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Flat hat :(


jlcgrandma

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I’m no expert but I thought I was past beginner level until ...... da da daaaa (creepy music). I had a stroke in January and find this activity great for my brain & overall well being. Since stroke day  I’ve crocheted over 100 American Girl outfits to distribute  every young girl I know it seems from Grandma Phyllis.....  at least a dozen blankets, several pillows, hats & scarfs  and a few stuffed animals. I always purchase patterns, firm believer in rewarding creativity. 

So that’s by backstory - here’s my problem. I purchased a pattern to make an adorable football hat for my nephew. I can’t seem to get a cap like the picture on the pattern. I keep getting almost a pillbox looking hat and because it’s for a young child I can’t try it on. I’ve switched hooks 3 times. The pattern has at least 8 varied sizes from newborn to xl adult 

attached is the pattern I purchased and my hat which according to instructions is only 2 rows from completion but no where near a cap and no response from email sent to where I purchased pattern from  

can anyone tell me what I’m doing wrong? I’ve crocheted troll hats, cabbage patch hats, slouched beanies .... I’m bewildered 

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I think what you are doing is wonderful.

I bet it would form to his head, but I've got a thought that might get it to look less pill-boxy.

First, a tuturial and size charts for heads of various ages. http://thecrochetcrowd.com/crochet-hat-sizes-reference-guide/

The gist is, to know the recipient's head circumference (where the hat brim would sit, including over ears if that's the style).  Then, divide that number by pi (3.14), to get the diameter.  Then, make a flat circle the diameter you calculated, then work even to the brim - let's say your nephew fits into the child category on the linked chart, so 16-17 cm (I'm in the US but prefer working in mm, it's so much easier to do measurement math in metric).  16 cm is 6.3 inches, 17 cm is 6.7 inches.

So you have already made a flat circle and have started to work even.  Measure/count how many rounds works out to the 6.3-6.7 inch diameter.  Making up a number as I can't  quite see it, let's say 10 rounds.

Your piece is in SC; to make a flat circle in SC you typically start with 6 stitches, and increase by 6 stitches in each round.  What I suggest, say after round 7 (the point where you need 3 more increase rows in my made up scenario), is *make a plain round, make an increase round,repeat from the * twice more.  That would give you a more gradual drop-of from crown to side, but still get you the right number of stitches around.  My suggestion is just a guess, it might look better starting with round 8 for example, but I hope you get the idea .

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23 minutes ago, Granny Square said:

I think what you are doing is wonderful.

I bet it would form to his head, but I've got a thought that might get it to look less pill-boxy.

First, a tuturial and size charts for heads of various ages. http://thecrochetcrowd.com/crochet-hat-sizes-reference-guide/

The gist is, to know the recipient's head circumference (where the hat brim would sit, including over ears if that's the style).  Then, divide that number by pi (3.14), to get the diameter.  Then, make a flat circle the diameter you calculated, then work even to the brim - let's say your nephew fits into the child category on the linked chart, so 16-17 cm (I'm in the US but prefer working in mm, it's so much easier to do measurement math in metric).  16 cm is 6.3 inches, 17 cm is 6.7 inches.

So you have already made a flat circle and have started to work even.  Measure/count how many rounds works out to the 6.3-6.7 inch diameter.  Making up a number as I can't  quite see it, let's say 10 rounds.

Your piece is in SC; to make a flat circle in SC you typically start with 6 stitches, and increase by 6 stitches in each round.  What I suggest, say after round 7 (the point where you need 3 more increase rows in my made up scenario), is *make a plain round, make an increase round,repeat from the * twice more.  That would give you a more gradual drop-of from crown to side, but still get you the right number of stitches around.  My suggestion is just a guess, it might look better starting with round 8 for example, but I hope you get the idea .

Thank you for the kind words & taking time to reply but my eyes glazed over at the mention of pi haaaa

if I can pick your brain - this attached hat I made for an “adopted granddaughter “ formed what I consider a beanie cap type hat. 

The pattern I purchased had me begin with 10 DHC in a magic ring and I know I need to be in the 18” range for his head and the pattern does call for ear flaps  (so 7-10 yrs on the chart) am I correct in you suggest starting with 6 instead of 10 should give me the shape I’m looking for? My grandson is 13 (head measuring 21) so his head will surely stretch this out if I bribe him into acting as a model. 😜

D1BDB167-4BF7-4CCD-92C1-0BF676B4B823.jpeg

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25 minutes ago, Granny Square said:

I think what you are doing is wonderful.

