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Where To Find Beeswax For Conditioning Hooks


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Ohhhhhhhhh Jimbo or anyone who does this - could you please tell me where to find beeswax? Is it hiding somewhere in my grocery store or do I need to go somewhere special to find it?? :think:blush

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You might find small blocks of it in places that sell quilting supplies. I think they like to run their needles through it periodically. I have seen small blocks in hardware stores because if you put it on nails or screws it helps to keep the wood you are putting them in from splitting out. You might also find it at a farmer's market from a local bee keeper.

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You should definately find it at the quilting store. As a quilter, I do use beeswax to condition the needle to make it easier to run through the fabric.

 

I am not sure what you want if for, but if you are having trouble with your crochet hooks, it may be from the natural oils on your hands building up on the hook. If this is the case, try washing your hooks with dawn. I do this and it makes my hooks like new again.

 

TLOL,

Toni

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You can also find blocks of bees wax at bead shops. In fact, I saw some not too long ago in the bead section at my local Wal-Mart. Anywhere that offers a sewing dept. would also be an option.

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I think any woodworkers supply store would have beeswax. I have a jar of beeswax that can also be used for finishing salad bowls, so its in a paste form, which I prefer over the solid "bricks", just cause its easier to use.

When using wood hooks, I'd NEVER recommend using water for cleaning. If there are any little cracks or bare wood exposed to water, the grain will swell and you could ruin the hook/needle.

If the hook is really gummed up, MAYBE use a little rubbing alcohol on a rag. Rubbing alcohol does have water (usually 30%) but the alcohol helps with fast evaoration so the water doesn't have much of a chance to soak into the wood.

My hooks are finished with a "General" brand polymerized oil, which I think, leaves a little harder surface than say, Danish Oil, so you can recondition my hooks using the poly oil if you have some handy. That'd probably work even better than the beeswax. But in either case (beeswax or poly oil) do like the Karate Kid...clean cotton rag, rub oil/wax on... and don't just dab it on, RUB it on. Rub hard enough to warm the hook. Then take another clean cotton rag and rub it off... no need to wait for drying. Again, burn some calories while your doing it... warm the hook, get into your aerobic phase. You'll be very pleased with the results.

 

Its possible you'd get different advice from other hook makers, but the above is what's worked for me.

 

Jimbo

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Oh Jeez, I wasn't even thinking about wooden hooks. I only have steel and aluminum and it never dawned on me that you were looking for the wax for wood. Having a small amount of experience working with wood, Jimbo is 1000% correct, you never use water on wood. Jimbo - what are your views on using acetone to "ungum" the hooks. My father had a refinishing business many years ago and he would use acetone to clean the grease/oil residue from some of his pieces.

 

Sorry for the misinformation,

TLOL,

Toni

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Thanks Jimbo,

 

I saw an article recently about conditioning hooks and I got to wondering where to find the beeswax. I appreciate your guidance.

 

>>>When using wood hooks, I'd NEVER recommend using water for cleaning. If there are any little cracks or bare wood exposed to water, the grain will swell and you could ruin the hook/needle.

 

My hooks are finished with a "General" brand polymerized oil, which I think, leaves a little harder surface than say, Danish Oil, so you can recondition my hooks using the poly oil if you have some handy. That'd probably work even better than the beeswax. But in either case (beeswax or poly oil) do like the Karate Kid...clean cotton rag, rub oil/wax on... and don't just dab it on, RUB it on. Rub hard enough to warm the hook. Then take another clean cotton rag and rub it off... no need to wait for drying. Again, burn some calories while your doing it... warm the hook, get into your aerobic phase. You'll be very pleased with the results.

 

Its possible you'd get different advice from other hook makers, but the above is what's worked for me.

 

Jimbo

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Jimbo - what are your views on using acetone to "ungum" the hooks. My father had a refinishing business many years ago and he would use acetone to clean the grease/oil residue from some of his pieces.

 

Toni

 

Acetone is pretty potent stuff. Makes me dizzy. Wouldn't recommend it on plastic hooks since acetone is a plastic solvent. Acetone on metal hooks would likely be just fine. On wood, well I'm sure it would clean the beegeebers outa wood hooks, though it might take a good bit of finish along with the guk. Course you could follow with new finish if that happened, so it might not be a reeeely bad thing to do. Call me weenie, but I'm too chicken to try anything much stronger than Rubbing Alcohol.

 

 

Jimbo

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