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Wild cherries and Cream - 18" doll pattern


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Wild Cherries and Cream – 18” doll pattern :pinterest







I used WW yarn and 5.5 mm hook for the pants and bolero. I used baby weight yarn and 4mm hook for the cream blouse. I would love to see this outfit in every colour of the rainbow.



Legs… DNBO after you make the 2nd leg.


With Cherry Red yarn and 5.5mm hook, ch 16 and join to form a ring


Row 1: dc in every ch. (16)


Row 2: work in dc and increase by 2. (18)


Rows 3 -9: repeat rows 1 and 2.


You should have 24dc by row 8 and row 9 is not an increase row.



Torso Instructions for pants…

Your rows begin and end at Centre Front.


T Row 1: Align the two legs and join with 6 sc, ch 1. Begin working in dc around the leg sections, Put the first dc in the same stitch as the sc join.


It might be helpful here to go to the back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 5 from the Centre Back join on each side.


Dc to your first marker… work [2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc] in the five stitches, work (dc, tr, dc) into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in dc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join. (Ballpark figure - 47 dc)



Row T2-T3: work evenly in dc.


Switch to 5.mm hook if you wish at this point.


Row T4: work evenly in dc


Row T5: work dc but work 1 decrease on each side of back (2 decreases).


Row T6: work a row of sc around an elastic waistband. Join. Break off and tidy all ends.




The Bolero…


With cherry red yarn and 5.5mm hook chain 35 and sc in 6th ch from hook (button loop) form a second button loop later if you wish.


Row 1: *2hdc in next, 1hdc in next* repeat across row. (Ballpark figure: 44hdc)


Row 2: hdc in 7, ch1, hdc in 8, ch 1, hdc in 14, ch1, hdc in 8, ch 1, hdc in 7.


Row 3-5: hdc in ea hdc, [hdc, ch1, hdc] in ea ch 1 space.


Divide out the sleeves…


Row 6: hdc up to and into ch 1 space, skip to next ch 1 space, hdc up to and into ch 1 space, skip to next ch 1 space, hdc to end


Row 7 & 8: sl st in 2, hdc to side seam, work DC across back stitches and then work hdc on other front section but skip the last two stitches.


Break off and tidy all ends. Add buttons.




The Creamy Top…


With baby weight yarn and 4.mm hook chain 30


Row 1: hdc in 2nd chain from hook and across. (29 hdc)


Row 2: hdc evenly across


Row 3: FPhdc in first and last stitches. 2FPhdc in every other stitch. (57 FPhdc)


Row 4: hdc evenly across


Row 5: *hdc in 3, 2 hdc in next* across row (70)


Row 6: hdc in 11, ch1, hdc in 13, ch 1, hdc in 22, ch1, hdc in 13, ch 1, hdc in 11.


Rows 7&8: hdc in every hdc and [hdc, ch1, hdc] in every ch 1 space.


Divide for sleeves


Row 9 & 10: working only over the bodice sections, work 2 rows of hdc evenly. Be sure to start your last back portion at the Centre Back and not at the side seam area.


Row 11: Join all bodice sections… hdc in each hdc for current back section, immediately begin working hdc in each hdc for all bodice front stitches and then do the other back section in hdc as well.


Row 12: ch2 (1st dc) dc in every hdc and in the gaps between sections. (55 dc)


Row 13: hdc across row


Row 14: *hdc, dc, dc V-st, dc, hdc* across the row. Note that you will have 2 HDC together as you work along.


Row 15: ok, get ready to rumble…

Hdc in the first and last stitches…

work a hdc in every dc, work a hdcV-st in every dc V-st and work a hdc decrease over all hdc. Remember that you have pairs of hdc all along the row.


Row 16: *dc in 3, V-st in V-st, dc in 3, skip next* across the row. Break off and tidy all ends.




Sleeves: attach yarn in underarm and work around the sleeve opening. I use sc in the underarm then a couple of hdc next and dc for the top sts for at least 3 rows. You may need to decrease occasionally to make a nicely formed sleeve. Work as many rows of dc as you wish for your sleeves. You could copy the bodice edging if you wished but I found the sleeve didn’t have enough stitches to do it justice.






Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2008


I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.


However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.


Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.


Edited by darski
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