Yet another newb with a broken baby blanket

[rukawauke]

I know, I know, you've had it up to here with these amateurs and their baby blankets.

"Pregnant, are you? Time to take up crochet, don't you think?"

"Why, yes, yes, I declare that's an excellent idea. I have no idea what I'm doing but I think I'll make a baby blanket, yes, yes, why not?"

"Don't forget to bother the kind and patient people at crochetville with all your silly questions!"

"I absolutely will!"

 

So yes, anyway. On to the point!

 

I'm making a rainbow ripple baby blanket and have become entangled in newbish confusion.

 

One row calls for a pattern like this:

6DC - 2 chain - 6DC - 2 chain - 6DC etc.

 

The next row calls for:

2DC - skip 2 st - 2DC - 2 chain - 2DC - skip 2 st - 2DC - 2 chain etc.

 

Now my impressive mathematical skills indicate to me that there are 6 DC accounted for in each of the rows, and therefore it should all line up.

My practical experience, however, indicates that there are only 5 actual "holes" in which to work the second row and thus I get in a mess

 

Here's a very impressive textual map of my problem:

 

chain-gap (DC knot) hole (DC knot) hole (DC knot) hole (DC knot) hole (DC knot) hole (DC knot) chain-gap

 

Et volia: 6 DCs but only 5 holes in which to stab my tiny hook of fury.

 

Conclusion: I'm probably doing something totally wrong. Help a newb?

[greyhoundgrandma]

There are a number of rainbow ripple patterns. Can you post a link to the one you're using?

[redrosesdz]

Welcome to Crochetville!

 

First of all, CONGRATULATIONS!!  Next, we absolutely love helping everyone that we can, especially those that are learning to crochet. 

 

Instead of looking at holes, look at the top of a stitch.  It looks like > .  Each top has a front loop (the one closest to you) and a back loop (the one on the other side from you.)  Your hook goes under both strands of yarn. 

 

Now let's look at the first row ...

6 DC stitches = 6 stitch tops >>>>>>

Chain 2 = a space, sometimes it'll be called ch-2 space (ch-# space, where # is the number of chains)

 

Next row (I'm guessing here, since I can't see the entire row's instructions.)

DC in the tops of the first 2 DC stitches

Skip the middle 2 DC stitches

DC in the tops of the last 2 DC stitches

Chain 2 over the previous row's chain 2

 

This is a decrease.  Your first row is 6 DC stitches, chain 2.  The next row is 4 DC stitches, chain 2.

 

By the way, this is not a typical ripple pattern.  What's the name of the pattern?  Do you have a link to the pattern?  If not, what's the name and date of the magazine, book, etc. and the designer's name? 

 

A typical ripple consists of a valley, up hill, peak and down hill.  The valley is where you decrease (3 DC together or 2 DC together with skipping the middle DC).  Each hill is a number of DC stitches.  Both hills have the same number.  The peak is where you increase (3 DC in the same stitch or DC,ch 1, DC in the same stitch.)

 

@ Mona - I was just about to hit Post!

[magiccrochetfan]

Hi, welcome to the ville  Your intro is hilarious! 

 

We really do need to have the identifying info on the pattern.  After that, it may be very helpful if you can post a clear closeup photo of what you've made so far.  

 

It sounds like you might need some guidance on the parts of stitches and where to insert your hook so have a look at these tutorials  http://www.stitchdiva.com/tutorials/crochet/crochet-in-between-posts-of-stitches    Unless the pattern states to work between stitches, you want to work into the top of the stitch

[rukawauke]

Thanks for the welcomes and helpful hints!

 

The pattern I'm using is Celeste's Rainbow Ripple on raverly: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/rainbow-ripple-baby-blanket

 

My problem is on Round 6.

 

Although I can find the 6 DC from the previous row (row 5) (formed by half of each large shell plus the two DC in between) I can only find 5 pairs of top loops between the 6 knots (or posts) of the DCs themselves.

 

It's my understanding that on a flat project, the final DC in the row would actually go through the top stitch of the turning chain to maintain an even number of DC stitches in the row.

However for this pattern, putting the last DC through one of the chains that form the chain gap in this case results in wonky star points :/

[redrosesdz]

I'm so glad you provided the link!  What I said was wrong, because I think your understanding of the previous rounds isn't correct.  Rip back to the end of round 2, where you have 24 DC stitches around.  Note: there should be 23 actual DC stitches + the first chain for height.

 

Before I explain the next couple of rounds, you need some additional information...

 

First, when you begin a round or a row, you do a chain.  The purpose of the chain is to get you to the height of a stitch.  For an SC, you chain 1.  The chain 1 never counts as a stitch.  For a DC, you chain 2 or 3.  Chain 2, if you chain loosely or chain 3, if your chains are tighter.  This chain counts as a DC stitch.  So, when you count your stitches, include the chain.  Only this initial chain counts as a stitch.  If the pattern has other chains, they aren't a DC stitch.  For flat projects (rows), this chain is called the turning chain, because you both turn and chain to get the height.  For round projects it doesn't have an official name, but it's often called the initial chain or first chain.

