U.S. substitute for this yarn?

[Afghaniac]

Would anyone venture an educated guess about what could be substituted for the Drops Silke-Alpaca called for in this pattern? Worsted weight? Sports weight? Simply Soft, maybe?

 

I've never succeeded at crocheting a garment for myself to gauge, but this sweater looks fairly unstructured, so I thought maybe I could pull it off this time.

 

http://www.garnstudio.com/lang/us/pattern.php?id=3329〈=us#

 

Has anyone made this?

[Gingerbread Girl]

According to Ravelry, that yarn is aran weight/10 ply. Pity it's discontinued, it looks fabulous... aplaca and silk... sigh. Dreamy combination there! lol No specific yarns come to mind at the moment but hopefully having a yarn weight to go by will help. =)

[Afghaniac]

Thanks so much for your answer. I didn't see that while perusing ravelry. Would aran weight be about the same as worsted? I usually stick to workhorse worsted weight yarns (mostly afghans) and rarely venture into the rarefied atmosphere of luxury yarns. . . but once in a while I get the urge to make something fancy. And I've not been able to find a lacy sweater like this in the stores, at least one that suits me.

[MysterySister]

I think aran weight is roughly the same as worsted. I'm in the UK but I often use US patterns and I've found aran is the best substitute for patterns that call for worsted.

It's a beautiful pattern, good luck with it!

[mattenylou]

This is a great sweater, I love this! Perfect to just throw on, big sleeves to fit over a turtleneck, nice pattern!

 

I noticed their gauge is very vague (12 sc/dc = 4"), especially when you are thinking about trying a different type of yarn and making something that you want to have fit when you are thru. I'm not sure if you are a swatcher, I am, but then I make swatches just for fun to play around with the yarn and pattern before I'd ever start in on something like this, just to get to know the pattern.

 

Not to tell you what to do, because I know you are an experienced stitcher, but if I was making this, I'd probably make a swatch using that exact pattern from the right front piece, except make it half the width, or so, and follow the stitch pattern as written thru the 15th row and see if it actually measures that 9.5",, that will show you if you are close to the gauge of the sweater's real lacy pattern using your worsted yarn, not going by that vague *12sc/dc = 4" * that their pattern gauge suggests.

 

Hoping that you are close to the right gauge and end up at that 9.5 inches, you'll know if you need to change your hook size before you begin your sweater... And guess what?? You've already made a pocket in the meantime!!. You'll probably not want it to be that length, 9", so undo a few rows, or wait til the sweater is done, you may decide you want to fold it over at the top, make a false flap, add a button, whatever....

 

If nothing else, I've found that by making my "pockets" first, it gets me acquainted with the pattern and I'm familiar with the stitches so I can just concentrate on the number needed for my foundation row and getting started. Also, It's nice to know you've got that good chuck of yarn already set aside in case you start to get worried about running short. You can nix the pocket and add an extra inch or two to the sleeve cuffs if you need to.

 

Hmmm, I just rediscovered a bag of 8 skeins of blue heather Simply Soft in my stash..... hmmm, what kind of yarn did you say you were going to use? I may be making my own pocket this afternoon!

[MysterySister]

Making some pockets first! Excellent! That is an elegant solution. Ingenious

[magiccrochetfan]

I would recommend looking for a yarn that is a blend of animal fiber and plant fiber, like the original. Maybe wool and bamboo, if you can't find another alpaca-silk.

[magiccrochetfan]

Sorry for multiple posts.

 

I would use some kind of natural fiber because i like to be able to block garments. It generally helps the stitches lengthen and makes the fabric look smoother, eliminates any bunchiness of the stitches. i find it makes the garment look much more "handmade" and less "homemade" if you know what i mean. Acrylic just doesn't respond to blocking as well as natural fibers.

[Afghaniac]

I am a complete do-do when it comes to gauge, and your advice is excellent. The pocket swatch is an ingenious idea. Plus, I may look into that blue heather color if I don't spring for a fancy fiber. P.S. I'm scared of gauge and blocking!

 

And, yes, that does look like a useful sweater. I've been wearing quite a few peasant-style and batwing-sleeve tops, and need something light to throw on when I'm wearing big sleeves.

 

Please do post a pic if you make it. And thank you for all your help.

