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Aggie May

Villager
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About Aggie May

  • Rank
    Villager
  • Birthday 03/23/1942

A Few Things About Me

  • Real name
    Colleen
  • Short bio
    I am a grandmother of 7, married for 51 yrs to the same man.
  • Location
    Hamilton, New Zealand
  • Hobbies
    Crochet, Knitting, Gardening, Grandchildren
  • Occupation
    Being a Grandmother.
  • Favorite projects
    Anything quick to make or challenging
  • Crocheting since...
    Since about 1949

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  1. Aggie May

    hat help

    I was recently helping a friend crochet a flower. Her method of crochet was to hold the yarn in her right hand and use a knit technique. When she finished her flower, I had a problem working out why hers looked different to mine. Turns out, the direction she passed the yarn meant she was actually crocheting inside out. In your case, it could be that you did not flip your hat through after the first few rows. A hat shape generally wants to be inside out at the start so you just flip it through. The side facing you, as you work, is usually the right side, unless you crochet inside out like my friend. One way to think of it is to look at the hat like a cup and the edge you work on is the edge you would drink from. Hope one of these ideas help. Have fun. Colleen
  2. Aggie May

    counting stitches

    The CH3 or whatever is used at the start of the row is on top of the stitch you worked the SL ST into so you do not need to work into it at the end of the row. Hope this helps. Have fun. Colleen
  3. You are making the ears so the instruction is just for a few stitches. Work HDC then all into the next stitch work DC, TC, DC, now work 1SC into each of next 5 stitches, then into next stitch work DC, TC, DC then into next stitch work HDC. This is how I read it, after looking at the pictures. It is an unusual way to write a pattern because we usually put the instruction the other way around. Hope this helps. Have fun. Colleen. PS, looks like it could be tricky working the row behind the grey so let me know if you have a problem.
  4. Here is my 2c worth. Some yarns cannot be used from the outside so finding the centre is very important, especially with the very large, 250g to 400g balls available. Imagine having a ball that size flopping about as you worked from the outside. No yarn bowl would cope with that. When you pull the middle out of a ball of yarn, even if there is a huge tangle, you can usually find just one thread going back into the ball. This is the end I work with, instead of the outside end. Pull back from the tangle towards the ball as long as you can then go to the other end and do the same. Giving the mess a good shake can also help. If you have to, give the short end of your yarn a gentle pull and see where it moves inside the tangle then you can pull it through until the short end is free. If you can do this several times you will soon have your yarn liberated ready for use. There should be no real "knots" so to speak because of the way yarn is made into balls. It will have 2 ends and nowhere will it actually be tied into a knot, unless you do this yourself in the process. Remember, it is usually the fibres on the yarn that stick together causing the "knots" Believe me, I get frustrated too and have been known to cut off the mess and go back to it later, depending on how far from the end it is and what I am making. Good luck with your next ball of yarn. Have fun. Colleen
  5. Personally, I would add extra DCs to each shell across a row to create flare. For example, if the original shell is 3DC, CH2 , 3DC into the CH Space of the previous row, work 4DC, CH2 , 4DC. Then on the last row work 5 DC etc with maybe a Picot instead of CH2 in the centre. Of course, I don't know what sort of shell pattern you are using so this is just an overall idea. If you tell us exactly what shell you are planning on using I will be able to tell you exactly what to do. Have fun. Colleen
  6. If your pattern is written for the round, it will look different and the rows will need to start and end different, unless the stitches are all the same. What happens when you work in the round? It is just simply making the correct number of chain to stand as the first stitch and joining into the correct stitch when you complete the row. Tell us more so we can help more because it really is easier and neater to join as you go rather than sew after. Have fun. Colleen
  7. A few years back, I wrote a Simple Round Ripple pattern which is very similar to this one. (I can now send this as a PDF if anyone wants it. Just PM me your email address.) I wrote it for both US and UK crocheters. This one is a US version for sure because of the DC which is longer than the UK DC. If you are using DK (8ply) yarn, I would suggest you use a 4mm to 4.5mm because a 5mm may be a bit large and make your finished piece more likely to stretch out of shape as it is used. Have fun. Colleen
  8. If you dampen it again and pin it out flat, stretching evenly as you go, you should be able to get it flat. It should end up wider than it is now. The centre circles look like they need to be made a bit more even so start from the centre, creating your circles, and work to the outside. Create sections by working in quarters. Leave pinned out until dry. Hope this helps. Have fun. Colleen.
  9. Hello Canada. Yes, there are a lot of Hamiltons around the world. Someone here has just written a whole book about all of them. Have not read it but it was selling well. The bit you were having the problem with is telling you that there is a half shell at each end of the row to keep your edges straight. The first row starts and ends with a SC and there is SC between each Shell. The second row needs a half shell at each end or you will end up decreasing. When you have made a Shell, cover half of it over so you can see what I mean. Personally, I use 3DC for Half Shells when doing this sort of pattern. Are you actually doing the rows or just reading it? I have crocheted and knitted for more than 60years and I still find patterns hard to understand without my hook or needles in my hand. Have fun. Colleen
  10. Where in the world are you? The pattern appears to be a US pattern so if you are in the UK or Europe, you may be using the wrong stitches, which will not help you work out the pattern. The DC (Double Crochet) in your pattern is the same as a TR (Treble) in UK/European speak. The shell is formed with DC2, CH1, DC2 and each side of it there is a SC which holds the shell down to give it shape. (On the row with the half shell at the beginning, there is CH3 which stands as your first DC then you work 1DC into the base of that CH3 to form the Half Shell and at the end you will work 2DC into the last stitch.) At the beginning of the row, you SK the first 2 CH, from the foundation chain, and it looks like the pattern is using those stitches as the first SC but you can just work 1 less CH and work your very first SC into the 2nd CH from the hook. The [ ] are being used to show you that this part of the row are worked into the same CH then the * are being used to show you that you repeat * to * for the repeats across the row. The (Shell made) is just telling you what you did with the instruction in the [ ]. This is not the best written version of a Shell Pattern that I have seen. What are you making? Hope this helps. Have fun. Colleen PS, Personally, I would not use the [ ] in this sort of pattern instruction.
  11. Aggie May

