fluffy shrug pattern

[yarnlover66]

I'm attempting to make this shrug. http://www.crochetville.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6750&highlight=ruffled+shrug

 

I did all the calculations. I have to use 66 stitches and that makes the opening to my wrist HUGE. Is that the way it is supposed to be?? I've only done about 4 rows, but I wrapped it around my wrist and I'm just not sure it is supposed to be that big. Did I calculate wrong?

 

Thanks for your input!

[mrs who]

I might have to look at my calculations again. Is this correct? I'm supposed to take the measurement around the thickest part of the sleeve. That number was 16. I measured one of my sweaters. My actual arm measures 12"-13" around. Maybe I should do that instead of my sweater measurement.

 

Then crochet a swatch. I did 20 hdc across a swatch and then measure how many stitches were in ONE inch. I got 4 hdc in 1 inch. Take 4 times 16, I got 64. Add 2 for turning???? That is 66. That means I'll have 64 hdc around my wrist?? But it needs to be that wide to go around my arm. I'll reread and see if I come up with something different.

 

First, you're supposed to measure a sweater whose fit you want to duplicate in your shrug. Do you want a loose shrug? If your sweater has a 16" arm and yours is only 12", then you're measuring a very loose sweater so your shrug would be just as loose. So...

 

1. Use the measurement you actually want to get!

 

Now, people's upper arms differ greatly in circumference. If you have upper and lower arms which are roughly the same size, you'll be fine. If you have much larger upper arms than lower, then obviously that's going to effect the fit! The pattern is made to be a rectangle and it has no shaping, so you can't expect to get a shaped fit. It's just the way crochet works. If you want a shaped fit -- a slim fit at the upper arm and getting slimmer through the lower arm, you'll have to crochet it that way. You'll need to make an inverted hourglass instead.

 

Measure your lower arm in inches. Multiply that by your gauge and cast on thusly. Now measure the distance in inches from your lower arm to your upper arm. Now measure your upper arm. Calculate the difference between lower and upper (in stitches) and slowly increase over distance between upper and lower. Now, once you've increased to upper arm width, continue across your back measurement until reaching the other upper arm. Now, you'll decrease at the same rate you increased for the other one.

 

It's not tricky - you can do it! Make a small one to try it out first -- doll sized!

 

Also, what stitch are you doing? If it's going to be something rather big and loose/floppy, you'll need to make your shrug smaller because that sort of floppy crochet tends to bag dreadfully.

 

It's meant to be an unstructured item of clothing, so it's not going to feel or look fitted. Perhaps if you want something more fitted you can adapt (as I wrote above) or find a pattern which would suit better.

 

best,

[yarnlover66]

LOL LOL....Thanks Mrs Who....I am also using baby sport weight yarn by TLC. I chose lime green. It is pretty so far. I'm anxious to get to the ruffle...think I said that before. I'll post pics when I get it done.

 

:hook I'm going to work like crazy on it tonight! I want to see the finished masterpiece!

[mrs who]

Forgive me if I sound like a twit! LOL Mine just wasn't looking like the picture and I panicked a little.

 

You're not a twit!!!!! It's not going to look like the picture because you're using a different stitch, different yarn and doing it in a different size, LOL. I wrote the schematics (instead of a pattern) so that people could do it however they like. Mine was done in baby weight yarn with a sweater stitch because I wanted a knit-look to it. A bulkier yarn done in a bulkier stitch will have a very different look. (Which is OK, of course, you should go for the look you want!)

 

Just understand why. The fabric itself is determined by the yarn thickness, the stitch, the size of the hook used, and the content of the yarn. The fit and size are determined by your size (large, medium, small, etc.) and your chosen fit (loose, snug, etc). So, it's you who determine the look and fit by putting all the pieces together.

 

I hope that makes sense.

[crochetfun]

Crochetfun--Is that the same pattern as the one I'm making? Is that the same ruffle pattern, just not as long?

 

It is gorgeous.

 

Thank you so much. It is very similar, not exactly the same.

[yarnlover66]

Crochetfun--Is that the same pattern as the one I'm making? Is that the same ruffle pattern, just not as long?

 

It is gorgeous.

[crochetfun]

I certainly had enough doubts when I was making my first one.

 

I bet most others did, too.

I am sure it will work out just fine. Keep trying it on when you get to that stage.

Be sure to post pictures at the end.

[yarnlover66]

THANK YOU EVERYONE! For all of your help, in put, advice and pictures!!

 

I have decided to just go with it. Put my fears aside and just do it! I remeasured MY arm and not the sweater this time. It is 12", but am making it 14" for added room around my upper arm. Therefore the wrist won't be nearly as large, but still baggy. I've been told that is the way that it is supposed to be.

 

Forgive me if I sound like a twit! LOL Mine just wasn't looking like the picture and I panicked a little. I am going to put those feelings behind me and just run with it. It will be gorgeous! Right?

 

My stitch that I'm doing for the "tube" is all hdc and have about 12" done on that so far. I like the more closed look for that part and I want to do the same ruffle that is on Mrs Who's! I love that.

 

:ty

[TepperWear]

Oh that is beautiful! Is it your own pattern? Donna:hook

 

Thank you. I basically did what's written in the fluffy shrug schematics, but used the stitch in the draped bed jacket pattern here. I crocheted wrist to wrist. Oops forgot to add link. http://www.softmemories.com/AntiqueCrochet/free/

[nutz4crochet]

Here are pictures of mine http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=5248742&uid=2633172 Scroll down to the last two photos.