 

This is a great sweater, I love this! Perfect to just throw on, big sleeves to fit over a turtleneck, nice pattern!

 

I noticed their gauge is very vague (12 sc/dc = 4"), especially when you are thinking about trying a different type of yarn and making something that you want to have fit when you are thru. I'm not sure if you are a swatcher, I am, but then I make swatches just for fun to play around with the yarn and pattern before I'd ever start in on something like this, just to get to know the pattern.

 

Not to tell you what to do, because I know you are an experienced stitcher, but if I was making this, I'd probably make a swatch using that exact pattern from the right front piece, except make it half the width, or so, and follow the stitch pattern as written thru the 15th row and see if it actually measures that 9.5",, that will show you if you are close to the gauge of the sweater's real lacy pattern using your worsted yarn, not going by that vague *12sc/dc = 4" * that their pattern gauge suggests.

 

Hoping that you are close to the right gauge and end up at that 9.5 inches, you'll know if you need to change your hook size before you begin your sweater... And guess what?? You've already made a pocket in the meantime!!. You'll probably not want it to be that length, 9", so undo a few rows, or wait til the sweater is done, you may decide you want to fold it over at the top, make a false flap, add a button, whatever....

 

If nothing else, I've found that by making my "pockets" first, it gets me acquainted with the pattern and I'm familiar with the stitches so I can just concentrate on the number needed for my foundation row and getting started. Also, It's nice to know you've got that good chuck of yarn already set aside in case you start to get worried about running short. You can nix the pocket and add an extra inch or two to the sleeve cuffs if you need to.

 

Hmmm, I just rediscovered a bag of 8 skeins of blue heather Simply Soft in my stash..... hmmm, what kind of yarn did you say you were going to use? I may be making my own pocket this afternoon!

[Afghaniac]

You're so right about acrylics looking more homemade. And if I fail with a pricey yarn, I can always return the unused skeins. However, blocking along with gauge are my enemies, so I dunno . . . .

Sorry for multiple posts.

I would use some kind of natural fiber because i like to be able to block garments. It generally helps the stitches lengthen and makes the fabric look smoother, eliminates any bunchiness of the stitches. i find it makes the garment look much more "handmade" and less "homemade" if you know what i mean. Acrylic just doesn't respond to blocking as well as natural fibers.

[Afghaniac]

Thanks, I thought that was the case, but wasn't sure. If only US and UK could standardize. Oops, or is it standardise?

 

I think aran weight is roughly the same as worsted. I'm in the UK but I often use US patterns and I've found aran is the best substitute for patterns that call for worsted.

It's a beautiful pattern, good luck with it!

[magiccrochetfan]

You're so right about acrylics looking more homemade. And if I fail with a pricey yarn, I can always return the unused skeins. However, blocking along with gauge are my enemies, so I dunno . . . .

For blocking garments, all i have ever done is soak, squeeze out excess water, lay flat to dry, patting gently into shape. The hardest part is finding an undisturbed spot big enough to lay it out ;-)

[Granny Square]

*Snicker* I had to laugh when you said standardize/standardise.  I'm in the US, work for a company based in the UK, and I now how no clue how to spell the "ize" words US-wise.  (US-wize? er, no I guess not )

 

Meanwhile, if you hadn't already gotten your answer this is a handy reference:

http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/weight.html

 

Your gauge (which isn't vague really, since sc and dc should be the same width and the pieces' height is worked in inches not rows) is 12 stitches with a H hook = 4" wide.  Looking at the CYC chart, it's falling between DK and Worsted weight.

[Afghaniac]

*Snicker* I had to laugh when you said standardize/standardise.  I'm in the US, work for a company based in the UK, and I now how no clue how to spell the "ize" words US-wise.  (US-wize? er, no I guess not )

 

Meanwhile, if you hadn't already gotten your answer this is a handy reference:

http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/weight.html

 

Your gauge (which isn't vague really, since sc and dc should be the same width and the pieces' height is worked in inches not rows) is 12 stitches with a H hook = 4" wide.  Looking at the CYC chart, it's falling between DK and Worsted weight.

Thanks for the chart. Will definitely save it for reference.

 

Yep, my DH is a retired Reuters correspondent, so he had to relearn spelling, too. Thank goodness for editors (well, I was one, so I'm biased there).