ends just don't like joining square after square. Whatever else you do, make sure you Enjoy The Making Wheat
  4. Lacking enough information to determine if an actaul violation exists (and respecting CV preference not to have detailed discussions) Essentially, Copyright grants the author the right to control HOW and WHERE their work is displayed - used, etc. MONEY does not entire into the issue until the "Punitive" damages section occurs. EVEN if the motif is in stitch guides, it is the INSTRUCTIONS that are copyright. So you will have to write your own instructions In your situation, I would contact the person whose work you incorporated into your project and seek permission to link back to their instructions for that section of your instructions.
  5. Since far too many of the Russian sites are using PDFs of books and magazines that are not legal copies, it will be quite difficult. You also might need to understand the different approach of many European and Russian books and magazines. Their audience does not expect the same degree of explanation that a US audience would expect. In many cases, even where more detailed instructions exist, they are often only one one size, with the expectation that you will know how to up/down size. Often not even having schmetatics. Many years ago, for the benefit of knitters, Sion Eloab - founder of the US Yarn Distributor, Knitting Fever, prepared a text called the Knitting Architect. Many have found it helpful and most of the priciples easily "transfer" to crochet. Another Helpful aid would be a book recently published thru Leisure Arts. This book has been a long time comming and was a "pet project" of Jean Leinhauser. Sadly she left us before it could be finished - thankfully for crocheters, Rita Weiss and Susan Huxley completed her work and an excellent reference. "Complete Guide To Symbol Crochet" exists "in English" to assist you in creating the necessary swatches. I guess the bottom line unless you have access to someone who can both Read Russian, speaks Symbol Crochet and last but least knows how to fit a motif into the outline for the style you desire, it will require writing/figuring it out. Something you may have to do yourself, since most of these pages violate copyrights, most of those who could help will not as a matter of ethics. Fortunately many "English" speaking designers have been using Symbol Crochet and creating wonderful patterns so you will have other choices and if you take the time to learn how, can become "adept" at changing the motifs used to change the final look. Sorry not to be more helpful
  6. Changing the yarn may not mean "just" needing different yardage. Depending on which end of the range for each size, there can be a huge difference in the grist of the size 4 when compared to that of the size 6. You may also need to use a different size needle in order for any pattern work to show properly and maintain its integrity. And it may take more than one try to find the combination you want for your project. It may seem like a lot of extra work to do a gauge swatch, particularly since you will need one in pattern to judge if the hand is acceptable to you, but if you do not the liklihood of an unhappy result and hours of frogging might make you regret not taking that 30-60 mins for a swatch.
  7. yarn weights are a range, there are many sport and dk that can work almost interchangeable and there are others that will make your head hurt. What brand and yarn dk are you llooking at? how does it label gauge relate -
  8. Since you plan to sell this item, perhaps you need to try several different methods to see they work out for you. Perhaps you can find instructions on the internet for sewing on "knit fabric" to help you develop your unique product.
  9. One of the best things about crochet is its portablitiy. With that in mind, you may want to consider an equally portable reference. Leisure Arts recently released a new title for its "pocket references" a series of books that are about 5.5 in wide x 8.5 in tall. The Complete Guide to Symbol Crochet by Rita Weiss & Susan Lowman. Don't let the title throw you. (and besides, having a basic symbol reference is invaluable as you go forward) The book contains about 45-50 basic stitches and commonly used stitch combinations with the symbol, and excellent step outs to form each stitch along with the "written/verbal" instructions. It has some basic patterns to help you learn to "read" symbols but I feel its greatest value is to have the stitch, symbol, written and pictorial guidance anywhere you want to work. It is great to watch a tutorial to see the flow, but having a reference like this to "remind" you later is, to me at least, an invaluable reference. And yes, we will be selling this book, along with Kim Guzman's Tunisian Stitch Guide, but only because I think it is so valuable to both the new and those who need a reminder from time to time. I only wish Leisure Arts had followed Kim's example and included Symbol Charts in the other books in the series.
  10. wheat


    The only thing I would add is to consider investing in stainless or other "non-rusting" pins. Because I am lazy, I do not "formally" block anything except some lace projects. However, I do have those net frames that straddle your tub and with a bit of quick tugging into shape and air drying, most projects seem to be "happy" and will hang well on the body.
  11. wheat