    hat help

    I am so pleased it was successful for you. Thank you for letting me know. Remember, I have a lot of information in my old brain, just waiting to get out. Have fun. Colleen
  12. Aggie May

    hat help

    Glad it worked for you. You could combine my suggestion with Aprils link for a really neat finish. It does not matter that you are working in SCs and the link is worked in DCs, it will work just the same for the join. Have fun. Colleen
  13. Aggie May

    hat help

    I would suggest, next time, finish off each colour before you start the next and you will get a much neater seam. It is very tricky to join in a new colour at the end of a row because it is hard to tighten the last colour. There are other ways but I prefer to actually finish off the join and cut the yarn and start again, working over the tails as I start the row so I do not have to neaten the tails in later. I can do a sample to show you if you would like me to. Have fun. Colleen
  14. This is not your problem it is theirs. Do they think we all started crocheting now or did most of us learn when we were young? I learned when I was 7 which is very young and now I am 70, I am still doing it. Does that make me feel old? No, looking in the mirror makes me feel old but as long as I keep them all covered, I am young. Maybe if anyone else says that to you, you can smile sweetly and ask them if they would like to learn to crochet so they could feel for themselves how young it makes you feel. I have never ever had anyone say anything about age when I am sitting in the mall with my knitting/crochet group. We range from early 40s to early 90s with quite a few of us in our 70s. Enjoy and wear earplugs so you don't have to listen to silly comments. Have fun. Colleen
  15. What stitch are you doing? If DCs, you start with 12 and increase 12 each round for a flat circle. If SCs, you start with 6 and increase 6 each round for a flat circle. Of course, you might be using a different stitch which may need a different formula. Have fun. Colleen
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