Jump to content
  • 0

Hiding the dc hole


nightowl

Question

Hi all

 

I found this idea at Bella Online. It sounds good, but I can't make out how it would work.

 

Wouldn't you get a wavy/bumpy edge, alternately in one row where you skipped working into the turning chain, then out the next when you worked a turning chain *and* a dc into the first stitch? I just can't "see" it, but I have been up all night, LOL.

 

I do remember a while ago someone here saying she ignores turning chains and finds it gives her a straighter edge, but I can't find the post now, drat it.

 

Any thoughts, anyone?

 

--

Nowl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

Hi lene

 

Thanks, I'm finding it reassuring to hear people are using this method. I suppose I just need to try it so I can see what happens at the end of the rows -- that's the bit that bothers me.

 

I only ever use ch-2 for a dc too; it made sense to me that if an sc was 1 ch, a dc should be 2, and ch-3 seems much too much.

 

When you're crocheting in the round, though you don't count the beginning ch as a stitch, do you still use it to join into? Or do you join into the first stitch instead? This is so fascinating. . .

 

--

Nowl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to add to the confusion I was pointed to this link the other day

 

http://www.medidit.com/instrct/hide.htm

 

this also has a picture to show you.

 

Hi Samio

 

Yes, that's the same article I originally posted about. Interesting, isn't it?

 

--

Nowl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Colleen. I do always use ch-2 for dc, and always turn the work towards me at the end of a row, but I haven't tried the decrease technique. I don't get huge holes at the ends of the rows, but came across the Bella article and was curious about what other people did. It's wonderful to be able to ask. . . I don't know any other crocheters in "the real" world :)

 

--

Nowl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When working in rounds, I hate joining the row w/ a slip stitch, because I can see where the slip stitch was made. So I just keep going round and round. When the time comes to add another color, I do join the previous row, then add the new color, and also do the same for the row just after switching colors again. That eliminates the uneven appearance of just going round and round.

 

I'm still experimenting with this method, but so far it works.

 

Joan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nightowl, I think I've done both when working in rounds -- joined into the chain (or between the chain and that first stitch) or joined into the top of the first stitch. I think the last hat I made, I joined into the top of the first stitch, basically just bypassing the chain that was in front of it. It left a *barely* noticeable ridge, which looked better, to me, than the hole I used to get when I did the "normal" way.

 

I think it helps just to play with it, try different methods and see which one you like best. I always hated holes, so I fiddled til I didn't have to deal with 'em. And I still have to feel my way from time to time, depending on what I'm making, to get the effect I want. I've decided crochet is like cooking, for me, and recipes are there for rough guidelines but not necessarily set in stone... just like patterns! :D

 

Lene'

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, you do not take the hook out, just turn the work the right way so the front of the CH is facing when you get back to it.

I usually turn my work by letting the right hand end of the crochet drop down to the right, (sort of clockwise.)

Does this make sense?

Hope so.

Colleen:hug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the same subject, when instructions say: "Ch2, turn", do you turn and then remove hook to orient it in the correct direction... or do you just turn and continue. Not sure if it makes a difference in the completed piece, but if you turn while leaving the hook in place, you are actually twisting that Ch2 (or 3, etc.)

 

This has been an interesting discussion because I really don't like how my edges look. I always make scarves the long way because of that.

 

Joan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The best thing to do, if you do not like the gap between the turning CH and the next stitch, is to just work 2 CH to stand as your first DC.

There is another thing you can do too, at the beginning of the row.

CH 3 to stand as the first DC, YO, work a DC into the base of the CH, leaving the last two loops on the hook, repeat into the next stitch, then draw the yarn through all 4 loops on the hook. Carry on with the rest of the row.

This puts a stitch into the gap but takes it off again.

the only time you would not be able to do this so well is when you are decreasing or increasing for shaping.

I think the CH2 is the best option.

I would certainly not advocate leaving the CH on the edge unworked.

A good tip too is, when you are turning your work at the end of the row, always turn it the same direction and your work will sit flatter.

have fun.

