New to crocheting

[RetireMe]

Please help! I am trying to make a crochet watch cap as a project in my Fabric Ministry. Could some one direct me to a resource that will show/tell me how to do the following:

ch2,*DC 1, DC 2 into 1st*, work ** 10X around - 30 sts

The pattern continues as the next round reads: ch2, *DC1, DC 2 into 1 st* 15X - 45 sts

I keep getting something that looks like a platter with low sides! So, I take it apart and start over! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Seasons Greetings

[NCcountrygal]

55 minutes ago, RetireMe said:

Please help! I am trying to make a crochet watch cap as a project in my Fabric Ministry. Could some one direct me to a resource that will show/tell me how to do the following:

ch2,*DC 1, DC 2 into 1st*, work ** 10X around - 30 sts

The pattern continues as the next round reads: ch2, *DC1, DC 2 into 1 st* 15X - 45 sts

I keep getting something that looks like a platter with low sides! So, I take it apart and start over! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Seasons Greetings

The name of the pattern and whether it's free for viewing would help in deciphering the instructions.  If not please include some detail.  Row 1 exactly as written.  Is what you've included above the starting point?  Are you able to contact designer?

guessing, I would say and assuming there's a row before this:  chain 2, dc in stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, repeat 10x around. final count (30sts)

Next round, ch2, (repeat) dc, 2dc, dc,2dc ...15x final count after this round (45sts)

[Granny Square]

Welcom to the 'ville, Retireme! 

This pattern instruction does not make any sense.  You can DC 1 into the first stitch, or DC 2 into the first stitch, but as written the instruction is telling you to DC 1 AND DC 2 into the first stitch, which means 3 into the first stitch.  

Like NCcountrygal described, the 'recipe' for most crocheted hats (typically made top down) are to make a flat circle by increasing each round until you reach a certain diameter, then work without increasing until you get the depth you want.  What size are you trying to make?  Example, my head is 22" measured where the brim of a hat would sit - that is the circumference of the circle that will fit me.  Pi x diameter = circumference, which means circumference divided by pi is diameter.  Pi is 3.14, so 22" divided by pi happens to be 7" to with a thousandth of an inch (close enough!)  So for my head, without using a pattern I'll make a circle 7", then work even until I get the depth I want.

More to the 'recipe', which starts for a flat circle:  the key is SC=6, HDC=9, DC=12.  These are number of stitches in the first round of the circle, and the number you increase by each round.  Example, sc:

rnd 1- start with 6 sc in a magic ring.

rnd 2 - 2 sc in each sc (total now 12)

rnd 3 - *1 sc, 2 sc in the next stitch, repeat (total now 12)

rnd 4 - *2 sc, 2 sc in the next stitch, repeat (total now 18)

rnd 5 - *3 sc2, 2 sc in the next stitch, repeat (total now 18)

See the pattern forming in the bold numbers?  After round 2, you start making an increasing number of plain SCs between increases.  Keep doing this until you get the diameter you want.  This is for SC, for DC you'd start with 12, row 2 would be 24, row 3 would be 36, and so on.

Here is a site for 'head sizes' for babies to grownups.  I am pretty sure I've seen multi-sized patterns for hats as well, in case you don't want to venture out on your own, I'll see if I can find one.

 

 

[Granny Square]

deleted - no idea why my above post replicated itself twice after the original, sorry!

Edited December 25, 2021 by Granny Square

[Granny Square]

deleted

Edited December 25, 2021 by Granny Square

[Granny Square]

Here is one, chunky yarn, choose the size (adult, 2 child sizes).  (bernat pattern)  It looks like it is made brim up so the top down math above doesn't apply.

Another, US #4 worsted weight yarn, 3 sizes https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-us/p/family-beanies-in-caron-united-downloadable-pdf

This one looks top down, US #4 weight, simple stitch pattern (probably not a bad idea if you are making charity hats, they'd work up quickly) https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ridges-family-hat

 

 

[NCcountrygal]

FYI

Here on Crochetville. 
https://forum.crochetville.com/topic/163519-crochet-beginner-online-or-book-resources/

[bgs]

I think 2 dc into 1st is telling you to crochet 2 dc into one stitch not the first stitch.

