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(Solved) This doesnt make sense to me please help


rene.H.2000

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So ive been working on this sweater pattern for my Cousins christmas present an its been working well…..but now ive run into an issue with the neck/shoulder forming. 
i Hope somebody can help.🙏🏻

to me it seems like you need to decrease more stitches than available.

The are the instructions that i am struggling with.

„ Dec one st each side at beg of this and
next 3 (5-7-9) rows --58 (64-70-76) dc rem.

Shape Neck and Right Shoulder: Mark off
center 36 (40-44-48) sts. Working on right 11 (12-
13-14) sts only, and continuing the decs at armhole,
work to marked sts, ch 1, turn. SI st across 3 sts,
ch 3, work until 2 sts rem, dec, ch 3, turn. Con-
tinue to dec at armhole, work to 3 sts before last
turning point, ch 1, turn. Sl st across 3 sts, ch 3,
work until 2 sts rem, dec, ch 3, turn. Dec one st
at each edge until 3 sts rem. Fasten off.
Work left shoulder and neck to correspond.“

Thanks☺️
 

(edit; i have 64 stitches wich is the correct number….😕)

Edited by rene.H.2000
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Hi, welcome to the 'ville!

Did the first part make sense (the 'first paragraph')?  The only part of that which didn't to me was 'de', unless maybe that was a typo for dc (the rest of part you quoted does not say what stitch you are making).  I'm assuming since you've gotten past this, that "3 (5-7-9) rows --58 (64-70-76) [presumably DCs]" makes sense, as the instructions for 4 different sizes, example size extra small(small, medium, large), and that if you are making small for example you'd only pay attention to the first number, before the parentheses--so, in the above, 3 rows

"Mark off center 36 (40-44-48) sts."  Since those are all even numbers, I'd find the center and put a stitch marker in that spot (I use bobby pins for stitch markers, but a safety pin or even just a short piece of scrap yarn pulled into your fabric at that spot will work) and count off half the number for your size - example, if you are making the smallest size, count off 18 stitches on either side of the marker, and then put a marker where those 2 spots are.

I'm going to pretend that you are making the small size, just to pick one size to illustrate in bold, and I've filled in 2 abbreviations for clarity.  This is just the first paragraph of what you quoted:

Dec(rease) one st each side at beg of this and next 3 (5-7-9) rows --58 (64-70-76) dc rem(ain).

So, if you are decreasing 1 stitch at each end of a row, that is 2 stitches per row.  "decrease for this and next 3 rows" for the small size, is 4 rows total, you are decreasing 1 stitch at each side so that means you have removed 8 stitches at the end of the 4th row of decreases.  The pattern says after the decreases you should end up with 58 stitches for small, which means before the increases you should have had 58+8=66 stitches.  Did you end up with whatever the right number should be if you were doing another size, following the logic I just described?  Did you start with the right number?

The part of the sweater that this instruction is describing is the bottom of the armholes on either side, so you are either making a sleeveless vest or a set-in sleeve pullover (in other words, not a drop-shoulder sleeve), and presumably the front half because the neck starts fairly low (3 to 9 sts above the armpit, depending on the size you're really making).  To orient you, you marked the center because that is going to become the neckline, and you will stop working all the way across up to the shoulder, then later come back and re-attach the yarn and work back and forth from the center to shoulder to form the other side, neckline to armhole to the shoulder.  

 

 

 

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47 minutes ago, Granny Square said:

Hi, welcome to the 'ville!

Did the first part make sense (the 'first paragraph')?  The only part of that which didn't to me was 'de', unless maybe that was a typo for dc (the rest of part you quoted does not say what stitch you are making).  I'm assuming since you've gotten past this, that "3 (5-7-9) rows --58 (64-70-76) [presumably DCs]" makes sense, as the instructions for 4 different sizes, example size extra small(small, medium, large), and that if you are making small for example you'd only pay attention to the first number, before the parentheses--so, in the above, 3 rows

"Mark off center 36 (40-44-48) sts."  Since those are all even numbers, I'd find the center and put a stitch marker in that spot (I use bobby pins for stitch markers, but a safety pin or even just a short piece of scrap yarn pulled into your fabric at that spot will work) and count off half the number for your size - example, if you are making the smallest size, count off 18 stitches on either side of the marker, and then put a marker where those 2 spots are.

I'm going to pretend that you are making the small size, just to pick one size to illustrate in bold, and I've filled in 2 abbreviations for clarity.  This is just the first paragraph of what you quoted:

Dec(rease) one st each side at beg of this and next 3 (5-7-9) rows --58 (64-70-76) dc rem(ain).

So, if you are decreasing 1 stitch at each end of a row, that is 2 stitches per row.  "decrease for this and next 3 rows" for the small size, is 4 rows total, you are decreasing 1 stitch at each side so that means you have removed 8 stitches at the end of the 4th row of decreases.  The pattern says after the decreases you should end up with 58 stitches for small, which means before the increases you should have had 58+8=66 stitches.  Did you end up with whatever the right number should be if you were doing another size, following the logic I just described?  Did you start with the right number?

The part of the sweater that this instruction is describing is the bottom of the armholes on either side, so you are either making a sleeveless vest or a set-in sleeve pullover (in other words, not a drop-shoulder sleeve), and presumably the front half because the neck starts fairly low (3 to 9 sts above the armpit, depending on the size you're really making).  To orient you, you marked the center because that is going to become the neckline, and you will stop working all the way across up to the shoulder, then later come back and re-attach the yarn and work back and forth from the center to shoulder to form the other side, neckline to armhole to the shoulder.  