Colleen:hug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks TepperWear, I must try your method. I do usually only do a ch-2 for dc and don't get a huge gap, but I'd still like to improve it.

Thanks everybody for responding and giving me new techniques to play with! :hookI love to learn.

 

---

Nowl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used the method of using one of my turning chain loops recently when I was making a sleeve using hdc. I really didn't like the gap at the join, and so I tried this method and it worked beautifully for this. I chained 2 (at the beginning of each round), then inserted my hook through one loop of the 1st chain. Insert hook into the next stitch and complete like a usual hdc.

 

That's a method I've never heard before, but it makes sense, kind of tying the turning ch to the first stitch. Did you find the technique somewhere, or was it your own "unvention" (as the wonderful Elizabeth Zimmermann would say)?

 

==

Nowl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's how I do it. I recently made the "Stacy" top from Cool Crochet (I changed the stitch pattern to flo/blo hdc) and used this method. I always use it for scarves and other straight edge things. I only chain two for the height and it looks fine to me.

 

Sorry Denise' date=' I'm confused! :think Which way do you do it, the Bella way or the way Natalie was describing (sc and ch-2)?

 

If you mean the Bella way. . . I can see how you'd get a nice straight edge/no hole not counting the turning ch and working into the first st, but it's the end of the row that bothers me. If you don't work into the turning ch there, doesn't it look like you're a stitch short?

 

--

Nowl

[/color']

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is how I always do it, too. I never liked the way it looked if I counted the turning chain as my first stitch of the row, so I just started ignoring the directions and making my turning chain, then making my first stitch directly into the last stitch of the previous row.

 

And I never do chain three for double crochet, either -- just chain two. My grandma did chain three, but I didn't like it, so I decided to make up my own rules. It tickled me when I realized other people did chain two, too! :D

 

I usually do this same thing when working in rounds, if I'm counting rows/rounds; I slip stitch into the previous row, chain one or two or three (depending on if I'll be making a single, double, or treble crochet) and then insert the hook into that same spot to make my first stitch of the new round. I don't count the chain as a stitch.

 

Lene'

 

Lene'

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not counting those chains as your first stitch does 2 things, it gives you a fairly straight edge without the gap, and also allows you to not have to crochet into the turning chain at the end of the row, which is always so tricky. I do this pretty much all the time now. But Natalie is right, (thanks Natalie) in one of my patterns, I say to start each round with a sc, ch 2 (to count as your first dc), but that's when you're joining rounds, it's not as easy with rows, but you can try, so instead of chaining 3, try doing a sc in the first stitch, and then ch 2. It leaves a lesser gap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used the method of using one of my turning chain loops recently when I was making a sleeve using hdc. I really didn't like the gap at the join, and so I tried this method and it worked beautifully for this. I chained 2 (at the beginning of each round), then inserted my hook through one loop of the 1st chain. Insert hook into the next stitch and complete like a usual hdc.

 

It did create a slightly twisted stitch, but to me it was lots better than having the gap there. You can see it in this close up of my "seam". [image is clickable]

 

th_0212005.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's how I do it. I recently made the "Stacy" top from Cool Crochet (I changed the stitch pattern to flo/blo hdc) and used this method. I always use it for scarves and other straight edge things. I only chain two for the height and it looks fine to me.

 

There is another way to do it and it is in "Cool Crochet" but I figured why take the time when I can do it this way.

 

Keep in mind, though, there are patterns where you just can't use this method and you kind of have to adjust your thinking regarding stitch count. I have gotten myself all screwed up a time or two:think before the dawn lit!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doing it like this does give you a slightly wavy edge... I've always done it this way since I didn't know better when I learned, and I usually only ch-2 to turn so the edge is not as noticeable.

 

There's another way to do it, though; I'm pretty sure it's Tepperwear that does this method - sc in the first stitch of your row, then ch2 to bring it up to dc height, then continue the row as normal. No holes, no ridges!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...