 

Oh that is beautiful! Is it your own pattern? Donna:hook

[mrs who]

Here are pictures of mine http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=5248742&uid=2633172 Scroll down to the last two photos.

 

Gorgeous!!

[TepperWear]

Here are pictures of mine http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=5248742&uid=2633172 Scroll down to the last two photos.

[TepperWear]

I might try crocheting in the round. I'm not experienced at doing making things on my own without a pattern to tell me step by step, but I'll give it a shot when I get home. Crocheting in the round means not connecting at the end of each round..it means going and going and going right? LOL

 

Do you have pics to share of yours tepperwear? Maybe I need a visual to get me going.

 

Crocheting in the round doesn't necessarily mean not joining. Crocheting in the round means not working in rows, like working on a blanket. You can crochet in the round and either join at the end of rounds or not. If you join at the end of rounds, it might be noticeable, depending on the stitch and how good you are joining, not joining will mean that your working in a little bit of spiral. I do have pictures, but I'm pretty sure that will not help you. I think the drawings on the post for the fluffy shrug schematics are much more helpful.

[crochetfun]

Here is one of mine.http://www.crochetville.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7959

 

This one was done elbow to elbow. (straight)

I don't know if it helps.

[yarnlover66]

I might try crocheting in the round. I'm not experienced at doing making things on my own without a pattern to tell me step by step, but I'll give it a shot when I get home. Crocheting in the round means not connecting at the end of each round..it means going and going and going right? LOL

 

Do you have pics to share of yours tepperwear? Maybe I need a visual to get me going.

[TepperWear]

I'm attempting to make this shrug. http://www.crochetville.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6750&highlight=ruffled+shrug

 

I did all the calculations. I have to use 66 stitches and that makes the opening to my wrist HUGE. Is that the way it is supposed to be?? I've only done about 4 rows, but I wrapped it around my wrist and I'm just not sure it is supposed to be that big. Did I calculate wrong?

 

Thanks for your input!

 

I've made several of these, and I didn't bother measuring because I did mine in the round, starting with the wrist and then once I got to the back I worked my rows back and forth to allow for the opening, and then once the back was done I continued working in the round. I think this way works better because you can taper the arm as you go, getting larger as your work toward the back and then getting smaller as you do the second arm. There is also no seam to sew when done. That being said, I assume you are crocheting rows and then you will fold it in half horizontally, and then sew up the seams on the sleeves. Right? Therefore, until you have done several more rows, I don't think you could tell that the wrist is way too big. My guess is that you will have to do at least 10 or so rounds for that to fit around your wrist. I think maybe you're putting the wrong side around your wrist. The 66 stitches go from one wrist to the other, not around your wrist. I hope that helps, and I hope I know what I'm talking about.

[yarnlover66]

I think I'm going to try to shorten that and see if that would still be comfortable around the thickest part of my arm I don't want it to be too tight there either. Hmmm, I'll let you know. I'll work on it after supper tonight and see what happens. I just think it is so awesome. I want to make it so bad. I got some really cool yarn too.

[CrochetCrazie]

When I make a shrug I don't bother measuring. I make a chain a little bit longer than than the circumference of my wrist/forearm (however long I want the sleeve to be minus finishing). I then do a couple of rows and recheck and make any necessary adjustments, then i increase every 3 to 4 rows until i reach the top of the sleeve. I don't do very well with measurements-I find that no matter how many test swatches I do, my gauge suddenly changes when i start the garment-so i just check as i go up the arm, then make sure i decrease in the opposite direction across the other arm. I only make sure it is wide enough across the back (18-19" for me) and the sleeves are even in length. So if i wanted a bell sleeve that hits my wrist I'd start at the middle of my forearm, making sure it will fit a little loosly, and make the bells at finishing. Most probably wouldnt want to do it this way but it may be a good way for you to start to get the right width. Hope this helps.

 

Angie

[fran]

I have made the polish sweater, which is really a shrug and I've made a child's shrug but I'm not sure where the problem is with the one you're working on. Mine is most like the Fluffy Pink Shrug shown in the pattern schematics. Are you working it horizontally? How long will it be at the center of the back? That will also be the diameter of the wrist. I'm probably confusing you.

[yarnlover66]

Have you made one Fran? If so, can I a pic of yours. The pic with the pattern doesn't look too big around the wrist.

 

I might have to look at my calculations again. Is this correct? I'm supposed to take the measurement around the thickest part of the sleeve. That number was 16. I measured one of my sweaters. My actual arm measures 12"-13" around. Maybe I should do that instead of my sweater measurement.

 

Then crochet a swatch. I did 20 hdc across a swatch and then measure how many stitches were in ONE inch. I got 4 hdc in 1 inch. Take 4 times 16, I got 64. Add 2 for turning???? That is 66. That means I'll have 64 hdc around my wrist?? But it needs to be that wide to go around my arm. I'll reread and see if I come up with something different.

[yarnlover66]

Yes I know, but when I just fold my 3 rows I have completed in half, that would be the wrist opening I'm at right now. You crochet across wrist to wrist, right? It is HUGE!

[fran]

The wrist to wrist measurement is across the back. The wrist openings are finished last, after the rectangle is sewn together from the ends