Is clothing a lot harder to crochet than scarves, blankets and hats?

[CrochetisCrack2001]

I'm thinking of venturing into the "Intermediate" level patterns, which contain a lot of clothing pieces. Any tips? So far I've made a couple of blankets, a few hats, few scarves and one shawl. Am I ready lol?

[Kbear]

I don't look at that. If I like it I give it a try.

Just read the pattern, and crochet what it says.

 

I say give it a try.

[Valsey]

I would just give it a try, the main difference is that a lot of clothing patterns require you too piece it together.

[mclendon1]

I guess it's just like any thing else, depends on what you are trying to make. I've seen A LOT of blanket patterns that I don't think I'll ever be good enough to make. If I were going to start trying wearables, I'd start w/ a tank top, or baby pinafore dress. I have made a BICO; it was easy. I just don't want to spend the time making something, then "out grow" it! LOL.

[klouised]

When I got into making clothing, I started with a tank top and baby clothes. It sounds like you are ready. The level of difficulty in a pattern is sometimes how the designer writes their patterns out. Some explain more and take more pics than others. I say give it a try.

[Amy]

The directions for clothing patterns oftentimes aren't any more difficult than patterns for other things. The difficulty can come if you need to adjust gauge, hook size, etc. so that you come up with the right measurements for the finished piece.

 

Many time there can be up to a 4" difference in sizes in a crochet pattern. For example, a crochet sweater with a 36" bust and a 40" bust. If you have a 38" bust, one may be too small and the other too big. You may find things fit better if you know how to make fitting adjustments.

[CrochetisCrack2001]

Yes I was worried about the fitting as well. I haven't done extremely well on my gauges for the hats and wraps. I have one hat I can't even wear it's so big even though I used the hook size it called for, etc. And my Mom's blue jean shawl came out a little small for my liking.

 

The projects I was looking at recently, though, were the new ones in the Crochet Today magazine. There's a shrug made by putting squares together as well as a little baby dress and jacket I'd love to make. It just seems difficult cause I notice that a lot of people don't tell you where to join if you're starting another part of the outfit or if the pattern will need assembly or if it's one piece, etc. Makes it kinda intimidating, and I know how frustrated I get when I can't figure directions out. But I may give it a whirl, and I can always frog it.

 

Thanks!

[crocheting turtle]

Give it a whirl. Like you say, you can always frog it. I can't tell you how many times I have frogged items. You have nothing to lose and experience to gain. Good luck!

[Valsey]

I must have frogged the latest sweater I made for my niece 20x. This was a sweater I had made before and had no problems. There is no shame in frogging. Just jump in and if you get stuck we are always here for you to answer your questions or if you just need to vent

[boksie]

Go for it! I've only made wearables for my sons when they were little guys and a couple baby sweaters. Some patterns are easier to read than others so I'd make a suggestion that for your first wearable you might want to try something that has been made by someone here so you can get advice if you run into problems. One time I made a shawl and it ended up so big I could have wrapped the whole family up in it lol! Happy hooking...

[CrochetisCrack2001]

Yeah I think I will give it a whirl...I can always go back to making blankets and scarves right lol? Thanks gals!

[FrLopLady]

make sure you check your gauge to determine what hook you really need! I've been doing the little granny squares with different colored yarn, same brand...and I have to go up and down 2 hook sizes to get the same size square!

[Granny Square]

Gauge has been mentioned before, I'll bring it up again because it's really important. If it says x stitches and y rows =4", make a gauge swatch at least 6" and measure the 4" in the middle. If you are off even a little bit on that little swatch, you will be off a lot on the finished wearable.

 

On the other hand, if your gauge swatch is a little off it could work to your advantage in the example Amy gave (in-between sizes, you want 38" but the pattern is either 36" or 40"). Do the math. Pick a finished garment size you want to end up at. Look at how many pattern stitches are across the critical measurement in the pattern. Calculate your gauge per inch:

 

Divide the # if stitches in your 4" swatch by 4, keeping the fraction (this is your sts per inch) example: 4.2

 

Divide the number of pattern sts across the bust (assuming a sweater) (example: 80 st for the 40" size) by the number of your gauge sts per inch: 19.05 inches.

 

Most sweaters are made in 2 pieces, front and back, that are most often made the same (or with corresponding measurements if it's a cardigan) up to the sleeves. So, my example was measuring the back, so adding the front: 19 x 2=38". Hey, you are lucky--because of your fractional 0.2" gauge difference your sweater will fit @ 38" versus being too big @ 4 st/inch=40".

 

Follow the pattern for whatever gauge stitch calculation works for you. I'm not, er, a 'small', but have followed patterns for that size because my gauge was looser than the designer and it worked.

 

It's more important to hit gauge in the stitches across, not the rows. Most patterns say 'work for x inches' before shaping the next section, not 'work x rows', so you don't need to worry as much about your row height.