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Ode to Florence and cape - 18" doll

darski

By darski
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darski Grand Master

darski

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Ode to Florence– 18” doll :pinterest
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This outfit was done as a special request but I did it because it had been on my list of “To Do” items anyway. I plan to add the (mandatory) cape but this took a long time as it is and I didn’t want to keep it back any longer.

So here we go…

I used WW white yarn and a 4.5mm hook for this.

We begin at the waistband and then work the skirt down and the bodice up from there.

Note, I begin with a chain 2 as the first DC in a row, if you prefer to ch 3, … works for me so have at it.
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Start: Chain 4, join to form a ring for a button loop. Ch 39, hdc across. (38 hdc)

Row 1: (skirt) ch 2, dc in same st, dc around making 7 more increases including the last stitch.

Row 2: dc around but work increases in 1st and last stitch and *between stitches* for each increase on the previous row. Join with sl st in the 3rd dc of the row.

Row 3: work dc around working increases in each increase from the row below. Work through two layers where they come together at the end.
Rows 4-7: work even in dc. Break off

Find the CB stitch and move one stitch to the right to join yarn in back loop. Ch 2 and work the next dc TBL. Work around in dc to last two, work in remaining loops to make 1 dc in 1st, 2dc in next.

Work even in dc and break off. Tidy yarn ends.
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Bodice:
Go back to the waistband. Attach yarn next to button loop.
Work 3 rows of dc evenly working buttonholes if you plan to use them.

Divide for fronts and back: 10 st for each front and 18 sts for the back.

In each section, work two rows evenly then develop 4 stitches for the shoulders using one row of dc and one of hdc. Remember to leave long tails for sewing shoulders together.

ON the back, I chose to work all the way across the shoulders by using hdc, sc and sl st to from the back…It did provide a nice fit but see what works for you.

Sew your shoulder seams.

Sleeves: Attach the yarn at the back and work 3 rows where you work sc and hdc in the bottom portion and DC along the top. In addition, work sc dec at the armpit and in the dc portion as well if necessary to give a nice shape to the sleeve.

Work 4 more rows of dc evenly.

Cuff: turn and work hdc around working at least 3 increases so that the cuff will fold back over the sleeve. Break off and tidy ends

Neck and collar:

Work a row of sc (or two) around the neck edge to bring it in a bit. Do double decreases in corners as needed.

Work 1FPsc in st, 2 FPsc in next around the neck edge.

Ch 2, work dc in each stitch at the fronts, Tr in every stitch at the back and end with a hdc in the last stitch. Break off and tidy ends. You could work another row of hdc (increasing if necessary) if you want the collar wider.

Pockets: (With smaller hook (3mm)Chain 7…work 6 rows of 6 sc to form each pocket and break off with a long tail to sew to skirt.

Details… I could not find a clock bead to make a Pin on Watch that was quite common in Nursing circles in days of old. I used the little heart bead to simulate the watch.

If you can find a miniatures store, a pair of scissors would be nice in the pockets or attached at the belt.

The Nursing Cap:


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Extra needs – black chenille yarn or any black yarn for RN band.

Chain 6, 2hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc across and 2hdc in last ch, turn

Row 2 -3: 2 hdc in 1st and last st, hdc in others.

Row 4-6: work even in hdc and break off.

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Go back to first row and attach yarn at one edge. Chain 10, work hdc across established rows, ch 10, join to other side of beginning edge.

(this just joins the brim and the back and avoids the need to put in buttons or pins to actually keep the cap together during play)

Upper:
Row 1:Work hdc across making 2 hdc in each ch, 2hdc in first hdc, hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc, 2hdc in each chain.

Work 5 rows even in hdc.

Row 7: (Fold row) work dc across but work 2 dc increases at the point where the cap will turn back. These increases will emphasize the change in direction of the cap from side to front to side again.

Rows 8-9: work hdc across with one increase at each point of increase on previous row that is closest to the front. Secure white. (This read badly before as you make two increases but not 4 as on the last row so I have edited it)
Join black chenille and work one row of had across. Break off black.

Continue for 2 more rows with white hdc. Work an increase in each point for emphasis on the last row. Break off and tidy ends. Add buttons to back and find a method of keeping the hat in place. A small comb would likely work. I had a small (DIY) barrette backing but I don’t think I would use it too often on the hair these dolls have.
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Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2007

A copy of Florence Nightingale’s “Notes on Nursing” can be obtained here:

http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/12439

This book raised and set the standards for nursing.

here is the long-awaited cape pattern as well
The FlorenceCape
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I wrote up the pattern quite some time ago but then it took me a while to finish the actual cape so it got lost in a pile of pattern notes. <my bad>

Using small amount of red and some blue WW yarn and a 4.mm & 5.mm hooks.

This pattern really did create the look of strong shoulders that I wanted in this pattern so it is not the usual cape pattern that I would have tried.

Collar:
With Red and 4.mm hook…
Chain 5, join to form ring, ch 25 and hdc across. Break off red.