I bet it would form to his head, but I've got a thought that might get it to look less pill-boxy.

First, a tuturial and size charts for heads of various ages. http://thecrochetcrowd.com/crochet-hat-sizes-reference-guide/

The gist is, to know the recipient's head circumference (where the hat brim would sit, including over ears if that's the style).  Then, divide that number by pi (3.14), to get the diameter.  Then, make a flat circle the diameter you calculated, then work even to the brim - let's say your nephew fits into the child category on the linked chart, so 16-17 cm (I'm in the US but prefer working in mm, it's so much easier to do measurement math in metric).  16 cm is 6.3 inches, 17 cm is 6.7 inches.

So you have already made a flat circle and have started to work even.  Measure/count how many rounds works out to the 6.3-6.7 inch diameter.  Making up a number as I can't  quite see it, let's say 10 rounds.

Your piece is in SC; to make a flat circle in SC you typically start with 6 stitches, and increase by 6 stitches in each round.  What I suggest, say after round 7 (the point where you need 3 more increase rows in my made up scenario), is *make a plain round, make an increase round,repeat from the * twice more.  That would give you a more gradual drop-of from crown to side, but still get you the right number of stitches around.  My suggestion is just a guess, it might look better starting with round 8 for example, but I hope you get the idea .

Also thank you for the reference chart!

i shall refer to it often! 

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You're welcome!  I love that wig-hat, I remember I had a similar  one when I was little.  You know, it never occurred to me it didn't come from a store...I never saw my mom crafting (too late to ask now).

The guideline/recipe for making a flat circle is

sc=start with 6, increase by 6 each round

hdc=start with 8 or 9, increase by 8 or 9 each round

dc=start with 12, increase by 12 each round

So, your hdc pattern starts with 1 more stitch than the guidelines I've run across.  Not everyone's stitch tension is the same, including the designers, and keeping a circle flat depends on one's stitch height tension.  I make short stitches and tend to get ruffling, which I remedy by removing stitches and blocking a little.  If someone makes tall stitches, they might get cupping (which can't be blocked out)  which is fixed by ripped back to before the cupping becomes obvious and adding stitches.  Maybe the designer of your wig-hat is a tall-ish stitch maker?  

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1 minute ago, Granny Square said:

You're welcome!  I love that wig-hat, I remember I had a similar  one when I was little.  You know, it never occurred to me it didn't come from a store...I never saw my mom crafting (too late to ask now).

The guideline/recipe for making a flat circle is

sc=start with 6, increase by 6 each round

hdc=start with 8 or 9, increase by 8 or 9 each round

dc=start with 12, increase by 12 each round

So, your hdc pattern starts with 1 more stitch than the guidelines I've run across.  Not everyone's stitch tension is the same, including the designers, and keeping a circle flat depends on one's stitch height tension.  I make short stitches and tend to get ruffling, which I remedy by removing stitches and blocking a little.  If someone makes tall stitches, they might get cupping (which can't be blocked out)  which is fixed by ripped back to before the cupping becomes obvious and adding stitches.  Maybe the designer of your wig-hat is a tall-ish stitch maker?  

Yes, I’ve never seen two people whose finished product is the same! I had not picked up yarn in YEARS, but after my stroke I needed something to help my brain and use of my hand again. It’s really been the best therapy for me and seeing the delight in others faces with my projects is certainly more fulfilling than crossword puzzles! 

Ive learned a lot from YouTube videos, my godmother taught me how to make a granny square and honestly prior to January when I decided to give this a try I couldn’t read a pattern or do anything other than a double crochet and a chain stitch. I’m not the caliber of 90% of the amazing crafters I see online but I’ve been enjoying it and it sure rounds out my grandmother trifecta (baking, board games & crocheting haha)  and I’ve taught several “adopted” grandchildren how to crochet making memories both with them & for them. 

Thank you again for taking the time to help me try to figure this out .... my aniexty is almost to the point where I can try to figure this out!

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15 hours ago, Granny Square said:

I'm so glad you're getting pleasure out of crocheting, and giving pleasure to others with your crochet gifts :yes  And YouTube is great for learning a new stitch, isn't it?  I still prefer paper patterns/charts for whole projects tho.

Progress!

with your kind help and the chart which I’ve printed and will use regularly as you can see the flat top is gone and I feel more confident in sending this to my nephew now! 

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and talking me off the ledge haaaaa. 

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