Need help with "graph type" pattern...

[ROBERTAJS21]

Hi, I've been crocheting for about 50 years but had to stop for about 30 due to life....I found several patterns that I love but I'm not quite sure how to interpret them. I think they are called grid or graph patterns. anyways I much prefer the good old fashioned regular patterns where the designer states exactly how to work each and every row! So here's my problem....when I'm reading/working the pattern from left to right is not a problem but...when I turn do I read the grid/graph from right to left or left to right? If that doesn't make sense maybe the attached will....after the first few rows, the pattern says "now continue to follow the graph etc... " So..... after I turn then ch 3 do I follow the pattern from left to right or right to left? And....for the "solid square" is it only just 2 DC or is it 3 DC and the "holes" are they 1 DC, and 1 ch 1, or, are the holes 1 DC, ch 1, & 1 dc?  In the attached image (I haven't started it yet) I can easily figure out the NOEL part of it but once it gets to the tree design I want it to be done right so ANY help is appreciated. Oh, one more thing.....I am left handed and sometimes people send images that are for right handed and I can't always get it!

So for row 21 do I turn, ch 3 then 3 solids, 1 hole, 14 solids, 4 holes etc or is it turn, ch 3 dc 3 solids, 1 hole, 14 solids, 1 hole, 2 solids, 1 hole etc to the end....

OR.... row 22: do I turn, ch 3 then 3 solids, 1 hole, 15 solids, 5 holes etc or turn, ch 3, 3 solids, 1 hole, 11 solids, 1 hole, 8 solids, 1 hole, 2 solids etc....

I hope you can understand my blabbering...THANKS!!!!!

[Tampa Doll]

When I do graph work, I read the first row and every odd row right to left.

Second row and all even rows are left to right. 

I always make an extra copy of the graph, so I can mark off the rows I have worked.

I wish I could be more help, but I have not done graphs with anything but c2c or sc.

I am sure someone will be here to help.

 

[Granny Square]

Pretty pattern!  I make a lot of doilies, including filet ones like this.   For filet, trust me, following a written pattern (3 dc, chain 2 sort of thing) really is a LOT harder to follow, compared to following a graph.  

I am going to link to a tutorial that I think is excellent - Haas crochet basic filet.  Just for reference.

My method of working filet: Most patterns I use are are more or less printer paper size.  I have a piece of sturdy cardboard that I can clip the pattern to with a binder clip, and a thinner piece of cardboard that's a row marker--it's the width of the pattern, and maybe 2-3" high.  On row 1, I use the row marker cardboard to cover up row 2 and up - I only want to see row 1 to start, and I only want to see the current row I'm working, plus the prior rows, after that.  I read and work row 1 right to left, the direction one (who is  right handed) normally works filet.

At the end of the row, I put a little tick mark with a pencil at the end of the row - to mark where I left off.  For row 2, I move the binder clip and row marker cardboard so I can see row 2, plus row 1 below it.  This is important, because seeing where you have 'been' on your fabric and your paper graph is key to keeping yourself oriented.  For row 2, you are going to read the graph left to right, which sounds hard but you aren't reading a book you're reading 'filled, open, open' and so forth, and at the end of row 2, mark the spot you left off.  If you put your work down, you will always be able to tell where you are, including which direction you should read the graph for the next row.  

Check frequently to make sure your grids are lining up correctly with the pattern, this is why it is important to be able to see where you have been both on the pattern and your work. ...I see Tampa Doll has just replied, we are on the same page, you'd work a colorwork graph the same way (right to left, left to right etc).

 

[ROBERTAJS21]

THanks I appreciate the help. Guess I'll just have to get used to doing things differently. I never realized I was one of the "old dogs that couldn't learn a new trick" but I'm trying. Or I guess I could stick to the zillions of other patterns out there. But it still bugs me that I have to pay for a pattern then sit down and decypher it before I can even start. THanks again and if I'm not too embarrassed by the end product, I may share it for you to see!! LOL

THanks,

Roberta

[Granny Square]

You're welcome, I hope you end up enjoying this technique, it is one of those things that maybe sounds harder than it is.  Really, it's just counting to 3 over and over again.  And, following a colorwork graph or filet graph is a trick way older than either of us!  Looking forward to seeing your project when it's done.

[ROBERTAJS21]

Wait, what do you mean to count to 3 over and over again? Is each "block" 3 stitches, (that's what I was asking cuz 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc for a "hole" is 3 stitches)....then I was matching the blocks by counting 1dc for one side, 1 dc for the center and 1 dc for the other side....so each block whether it be a "hole" or a "block" is counted as 3???

THanks,

Roberta

[NCcountrygal]

3 hours ago, ROBERTAJS21 said:

Wait, what do you mean to count to 3 over and over again? Is each "block" 3 stitches, (that's what I was asking cuz 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc for a "hole" is 3 stitches)....then I was matching the blocks by counting 1dc for one side, 1 dc for the center and 1 dc for the other side....so each block whether it be a "hole" or a "block" is counted as 3???

