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Framing Filet Doilies


Startigerlily

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I've made two filet pieces that I'd like to get framed. One is a name doily and the other is of a horse head that I made for my dad. The thread thing is still kind of new to me. I know they need blocked, but I was wondering if I should stiffen them or not. Is it just personal preference? Any tips on the subject would be appreciated. Thanks! :D

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Belinda,

Hi. First, I used to live in Medina. What a small world. Back when I lived there is was a very small town. Is it still so small? I sure it has grown like most everyplace. We actually had a horse stable there.

 

As far as your filet pieces. I don't usually stiffen my pieces with anything other than spray sizing or starch. I just spray them and iron to shape.

 

I have framed several filet pieces and I just put a colored piece of heavy paper (from Michaels or someplace similar) behind the piece and then placed in the frame. Now in another thread here someone had said that it was better when framing to mat the piece. If I remember correctly they had said having the piece right against the glass could cause condensation and actually ruin the crochet.

 

The ones I framed are not matted as of yet. It is on my list of things to do. I would not hang them in the direct sunlight as I think the light would cause problems.

 

Hope this helps,

TLOL,

Toni

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Toni,

 

Hi. I'm sure Medina's changed a lot since you've lived here. Heck, in the three years I've been here there's been a lot of changes. New buildings and homes springing up here and there. The town square is being revitalized. It's a charming place to live.

 

Thanks for the framing info. It pretty much confirms what I thought. The name doily will probably be displayed over the fireplace, which is out of direct sunlight. I'm not sure where dad will hang his.

 

I also have to remember to label on the back of the mat with my name and when the pieces were completed. No mysteries for the future generations who may inherit them.

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What a great idea about marking the back of the mat. I am always looking for ways to identify what I have made. (Hoping that someone cares after I am dead :lol)

 

Many years ago when I lived in Medina, it was barely a spot on the map. I am sure that I would not recognize it now.

 

Good luck with your framing :manyheart

TLOL,

Toni

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Be careful with the paper you use in back of the doily, some can discolor the threads.

 

Also, I am not a fan of ironing doilies to block them. To get the doily blocked you need to smash the stitches, not a good thing, and you can't shape them as accuratedly as pinning them.

 

LOTS OF PINS, every row or at least every other row at the edge to keep it straight for filet. Make sure they are rust proof; some have posted that they've used toothpicks, I think they'd be too big (I pin into the stitch, not around it).

 

Wash or at least thoroughly wet the doily, spray with starch (optional, but this will just give it some body, it won't be stiff), squeeze out the excess. Make a template of the size/shape you want it to be on a piece of paper, put the paper between a piece of corrugated cardboard and some wax paper or plastic wrap, and pin the doily to your template. I normally let it dry for 1 day, but I might allow more time if you are going to frame it to make sure it is perfecly dry.

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starching,. blocking, and pinning are all good ideas with a framed piece. Another thing, I do is to "tack" the edges of the doily down with a needle and sewing thread. Some people prefer an adhesive but I think that actually would make the thread deterioriate more quickly. I would definately recommend the sewing though.

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I've created several name doilies. I use a velvet mat board that can be purchased at any art store. I cut one to the size of the frame. I center the doily on the mat then sew it down. I use a T pin to make the holes. I make sure it's secure all across the top, then I randomly make stitches throughout the rest of the piece so it doesn't sag. I've not stiffened it before I've done it, just blocked it. I add a second mat board to the top, usually a 1 or 2 inch border. That is just thick enough to keep the piece from touching the glass. I usually sign the back of the finished frame also, but I have also signed the back of the main mat board, just in case something happens to the paper.

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