 

Next, when you're doing a flat project (rows), the last DC will often go into the top of the turning chain to end a row.  However, some patterns have different instructions.  For round projects with DC stitches, the most common instruction is to slip stitch into the top of the initial chain to end the round.  For the next round, it may tell you to slip stitch into the next stitch(es) to get to the right starting point.  Then it'll say to do the initial chain for the first stitch's height.

 

Lastly, for flat projects, you want the same number of stitches in each row.  For round projects, you need to increase the number of stitches in each round when you want it to lay flat.  This is because as the diameter of the round grows, it needs more stitches around.  If you don't increase the number of stitches, it'll curl, like a hat or bowl.

 

Also, I'm going to repeat what I said about ripples, because it's important.  A typical ripple consists of a valley, up hill, peak and down hill.  The valley is where you decrease (3 DC together or 2 DC together with skipping the middle DC).  Each hill is a number of DC stitches.  Both hills have the same number.  The peak is where you increase (3 DC in the same stitch or DC,ch 1, DC in the same stitch.)  The valleys need to line up with the valleys on the previous rows/rounds.  The peaks need to line up with the peaks on the previous rows/rounds.  If they don't line up, then you did something wrong.  Rip back to where they line up.  It helps to put a stitch marker in the middle of each peak or in the middle of each valley.  Move the markers up as you complete the next row's/round's peak (or valley.)

 

Time to explain the first few rounds.  I'm going to detail rounds 3-6. Whenever it says to do one or more stitches in a stitch, it means to insert your hook under the top (both strands of yarn) of a stitch in the previous round.  Whenever it says to do one or more stitches in a space, it means to insert your hook in the space under the chains in the previous round.  A chain space may be called "ch# space", where # is the number of chains made.  Your pattern says ch 2 space, because 2 chains made a space in the previous round.

 

Round 3: Ch 2, *skip next dc, work (dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc. Repeat from * around, ending with dc in base of beginning stitch, ch 2, join with sl st in top of ch2 from beginning.

1. Ch 2.  This is your first DC stitch.  You can substitute a chain 3, if your chains are tight.  It should be the same height as a DC stitch.
2. Skip next dc.  This is a decrease and will be the valley of the ripple.
3. Work (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next dc.  This is a small shell done in the top of the next DC stitch.  All of the stitches are done in the same stitch.  It is your increase and will be the peak of the ripple.
4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 around.
5. DC in the same stitch as your initial chain.  Chain 2.  Join with a slip stitch to the top of the initial chain.  This completes the last small shell.

Count your small shells (or chain 2 spaces.)  There should be 12 of them.

 

Round 4: Sl st into ch 2 space, work (ch 2, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 space, * work large shell in next ch 2 space, repeat from * around. Join.

1. Sl st into ch 2 space.  On the previous round your did a chain 2 right before joining with a slip stitch.  Insert your hook in the space under the 2 chains to do your slip stitch.  The purpose is to get to the correct starting point.
2. Work (ch 2, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the ch 2 space.  Since you slip stitched into the ch 2 space, then you're already set up to make these stitches all in the same space.  The ch 2 is your first DC.  Just like before, you can substitute a chain 3, if your chains are tight.  Get to the height of a DC stitch.  The rest of the sequence completes a large shell.
3. Skip the last DC in the small shell and the first DC in the next small shell.  This is your decrease; your valley.
4. Work large shell in the next ch 2 space.  Do a (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) sequence all in the ch 2 space.  This is your increase; your peak.
5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 around.
6. Skip the last DC in the small shell and the first DC in the next small shell.  This is your decrease; your valley
7. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the initial chain.

Count your large shells (or chain 2 spaces).  There should be 12 of them.

 

Round 5: Sl st into next st, ch 2,  * work large shell in ch 2 space, dc in next dc, skip next 2 dc, dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Join.

1. Sl st into next st.  Slip stitch into the 2nd DC of the (2 dc, ch 2, dc, initial chain) combination.  This is the dc right before the chain 2 space.  The purpose is to get you to the right starting point.
2. Ch 2.  This is your initial chain.  It counts as your first dc in the round.  Just like before, you can substitute a chain 3 as long as you get to the height of a dc stitch.  This is your first up hill.
3. Work large shell in the next ch 2 space.  Do a (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) sequence all in the ch 2 space.  This is your increase; your peak.
4. DC in next dc.  DC in the 3rd DC of the (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) combination.  This is the dc right after the chain 2 space.  This is your down hill.
5. Skip next 2 dc.  Skip the last dc in the large shell and the first dc in the next large shell.  This is your decrease; your valley.
6. DC in next st.  DC in the 2nd DC of the (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) combination. This is the DC right before the chain 2 space.  This is your up hill.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 around.
8. Skip next 2 dc.  Skip the last dc in the large shell and the first dc in the next large shell.  This is your decrease; your valley.
9. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the initial chain.

