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How to count?


javifais

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Good evening y'all,

So glad to find this wonderful forum. I am making my first pattern. It is called zig zag afghan (ripple/chevron afghan)

For gauge swatch:

Ch. 17.

Row 1 Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (2 skipped chs count as hdc), hdc in next 5 chs, hdc3tog, hdc in next 5 chs, hdc3tog, 2 hdc in last ch - 1 small V.

Row 2 Ch2 (counts as hdc), turn; hdc in first st, hdc in next 5 sts, hdc3tog, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in first skipped ch.

So, the numbers don't make sense. If I am starting with 17 chain, then how would I fit 20 stiches (2(skipped) + 1 hdc + 5 hdc+ 3 (hdc3tog) + 5 hdc + 3 (hdc3tog)+1 for two hdc ) on top?

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Welcome to Crochetville! 

It helps to understand how ripples work. There are 4 parts... up hill, peak, down hill, valley. Up & down hills consist of the same number of stitches, in your pattern it's 5 hdc. The peak consists of an increase, 3 hdc in the same stitch. The valley consists of a decrease, hdc3tog. Note: 2 hdc in the same stitch at the ends are partial peaks.

You're making 15 stitches, not 20. Also, the 2nd hdc3tog in row 1 is a mistake. Here it is spelled out...

2hdc: ch2 + hdc in the same stitch is a partial peak.

5 hdc: hdc in next 5 stitches is a down hill.

Hdc3tog: decrease 3 stitches is a valley.

5 hdc: hdc in next 5 stitches is an up hill.

2hdc: 2 hdc in the same stitch is a partial peak. 

Count: 2+5+1+5+2 = 15 stitches 

By the way, it's super easy to lose count while making a ripple. All of the peaks and valleys must line up. How I keep track is counting out loud... 1 up, 2 up ... 5 up then 1 down, 2 down... 5 down. If a peak or valley don't line up, rip it out until they do.

A gauge for a ripple is not important, but it's great for practice! After 4-5 rows of the actual afghan, check your width. If it's too wide, remove 1 or more sets of up, peak, down, valley. If it's too narrow, add sets. You'll need to start over to change the width. (Hint: make more initial chains than you need. You can pick them out when you weave in the end.) If it's too short at the end of the pattern, just add more rows.

I hope this helps! 

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welcome from me too :-)

Just a couple things I will add to what RedRoses said---

using markers to keep track of the increase/peak and decrease/valley spots can be helpful.  

When you count stitches, only count the TOP of the stitch, do not count the legs...a decrease has two or more legs but only one top.  

I find stitch symbol diagrams to be VERY helpful in understanding stitch patterns, and ripples are a great example.   PlanetJune's pattern here shows why:    https://www.planetjune.com/blog/free-crochet-patterns/ribbed-ripple-crochet-pattern/   If you aren't yet familiar with these graphic patterns, here's a good intro https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=708&type_id=S&scat_id=3

 

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Thank you both. It is a relief to know that the instructions are incorrect. I have been driving myself crazy trying to make this pattern. This is the second pattern in a crochet book I bought, so never questioned the instructions.

Wow, after reading the article on graphic patterns, I can understand what they mean. I never though the patterns had so much information in them. For now I have decided to freestyle crochet until I am more comfortable with bigger/structured projects.

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You're welcome!  I really hope you give the ripple another try. The learning curve for them is not that steep and once you get over it, ripples are simple and satisfying. 

Don't be thrown by the article on graphics. Different people prefer different methods for learning new things. For example, I prefer words, Magic prefers graphics, someone else may prefer videos or a live teacher. Find the one method that makes the most sense to you. Start with that method to learn new patterns. As you begin to learn more about patterns, you can add in the other methods, if you want. It's more about the way you learn best, than about trying to figure out all the ways patterns are presented. 

Also, mistakes in patterns happens from time to time. It's an unfortunate coincidence that it happened in your first pattern. The good thing is that it's in the gauge instructions. The actual pattern is most likely mistake free.

Please give it another try! I say this because for many years I was intimidated by patterns. When I finally started using them, a whole new crochet world opened up. I went from squares and rectangles only to toys, clothes and even doilies from vintage instructions. I didn't jump to the complex. I started simple, like ripples, and built up slowly. My point is that learning to use patterns opened up my crochet knowledge. We're here to help, if you get stuck or want an easier way to do something. 

Whatever you decide, good luck & keep coming back to Crochetville! 

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13 hours ago, javifais said:

Thank you both. It is a relief to know that the instructions are incorrect. I have been driving myself crazy trying to make this pattern. This is the second pattern in a crochet book I bought, so never questioned the instructions.

Wow, after reading the article on graphic patterns, I can understand what they mean. I never though the patterns had so much information in them. For now I have decided to freestyle crochet until I am more comfortable with bigger/structured projects.

What book is this from?  and what's the name of the specific pattern?  

I'm glad you found the Annie's tutorial helpful.  the visual info is for me the best way to understand a pattern so I personally find it very useful.  

I think what RedRoses said is very true, there are multiple ways to learn and understand and usually one way will work the best for an individual.  Sometimes I think it's beneficial to use multiple ways to really "get" something....which is one reason I love these forums, different people come from slightly different angles to discuss, provide answers, and suggest references, so we can end up with a well-rounded view of the subject :hook

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