    Please help me

    They are are from a Portuguese language home dec magazine.
  12. wheat

    counting stitches

    If not specified in the pattern, AND your stitch count is plus/minus 1 - that is your answer One stitch short, count the Slip Stitch One stitch too many, do not count the slip stitch (and take care not to work into it in the next round) HTH
  13. I would not have used white but that is just because I really don't like "the absense of color" in any situation :-) However, if it were my project I WOULD use white. Because anything else you do is going to distract from the color work. Looking at your photo, the use of white would make the entire focus on each of the color motifs - almost floating above background color. Using white would also add a bit more separation between the motif giving each more importance than the backsgroud
  14. wheat

    selling items

    I have found that the best result comes when there is only one "commercial" posting a day. I even try to keep it to not every day, but that may not work for you. Also besure that EVERY Posting includes how to order - so many artisans neglect to include this and end up wasting time (theirs and their followers) exchanging PM with price and order info. You may also want to consider a blog with payment links.
  15. wheat

    selling items

    You may want to consider creating a page separate from your personal account. It will take time to build a following - be sure when you set it up that you make it so that other pages can follow and like your page. By example, my personal facebook page is: https://www.facebook.com/wheatcarr and my business page is: https://www.facebook.com/ItsAllJustString By making your "business page" accessible, you make it easier for someone like me/as a small business or a yarn company etc to share your postings with our readers and followers when it fits into what we do. You may also find it useful to use that ID to like business pages for yarn and hook brands you use. I would saw that my "followoing" is about evenly split between those who buy supplies to make things themselves, those who buy finished work and folks outside the US so I suspect are there for the eye candy. Good Luck with your business.
  16. This is not sufficient information to answer your question. 4ply may or may not mean the same thing - if you are working from a pattern, you will need to know how many yards/meters it calls for And from the seller you will need to know how many yards/meters in their offering.
  17. Having just gone thru a fair exhaustive search in prepartion for the release of Kim Guzman's new book on broomstick later this summer, Basix (wood) has a 12mm Denise (plastic) has a 12mm and 15mm tip Twin Birch (wood) does an 11mm and 15mm Bates Luxite (plastic) currently tops out at 11.5mm Pony/Lion/Boye all have a P-10mm Plastic as well as a Q-15.75mm plastic Once you get above 10mm, it is unlikely you will find metal hooks currently produced for all sorts of good reasons. Some of the more custom hook makers may have more exotic woods.
  18. From watching your video, it seems that you may well have a lot better control of yarn and by extension, your tension/gauge as you work. With that thought, it may be you are really better off than those who have been taught more traditional ways to manage their yarn. The way you hold your hook may also give you more versatility and I would be willing to bet that whomever taught you also Knit, since there is a very strong similiarity between the nicknamed "Knife" hold and how one holds Knitting Needles. So again, your way may be better than others. To the best these of my knowledge there are no "Standards" in the true sense of that work, The Craft Yarn Council's are really voluntary and were more or less developed so that "designers" had something to work with that benefited the sale of "Craft" Yarn. Again, to the best of my knowledge the only standards that exist (and are mandated for publication by Japanese publishers) are related to Stitch Symbols and to a small extent, the diameter of their hooks. This lack of REQUIRED Standards is why giving the Diameter of a hook used is essential by deisgners to best support those who would use their pattern - but still not mandatory. IF what you are doing is comfortable for you AND the fabric you create "matches" your expectation, THEN there is no reason to change. It may mean that you will have to work thru some issues with instructions from time to time because the illustrations in a pattern or book may not match your style. Should you give the other method a try? Maybe, but I don't think you need to be concerned any more than you should be concerned if the pattern gauge says you should a 5mm hook to get 4 to the inch stiches, but you find you need to use a 4.75mm hook - so long as the fabric looks right, ends up with a satisfactory hand and texture - what you do is not wrong, just different and quite possibly better. The important thing is this is supposed to be fun, so do it the way the allows you to Enjoy The Making Wheat
  19. I have been avoiding commenting here because my feelings on pricing are not gentle. Please if you have delicate sensibilities - skip to the next message. This is directed at no individual just thoughts from a woman who has been around this business for too many decades and thus the rosy coating has long since worn off her glasses. The ability of some to rationalize working for wages less than are paid to illegal alien field hands is beyond my understanding. There are people who choose to apply a manufacturing model of X times the cost of materials - The problem is that this model is meant to be sued when something is machine produced and there is very limited human involvment in the processes. Pricing a work for hire is probably much closer to an R&D (research and development model) Your mention they would provide the yarn makes me very nervious - but that just may be a lack of information. My first quetion to them would be what yarn - maybe it will be one you