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About nightowl

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  • Biography
    Housebound for the last 3 years. I love cats, crochet, computers, reading and thinking!
  • Location
    near Canterbury in Kent, UK
  • Interests
    Crochet, reading, criminology, psychology, computing, anything Fortean
  • Occupation
  • How long have you been crocheting?
    Taught myself from a book, aged 9, but seriously only since 2001
  • Favorite things to crochet
    The last thing I thought of! And always snowflakes
  • Favorite Hook
  1. Hey Midds, glad you found a way that worked for you I've only just seen the thread and am a bit late, but if anyone's still interested, I think I know what Bonnie's pattern means. Amie of NexStitch has a video of it here. I often do picots this way when they sit above other stitches, like when you have a shell with picots interspersed, for example; it makes the picot "sit" really nicely And if anyone's really interested (does anyone but me actually *like* picots? ) Mrs Beeton's antique book uses a similar method to make a picot like the ones used in tatting -- just a loop of thread rather than the chain we normally use in crochet. They look neat and delicate and give a different look and -- if you're a picot-hater! -- are much easier than the usual ones. Here's how: 1. Work an sc, pull loop on hook out to desired size. 2. Remove hook and insert it from the top through the front loop of sc just made. 3. Yo, being careful not to yank on the free picot, and draw through a loop. One loop now on hook again, carry on crocheting :-) Of course it's not limited to sc, you can use the method with any stitch. You think the free picot will pull out, but once you have the new loop on your hook, it's quite secure. Smiles,
  2. jb, the line-by-line instructions are very brief and are meant to accompany the chart -- you're going to need to work from the chart to make the doily. As faedragon said, the stitch names don't matter, the symbols will tell you what stitch to do whatever you call it Smiles,
  3. Hmm, Eileen, I tried it out too, and I ended up with the same problem as Darlisa. The 7-ch scallop was attached at one end, where you continue crocheting to finish the second side of the ring; but at the other end it isn't attached anywhere. This looks okay when you're doing the first one, but when you get to the repeat, the problem's obvious. The scallop's other end is meant to attach to the base of the second ring, and there's no mention in the pattern of it. Either there's a bit missing or something's wrong. I viewed the PDF at 400% in Adobe Reader and it honestly doesn't look to me as if the example pictured was worked according to the instructions. You can see, at the base of a couple of the rings, a small hole where the scallops are joined and it looks to me as if they are joined into the original chain that makes the ring. You can also see that there is no continuity between the scallop and the second half of the ring, as there would be if you followed the pattern (you're supposed to work back along the 7 ch, making the scallop, then carry on stitching the ring). If you managed to make it, then I'm wrong, but I swear it looks to me, at that magnification, as if the row of scallops has been added separately. Anyone else agree? Smiles,
  4. Sorry, tygger, but no, it isn't, and never has been. The US single crochet = UK double crochet. Perhaps what you're thinking of is the often-repeated (by US magazines!) statement that the US slip stitch = UK single crochet. That isn't true either, at least these days. It was sometimes used that way in very early patterns, before standard stitch names, but I haven't seen slip stitch called "single" in a British pattern since the mid-1800s Slip stitch is slip stitch both sides of the pond. This Adeline Cordet book is an American publication, by the way Smiles,
  5. Hehe, how terrible, swapnae. . . but you have to buy more thread -- it would be a worse waste to leave the doily unfinished, wouldn't it? Oops, sorry for not spotting that! I've been promising myself new specs for the last year, but there are so many more important things to spend my money on, like yarn and thread. . . <grin> Can't wait to see you finished work! Smiles,
  6. Hi swapnae It looks to me like the row of plain dc's and the chain-loops with the trebles and chains in them are all worked as Round 28; then Round 29 is the round of double-trebles with chains between. Here's how I think it's done: At beginning of Round 28, work 3 ch (or 2 if that's what you prefer) for your first dc, then make 10 dc into the first chain-loop from the row below. Ch 9, turn and attach with an sc into the top st of your initial ch-3, forming a loop. Turn again (you are now working in the right direction again) and ch 4 for your first treble. Work another 11 trebles into the 9-ch loop then finish the shell with 3 ch and an sc into the 10th dc on the previous row -- the one the 9-ch loop springs from. *Work 11 dc in next ch-loop of previous round. Work 11 dc in next ch-loop of prev round. Ch 9, turn and join with an sc into first dc of the group. Turn, ch 4, 11 tr into ch-loop just made, 3 ch, attach with sc into last dc of group. Repeat from * around, ending with a "plain" section (no ch-loop or shell). Join by slip-stitching into the top of the initial ch-3, then the sc attaching the first shell, then the 4 ch forming the fake first tr of the shell. You're now in position to start Round 29 Hope this helps and I haven't made it sound too confusing; if I have, let me know and I'll try to explain more clearly! It looks pretty -- do post a pic if you can when you are finished! Smiles,