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Attach blue in stitch next to button loop and work sc around both sides of the red collar piece. Work 3sc into both “corners” of the end .

Cape section…
Change to 5 mm hook
Row 1: work FPsc in 1, 2FPsc in next around collar piece. (I have 39 sc)

Row 2: hdc around ending with 2hdc in last (40 hdc)

Row 3: hdc around but work 3hdc in stitches 10 and 11 and in stitches 29 and 30.
Use yarn or something to mark these 6 stitches on each side.

Row 4:hdc across but work 2 hdc in all of the marked stitches.

Row 5: (hdc in 5, 2 hdc in next) twice, 2 dc in next 5, 2 hdc in next, hdc in 19, 2 hdc in next, 2 dc in next 5, (2hdc in next, hdc in 5) twice.

Row 6: hdc evenly across

Row 7: Work dc in marked stitch area but otherwise work hdc across

Row 8 to next to last row – hdc evenly across.

Last Row: DC across evenly

You may want your cape longer or shorter so that is why the directions read as they do.

Attach a suitable “uniform” button at neck.

Tidy all ends.

Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2007


I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.

However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.

Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.

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Edited by darski
needed re-saying mistake fixed
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darski Grand Master

darski

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Darski that is the cutest outfit...I just love it.

Are you making career outfits now???

I'd love to see a mail carrier...hint hint :blush

 

That could be cute for Dora.. do your Posties wear Bermuda shorts for the summer uniform?

 

I might be tempted since I will have the navy out for the nursing cape anyway.

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nana Proficient

nana

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oh darski i love it. iwas just thinking the other day how to make the hat, your wounderful. cant wait tot see the cape. i just love your outfits. made a bronco cheer leader. god is looking down on you with all these outfits and sharing them with all of us. god bless you daily. thank you darski.

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diamond Proficient

diamond

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That is AWESOME, Darlene!!! My DD is in nursing school now and would love this. Will have to get her her own AG doll to go with it of course. Thanx for another GREAT pattern. Looks perfect.

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darski Grand Master

darski

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I'm going to have to make this one! Say, do you think you could design a Dorothy or Glinda outfit from the Wizard of Oz?

 

I don't think I could convey that image very well. The "Lo How a Rose Ere Blooming" dress pattern for Dora might translate into Glinda but WW yarn is not good for a gossamer look or for subtle detail such as gingham fabric.

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JoBug Proficient

JoBug

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F-A-T-E, no other way to explain it, I got one of these dolls at goodwill saterday, and being a nurse, I WILL be turning her into me!! Love it, printing RIGHT now!!!

HUGS HUGS HUGS!!

Just thought I would add, she was $3.00!!! Well, she had a hair cut, but this will hide PEFCETLY under her cap!!! OMG< I am on top of the world!!

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darski Grand Master

darski

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OH, one thing I should mention...

 

When I said it took a long time to get this made, I didn't mean that it takes a long time but rather that I had other stuff happening and it took me a week to get it done and written.

 

Does anyone else have that problem about the 2nd sleeve? :rofl

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darski Grand Master

darski

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Original instructions:

Go back to the waistband. Attach yarn next to button loop.

Work 3 rows of dc evenly working buttonholes if you plan to use them.

 

Divide for fronts and back: 10 st for each front and 18 sts for the back.

 

In each section, work two rows evenly then develop 4 stitches for the shoulders using one row of dc and one of hdc. Remember to leave long tails for sewing shoulders together.

 

ON the back, I chose to work all the way across the shoulders by using hdc, sc and sl st to from the back…It did provide a nice fit but see what works for you.

 

Sew your shoulder seams.

<<------------------------------------------------------------->>

I will try to add more info for this part as it is a bit brief.

 

At this point, you have finished the skirt portion and you go back to the original waist area with that button loop and the hdc row. You should have 38 stitches to work over.

 

Bodice Rows 1-3: work evenly in (38) dc.

 

When it is time to work the fronts and the back, I like to take the time to mark my sections so (with whatever marker system you use) mark out the section for Right Front-10 dc, Back - 18 dc, Left Front - 10 dc.

 

Bodice front section:

>>work 2 rows of dc over 10 stitches. Be aware of where your shoulder will be...

>>Work one row with a decrease at CF neck edge then

>>work two more rows with only 4 dc (then hdc) to become the shoulder. Break off with a tail long enough to sew the shoulder seam.

>>work the other Front section in the reverse when you get there

 

Bodice Back:

>> attach yarn and work 2 rows of 18 dc.

>> Work one row with a dc decrease one each side

>> work EITHER ...

four dc, turn.. work 4 hdc, break off and join at the other side to work 4 dc/ hdc break off

 

OR

Work a row of 4 dc, some sc, and some sl st, some more sc, and 4 dc at the end.

 

work one last row with 4 hdc, some sc and some sl st, some more sc then 4 hdc break off.

 

Sew shoulder seams

 

I'm thinking that this is probably less clear than what I started with :sigh.

 

Let me know if this needs more explanation.

 

 

 

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Shell Collaborator

Shell

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oh my gosh! look at how darn cute that is!!!

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