cannot work with because of allergies or even because it is not a texture or quality you will be comforable wiht (remember it is going to be running thru your finges for at least 20 or more hours for even the simplest project of that size. What stitch pattern. The complexity of the stitch is going to effect the amount of time and effort needed. Simple Single Color DC either width or lenghtwise - one thing. Squares, don't forget the time and attention needed to put them together. Will there be additional work (fringing, cross stitching on the surface for personalization) Not an issue since this is July and December is far away, but time constraints should always be factored in. Deadlines may mean setting aside time that interferes with personal time - so are you willing to give up time with your family or friends to work for $2 an hour? Many have and will tell you that you will/can not expect to be paid reasonably for your time. And in most cases that will be correct. I have far more empathy with those who make things they want to make, with materials they enjoy using and then underprice it = "to buy more yarn" because they have had the joy of the making. I don't much like the effect they have on the "what the market will bear" but at least they have had the benefit of enjoying the work instead of having its terms dictated. And I still do a fair amount of "charity" projects each year, but it is on my terms - from patch work type collections of swatches to items made as part of pattern development but finished nicely. What I can tell you from hard learned life lessons is that nothing sucks the joy out of a craft doing it without the joy that can so easily seep into a work for hire. Most of the time I offer to teach them what they need to know to get started because frankly 99% of the time I am not willing to work for someone who does not have a clear understanding of the time and talent required to perform the service they are requesting. What only you can decide, after taking all the true costs for planning, materials and production - loss of personal time, is whether "what the market will bear" is acceptable to you. The "choice is yours"
  20. This might a good time to consider test driving some of the ergo nomiic handled hooks - I prefer something with a softer feel (although not necessarily foam)
  21. I did check with Amy before posting and because this is not a yarn I ever sold, but yarn my Mom purchased thru an LYS as she was a fan of SWTC Karoke, I am finally in the process of going thru her stash. Current details for this yarn: Karaoke is a blend of wool and soysilk creating a soft, exciting yarn. Some of the colors are long, color changing shades, others are solid and semi-solids. Each is unique and interesting. The Karaoke collection has a huge collection of patterns by some of the industries top designers. Check out Karaoke Patterns here. 50% SOY SILK®/ 50% Wool 5 sts = 1″ needles: US 7 (4.5mm) 100m / 50g ball And is presently offered on line at $9.50 per skein. There are a total of 40 plus skeins. $4.50 each if you take all of a single color plus exact postage and insurance or $4.25 each if you take it all - 10 Sks No 198 New Splash 3 Sks No 286 Copper 4 sks No 287 Loganberry 4 sks No 288 Mermaid 5 sks No 295 Black 15 sks No 351 Capri Breeze (lt aqua, yellow mix) I think all but 198 shown below can be seen on the SWTC site: it can be seen in this blog review http://kathrynivy.com/reviews/yarns/swtc-karaoke/
  22. without looking at the vid you found, it is not really possible to say it it will be helpful. However, the stitches are not difficult, without seeing the pattern, it is hard to say if there will be other challenges, It looks like you will need to pay attention since stitch placement will be critical for the raised images. I am guessing, but suspect that the pattern author is using both FPDC and BPDC (front & back post DC) this would allow you to turn your work but still keep the raised texture on the same side it does not seem complicated, just needing attention to detail and the instructions - I suspect stitch markers will be an important friend as well
  23. The 54 is not an instruction, it is a reference it is telling you that if you have followed "what the instructions meant" (not always the same as what gets written )
  24. If you have an old pair of tennis shoes/sneakers you can cut off most of the top (leave enough to use to stitch top to sole) and then use any number of methods to attach the crochet sock/slipper to the sole. Possible more than you want to spend, but I have always glued in a Dr School type shoe line to give a smooth base. But I tend to make things to last so don't mind spending a little extra. Long ago I did a pair that attached the crochet slipper using a hand picked zipper. This allowed me to remove the sock portion for washing Another time I modified a pair of sandles by attaching velcro to the straps and also to the back of the crochet strips. One base, many looks (and something to do with the yarn left over from tote or even a purse. This also can/has worked with some addtional effort (cleaning the shoe being upcycled) If you have normal sized feet, clear clogs or boots, not inexpensive but more versatile so many worth investing, are the clear clogs and boots. If you are comfortable wearing them, either Crocs or the knock offs work really well as a base as the wholes are already punched.
  25. For now, it would be best to find out from your physician the best way to handle the injury and allow it time to heal (which may be unhappily longer than you would like) He may also advise you how to help avoid a repeat, for example I wear a tennis elbow strap most of the time except when sleeping - that was on advice of the doc. There are also "pepper" creams that your physician may be able to help you locate - invaluable to me when healing for deep muscle pain and ongoing after long sessions especially with joints where the arthritis is continuing to be painful.
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