THanks,

Roberta

Maybe, this will help.  The Basics of Filet Crochet (thesprucecrafts.com)

[Granny Square]

"Wait, what do you mean to count to 3 over and over again? Is each "block" 3 stitches, (that's what I was asking cuz 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc for a "hole" is 3 stitches)....then I was matching the blocks by counting 1dc for one side, 1 dc for the center and 1 dc for the other side....so each block whether it be a "hole" or a "block" is counted as 3???"

Yes, each block is 3 stitches: 3 DC for the filled block.  Your description that I bolded above is NOT an open block - an open block is 2 chains, 1 DC.  The only time when it looks different is at the beginning of a row, and I'm sorry I overlooked explaining that before - the beginning of a row is always a DC, because you can't start a row with a chain in the air if the first mesh is an open mesh.  That extra first stitch doesn't count as part of a block, and is also there if the first block is a filled one.

Edited to add -- Sorry NCCountrygal, I just looked at your link and I really, really, don't approve of the Spruce Crafts explanation of 'sharing a stitch'.  A lot of sites try to explain filet that way and it is not true ; and based on questions here in the past, that 'shared stitches' way of explaining filet has caused people to run away screaming from filet.  There are certain mesh sequences that might lead a person to think that there are shared stitches*, but RobertaJS21 I suggest you follow 'count to 3' and the info on the site I linked and I promise you, it is really easy.  And do make sure that your blocks are lining up, sometimes I've goofed counting to 3.

* If you have an open mesh, then some number of closed meshes, and then another open mesh, the DC that ends the first open mesh 'looks like' it is part of the closed mesh group - but it does not belong to those meshes, it is not shared, it is counted as part of the open mesh.  

 

Edited December 21, 2021 by Granny Square

[ROBERTAJS21]

OK,  I'm sorry to keep asking but I'm making this as a gift and I want it to be perfect so... the "noel" pattern I will count each "hole" as 3 (which means 1 dc, ch 1 and 1 dc" then for the next 2 blocks I'll stitch 6 dc, then next "hole" will be 1 dc, ch 1 1 dc" correct?? once I get going and feel comfortable with doing this new to me pattern I'm sure it will click but I want to start right. I don't want to start with miscounts!!

Then.....when I read the graph at the end of a row I turn first then ch 3 then 1 dc in next st.... but do I read from right to left on every other row, or do I just refer to the printed image and read left to right always?

THanks,

Roberta

[NCcountrygal]

On 12/21/2021 at 12:39 PM, Granny Square said:

Edited to add -- Sorry NCCountrygal, I just looked at your link and I really, really, don't approve of the Spruce Crafts explanation of 'sharing a stitch'.  A lot of sites try to explain filet that way and it is not true ; and based on questions here in the past, that 'shared stitches' way of explaining filet has caused people to run away screaming from filet.  There are certain mesh sequences that might lead a person to think that there are shared stitches*, but RobertaJS21 I suggest you follow 'count to 3' and the info on the site I linked and I promise you, it is really easy.  And do make sure that your blocks are lining up, sometimes I've goofed counting to 3.

 

Not a problem.  🙂  It was a quick search that I hoped would provide some value for Roberta.

[Granny Square]

There used to be another site that diagrammed the elements like the Haas site I linked above, Smart Crochet, that I have linked to here on the past; but the site is now defunct.  It was really well done, it had the stitch diagrams like Haas plus more detailed explanation.  I don't know of another similar one that describes the process accurately (not that there aren't any, I just haven't run into them).

Edited December 23, 2021 by Granny Square

[ROBERTAJS21]

HI, Granny Square....thanks but I have no idea what you just said!! Guess I'll go with my interpretation of the stitches but I'd still like to know how to read the graph pattern so I don't do the wrong thing and waste my time.

Do I read the graph patterns left to right then right to left until I'm done or do I read left to right like I was reading a book?

[bgs]

Here is another explanation of filet.  It does mention the shared stitch and is a 4 stitch block rather than a 3.  I liked the section ONE MORE POINT OF VIEW: OPEN MESH APPROACH.  

Odd numbered rows are worked from right to left.  Even numbered rows are worked from from left to right. BUT that is for crocheting right handed. Read this info for left handed people especially the section on Working on Graphs and note that it says "the first row of right side (front of work) will be read left to right.  The wrong side (back of work) will be read from right to left.

 

[NCcountrygal]

4 hours ago, ROBERTAJS21 said:

HI, Granny Square....thanks but I have no idea what you just said!! Guess I'll go with my interpretation of the stitches but I'd still like to know how to read the graph pattern so I don't do the wrong thing and waste my time.

Do I read the graph patterns left to right then right to left until I'm done or do I read left to right like I was reading a book?

https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=554&type_id=T
quote
Reading filet crochet graphs can be a bit challenging at first. The "filled-in" squares of the graph are called blocks, which usually consist of three double crochets worked into three separate stitches, or chains, of the previous row.

