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Problems with Doris Chan's gauges


Minty-Goodness

Question

I've come across a few of Doris Chan's patterns but I seem to struggle with the gauges. My tension is tight although it's improved since I changed my crochet hooks but no matter how loose I make the stitches, I cannot get her gauges right. How does a person fit 10 sc and 4 rows into 4 inches with a 6mm hook?! I'd have to use an 8mm hook or even larger to get her gauges and even then I'd have to make the stitches so loose that crocheting the garment wouldn't even feel comfortable for me not to mention that it would look like crap.

 

Has anyone else had these problems with her patterns before?

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Heh. Me. I tried to make one of her top-down items once and it simply didn't work. The width gauge was OK, but not the height-- and in a top down raglan, stitch height determines the armhole depth. The armholes would have worked for a toddler (but the sweater was supposed to be for me...)

 

She has written a blog article about her tension, height-wise anyway

https://dorischancrochet.com/2009/01/05/confessions-of-a-lifter/

 

One of these days I might try that pattern again and try a triple or extended stitch and see if I can hit her gauge; you might have to try something similar, and maybe a heavier yarn if you're also having trouble with the width gauge.

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What pattern are you looking at that calls for 10 sc and 4 rows in 4 in?  that sounds huge with any size hook, to me.

 

Here are some ideas for controlling gauge, mostly the stitch height.  https://dorischancrochet.com/2009/01/05/confessions-of-a-lifter/

http://crochetpatterncompanion.blogspot.com/2011/03/how-to-take-control-of-double-crochet.html

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interestingly, the magazine put up the pattern for free http://www.crochetmagazine.com/crochet_project.php?id=14

so we can all look at it.  the gauge I think is intended to give the width for sc, but the height for the pattern stitch rows.  which is confusing to say the least but is the only thing that makes sense to me.  

 

Doris created an improved version of it http://www.shop.designingvashti.com/DJC-Cats-Cradle-v2-34-DCAT93012.htm

different yarn wt and hook size, and only the stitch gauge is listed there.  here is the ravelry entry http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/djc-cats-cradlev2   

 

What yarn are you using?

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I'm using a brand called Factor Mill Ends. I bought a 1 lb bag of it today. It's a worsted weight yarn that looks a bit similar to the Bernat Super Value.

 

When I was tinkering around with the gauge, I used a 6.5mm hook and the neckline would've been a bit snug around the neck.

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I think the texture of the yarn could be working against you.  The original pattern used a yarn that was a blend of rayon, nylon, silk so it would tend to be very slinky.  Most acrylics are not very slinky at all.  I think the slinkier yarn would more easily make a taller stitch, while the acrylic would tend to be more bunchy.  

 

I don't know if you've swatched anything beyond the sc part so far, and if so how that looked to you.  what I'd suggest at this point is to get as close as you can to the sc gauge as far as stitches per inch, using a bigger hook as needed, to make the neck part.  don't worry about the row gauge for the sc.  then start on the openwork part of the pattern and see how it looks, and if that is close to the stated row gauge.   Even if you don't immediately like the result, set it aside for a day and then look at it again.  I often have a hard time forcing myself to make loose, lanky stitches, but they really can look great.  

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Hi Magic!

 

 

As a general thought...are you a new crocheter? When I was, many moons ago, I started out by making my stitches really close to the throat of the hook, and they were really tight. After a while I realized I should be forming my stitches on the shaft part of the hook, not the tip, to get them the right size. It took a bit of practice, but it helped a lot. I'm not sure if this is an issue but I'm just throwing it out there.

 

 

This is a pretty pattern, and a plus is that it's not a really accurate fit. A couple of things that I've done in the past when I have gauge issues is to do the stitch math and make another size - example if I'm a medium by the pattern measurement definition, I'll make a small or large and hit close to my real measurement. By doing the stitch math, I mean if you don't hit gauge exactly, figure out the width per stitch of YOUR gauge and multiply it by the number of stitches across the piece (usually at the bust), and decide if it will work. Often pattern sizes are 4" apart, so being a tad off might be OK.

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Someone had suggested to me to try to use two strands of the same yarn and see how the gauge turns out although Doris has a second version of this pattern available to buy and I just might give it a try.

 

I've been crocheting since February so I'm still new. As for which part of the hook I use, I always slide the yarn down onto the shaft. Even when I first started, that's what I did because if I didn't, the yarn would fall off the hook. My tension used to be really tight where I would sometimes struggle to insert the hook into the stitch but since I started using different hooks, it's improved greatly. Now for most patterns, I can get the gauge with the recommended hook. :D

 

That's interesting about going up or down a size and trying to adjust the pattern to your gauge. What I don't get with this pattern though is that unlike other patterns where the starting foundation row/chain increases with each size, this one stays the same for all sizes. :/

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