Help with Gauge

[LoveNeedleArts]

Although I'm new to crochet, I'm trying to learn about gauge.     It hasn't been a big problem for me yet, as I prefer to stitch non-wearable items.   

I understand what gauge is, and how it relates to a pattern, and even understand about making adjustments if your gauge doesn't match the pattern.

My questions are:

1)  if making a dish cloth or other small item and the finished size is supposed to be 9" square; I sometimes find my finished piece coming out at only 7" or 8".   I'm guessing it has to do with the tension, gauge, or not using the exact yarn as the pattern, etc.   But how to correct the problem?    

2)  When I do my foundation chain as pattern states, shouldn't the length of the chain be the same length as the finished project?  It seems like if a finished piece is 9" then the foundation chain should be equally that long?

3)  When I swatch, my adjustments (going up a hook size or down a hook size) still don't fix the problem.   Ex:   pattern states 11 sts x 10 rows = 2 inches.   My swatch comes out with 8 sts x 8 rows = 2 inches.   This is with the adjustments.    

I'm wondering if I'm just not understanding how to properly count the stitches to meet the 2 inches or perhaps some other misunderstanding on my part?

Many thanks!

[magiccrochetfan]

hi, welcome to the Ville!  

1.  The first thing to think about would be, as you said, the yarn you are using is different.  If you look at the yarn weight categories https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/weight.html each category is actually a range.  So if you have 2 yarns that are both classed as worsted for example, one may be lighter and more of a DK while the other may be heavier and closer to bulky.  One example would be Caron Simply Soft; the mfr classes it as Aran (heavy worsted) but for many of us it works up like a DK.  So the closer you can match the yarn suggested in the pattern, the easier it should be to get gauge.  

Other things to consider when trying to control your gauge:  There really is no reason to have a tight grip on either your hook or your yarn (unless you are making something like a basket that needs to be quite dense).  So try to loosen up as much as you can.  I find that an ergonomic hook helps me have a loose grip on the hook, and my #1 favorites are Tulip Etimo https://designingvashti.com/product/tulip-etimo-crochet-hook-by-size/  My #2 favorites are Clover Amour http://www.clover-usa.com/en/30-amour-crochet-hooks   Everybody's hands are a little different and other people have other favorites so you may have to try different brands to find your best fit.  

The height of stitches can vary depending on exactly you make the stitch.  Don't tug on the stitch after you make it.  here's a post on Ravelry (I think you have to sign in there to see it) about different styles of rider, lifter, or yanker https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/crochet-liberation-front-headquarters/178539/1-25#8      There's also the Golden Loop method which I first heard about in a post here on the Ville by the late Jean Leinhauser 

 

[Granny Square]

Commenting on your questions first, and more on gauge after.

1)  I like to make wash cloths (for the bath; for kitchen I like the lighter weight 'store bought' ones), and found that 8" is a pretty ideal size.  Cotton g-r-o-w-s  when it's wet, and much bigger than that it's like washing with a bed sheet.  But that's just me.

2) You would think so, huh?  That still trips me up sometimes too, it's hard to guess.  When you put stitches into the chain, it makes the chain wider and sort of tightens them, if that makes sense.  One thing nice about crochet is that it doesn't ravel from the opposition to your stitching, so a safe(ish) thing to do is chain longer than you think you need it, make stitches into the chain until it gets to the measurement you want, and later pick out the unused chain at the knot end.  I also do this when it says to chain over 100 or so, just in case I miscount it's less of a pain to undo some chains than start over.

3) Your width gauge should grow or shrink with a bigger or smaller hook, but some of us have shorter or taller relative height tension regardless--remember designers are human too, and their gauges vary in both directions as well.  Usually you can get away with making more or fewer rows, or sometimes using a taller or shorter stitch depending on the pattern.  I do make a lot of wearables, and pay more attention to width tension than height.

Now, in general...a lot of patterns suggest a gauge swatch size of 4" or 10cm...I don't think 2" is that common, and also don't think 2" is big enough to get a true reading.  In any event, it's recommended to make a swatch bigger than the suggested swatch size, example make it 6" instead of 4", and measure the interior 4" because the stitches on the edge can be a little wonky, the interior ones are 'truer' to size.  

Back in the dark ages when I was a new crocheter, I kept the yarn at the throat of the hook, and made really tight stitches.  I eventually realized I needed to form the stitches farther back, beyond the throat and onto the shaft, because the shaft is what determines the stitch size.  It took a little while to retrain myself to move the stitch up and down the hook, but it made a BIG difference.  Not sure if you are doing this as well, just thought I'd mention it since a lot of new crocheters stitch tightly, and since you mentioned that changing the hook doesn't fix the problem..

[Granny Square]

Oops...Hi Magic!  Good point about the yarn weight.

[magiccrochetfan]

If you search around in the forums here there are frequent posts about gauge and lots of ideas for things people have done to adjust their gauge.

Your question 2:  Yes the beginning chain should be as long as you want the width of the item to be...or a bit longer.  You can use a bigger hook for the beginning chain only to make it looser, then go back to the main hook for the first row.

46 minutes ago, LoveNeedleArts said:

I'm wondering if I'm just not understanding how to properly count the stitches to meet the 2 inches

How are you counting your stitches?  And 2 inches is really not enough to get an accurate gauge.  the standard for counting sts and measuring rows is a 4x4 inch square, and this should be in the center of a bigger swatch, like about 6x6 inches.  

 

[magiccrochetfan]

2 minutes ago, Granny Square said:

Oops...Hi Magic!  Good point about the yarn weight.

Hiya, Granny Square!  Somehow I had a feeling that we were going to meet here lol

LoveNeedleArts, I am joking because Granny Square and I often post almost simultaneously  

[magiccrochetfan]

6 minutes ago, Granny Square said:

Back in the dark ages when I was a new crocheter, I kept the yarn at the throat of the hook, and made really tight stitches.  I eventually realized I needed to form the stitches farther back, beyond the throat and onto the shaft, because the shaft is what determines the stitch size. 

This is a hugely important point!  

Another thing to be sure about is the stitch names in the pattern you are following.  In the US we have a different system of stitch names than is used in the UK and Australia and it can be confusing at first.  What the US system calls single crochet, the UK calls double crochet.  

 

[LoveNeedleArts]

Thanks everyone for such good advice.    I've only been crocheting for about 18 months and I am self taught.   Sure hope I didn't teach myself any bad habits!!!  LOL

Everything you say makes sense and since I don't have anyone (before now) to ask or help me, I do a lot of research and reading.    Sometimes the Internet and YouTube are invaluable and sometimes... well... its the Internet.

I will work more on my tension.  I know I do stitch tightly, but I do try to always move the loop up onto the shaft of the hook.   Am familiar with the "lifter, grabber, rider" terms and I will work on that too.  I'm also careful to read the pattern and be sure its US terms as a lot of the things I find are from the UK.

Don't get me wrong....I've made some very successful things, but I just want to get better and do it right.   Mostly I want to "understand" the How and Why of crochet.

Many thanks again for your responses.   I'm sure I'll be reading a lot here and you probably will hear from me again!  

Sue