The open square is the "mesh" or openwork, which is a mixture of double crochets and chain stitches. The graphs are generally numbered by stitches and rows, and are automatically written for right-handed stitchers. It will be necessary for the left-handed crocheter to amend the graph slightly before starting a crochet project. If you do not amend the graph, you would still be able to complete your project, but the finished crochet piece will be reversed from the graph and crochet project pictured in your pattern! This might not be a major problem with color-change graphs or filet pictures, but if you are doing a filet crochet graph with wording, your words would be written backwards!

It is necessary for the left-handed crocheter to read the first row of the graph from left to right; (right-handed crocheters read the first row of the graph from right to left). For filet crochet graphs, the stitches will be different but the graphs will be read in the same way. The first row of the right side (front of work) will be read from left to right. The wrong side (back of work) will be read from right to left. unquote

[NCcountrygal]

Left Hand Basic Filet Crochet Tutorial
This video will show you all the basics (mesh, increase, decrease, how to count the stitches with your graph) of working Filet crochet. This is a super long and wordy video so be warned. There is no going over how to crochet, you need to know how to double crochet and chain already. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVfmjqOgRoY
 

[NCcountrygal]

removed 

Edited December 23, 2021 by NCcountrygal

[NCcountrygal]

So, I'm thinking about your pattern...not sleepy.

Afghan
chain 162
r 1 (right side) (160 stitches)turn
r 2 chain 3 counts as first dc throughout... turn
r 3 ... turn
r4  now continue to follow graph- (first 3 rows were the written instructions according to pattern notes)
until 106 rows of graph completed

Do the pattern instructions (notes) define your blocks (3)? (just checking as we're giving you basic filet instr. and sometimes pattern designers define what is and isn't)

************

Original question:
" So..... after I turn(after row 3) then ch 3 do I follow the pattern from left to right or right to left? And....for the "solid square" is it only just 2 DC or is it 3 DC and the "holes" are they 1 DC, and 1 ch 1, or, are the holes 1 DC, ch 1, & 1 dc?

->the graph should have numbers per row, if not count up 4 rows.  Since most designs are written for right handed this may be where you need to be careful regarding "NOEL".  row 1 was your right side per pattern and per graph would have started on the right side.  row 2 would be on the left of graph., row 3 back to the right and row 4 back on the left side of the graph.

*************

"And....for the "solid square" is it only just 2 DC or is it 3 DC and the "holes" are they 1 DC, and 1 ch 1, or, are the holes 1 DC, ch 1, & 1 dc? "

Typically, it's what granny square stated 3DC. 

"the holes 1 DC, ch 1, & 1 dc"   does the pattern define?

Is this a purchased pattern, magazine or free online?  Can you add photo of small section of graph?  I'm thinking this isn't filet, but has openwork spaces for the letters and tree.

Edited December 23, 2021 by NCcountrygal
question added

[NCcountrygal]

Found a listing at Mary Maxim.

Noel Christmas Throw Afghan Blanket Crochet 
Mary Maxim
https://www.marymaxim.ca/noel-throw-pattern-33130.html

and a finished blanket(s) on Etsy, as well as kits.

Here's one. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1066990648/filet-crochet-noel-afghan-noel-holiday
Finished blanket on Etsy. $62.99

[Granny Square]

Sorry Roberta -- I should have 'addressed' my last post to NCcountrygal (that you didn't understand what I said), was about Filet sites that described the traditional process different ways.

And I want to apologize.  What I was describing, and linking to, was traditional filet.  Then when I caught up with the thread just now and Mary Maxim was mentioned, a light bulb went off, and I went back and re-read your pattern - actually I should say read, because I skimmed it before and MISSED that your pattern wasn't written in traditional filet.  A question came up a few months ago (might have even been this pattern) on a Mary Maxim 'filet' pattern that was not written in a 2-stitch filet scheme--like I now realize yours is. 

In your pattern a mesh is not square like traditional ones, it is tall and skinny - a in your pattern a solid mesh is 2 DC, and an open mesh is --there are only 2 possibilities, and I think it is DC, chain 1.  (Based on, in row 1 & 2, the chain-1 is in an even number of stitches from the start)

[ROBERTAJS21]

One more question if I may.....is there a good resource for learning how to change colors or add another skein of yarn in the middle of a row so the know doesn't show? 99% of the time mine look fine but sometimes no matter what I do, it looks horrible. I probably should add I am self taught. I picked up a hook and some yarn when I was about 9 and taught myself how to read a pattern and I'm pretty happy to say I can do almost every stitch out there. I will be honest and say I do get stuck once in awhile but most of the time I can figure it out on my own. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I probably should have done this a long long time ago but I'm trying to fine tune my stitching and finishing.

THANKS SOOOOOOOOO MUCH!!

Roberta

 

[Granny Square]

I use the Russian join while joining 2 skeins of the same color all the time, but have not tried this while switching colors (I don't do all that much colorwork). The method is identical, the hard part (I would think) would begetting the join to happen exactly where you want it. I know I've seen a youtube on this, let me look...

Just FYI on joins in general (same color), I also use the braided join, and probably more often than the Russian one - it may not be, but it seems like it should be sturdier.  And both are really hard to spot, even where you know just where they are.

Russian join video