 

[Granny Square]

2 DC into first stitch makes sense.  "Gordo was the 1st chihuahua to rescue a skier from an avalanche" would be understood because of the context, but 1st  is a thoughtless way to to express 'first' in a crochet pattern.  I would be wary of the clarity of rest of the pattern.

[bgs]

2 hours ago, Granny Square said:

2 DC into first stitch makes sense.  "Gordo was the 1st chihuahua to rescue a skier from an avalanche" would be understood because of the context, but 1st  is a thoughtless way to to express 'first' in a crochet pattern.  I would be wary of the clarity of rest of the pattern.

I totally agree with you but as you know we have been seeing some really horribly written patterns.   I am grateful that when I was learning to crochet the patterns were in books or flyers so I could look at them prior to purchase.  

[Granny Square]

*sigh*, alas yes.  Glad I learned on vintage patterns (from yarn and thread companies), they were terse but accurate!

[RetireMe]

Wow! You all are GREAT! The information you provided is priceless! The cap is titled Crochet Watch Cap by Emily Johannesburg. I will see if I can contact her for clarity. The cap is worked from the top down and I did fine with rows 1 and 2. The third row became my problem. Row 1 reads: ch 2, DC 10 St’s into loop, slip into ch 2 to join -10 St’s; Row 2 reads: ch 2, DC 2 into every st around, join - 20 St’s; Row 3 reads: ch 2, *DC 1, DC 2 into 1 st*, work ** 10X around - 30 St’s. Increases continue over 9 rows and I was trying to make a medium size hat which has a total of 84 St’s. If I can’t reach Ms Johannesburg, I will use other cap references you all have suggested! Again, thank you!

[NCcountrygal]

"Row 1 reads: ch 2, DC 10 St’s into loop, slip into ch 2 to join -10 St’s;

Row 2 reads: ch 2, DC 2 into every st around, join - 20 St’s;

Row 3 reads: ch 2, *DC 1, DC 2 into 1 st*, work ** 10X around - 30 St’s.

Increases continue over 9 rows and I was trying to make a medium size hat which has a total of 84 St’s. "

Row 3 :  chain 2(doesn't count as a st) dc in first stitch, 2dc in next repeat this sequence around.  ie 1 dc, 2 dc, 1dc, 2dc  (30 sts)

row 4 deviates from some hat increases, but follow directions as written.  At the end of that row you should have a total of 45 dc stitches.

🙂

Additional, helpful information.

https://easycrochet.com/crochet-hat-size-chart/
Average Crochet Hat/Beanie Size Chart

and a hat diagram showing different measurement areas  

Edited December 25, 2021 by NCcountrygal
add info

[Granny Square]

I am still shaking my head at your pattern, I hope it works out.

I'm going to throw out a piece of advice that I give to most beginner crocheters--I recommend that you follow patterns from legitimate sources that are likely to be tech edited.  Free 'legit' sources are free-crochet.com for example, these are free DRG publications patterns (originally from Crochet! magazine, Crochet World, Annies Attic books), Leisure Arts, or patterns from yarn companies (like Lion Brand, Yarnspirations, Universal yarn--these cover most US brands).  Or purchase legitimate DRG patterns from e-patterns central, or Leisure Arts or Yarn Company patterns/books.

Do not buy patterns directly from a designer while you are just starting out.  I've been crocheting for decades, can afford to get 'burned' if I buy a bad pattern, and could probably decipher a poorly written pattern or 'wing it' by looking at the photo--but I have the experience to know how to arrive at a different and reasonable end that a beginner may not.  I would never buy one directly from a designer I was not already familiar with from one of these 'legit' sources.  'Legit' sources adhere to pattern writing guidelines that are published on the Craft Guild of America Site, and you should not have to question their terms.  https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/how-to-read-crochet-pattern.  Plus, they are tech edited to (hopefully) catch errors, and they publish errata later if an error slips by.

The reason for this advice is, that while there are a lot of independent designers that publish their own clear, well written patterns for free on a blog, or for purchase, there are others who are looking to make a buck and can't write patterns well, at all.  The skill of making a cute crochet thing, and writing it down clearly and conventionally, are 2 different things.  If you get stuck on a poorly written free blog pattern, you can (probably) find a better pattern to use to re-purpose the yarn, and aren't out 'pattern money'.  I hate to see beginners throw their hooks in the air in in frustration trying to follow a poor pattern.