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wheat

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  • Content Count

    454
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  • Real Name
    Wheat Carr
  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    Bead, Braid, Crochet, Spin, Weave, Knit
  • How long have you been crocheting?
    1955
  • Favorite things to crochet
    the one I am working on at the moment
  1. wheat

    scarf length

    My rule of thumb when making a gift is the person's height plus 20 inches. this allows it be wrapped once around the neck and the ends fall more or less to their waist. But then I always wanted a scarf that wrapped my neck and then made a layer under my coat between me and the wind whipping up the Hudson trying to freeze you while waiting for trains or walking ot the station. Because of the way it "piles" around the neck, wider might need to be longer.
  2. browns from dark to cream, beige, etc dark greens like forest and hunter dark golds (not bright)
  3. When I choose to make something for myself, it is usually with the intention of teaching myself. It does not have to please anyone but me Why not start with a stitch pattern book Looking at your stash, what colors, that YOU like the most, do you have the most. Now start pulling colors that you like together and have at least two skeins. Next using a stitch guide, choose a variety of motifs. Find the one with the longest repeat and use that as "base" I have a number of those early leisure pattern leaflet with "62-63-??" stitch patterns Make a note of the pattern repeat (usually noted as something like "chain 5 + 2" So lets say you have done a small swatch with the yarn and know that their will be 5 SC stitches to the inch. You want your blanket to be approximately 40 inches wide (I make them wider, but I am wider) You will need to create a base chain of 5 sc times 40 inches = 200 stitches PLUS TWO I always add 5-10% extra, because then if I count wrong, I can "fix" the error. The leftover tail reminds me that when it is on my left, the right side is facing me. This would be in the "base color" Choose your next color, join at end of the row and work the first motif you have chosen for a few inches - I find that I like to work at least 3-5 rows in pattern. IF by the end of the 5th repeat I have pretty much stopped looking at either the Symbol chart or the written instruction, end that the color. I have been "pulling up the base color along the side, so easily pick it up and work a row or two of SC to "outline" the section. My niece tells me she has always like the crab stitch in between colors version best. Your project, your choice. You have no one to please here but yourself. decide on the next color and motif, and repeat. The width of each "stripe" does not need to match, although I do try to keep something of a Fibnacci sequence going to the center height. My center stripe is usually the widest , but does not have to be. Then, I reverse from the center to the lower edge for colors, but not always for the motifs. Finish with the SC and then I reverse SC around the entire project for a few rows. Like I said, it is your project and no one has to like it but you, just suggesting that well, I am not so much a fan of making granny's., want as few things as possible to sew together when done (don't mind weaving in ends just don't like joining square after square. Whatever else you do, make sure you Enjoy The Making Wheat
  4. Lacking enough information to determine if an actaul violation exists (and respecting CV preference not to have detailed discussions) Essentially, Copyright grants the author the right to control HOW and WHERE their work is displayed - used, etc. MONEY does not entire into the issue until the "Punitive" damages section occurs. EVEN if the motif is in stitch guides, it is the INSTRUCTIONS that are copyright. So you will have to write your own instructions In your situation, I would contact the person whose work you incorporated into your project and seek permission to link back to their instructions for that section of your instructions.
  5. Since far too many of the Russian sites are using PDFs of books and magazines that are not legal copies, it will be quite difficult. You also might need to understand the different approach of many European and Russian books and magazines. Their audience does not expect the same degree of explanation that a US audience would expect. In many cases, even where more detailed instructions exist, they are often only one one size, with the expectation that you will know how to up/down size. Often not even having schmetatics. Many years ago, for the benefit of knitters, Sion Eloab - founder of the US Yarn Distributor, Knitting Fever, prepared a text called the Knitting Architect. Many have found it helpful and most of the priciples easily "transfer" to crochet. Another Helpful aid would be a book recently published thru Leisure Arts. This book has been a long time comming and was a "pet project" of Jean Leinhauser. Sadly she left us before it could be finished - thankfully for crocheters, Rita Weiss and Susan Huxley completed her work and an excellent reference. "Complete Guide To Symbol Crochet" exists "in English" to assist you in creating the necessary swatches. I guess the bottom line unless you have access to someone who can both Read Russian, speaks Symbol Crochet and last but least knows how to fit a motif into the outline for the style you desire, it will require writing/figuring it out. Something you may have to do yourself, since most of these pages violate copyrights, most of those who could help will not as a matter of ethics. Fortunately many "English" speaking designers have been using Symbol Crochet and creating wonderful patterns so you will have other choices and if you take the time to learn how, can become "adept" at changing the motifs used to change the final look. Sorry not to be more helpful
  6. Changing the yarn may not mean "just" needing different yardage. Depending on which end of the range for each size, there can be a huge difference in the grist of the size 4 when compared to that of the size 6. You may also need to use a different size needle in order for any pattern work to show properly and maintain its integrity. And it may take more than one try to find the combination you want for your project. It may seem like a lot of extra work to do a gauge swatch, particularly since you will need one in pattern to judge if the hand is acceptable to you, but if you do not the liklihood of an unhappy result and hours of frogging might make you regret not taking that 30-60 mins for a swatch.
  7. yarn weights are a range, there are many sport and dk that can work almost interchangeable and there are others that will make your head hurt. What brand and yarn dk are you llooking at? how does it label gauge relate -
  8. Since you plan to sell this item, perhaps you need to try several different methods to see they work out for you. Perhaps you can find instructions on the internet for sewing on "knit fabric" to help you develop your unique product.
  9. One of the best things about crochet is its portablitiy. With that in mind, you may want to consider an equally portable reference. Leisure Arts recently released a new title for its "pocket references" a series of books that are about 5.5 in wide x 8.5 in tall. The Complete Guide to Symbol Crochet by Rita Weiss & Susan Lowman. Don't let the title throw you. (and besides, having a basic symbol reference is invaluable as you go forward) The book contains about 45-50 basic stitches and commonly used stitch combinations with the symbol, and excellent step outs to form each stitch along with the "written/verbal" instructions. It has some basic patterns to help you learn to "read" symbols but I feel its greatest value is to have the stitch, symbol, written and pictorial guidance anywhere you want to work. It is great to watch a tutorial to see the flow, but having a reference like this to "remind" you later is, to me at least, an invaluable reference. And yes, we will be selling this book, along with Kim Guzman's Tunisian Stitch Guide, but only because I think it is so valuable to both the new and those who need a reminder from time to time. I only wish Leisure Arts had followed Kim's example and included Symbol Charts in the other books in the series.
  10. wheat

