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Granny Square Stripe Afghan


Michellaneous

Question

Ok crochet friends, I am a relatively beginner crochet, but I have done a large granny square blanket.

 

Why is this happening!! It almost looks like I have too many stitches on the rows after the chain and row 1. It's granny stripes. So I chained 200, then went back and single crocheted into the chain skipping the first two chains. Then chained three and then started to do the double crochet clusters in every third chain; picking up both the front and back of the chain. ???? I'm even using a bigger gage hook then what the yarn calls for. Will it lay flat as I keep going and this is happening just because it's long? Or do I need to start over because I was too tight?

 

Thanks so much for the help and advice!post-79836-0-05209400-1494287664_thumb.jpgpost-79836-0-16514100-1494287674_thumb.jpg

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6 answers to this question

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Welcome to Crochetville!

 

Rippling occurs when you have too many stitches.  The ONLY way to fix it is to rip it out.

 

Crocheting in rows is different than crocheting in the round (round, square, rectangle, etc.)  When you crochet in rounds, you start with a small diameter (square, rectangle) and then you make it bigger as it grows.  In order to cover the circumference, you have to increase the number of stitches in each round.  For example, with the granny stitch, you increase the number of 3 dc clusters on each side.

 

When you crochet in rows, each row must have the same number of stitches.  Both dc and chains count as stitches.  So, 3 dc, ch 1 is 4 stitches.  That means that you have to skip 4 stitches.  If you do 3 dc and no chain, then you skip 3 stitches.  If you start with 200 stitches, then EVERY row must be 200 stitches.

 

Here's a tutorial ...

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So on the circle, the chain edge is on the inside?  And on the straightened version, the chain is on the right?  

 

I think it's a common issue, but you're going to have to rip and start over.  Most of us (me too) make our chains a little tight.  To fix this, make the chain with a hook or 2 larger than the rest of your project, then switch to the right hook after the chain.

 

There are 3 ways to work into the chain.

- with the chain facing you, use the top loop only.  This doesn't pull the chain tight, or at least by much.  (This is how I learned eons ago).

- with the chain facing you, use the top loop and the loop in the back (leaving the bottom loop free).  This is similarly not too tight

- with the chain facing away and the back bump facing you, using the back bump.  This leaves a nicer looking edge, but is the one that is guaranteed to pull tight and usually needs a bigger hook.

 

Having said all that, I assume you are you following a pattern and not making something up?  I'm not seeing that you are adding stitches as you go (which would have the same effect of curling/ruffling).  Part of the reason I asked is that it's odd to throw a SC in at the beginning like you did (also, SC is usually made in the second, not third chain from the hook, unless you are meaning to make a space before the stitch.

 

Hi Redrosesdz, I am typing slow again.  Thanks for attaching a pattern, I'm sure it will answer the questions I was starting to ask.  

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Do the chain in the larger hook. Do the sc row with the normal hook.

 

GS gave you great information about foundation chains. I'm just going to add that no matter how you crochet into the chain, you're going to pull the yarn. That's why the foundation chain has to be super loose. A trick to make a loose chain is to pinch it as you make it.

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Another tip is when you're learning something new, like how to switch from granny square to granny rows, practice with something small first. Try 21 stitches. Then when it looks right, do the larger project. It'll save a lot of frustration!

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