Checking tension

[Mygosh]

Hello there!

 

I recently purchased a pattern for a pullover and I'm struggling to check the tension.

 

It reads:

 

"1 pattern repeat measures 10cm over 16 sts and 6 cm over 8 rows with 4mm hook or size required to give correct tension. 15 doubles and 9 1/2 rows to 10cm over double pattern on 4mm hook or size req."

 

Do I make a swatch made of 10 rows of 15 doubles?

 

Thank you

[magiccrochetfan]

No, you need to make it bigger so you can measure in the middle of the swatch.  I try to make the swatch at least 50% bigger.  so for this i would do 22-23 stitches and 15-16 rows.

 

Then, it is best to launder the swatch as the finished item will be laundered, to make sure you know if/how it changes with laundering.  

[Mygosh]

No, you need to make it bigger so you can measure in the middle of the swatch.  I try to make the swatch at least 50% bigger.  so for this i would do 22-23 stitches and 15-16 rows.

 

Then, it is best to launder the swatch as the finished item will be laundered, to make sure you know if/how it changes with laundering.

 

Thank you... Great advice. I want to get this just perfect so will do as you suggested.

 

Many thanks

[magiccrochetfan]

you're welcome!  what are you making?  

[Mygosh]

you're welcome!  what are you making?

 

Well I'm gonna attempt to make this top....

 

 

I've never made anything to exact measurements before...only hats/ mitts/ etc.

So this should be a nice challenge

[magiccrochetfan]

Cute top!  I like that stitch pattern.  Happy crocheting!  

[Granny Square]

Pretty top!

 

What I like to do, if I don't quite hit the pattern gauge, is do a bit of math.  When you are off a 'little bit' over 4mm, you are off a lot over your body measurement.  I calculate the width of 1 stitch, then multiply that over the number of stitches at the bust.

 

Patterns are often written with 4" difference between sizes, so there's a bit of 'fit tolerance' that you may be able to live with.  Sometimes, (say I'm size B) I might follow size A or C pattern directions but end up with a perfect size B because my gauge is off.  Doing the math, you should know just where you will end up and whether you can live with it being a little tighter or looser.

 

Usually I worry more about the stitch width, not height, because you can usually add or omit rows to compensate.  On this particular pattern, it might be tricky because the stitch repeat is so wide.  If your height gauge is off, pay attention to the armhole opening to make sure it's not to big or small.

[Mygosh]

Pretty top!

 

What I like to do, if I don't quite hit the pattern gauge, is do a bit of math.  When you are off a 'little bit' over 4mm, you are off a lot over your body measurement.  I calculate the width of 1 stitch, then multiply that over the number of stitches at the bust.

 

Patterns are often written with 4" difference between sizes, so there's a bit of 'fit tolerance' that you may be able to live with.  Sometimes, (say I'm size B) I might follow size A or C pattern directions but end up with a perfect size B because my gauge is off.  Doing the math, you should know just where you will end up and whether you can live with it being a little tighter or looser.

 

Usually I worry more about the stitch width, not height, because you can usually add or omit rows to compensate.  On this particular pattern, it might be tricky because the stitch repeat is so wide.  If your height gauge is off, pay attention to the armhole opening to make sure it's not to big or small.

Brilliant advice, much appreciated