Need help changing colours

[sodaceratops]

Hi everyone! I'm in the middle of making a skirted sweater/jacket without a pattern. I'm very new to crocheting, only started about a week ago so I've run into a bit of trouble with switching the colours. I want the skirt part of the sweater to have a different colour in a tapered, triangle shape. The issue I'm having is that I'm crocheting horizontally and I want the colour to go down vertically. So the first row with a colour change, I only want one or two double crochet to be a different colour, and the next row 3 or 5 stitches would be different and so on, going into a taper. So what would be the best way to execute the colour change?

I tried to upload a quick picture I drew of what I'm talking about but it wouldn't upload so here a quick diagram...

........./.../0\............/0\...\

...../.../0000\......./0000\...\

./.../0000000\../0000000\...\

The 0's would be the colour change.

[Granny Square]

If you have an image in your computer, at the bottom of the area where you typed your post there was a pale blue band with a paper clip that said 'drag here to attach' and noted the type of files that work. (pdf, jpg. jpeg, gif, png).  

So, the /\ and ... are all 1 color, an the 0s is the second color?  Or are the 3 symbols 3 colors?

Either way...and I'm assuming you are working in sc (US terms), sc stitches are square-ish.  So your design is going to look pixilated.  Also, the nature of the crochet stitch is the edges are going to look slightly jagged, beyond the pixellation (versus a knit stitch, where you see a very clean color definition in colorwork)

The cleanest way to change colors is, when you are at the last step of making the sc (yarning over and pulling through the last 2 loops) is to yarn over with the new color and pull thru, then continue with the new color.

You can switch colors by carrying the unused color across the back, but not more than a few stitches (the knitting rule is 5, but fewer is better).  If it's too long to carry (and that includes the 'up' direction as well as across), you'll need to cut the ends (leave 5-6 inches to weave in).  

Assuming you are able to carry the yarn, you'll be working with 1 or more skeins hanging from your work, which can become a tangled mess.  Best way to deal with this is when you turn your work, to turn 1 direction, then the next row turn the other - this way the tangle/twist is never more than 1 crossover, because the next row uncrosses it.