Jump to content

Favourite crochet hints & tips


Recommended Posts

Take Ibuprofen before you begin because your arms and hands are gonna ache before you're through! :lolwith tongue firmly in cheek...

 

No, I actually do recommend gauge swatches even for doilies, because I have been badly burnt by not doing it. A doily will ruffle beyond blocking out if it is done with too small a hook. Fine if you want a ruffled look but not fine if you don't. Otherwise, I typically prefer a large hook if I want a soft item like a shawl. I've made some Seraphina's out of sport yarn and I or J hooks. Soft, light and drapey. On a fitted item like eurolyons just talked about gauge is crucial!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take Ibuprofen before you begin because your arms and hands are gonna ache before you're through! :lolwith tongue firmly in cheek...

 

No, I actually do recommend gauge swatches even for doilies, because I have been badly burnt by not doing it. A doily will ruffle beyond blocking out if it is done with too small a hook. Fine if you want a ruffled look but not fine if you don't. Otherwise, I typically prefer a large hook if I want a soft item like a shawl. I've made some Seraphina's out of sport yarn and I or J hooks. Soft, light and drapey. On a fitted item like eurolyons just talked about gauge is crucial!

 

Yep...(even though I don't make a gauge swatch for doilies...) What I have been known to do (even with wearables) is when I start the project and have not done a swatch, I have the tape measure close at hand and when I get about 4" inches of rows, I'll measure and count the rows and the stitches and count the gauge that way. Usually I'm right on point and no worries...but if I'm not, then I can make adjustments...

 

It really depends on the project whether or not I'll make up that swatch. It's a no brainer to me to make one if it's an experienced pattern with what looks like a challenging stitch pattern. However, once in a while some seemingly simple pattern for a baby afghan might actually require one too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So many good ideas here, I too fold over the yarn, and thread through a darning needle, never had a problem cept maybe a bit more difficult with homespun, or bouciles. Also, when trying a new stitch, i too make a swatch, two reasons, one, to see if can do it, and how it looks when I do it, and B. (lol) for size, and hook samples. I weave in the ends sometimes three and four times, back and forth up and down, and very seldom have any poke through in the washing and drying cycles. I have used Fabric Tack on a few ends , specially the caron yarns here and there, as they tend to slide out easily, I just"paint" some on the very middle of the tail I am wanting to weave in, and then weave it, the fabric tack secures it,without showing, or worse yet, feeling it!

I learn by doing, so reading through a pattern is helpful, but if I can see a stitch done, I have it! I love the tutorials on the net, and use them often.

I love zip locks too; and i always make extra chains, it's easy to pull them out if not needed. I guess sometimes we all do things that would be considered short cuts, or tips, but we never think of them that way, as we have always done it like that, lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just now tried something I've never done before, although some of you may have: I patched in a dc where I had missed one on the row before! :lol I am working a doily/small tablecloth and it would have felt like miles of thread to pull out and rework and I didn't wanna! I threaded a large eye needle with a second ball and worked it into the stitches directly below where I needed a new stitch, leaving the ball end where the missing stitch needed to go. Here's how I worked the stitch...

 

1. Insert the hook into the dc which is next to where it would have been in if I hadn't missed a stitch.

 

2. Work the dc just as it would have been done.

 

3. Finish by pulling the last YO through the adjacent dc where I put the hook in step 1.

 

4. Pull the thread through. After finishing a couple more rows work the tail in to hide it.

 

 

These directions may be clear as mud and I am sorry, I'm not sure how to write them better, but... I am so proud of myself. :D I don't have to frog nearly two rows! Yay!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just now tried something I've never done before, although some of you may have: I patched in a dc where I had missed one on the row before! :lol I am working a doily/small tablecloth and it would have felt like miles of thread to pull out and rework and I didn't wanna! I threaded a large eye needle with a second ball and worked it into the stitches directly below where I needed a new stitch, leaving the ball end where the missing stitch needed to go. Here's how I worked the stitch...

 

1. Insert the hook into the dc which is next to where it would have been in if I hadn't missed a stitch.

 

2. Work the dc just as it would have been done.

 

3. Finish by pulling the last YO through the adjacent dc where I put the hook in step 1.

 

4. Pull the thread through. After finishing a couple more rows work the tail in to hide it.

 

 

These directions may be clear as mud and I am sorry, I'm not sure how to write them better, but... I am so proud of myself. :D I don't have to frog nearly two rows! Yay!

 

 

Way awesome! Sometimes if I have the same problem and it's like a row or two down I'll do sort of a front post affair (like if it was a dc and I'm a row or two away, I'll do a treble or double treble down to the missed area...) I'll at least try it to see if it's too noticeable. If it is, I'll frog, if not, good to go. I've noticed that many people don't even know where the "mistake" is unless I point it out. That being said, I'm filing away this tip because it's golden!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...