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testing gage question


werecat

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Ok I will admit it. I haven't ever checked my gage before. I never made anything that it was that major a deal in before. Afghans? So the size of the finished is a bit different than the original pattern. Slippers? I usually make one out of scrap first to see if I like it and how I would change it anyway. But now.... I found a wrapped cardigan sweater pattern that goes up big enough to fit me [5X] and I want to make it in a different yarn than the pattern says. Pattern suggests worsted weight and I am seriously thinking lion suede in the waterlillies (I think that was the name) varigated colours. Gage on the pattern says 13 stitches X 13 rows = 4" / 10 cm. Is it safe to assume that is single crochet?

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I don't think I've ever checked my gauge because anytime I've made wearables it's either been a wrap/poncho/whatever. If I make a top I usually design it myself, trying it on while I'm making it.

 

I would probably do a swatch if I were trying a pattern for sweaters/such.

 

CK is right, the gauge swatch should be done it the stitch the pattern is using.

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I so don't understand gauge. I have, on occasion made up the gauge swatch and the mesurements have come out right. I don't have a clue to what that means. I'm like most of y'all and like to switch out differents yarns that what the pattern recomends. I to have got caught with out enough or way to much. I'm sure if I understood gauge more, I might not have the problem as often. I also want to try my hand and creating stuff, but I don't know how to determine how much yarn I should purchase or if I may have enough in my stash for the planned project. There are so many wonderful stiches that I am dying to try but I don't want to run out of yarn in mid stream. Can anyone help this feeble minded gal out. I would be enternally grateful and name you one of my crochet saints.:D Thanks so much.

RoesmaryP.

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I so don't understand gauge. I have, on occasion made up the gauge swatch and the mesurements have come out right. I don't have a clue to what that means.

 

Hi Rosemary

 

The basic concept of gauge (we call it "tension" here in the UK, and it certainly causes some, LOL) is really simple.

 

Imagine that you want to make a piece that's 6in across. You measure your work and find it takes 10sts to make an inch, so you need 60sts, yes? But if you're making 5sts to an inch, you'd need only 30sts. Now, if you followed a 10st=1in pattern with 60sts but were really only crocheting 5sts per inch, you'd end up with a piece twice as wide as you wanted :eek

 

So the gauge is the math that's been used to work out the number of stitches and rows in your instructions, and you need to match the gauge to have your work come out the same size as the pattern.

Gauge is usually given over 4in rather than 1in, because a larger swatch is more accurate. It would read something like "12 sc = 4in using a J hook". That doesn't mean that as long as you use a J hook too, your garment will be the right size! It just gives you an idea where to start. You may crochet more loosely or more tightly than the designer, so you need to do a swatch to check. You might find you need to go up or down several hook sizes but it's matching the gauge that's important, not the hook size you use.

 

I'm like most of y'all and like to switch out differents yarns that what the pattern recomends. I to have got caught with out enough or way to much. I'm sure if I understood gauge more, I might not have the problem as often. I also want to try my hand and creating stuff, but I don't know how to determine how much yarn I should purchase or if I may have enough in my stash for the planned project. There are so many wonderful stiches that I am dying to try but I don't want to run out of yarn in mid stream. Can anyone help this feeble minded gal out.

 

The key thing here is yardage. You need to work out the number of yards the original pattern used. It's the length of yarn in the skein that's important, not the number of skeins. If the pattern doesn't tell you the yardage of the original yarn, look it up on the manufacturer's website, or in a database like Yarndex. If it's an old pattern and the yarn is discontinued, try the Vintage Yarns Chart. Look up your intended yarn too, then make sure you buy enough to give you the same yardage and a bit extra for luck.

 

For example, suppose you have a pattern calling for 20 skeins of Lion Brand Jiffy Thick & Quick and you want to make it with Chenille Thick & Quick instead. The Jiffy comes in 84yd skeins, so the pattern uses 20 x 84yd = 1680yd. The Chenille comes in 100yd skeins (solids) or 75yd skeins (prints). 1680/100 = 16.8; 1680/75 = 22.4. So you're going to need 17 skeins of a solid colour or 23 if you choose a print. To be safe, buy a ball or two extra.

 

For a design of your own, look at existing patterns in the yarn weight you're intending to use and work out the total yardage. This should give you a rough idea of what you need, but be sure to buy plenty. There's also a chart here that gives a guide; it's for knitting, but says at the top "Add 30% for crochet".

 

Phew! Sorry for the length of this. Hope it helps some :hook

--

Nowl

 

 

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Thanks. I kinda get it. But here's another question. What does the guage on the back of the yarn represent? How does that relate to patterns and the like? A hobby that requires math. Yuck. And I want to become a teacher, and I can't figure out gauge? Oh well, I'll work on my afghan and ease some "tension".:D . Don't worry, I'll put you in list of personal crochet saints. :) .

 

Rosemary

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The gauge on the back of the yarn is basically a guide, not a definite. I for one tend to crochet a bit tighter than what the manufacturer's gauge states, so I usually need to do a test swatch. Like others here, I usually don't bother for afghans, but do need to if I'm going to crochet a sweater or top...PAM

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Thanks. I kinda get it. But here's another question. What does the guage on the back of the yarn represent? How does that relate to patterns and the like? A hobby that requires math. Yuck. And I want to become a teacher, and I can't figure out gauge? Oh well, I'll work on my afghan and ease some "tension".:D . Don't worry, I'll put you in list of personal crochet saints. :) .

 

Heh, I'm not much of a saint, more of a :devil

 

I do sympathise; math was my worst subject at school. But it's really only a way of making sure both you and the pattern are using the same size "units" to build the garment. Otherwise it'd be like following a recipe and using tablespoons instead of teaspoons :lol

 

The gauge on the yarn label is a guide to what the manufacturer thinks makes a nice fabric, not too stiff, not too loose. It also helps to classify the weight of the yarn and is very useful to know when you want to substitute another yarn. For example, if you know the recommended yarn knits at 18sts to 4in, you should be able to use any yarn that knits to the same gauge. (I use the knit gauge because here, at least, the crochet information isn't often on the label.)

 

--

Nowl

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Thank you friends. I think it may finally be sinking in. I appreciate the help. That link was awsome. I copied the page and it will live in my pattern binders as a reference. I just knew this place was filled with helpful folks. Even:devil can still be on my list.

 

Rosemary

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