 

 

 

Thank you for your help

The part i dont understand is how you can so that many decreases while „only working on 12 stitches“.

or its poorly written idk.

also its basically Just working on the armhole the neckline is added later, working around with sleeves attached and all.

 

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Pasting so I don't have to scroll:

"Dec one st each side at beg of this and next 3 (5-7-9) rows --58 (64-70-76) de rem.

Shape Neck and Right Shoulder: Mark off center 36 (40-44-48) sts.

Working on right 11 (12-13-14) sts only, and continuing the decs at armhole, work to marked sts, ch 1, turn. SI st across 3 sts, ch 3, work until 2 sts rem, dec, ch 3, turn.

Continue to dec at armhole, work to 3 sts before last turning point, ch 1, turn. Sl st across 3 sts, ch 3, work until 2 sts rem, dec, ch 3, turn.

Dec one st at each edge until 3 sts rem. Fasten off.
Work left shoulder and neck to correspond."

I don't think the neckline happens later, unless I'm failing to imagine what is going on (entirely possible).  Here is why I think this is the case:  It looks like you are working the second size, since you mentioned 12 stitches.  I've marked your size in red.

Previously you were working over 64 stitches.  You will stop working on the center 40 -- I am pretty sure the skipped stitches are the neckline, and now you are working on one of the shoulder 'straps' (the part of the neckline on either side of your neck which will get a sleeve attached to later).  

The below generic sketch is one I did to explain a similar situation a while back--while the outline is slightly different than yours, the 'parts' are made the same way -- I think you are working on the yellow section right now, and when you get to the shoulder you will will finish off, and reattach the yarn and make the red section (or vice versa). 

 

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14 minutes ago, Granny Square said:

Pasting so I don't have to scroll:

"Dec one st each side at beg of this and next 3 (5-7-9) rows --58 (64-70-76) de rem.

Shape Neck and Right Shoulder: Mark off center 36 (40-44-48) sts.

Working on right 11 (12-13-14) sts only, and continuing the decs at armhole, work to marked sts, ch 1, turn. SI st across 3 sts, ch 3, work until 2 sts rem, dec, ch 3, turn.

Continue to dec at armhole, work to 3 sts before last turning point, ch 1, turn. Sl st across 3 sts, ch 3, work until 2 sts rem, dec, ch 3, turn.

Dec one st at each edge until 3 sts rem. Fasten off.
Work left shoulder and neck to correspond."

I don't think the neckline happens later, unless I'm failing to imagine what is going on (entirely possible).  Here is why I think this is the case:  It looks like you are working the second size, since you mentioned 12 stitches.  I've marked your size in red.

Previously you were working over 64 stitches.  You will stop working on the center 40 -- I am pretty sure the skipped stitches are the neckline, and now you are working on one of the shoulder 'straps' (the part of the neckline on either side of your neck which will get a sleeve attached to later).  

The below generic sketch is one I did to explain a similar situation a while back--while the outline is slightly different than yours, the 'parts' are made the same way -- I think you are working on the yellow section right now, and when you get to the shoulder you will will finish off, and reattach the yarn and make the red section (or vice versa). 

 

Thanks again 🥲

the Problem is the colors also have to match up cuz its a patterned sweater.

This is how it continues.

“(This First Part referes to the sleeves) Shape Armholes: Shape same as back.
Shape Neck and Right Shoulder: Shape 11
(12-13-14) edge sts at ach side of sleeve to match
back.

YOKE: Beg at center back and using MC and B
and alternating 2 de of each color, de across 18
(20-22-24),
* 16 sts across shoulder shaping of
body and sleeve, 40 sts across top of sleeve, 16
sts across shoulder shaping of body and sleeve
de across 36 (40-44-48) front sts, rep between
"SI
ending de across 18 (20-22-24) --216 (224-232-
240) de.
Rnd 2: Make checkerboard effect by working 2
B over 2 MC and 2 MC over 2 B.
Rnd 3: With MC, evenly dec 20 (28-36-14) sts.
196 de rem.“

Also i attached an Image of what its gonna be…

i Hope you can help youve been very kind Thank you 🥺 

edit; the de stands for double crochet🤷🏻‍♂️

4DAC4D74-6F7A-44E6-A4F7-56B3D3284B2C.jpeg

Edited by rene.H.2000
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Wow, that's pretty (ah, the 1980s, which I lived thru and even still have some oversized sweaters to prove it, but I tossed the shoulder pads!!

So now the sleeves (coming later) make sense (raglan), but the pieced construction is something I've not done before.  I've knitted a lot of raglans (for me), and crocheted a couple (baby sweaters); IMO the 'whole point' of a raglan is that the whole body is basically done in 1 piece, in the round, and you 'pick up and knit (or crochet) the sleeves on after making the body, so no seams (except usually a couple of stitches at the underarms).

I need to run off for abit, but promise to come back and look at this later.

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Just now, Granny Square said:

Wow, that's pretty (ah, the 1980s, which I lived thru and even still have some oversized sweaters to prove it, but I tossed the shoulder pads!!

So now the sleeves (coming later) make sense (raglan), but the pieced construction is something I've not done before.  I've knitted a lot of raglans (for me), and crocheted a couple (baby sweaters); IMO the 'whole point' of a raglan is that the whole body is basically done in 1 piece, in the round, and you 'pick up and knit (or crochet) the sleeves on after making the body, so no seams (except usually a couple of stitches at the underarms).

I need to run off for abit, but promise to come back and look at this later.

Thank you so much 🙏🏻
i think I’ll try to just Wing it in the meantime, ive crochet something similar recently so we‘ll see how it goes 😅

 

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