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crochet smartcat

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About crochet smartcat

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  • Birthday 08/13/1971

A Few Things About Me

  • Real name
  • Location
    Snohomish, WA
  • Hobbies
    crochet, sewing, reading
  • Favorite hook type
  • Favorite projects
    fun stuff for my kids
  • Crocheting since...
  1. They are two different items. A swift is used when winding hanks. (A hank is a long circular winding of yarn (think garden hose). Most handspun and some manufactured yarns are sold in this form.) You can use a swift when winding by hand or with a mechanical winder. Example of one type of yarn swift. A yarn winder is used to create center-pull flat balls of yarn. You can wind left-over skeins or hanks or yarn in any form with a yarn winder. It can be tiring if doing alot, but is much faster than winding by hand. Example of one type of yarn winder. Most yarn winders are the same, look for the best price and buy it.
  2. Get some bobbins to wrap the yarn around, so you only have a small amount of each color that you are working with at any moment. If you don't want to buy bobbins, you can cut pieces of cardboard to wrap the yarn around, or just wrap the yarn into small balls and put them in plastic zip sacks. Keep the amounts small and wrap more yarn if needed and join as a new yarn.
  3. Another thing to remember is if, there is a block of color on multiple rows (right above the previous row of the same color), you do not need to clip the yarn at each row, just at the beginning and end of a color block.
  4. It looks like you should: 2 dc in next dc, ch 2, *dc in next 7 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2. Repeat from * 4 more times. Sl st in top of ch 3. Ch 3, dc in next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc, *dc in next 7 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2. Repeat from * 5 more times. Sl st in top of ch 3. Repeat last line increasing the red number by 2 on each round, until you have reached your desired size. The above instructions will continue increasing the size and maintain the hole placement. I think I would split off the increasing section by adding another ch 2 at some point, but you would have to play with it to decide where it would look best. Without working it to blanket size it is hard to know what it'll work up like.
  5. It would depend on what type of stitch the rest of the rows call for, if it is sc or hdc, then the row below would prolly not be deep enough to contain a double treble. If you are working dc, I'm still not sure that the two rows would be deep enough. I think only treble sts would be deep enough to allow a dtr without the stitch bowing (poking) out. I think depending on the stitch used on each row, the dtr (4 yo's) in 2 rows below should work.
  6. You can use any edging pattern, and what I did when I did a blanket out of crocheted together fleece squares is I used a sewing awl to poke the holes. I then sewed around the edge using a blanket stitch and the yarn that I intended to use. I used a regular tapesty needle for this, since the holes were already made. I just spaced them as evenly as I could. When I started crocheting, I would put as many stitches as I needed in each blanket stitch to make my count come out right. If you wanted to skip the sewing awl and the hand stitching, you could use your sewing machine to sew around the edge and then stitch into that.
  7. What sizes (ages) are you collecting for? Elementary, Teenagers, younger?
  8. You can buy them new, starting at around $65, so I wouldn't go higher than that. However if it has history and is a true antique it may be worth more for you to buy. A hank is just a different packaging for yarn, the yarn is wound in long loops (like a garden hose) and are then tied and twisted into a braid-type shape. These "hanks" always need to be wound before working with them, because it will tangle easily. Alot of handspun and more expensive types of yarn are sold in this form.
  9. The pattern sounds like it should work the way it is written. You start and end R1 with the picot, then on R2, you work 2 sc into each picot space. On R3, you are working 3 dc into each of the ch 4 from R2. Perhaps if you explain what problem you are having with R1, it would be easier to help you with your problem.
  10. The other thing to remember is that when going in the round, the stitches are going to look and work differently, than when you go back and forth. In the round, for a rightie, you will go to the right of the stitch below, doing what cozyhomelife suggests, keeping your yarn overs and stitches tight. For a leftie, you would go to the left of the stitch. When going back and forth (like for an afghan), you will go into the left of the stitch, for righties and to the right, for lefties. You also should always be going through both loops at the top of the stitch, unless the pattern states differently.
  11. Have you tried putting the joined motifs around your head, and if so do they fit? If they are tight you could do an extra motif and then you would have 90 stitches no problem. It is perhaps a mistake in the number of motifs required, rather than the number of stitches. Since you are afraid of it not fitting to begin with, I would be more inclined to add an extra motif (if the strip of joined motifs is tight) than to try to decrease the number of stitches required.
  12. Ch 4, skip first 2 dc (which I understand), *dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc;You will put your first dc in the 3rd dc of the previous row, then ch 1, and dc into the 5th dc (or 2nd from your last dc) rep from * to last st;You will repeat the ch 1, skip a dc, dc into the second dc, until you get to the turning chain. dc in top of ch-3, turn. I don't know whether I'm supposed to dc in the space between the 'columns' created by the dcs, or am I supposed to dc in the top of the chain?You are dc into the top of the previous dc on this row. Also, is the 'top' of ch 3 (at the end) counting from the hook? This is your turning ch 3 from the previous row. Row 3 instructs Ch 3(turning chain), * dc in ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * across working alst dc in 3rd ch of ch-4. I understand the last part, but the first part doesn't look right - there are too many spaces. The picture shows a 'tighter' weave, with 'holes' in the odd numbered (every even numbered[2, 4, 6, & 8] row will have the holes, odd [3, 5, 7, & 9] numbered rows will be solid dc)rows. Maybe I am doing it right, but the ending side of the scarf isn't going to look like the beginning side. I'm to end with Row 9. hope this helps
  13. I prefer to sew all my squares together, and what I do is, I will make multiple stitches in the larger square's stitches so that I catch each of the smaller square's stitches. I do occasionally skip a stitch here or there, but I try to make a pattern of the extra stitches or skipped stitches so that it looks intentional rather than random or helter skelter. I also find that securing the squares together prior to sewing (or stitching) helps me keep them aligned and on track, so I don't end up with extra or too few stitches at the end. I use seaming pins or stitch markers or pieces of contrasting yarn to hold the squares together.
  14. I did a search on this pattern grouping before, because I had seen them free. The reason I saw them free is because it is up to each person that buys the patterns whether to charge (and resell them) or just put them on their website. Some people choose to resell them, others offer them free. I am not sure where they get their patterns and if they all are true vintage and out of copyright, but unless you want to research each and every pattern, I would assume they are okay. If you want to see the patterns offered, here is someone offering the patterns for free. 20 Vintage Crochet Patterns
  15. You will slip stitch into the beginning ch 1, the ch 1 counts as your first stitch and with the 7 dc, totals 8 stitches. Hope this answers your question. This sounds like a European pattern with only a ch 1 at the beginning, is that what it is?
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