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Rainbowis

KEY Tap Vest Pullover

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Hi Crocheters,

 

I have been working on a pattern issued on Crochet! magazine "Key tab vest" for men, almost finalizing it but i stopped at the part related to the front shoulders; I think that there is something wrong as the working stitches are not the same for both shoulders, also are not as the back.

 

can anyone help me in order to finish it.

 

Regards,

Rainbowis

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View of what the pattern looks like

Nice!  Simple but striking pattern.  I don't have the magazine, but the shaping (outline) seems pretty simple, and each front piece on either side of the neck should be mirror images of each other.  The only difference (the mirror part) is that on one side, you'd start the first row of neck shaping from the armhole toward the neck and then work back and forth up to the shoulder, but on the other side you'd start the first row at the neck and work toward the armhole - this keeps the stitches all facing the same way.

I hate to say this, but i stopped subscribing to crochet mags some time ago because the errata each month was almost longer than the magazines.  If I were making this vest, and the first half of the neck shaping came out OK, I'd just work the other one the same but where it says 'neck edge' treat it as 'armhole edge' and vice versa.

 

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the problem I am facing is that i found as follows:

Back First Shoulder Shaping

Row 1: Ch 1, hdc in first stand in each of next 16 [19, 22, 25, 30, 33] sts, leaving rep sts unworked, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in each st across, turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in each st across. Fasten off.

Back 2nd Shoulder Shaping

Row 1: Sk next 29 [31, 33, 35, 37, 39] on Back from First Neck Shaping, join deep slate blue in next st, ch 1, hdc in same st and in each st across, turn. (17 [20, 23, 26, 31, 34] hdc)

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in each st across, turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in each st across. Fasten off.

HOWEVER

Front First Shoulder Shaping

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in each of next 16 [19, 22, 25, 30, 33] sts, leaving rem sts unworked, turn. (17 [20, 23, 26, 31, 34] dc)

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in each st across, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in each st across, turn.

Rows 5 & 6: Rep rows 3 and 4. At end of last row, fasten off.

Front 2nd Shoulder Shaping

Row 1: Sk next 29 [31, 33, 35, 37, 39] on Front from First Shoulder Shaping, join deep slate blue in next st, ch 1, hdc in same st and in each st across, turn. (17 [20, 23, 26, 31, 34] hdc)

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in each st across, turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in each st across.

Rows 5-8: [Rep rows 3 and 4 alternately] twice. At end of last row, fasten off.

 

The written red are the variances is that correct??

Or it should be amended to be the same length at the front and same shape of the stitches.

Regards,

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Oops, I overlooked the "doesn't match the back" part of your first post, and my thoughts about mirroring were about the 2 fronts matching each other.  They likely won't match the back, in fact I've made items with a front neck 'dip' and the back neck was straight across.  If you look at yourself in profile, your head & neck sit a little forward of your shoulders so the back shaping should be higher than the front so it sits right on your shoulders.  If you make the front and the back at the same depth on a crew neck like this the front will ride up while the back will ride back and make your neck drafty (found this out the hard way while learning to knit Scandinavian style raglan sweaters, there's a 'hack' to correct this that the patterns never tell you about)

The fact that the front neckline is deeper is to be expected, and is not an error.  However, you're right, the front is hosed up in that the 2 sides of the front shoulders should match.  

The front and back are started identically as the body then the 'band' sections, for the same number of rows.  The pattern stitch is alternating rows of HDC+ch1 and of DC.

Then the back continues for 5 rows beyond the band(row 9-13), then 4 rows of shoulder shaping.  5 + 4 = 9

The front continues for 2 rows beyond the band (rows 9 & 10), then 6 rows of shoulder shaping on one side, and 8 on the other. 2 + 6 = 8, 2 + 8 = 10.  I'd split the difference to match the back for 9 rows.  The reason that the front and the back shaping start with a different stitch of the stitch pattern is that the back works an odd number beyond the band (5) before starting the shoulder shaping, and the front works an even number beyond the band (2) ; if they both were an odd or even number you'd start the 2-row pattern repeat with the same stitch, but since they aren't, you don't.

Sorry this is so verbose, I was figuring it out and explaining at the same time ;) 

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No, the pattern has 1 thing wrong (that I spotted) : the length of the 2 fronts are different from each other and neither match the armhole length of the back above the band (the point that the fronts and back diverge).  I'm assuming the number of rows above the band for the back is correct.

I think I edited a part of my previous post, or at least I meant to say that I was counting the rows using the smallest size of the pattern.

 

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I'm looking at the link version so I can see the whole pattern, and I am seeing where it tells you to sew the shoulder seams, but I can't find where it tells you to sew the side seams.  You are going to have to do this before starting the bottom edging, and the armhole edging, because both are worked in the round.

The bottom edging will be worked into the underside of the chain, into the unused loops of the foundation chain, and working in the opposite direction as you worked the rest of the vest (toward the feet, not toward the head).  You will be working in the round, but not in a spiral (as it describes, you'll be joining the rounds and chaining up.  The join will be at an 'underarm seam' area.

Does this help you get started?  If not, and you've already seamed the sides, could you be more specific re: the spot you're stuck on?

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Bottom Edging

Rnd 1: With RS facing, working in starting ch on opposite side of rnd 1 on Body, join deep slate blue with sc in first ch, sc in each ch around, join in beg sc. (That means that i am working in rounds, correct?)

Rnd 2: Working in front lps (see Stitch Guide), ch 3, dc in each st around, join in 3rd ch of beg ch-3, turn.

Rnd 3: Working rem lps of rnd 1, dc in each st around, join in 3rd ch of beg ch-3, do not turn. (rem means remainder, correct?; If so where is the remaining lps as i am working in rounds?)

Rnd 4: Working through all lps on rnds 2 and 3, ch 1, sc in each st around, join in beg sc. Fasten off.

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Round 1 - yes, as I said in my previous post you are working in rounds (after you sew the side seams to make the bottom round).  (note it says Rnd1, not row 1) One thing you didn't highlight but I want to point out, it says "working in the starting ch on opposite side of round 1 on body" -- this is what I was describing above about working into the underside of the chain, using the unused loops of the foundation chain, and working down (versus up as you'd worked the rest of the vest).

Round 3 - in round 2, you worked into the front loops of the stitches of round 1.  This left 1 loop of the stitches in round 1 unused ("remaining").  In round 3, you work into these unused/remaining loops.  I suspect a general list of abbreviations might have been in the back of the original magazine.

Round 4 - not sure if there is a question here, but 'all loops' mean the 2 loops you'd normally use.

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