Count your large shells (or chain 2 spaces).  There should be 12 of them.

 

Round 6: Sl st into next st, ch 2, dc in next st, * work large shell in ch 2 space, dc in each of next 2 dc, skip the next 2 sts, dc in each of next 2 dc. Repeat from * around, ending with skip 2 sts. Join, cut yarn.

1. Sl st into next st.  Slip stitch into the next dc.  This puts you 2 dc stitches right before the chain 2 space.  The purpose is to get you to the right starting point.
2. Ch 2.  This is your initial chain.  It counts as your first dc in the round.  Just like before, you can substitute a chain 3 as long as you get to the height of a dc stitch.  This is first stitch in your first up hill.
3. Dc in next st.  DC in the next dc stitch.  This is the dc stitch right before the chain 2 space.  Along with the initial chain, you'll now have 2 dc stitches before the chain 2 space.  This is your up hill.
4. Work large shell in the next ch 2 space.  Do a (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) sequence all in the ch 2 space.  This is your increase; your peak.
5. DC in each of next 2 dc.  DC in the dc right after the chain 2 space, then dc in the next dc.  This is your down hill.
6. Skip next 2 dc.  Skip the last dc in the hill and the first dc in the next hill.  This is your decrease; your valley.
7. DC in each of next 2 dc.  DC in the next dc, then dc in the next dc. The 2nd dc should be in the dc right before the chain 2 space.  This is your up hill.
8. Repeat steps 4-7 around.
9. Ending with skip 2 sts.  Skip next 2 dc.  Skip the last dc in the hill and the first dc in the next hill.  This is your decrease; your valley.
10. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the initial chain.

Count your large shells (or chain 2 spaces).  There should be 12 of them.

 

From round 5 thought the end of the project ...

 

What you're doing is starting with an up hill.  The slip stitch is to get you to the right place for the first DC in the up hill.  The initial chain is your first DC in the up hill.  Then you DC up to and including, the DC stitch right before the chain 2 space.

 

This is where you start your repeats...

Peak - large shell in the chain 2 space.

Down hill - dc's starting with the dc right after the chain 2 space and ending with the dc before the last one going down.

Valley - skip last dc of the down hill and the first dc of the up hill.

Up hill - dc's starting with the 2nd dc and ending with the dc right before the chain 2 space.

 

Since you started with an up hill, you'll always end with the valley, then join with a slip stitch to the initial chain.

 

I hope this helps!  Please let us know if it does or if you're still confused.  Ripples are one of those things that's complicated, until you understand what's happening, then simple after that.  The two most important things about are ripples are making sure that your peaks and valleys line up and counting your hills so they have the same number of stitches.

[rukawauke]

Wow, thanks for the comprehensive explanation Redro. Would it be possible to link to this thread on the patterns comments on the raverly page? I'm sure dozens of hopeless and confused people would benefit from your explanation!

 

As for my particular problem, the solution was actually kinda simple.

The mysterious missing loop was the first one. It's hard to see because the two doubles forming the shell in the chain gap tend to cover it up, and also because it is coming off a chain itself so it looks rather small and stringy like it's part of the chain, rather than being bulky and noticeable like a continuous line of doubles would.

Thus, if anyone has a similar problem with the DCs not seeming to line up with the pattern on rows 5 and 6 : look for the small, miserable, pathetic, "secret" loop under the shell doubles you've just made. That's the missing place to stick your first DC

[magiccrochetfan]

When you make a project page on Ravelry for your blanket, you can put whatever you want in the notes (respecting copyright of course---it wouldn't be right to copy a big chunk of the pattern into your notes)  

[Granny Square]

You are not the only newbie who has issues with the first and last stitch of the round.  I'm glad you found the secret of hidden chain-top; if it continues to be hard to spot, it might not be a bad idea to put a stitch marker into that topmost chain of the beginning of the round (and move it up each round).  My favorite stitch markers are bobbie pins (Kirby grips if you are in the UK), they're inexpensive and stay put, unlike the expensive markers you buy and cry when they fall off and you lose your spot, or the marker, or both.

 

Another tip for recognizing sneaky stitches when working in the round: when you slst the last stitch to the top of the first stitch of the round and chain up, and come around to that stitch at the end of the round--the slst spot looks like a stitch from the prior round, but it isn't.  See the spot pointed out in red below, that's the 'not a stitch' and will throw off your stitch count if you treat it as one.  If skipping it makes a gap that bothers you, you could make a dc2tog over the real last stitch and this phony one, or use that phony stitch as an increase spot on purpose.