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How can I do gauge if there’s not one on pattern


Abixxlou

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I would be giving that pattern the side-eye and look for another one, especially if it REALLY needs to fit accurately and is a complex construction (example, a bikini top dress).  There are a lot of  great free self published patterns out there, but I think 10x more gawdawful ones nowadays.  I recommend sticking with patterns from yarn companies or magazines that are likely to be tech-edited, accurate and complete.

Does it tells you which weight yarn to use, and hook size? If the answers to both is 'yes', and it is something with a 'simple-ish' and not form-fitting construction, like a T-shirt, you can do a gauge swatch with the hook and yarn size specified and calculate the width of 1 stitch, and multiply that by the number of stitches 'around' to see if you are on track.

Example, let's say it's a shirt and the front and back are the same except maybe for neck shaping.  Let's say a top with a 40" circumference would be in the ballpark to fit you (trying to keep the math easy).  Say the front and back are both 80 stitches across, so 160 stitches.  40 divided by 160 is 0.25"--this is the width of 1 stitch, so you'd have to hit a gauge where each stitch is 0.25", or 4 stitches per inch which is 16 inches across a 4" swatch  (I told you I was keeping the math easy LOL).  This is in the ballpark for a US #4 weight yarn gauge.

If it gives multiple sizes, sometimes I make a swatch and not quite hitting gauge one way or the other, and (let's say) I would be in the pattern's medium measurement range normally, but if my stitches are smaller than the pattern gauge (but looked OK) I'll calculate what would happen if I followed a 'large' size, or 'small' if my stitches were a bit big.  Unless there is something intricate going on with colorwork or stitch patterns, with really lengthy repeats, you can just add or subtract rows for that measurement to work.

I hope that all makes sense.

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6 hours ago, Granny Square said:

I would be giving that pattern the side-eye and look for another one, especially if it REALLY needs to fit accurately and is a complex construction (example, a bikini top dress).  There are a lot of  great free self published patterns out there, but I think 10x more gawdawful ones nowadays.  I recommend sticking with patterns from yarn companies or magazines that are likely to be tech-edited, accurate and complete.

Does it tells you which weight yarn to use, and hook size? If the answers to both is 'yes', and it is something with a 'simple-ish' and not form-fitting construction, like a T-shirt, you can do a gauge swatch with the hook and yarn size specified and calculate the width of 1 stitch, and multiply that by the number of stitches 'around' to see if you are on track.

Example, let's say it's a shirt and the front and back are the same except maybe for neck shaping.  Let's say a top with a 40" circumference would be in the ballpark to fit you (trying to keep the math easy).  Say the front and back are both 80 stitches across, so 160 stitches.  40 divided by 160 is 0.25"--this is the width of 1 stitch, so you'd have to hit a gauge where each stitch is 0.25", or 4 stitches per inch which is 16 inches across a 4" swatch  (I told you I was keeping the math easy LOL).  This is in the ballpark for a US #4 weight yarn gauge.

If it gives multiple sizes, sometimes I make a swatch and not quite hitting gauge one way or the other, and (let's say) I would be in the pattern's medium measurement range normally, but if my stitches are smaller than the pattern gauge (but looked OK) I'll calculate what would happen if I followed a 'large' size, or 'small' if my stitches were a bit big.  Unless there is something intricate going on with colorwork or stitch patterns, with really lengthy repeats, you can just add or subtract rows for that measurement to work.

I hope that all makes sense.

agree

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