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Aggie May

Villager
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About Aggie May

  • Rank
    Villager
  • Birthday 03/23/1942

A Few Things About Me

  • Real name
    Colleen
  • Short bio
    I am a grandmother of 7, married for 51 yrs to the same man.
  • Location
    Hamilton, New Zealand
  • Hobbies
    Crochet, Knitting, Gardening, Grandchildren
  • Occupation
    Being a Grandmother.
  • Favorite projects
    Anything quick to make or challenging
  • Crocheting since...
    Since about 1949

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  1. Personally, I would add extra DCs to each shell across a row to create flare. For example, if the original shell is 3DC, CH2 , 3DC into the CH Space of the previous row, work 4DC, CH2 , 4DC. Then on the last row work 5 DC etc with maybe a Picot instead of CH2 in the centre. Of course, I don't know what sort of shell pattern you are using so this is just an overall idea. If you tell us exactly what shell you are planning on using I will be able to tell you exactly what to do. Have fun. Colleen
  2. :cheerWhen changing colours on a blanket, you need to completely finish off and snip the yarn and join the new yarn in, working over the previous tails as you work the new stitches. This is a fail safe way to treat these joins. If you need to join a new ball, same colour, in the middle of the row, place the ends together and tie a knot, leaving nice long tails to finish in later. Remember to stretch out the area before you snip off the leftover yarn so it will not pop out the first time it is handled. Believe me, as long as you pass the tail through the yarn as you weave it in, it will not
  3. Just get them to unpick the last few stitches and either work them tighter or with a smaller hook. I had to do this the other day when my ball of yarn ran out with just an inch left to thread in. I was able to re-do the last couple of stitches to leave a bit more. Also, when working in a shorter tail of yarn, put the needle into the place you want to thread and then thread the needle. Make sure, when you have threaded in the tails, that you stretch the work before you snip off any leftovers. This way you do not have the risk of the tails popping out the first time the piece is handled. H
  4. :thinkSorry but I think Heart has it a little backwards. UK patterns do not have a SC, it is a DC for us but I will agree with others, the HSC will need to be a SL ST because that is the only thing you can do that is smaller than a SC. Maybe you can tell us where the HSC is used. That may help make it clearer as to what you really need to do. Have fun. Colleen:hug PS, For those who need an accurate list of the differences between US & UK, here they are from the horses mouth. Well, I have been using UK patterns for more than 50 years, crocheting for more than 60 but using patterns for
  5. :thinkMy sample sits very flat so I can only assume it is something to do with other peoples hook size & yarn. If you find your RR With No Holes is going frilly, occasionally do a row with just 3DC into the points so you are adding less stitches on that row. Also, make sure you are working in US DCs. Because most people on Crochetville are in the US, I have written the pattern in US DCs so if you use UK DCs you will certainly get a frilly circle because 3 UK DC in each point will be all that is requires on all rows. Whatever you are doing, the Decrease in the valley stays the same. H
  6. :cheerNewtocrochet1976, PM me with your specific problem and I will explain what you need to do. Have fun. Colleen:hug
  7. :cheerI have sent a PM to newtocrochet1976 but thought i would also add a bit here. If you are working on this pattern and it starts to go a bit frilly, just work a row with less stitches in the points. The sample I made is sitting nice and flat but I realise that others work to different tensions so this could be a way to remedy the problem. If it starts to go frilly, fold it in half and see if it is a nice D shape. If it is more of a cresent shape, you will need to do the occasional row with less stitches in the points so work 2 less DC at this place. Just do this as and when you think
  8. :cheerYou certainly can, as long as you make sure you secure the end before cutting off the tail. Have fun. Colleen:hug
  9. :cheerFinally, here is my newest pattern for you to try. This seems the easiest way to get it to as many people as possible in one go so I hope you can make a copy of it from here. Simple Round Ripple With No Holes. Inspired by request from Buckleigh of Crochetville. Designed by Colleen Rose. New Zealand. This pattern may be used to make items to give away or sell but please do not sell the pattern, pass it on for free. Materials: I used 8ply (DK) yarn and a 4mm hook. Allow about 300gms for a reasonable sized Afghan with at least one contrast colo
  10. :thinkIt is not the bottom that is curving, it is the top. You have 18 or so stitches in the SC rows but about 28 in the last row so that is why your piece is curving. You have been increasing. I can see some of the stitches where you have worked at least 2 into one stitch. Concentrate on making just SCs for row after row so that you become proficient at that before you go onto any other stitch. If you start of with just 10 SC in a row it will be much easier to keep 10 stitches in the row and you will quickly see if you are doing the start and finish of the rows incorrectly. Remember, yo
  11. There is not a really easy way to work out yardage from weight because, like someone else said, it totally depends on the thickness of the yarn. Here is a link to a site where you can work out Metrics to Imperial and the reverse. http://www.worldwidemetric.com/metcal.htm There is 1.76 ounces to 50 grams. You can get a bit of an idea on length by looking at the size of the ball of yarn. A 50gm ball or Eyelash type yarn (50mtrs) looks much smaller than a 50gm ball of 8ply acrylic (155mtrs). The suggestion to measure some of the ball and weigh it is good but the room for error i
  12. I am an EXPERT, well I was until someone asked if I knew the definition of EXPERT was. Here it is, X is an unknown quantity and a spurt is a drip inder pressure. So now I am a Very Advanced Beginner. Have fun. Colleen.
  13. When threading in ends of any sort, knots or not, thread colour into colour and stretch where you have threaded before cutting off the ends. Not doing this on a stretchy fabric, which is what crocheting and knitting are, is most likely why the ends pop out in the first place. It has nothing to do with knots. As for knots, do what makes you happy and what gives you the finish you are looking for. Sometimes they are OK sometimes other methods are best. Great discussion though and I have learned lots even after 50 mumble years of crocheting. Have fun, thats what it is all about and if you ha
  14. If you are using regular yarn, you can join by splicing. It really works best with wool or acrylic yarns rather than the fancy fearher type yarns. Un-twist the ends to be joined and break off half the threads, overlap the thinner ends and gently rub together in the palms of your hands. Sometimes a wee bit of moisture helps to get the bits to stick so I am piggy and lick my fingers. Any little bits sticking out after you have carefully worked the joined yarn can be snipped off. If you do not want to do this, be prepared to join at the beginning of a row then cut off the end left if it is long
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