Cardigan tension help

[ButterflyBecky]

Hello, I'm having trouble with a pattern for a cardigan that I'm making for my Mum.

 

It says to start at the bottom with 297 stitches and a 4mm hook and later changing to a 3.5mm hook. I did the tension square and worked out that I need a 3mm hook to get the right tension but when I finished the 16" I need before I start on the armholes (which took over a week) I realised the edges weren't straight and when I lie it out on the floor it curves where the foundation chain is tight but my tension has loosened throughout the rows. I can't really go down any more on the hooks as it's worsted weight wool and a 2.5mm catches the wool too much plus I'm getting cramp in my hands from trying to get a tight stitch. 

 

Does anyone know how I can get the right tension throughout, I don't really want to undo it all but I'm starting to think I'm going to have to   

 

Thanks!!

[Granny Square]

Welcome to the 'ville!

 

I know you have put a lot of work into this, but in general...

 

Tight foundation chains are a common problem, it's not a bad idea to make the foundation chain in the next larger hook size and switch to the right size hook for the rest.  An alternative is using 'foundationless' stitches, which are looser although I'm personally not a fan of them.

 

For tension in general...yarn weights classes are a range, so Brand A worsted might be somewhat thinner/drapier than Brand B.  What I have done in the past for sweaters for myself is if I achieved gauge but don't like the drape of the swatch with the suggested hook, or if I've not gotten the exact gauge with the suggested hook but the drape is nice:  I've calculated the resulting sweater sizes with my personal gauge.

 

Example:  I want to make a sweater to fit a 40" bust, and that size has 200 stitches across the bust, so the pattern gauge is 5 stitches to the inch (200 stitches divided by 40).  Say my personal gauge is 5.5 stitches to the inch, so 200 stitches would be 36.4"  -  too small.  But, if I do the math, 40" divided by 5.5 stitches per inch is 220 stitches, so (hopefully) there is a larger size in the pattern that is close to 220 stitches, so I'll follow the larger size but get a sweater that fits me.  

 

As far as keeping tension consistent, that's a tough one.  Sometimes my tension will loosen up as a project gets heavier, or change a little with my mood.  One thing I've learned after crocheting many decades is to stop every few rows and 'admire' my work, it's better to spot a problem and rip back an inch versus ripping back a lot more.  

[ButterflyBecky]

Thank you for your reply Granny Square 

 

Using your theory I have worked out that I need 49.5 inches or 297sts on a 4mm hook. 297/49.5 = 6. My natural guage with a 4mm hook is 3.5sts to an inch 3.5 x 49.5 = 173.25 but the smallest pattern starts with 255 sts. So I worked out that if I did 5sts to the inch it would work out at 247.5 which I can do with a 3mm hook, but again, not at a natural tension.

 

I'm beginning to think this pattern isn't going to be as easy as I though    

[magiccrochetfan]

What yarn and hook does the pattern call for? A 3mm hook is very small for worsted wt yarn.

[ButterflyBecky]

Worsted weight and a 4mm hook. I've decided to just do the required amount of stitches with the right hook to get the length and then modify the pattern to the number of stitches. I've made sure I still have an odd amount of stitches and will just have to work out the rest by percentage and hope that it works.

 

 

For example:

The pattern says 297sts with a 4mm hook which will turn into 296sts once the first row of sc is done. So 296 - 22 = 274. You then need 80sts for each side and 122sts for the back. so 80/296 = 27.02 so we'll say 27%.

 

I'm doing 196sts with a 4mm hook, so 196 - 22 = 174 and 27% of 174 is 47.98 so we'll say 48sts for the side x2 = 96, 174 - 96 = 78sts which is the back. 

 

I hope I've worked that out right 

Do you think that will work??

[Granny Square]

I agree with Magiccrochetfan, I just realized how small the mm size was.  The pattern is calling out a hook size that is already smaller than I am comfortable using for worsted weight.

 

Your 'comfortable' gauge is 3.5 versus 6 stitches per inch, which is too much to fudge with another hook or following another size to fit--it almost sounds like you have to go down a yarn size or 2. which could get expensive trying to experiment with what would work.

 

I also didn't follow the math, or the construction of your sweater, in your last post.  Is this pattern a 'free' one on the internet to which you could post a link (don't post the pattern itself).