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mdkb904

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I usually make afghans out of acrylic for easy care. Here is what I do to block it for presenting...

- Wash in the washer
- Make layers on the floor
* Towels
* Afghan
* Towels
* Cardboard or books
* Weights
- Let dry at least 4-5 days

The blocking only lasts until the next washing. However, after the next wash, I use the dryer. Since the initial blocking, any curling has relaxed enough to not show.

Others do it differently.

 

ETA: Sometimes I iron the top layer of towels before putting down the cardboard.  You can't iron acrylic directly, because it will melt.  But, with a towel over it, you can lightly iron.  Just don't leave the iron in one spot.

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I agree with Granny Square.  If you decrease, the afghan will have an oval shape.  The only way to make it look right is to go back to where your stitch count was correct.

 

Here's a guide that might help ...

 

SC: chain 1 for the turning chain, turning chain doesn't count as a stitch, the first stitch is in the first > and the last stitch is in the last >, ignore the previous row's turning chain.

 

HDC: chain 1 or 2 for the turning chain, sometimes the turning chain counts as a stitch and sometimes it doesn't, the pattern will tell you which, follow the SC guideline when it doesn't count and the DC guideline when it does count.

 

DC: chain 2 or 3 for the turning chain, the turning chain counts as a stitch, the first stitch is in the second > and the last stitch is the top of the previous row's turning chain.

 

TR: chain 3 or 4 for the turning chain, follow the same guidelines as DC.

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I should have looked it up, it looks like Bernat Blanket yarn is super bulky polyester (not acrylic) but still plastic so the above still applies.

 

I didn't mention blocking with heat, but I will in case you do some research and decide to try it - DON'T.  It is to much of a distance to stretch to shape, and you will have ruined the yarn and your chance of pulling it out and fixing it with the right number of stitches.

 

I can't tell what stitch you are using because of the 2 colors, is it a single stitch (like sc or dc) or a stitch combo?  I'm using US stitch terms.  Often beginners add or subtract stitches at the end because they aren't sure where the end stitch is, or in the case of DC, they forget to skip the first stitch after the chain-3 turning chain to start the row.  It might help to use stitch markers to mark the first and last stitch of the row.

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It looks like you might have been pulling at it to make it wider, sorry but his is NOT going to block out (I'm assuming Bernat blanket yarn is acrylic, which really doesn't block well anyway, and what little you achieve do goes away when you wash it).  Natural fibers block (and stay) better, but still blocking is not  intended to fix a 27 stitch distance.  A border is not going to fix this either, I'm afraid.  I hate to say this, but the only way to fix this is to rip it back to where you last had 88 stitches and start over.  

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It depends on how much it's curving. Did you add extra stitches to those rows? If it's only a little, a border might hide it. If it's really noticeable, a border might make it worse. Post a pic of what you're questioning. That would help to get a good answer.

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I don't know why not...some general rules that I like to go by:

-Pick a pattern that goes with the blanket's design; a plain stitch pattern goes with most things, but sometimes lacy can clash with geometric, for example.  

-For plain stitch borders, put 3 stitches into the corner for SC, and 5 for DC.  I like to use a chain for the middle corner stitch, because it reduces bulk and turns the corner more cleanly.

-For the sides, you may have to omit or add stitches every so often to keep it from rippling or puckering.  It depends on your gauge & stitch pattern, so there's no universal formula.

-I know you said same color, but if you wanted to put a different color (white border on red blanket), I'd suggest putting a plain row of red SC all the way around the blanket, and then proceeding with the border.  Reason: when you work into the sides, it's not as neat and tidy, but you don't notice this so much when you work into the sides using the same color.  This way, all of the white stitches will be worked into the tops of stitches, which looks nicer.

 

Hi Magic, here we go again.  That IS a great book; I bought the Kindle version, every so often it's reduced to $2.99.  You can get a 'Kindle for PC' (edit for clarity-, a download application for PCs from Amazon just to be clear), or Kindle app for other things, you don't need a Kindle device.

 

oops, didn't see you there Redroses.  Geez I must really type slow...

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I completely agree!  I have the Around the Corner Crochet Borders.  It's easy to use, really teaches you about borders and the counts for going around corners, and has a lot of great ideas for borders.  It's been invaluable to me.  I highly recommend it.

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Sure, a same-color border can look very good.  My suggestion is to look at the book Around the Corner Crochet Borders by E Eckman.  Your local public library (if you are in the US) should be able to get it for you, or just look up the book on Amazon and you can see a number of pages including info on setting up a border, stitch counts and how to do the corners, as well as a few of the border patterns. 

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