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Crochet gauge


Rashada

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This is a pretty good article on gauge.  

https://www.nickishomemadecrafts.com/measure-adjust-gauge-crochet/

Not using the same yarn or at least a yarn that is the same weight will throw your gauge off.  

A few years ago some of us were making granny squares where a specified number of rounds needed to be a certain size.  I had to use a hook 3 sizes larger than the other person in order to match the size.

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Hi, welcome to the 'ville.  I am not a lefty so I don't know what would be unique to working that way, but I will throw a few general ideas out...

Probably not 'it' since you said 'stitches', but in case you mean your row gauge (stitch height) is too short (you have to make more rows to hit 4" if that is the gauge goal); in other words (example) you are supposed to have 10 rows for 4" in height, but have to make more rows than 10 to get 4".  I have this problem, I make short-ish stitches; Most of the time, for something like a garment or a blanket, I can get away with just making more rows, or an extra pattern repeat, to make the 'thing' long enough to fit me.  Or depending on the situation, you might consider subbing a taller stitch - DC if it calls for HDC for example.

Stitch width is trickier, and the solution would depend on what you are making.  If you are getting too many stitches to hit the width (your stitches are too narrow), for something like a blanket you may be able to add stitch repeats.  If you are not sure of the number of stitches in a repeat, you can create a foundation chain the length that you want a blanket to be and a handful of extra chains, and just work across until you can't fit another repeat in, and work across that number of stitches - later you can pick out the excess chains, it will not unravel.  I do this all the time not due to gauge but 'just in case' I miscounted, so I don't fall short when there is a really long chain.

For something like a garment, if I don't hit width gauge I get my calculator out.  Most garments are multi-sized, and for most patterns I am a 'medium'.  I look at the pattern, and see how many stitches are across a critical area (like the bust), and calculate what happens at MY gauge in that area for my size (can I live with it?) and if my stitches are too narrow, look at what the measurement would be if I followed the directions for the large size instead, or a small size if my stitches were too wide.  

If this is something center-out, like a doily, let me know - there are other tricks working center-out rounds to get something to lie flat.

 

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I am working on scarves for Christmas gifts, and I could not get the proper gauge with the stitches given, no matter the hook size.

So, I adjusted the pattern to fit the gauge I was getting.

What was 136 stitches became 132 stitches, and what was 160 rows became 151.

Take notes of what hook YOU are using, and what stitch and row count gives you the prescribed gauge size. It could be due to your yarn, or your tension as a leftie, or just the alignment of the stars in the Universe.

The greatest chefs in the world will tell you that a recipe is only a guideline, and that a true chef remains flexible enough to alter the recipe as needed to get the desired results, possibly in cooking time, or cooking temperature, or seasoning. Same with crochet.

Depending on your pattern, there may be 'x' number of stitches to create a 'motif,' and some patterns even allow for sizing up or down by telling you that the motif is a multiple of so many stitches. If so, you may ot fit the gauge exactly, no matter what.

But generally, reducing the number of stitches to make your work fit the gauge is okay, so long as you remember (take notes!) what changes you make to fit the pattern.

Best of success to you! Please update this post with your workaround and post pictures of your success!!!

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Another factor in gauge is the length of the shaft of the crochet hook and the size of the throat.

This link has good images of the parts of a crochet hook.  If you have a 4.0 mm crochet hook with a really skinny throat and the stitches are not moving around the shaft, your stitches will be a different size than if you have a thicker throat. 

 

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Mary Pat described a problem I had as a beginner; I used tapered hooks, and was forming stitches right at the tip, at the narrowest end of the taper.  I figured out (finally, no one around to ask, and way before the internet) that if I shoved the stitch beyond the taper onto the shaft, where the stitch is supposed to be formed, that my tension was MUCH better and consistent. 

I am not an inline style hook user, so I suspect this is not as likely an issue because there is no taper, it's all shaft.

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