    Blocking

    The only thing I would add is to consider investing in stainless or other "non-rusting" pins. Because I am lazy, I do not "formally" block anything except some lace projects. However, I do have those net frames that straddle your tub and with a bit of quick tugging into shape and air drying, most projects seem to be "happy" and will hang well on the body.
  11. wheat

    Please help me

    They are are from a Portuguese language home dec magazine.
  12. wheat

    counting stitches

    If not specified in the pattern, AND your stitch count is plus/minus 1 - that is your answer One stitch short, count the Slip Stitch One stitch too many, do not count the slip stitch (and take care not to work into it in the next round) HTH
  13. I would not have used white but that is just because I really don't like "the absense of color" in any situation :-) However, if it were my project I WOULD use white. Because anything else you do is going to distract from the color work. Looking at your photo, the use of white would make the entire focus on each of the color motifs - almost floating above background color. Using white would also add a bit more separation between the motif giving each more importance than the backsgroud
  14. wheat

    selling items

    I have found that the best result comes when there is only one "commercial" posting a day. I even try to keep it to not every day, but that may not work for you. Also besure that EVERY Posting includes how to order - so many artisans neglect to include this and end up wasting time (theirs and their followers) exchanging PM with price and order info. You may also want to consider a blog with payment links.
  15. wheat

    selling items

    You may want to consider creating a page separate from your personal account. It will take time to build a following - be sure when you set it up that you make it so that other pages can follow and like your page. By example, my personal facebook page is: https://www.facebook.com/wheatcarr and my business page is: https://www.facebook.com/ItsAllJustString By making your "business page" accessible, you make it easier for someone like me/as a small business or a yarn company etc to share your postings with our readers and followers when it fits into what we do. You may also find it useful to use that ID to like business pages for yarn and hook brands you use. I would saw that my "followoing" is about evenly split between those who buy supplies to make things themselves, those who buy finished work and folks outside the US so I suspect are there for the eye candy. Good Luck with your business.
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