  7. I've had success ironing acrylic knitwear using a hot iron over brown paper on top of the piece -- it's a tip I read many years ago in a UK machine knitting magazine. I suspect in the US "brown paper" is probably called something different and more sensible but it's just the plain, brown stuff you use to wrap up parcels for the mail. I wouldn't want to be responsible for ruining anyone's masterpiece, so if you try it please do a test swatch first! I'd be interested though to hear if anyone does try it and whether it works for you. Smiles,
  8. Just popping in to add my two penn'orth. . . Don't want to make anything more complicated than it need be <grin> but: if you've previously ever learned the foundation stitch (a.k.a. chainless start), I thought it was worth a reminder that this kind of pattern -- where you need to increase a lot of stitches at both ends of the same row -- is a perfect place to use it. You would make the extra chains as normal at the end where your yarn is attached and work back across them, forming one sleeve. . . continue across the body. . . then use the foundation stitch to add the extra stitches for the second sleeve at the end of the row. No need to tie on a separate length of chain, easier and more secure! Here's a great tutorial if you need a refresher or want to try it; it even has a demo of just this situation under "Foundation Double Crochet" (though of course you can use any stitch). Smiles,
  9. Understood, Amy Can I just point out, with reference to Amaranthe's post on the method, that a demi-bride is a half-double crochet (UK half-treble), not a double. . . Smiles,
  10. Hi Jaime Your way -- definitely! I wouldn't normally just skip the stitch; it will leave you with a hole. Even if the stitch pattern is a lacy one, the hole will be noticeable. And if it's a garment, the holes will be right next to the seam lines, too, which could make it more difficult for you to put together and look ugly. The only time I can think of where you might want to do this is if you want to make a line of deliberate holes for decoration, or to thread ribbon or such through afterwards. That can look pretty on a raglan sweater If I was doing that, though, I'd make the hole further in, on at least the third stitch from the end and maybe the fourth or even fifth if the stitch pattern allows and depending on gauge, etc. That way it won't interfere with you sewing the pieces together and at least it looks like a deliberate pattern! A bonus is that you get nice smooth edges to make up rather than jagged ones. Smiles,
  11. Hi newthingcrochet Yes, the basic method (one more stitch between increases every round) works for all stitches. The only thing that changes is the number of stitches in the first round (this will also be the number of stitches to increase every round). For dc (UK treble) I'd use 12. The taller the stitch, the more stitches you need to have in that first round. The reason is to do with the geometry of a circle but what it boils down to is that a taller stitch like dc makes a bigger circle than a shorter stitch such as sc, so the measurement around the outside is larger and it takes more stitches to "get around" the circle and keep it lying nice and flat. Smiles,
  12. Hi Shell Thanks for your help! Yes, I did . I've realised what was happening: you can't (or at least I can't) get the Delete button to show if the post in question is the first in a thread; even if there aren't any replies. Posts lower down the thread display the Delete button just fine. Perhaps it's always been like that and I've just never realised it before. I could've sworn I'd deleted a "first post" test thread before, but maybe that's just my memory playing tricks . . . must get more sleep! Smiles,
  13. So can you not see it either now, Shell? How strange. . . I'm sure I've used Delete since the software update. . .
  14. Hi all Have we lost the ability to delete our posts? I used to sometimes do this if I'd been fiddling around in Scratch Pad, for example, and wanted to tidy up after myself I'm sure I did it quite recently, within the last couple of weeks, but when I tried this morning, although the Edit button on the post still gives a pop-up of Edit/Delete when you hover your mouse over it, there no longer seems to be a Delete option offered in the Editor window. Going to the Advanced editor doesn't bring it up either. Or am I going mad? Smiles,
  15. and now is the time for all good men to come to the aid of the party.
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