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How do I go about choosing an appropriate alternative yarn?


LilCurlyBear

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Currently, I am working on a doll using the book 'My Crochet Doll' by Isabelle Kessedjian. I am fairly new to branching out with my crochet skills (I've generally worked on basic granny square blankets or CALs with purchased yarn packs), so not paying particular attention (newb mistake!) I just grabbed some cotton yarns that looked about right from my yarn stash.... worked really hard on making a lovely little doll.... and low and behold the clothes I've made don't fit the doll well at all... cue lots of swearing and frustration, and disappointment and self loathing.

Having now looked properly at the yarns actually used to create the dolls in the book, I've noticed that she uses the same brand of yarn (Bergere de France), but several different weights for the different items of clothing. For the actual doll (and some of the clothes) she uses 'Ideal' yarn (lightweight DK), for the majority of the clothes she uses 'Coton Fifty' (4 ply sport), then there are a few other yarn types thrown in for good measure for things like a fluffy snow coat and teddy bear onsie. The doll and all her clothes are crocheted with a 3mm hook.

Now, not only is the yarn £3-4 for 50g (call me a cheapskate, but I just don't want to pay that much when I need so many different colours & types of yarns), but I'm also having trouble finding the Coton Fifty in the colours I need. So, I would prefer to find a cheaper alternative where I can get the colours I want.

The trouble is: I've tried in the past to purchase yarn based on it being Aran yarn, and same size hook recommended as my pattern... but it just wasn't the same thickness at all. So I'm really unsure as to how I go about finding a lightweight DK yarn that will actually be a good match for the Bergere de France Ideal yarn without having both yarns in hand - which is not possible during lockdown....

Can anyone offer some wisdom? I'm hoping maybe someone out there has used the Bergere de France yarns and knows a good alternative.... any/all help much appreciated :)

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Others may have a different approach but I've run into people who create patterns only to have the "perfect" obscure yarn they've chosen disappear.  In other cases the yarn is far more expensive than yarn I would choose to use for doll projects which are my primary projects.

So my free advice for what it is worth is to do a swatch with the yarn you have on hand to see if you can match the swatch in the book (if they give one) by adjusting the hook.  I've found over the years that my gauge greatly differs from the designer so I'm constantly having to adjust hook size to get a project to fit.  I also often work with patterns which aren't designed quite for the doll I'm making clothes for so I've learned to play with yarn and hook to make it work.

If using a different hook size doesn't work then perhaps try a different yarn in your stash to see if it will work.

Another  suggestion is to try the clothes on as you are making them.  For instance when I'm making a shirt or dress I always try it one once the piece has been divided for the arm holes.  This tells me immediately if the outfit is too small/large.  I can then determine if a larger hook will work or if I need a heavier weight yarn.  With bottoms I will try first when the waist is completed and then if making pants when you split to make the legs or with a skirt I check to make sure the stomach fits.  I have a few dolls I make clothes for that have protruding stomachs and if I don't check the outfits can be too tight and I have to pull the outfits out and fix.

Edited by Bailey4
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The thing is, 'yarn weight x' is a range of wraps per inch, which is why you are seeing 1 brand of DK weight different from the other; sometimes you will even see differences with different colors of the same brand.  WPI from a US Knit & Crochet "standards" site 

So let me get this straight; the book has patterns for the doll, and clothes for the doll, and you have made the doll per the book's pattern with x yarn totally doesn't match the book's measurements for the doll?  Umm...I'm trying to think of why making clothes from the book in yarn of the same 'wrong' weight that you made the doll in, and the same wrong gauge, wouldn't work to fit the doll*.  Like Bailey4 said, 'swatch'.  Except now you will need to create your own gauge goal -

1) take the yarn & hook you used to make the doll, and make a swatch a little bigger than 4", and measure stitches in both directions across 4" in the interior (reason, edge stitches can be wonky). 

2) Count the number of stitches, even if it ends up being "x and 1/2 stitches' per 4". 

3) Now find some of the same weight yarn in your stash and swatch, changing hooks up and down as necessary, to match as close as possible to the doll body swatch.

4) As Bailey4 also said, 'try on as you go'.  Unlike for fitting a human, 1 stitch might make a big difference fitting a doll.  Don't be afraid to rip out and tweak, this goes with the territory especially for something that has to fit.

*EDIT - OP, I just re-read your post and realized I didn't 'get this straight', my apologies.  What I said would apply to the outfits using the same yarn weight and pattern gauge as the doll was designed in.  The others aren't going to work.

 

 

Edited by Granny Square
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Sometimes when you make the clothing with a lighter or heavier weight it just fits a little differently.  That's why you have to play with the yarn.  When you've made the doll or in my case you are working with a different model doll than than the one the pattern was designed for your doll isn't going to have it's arms, legs and other extremities in exactly the same place as the person who made the original doll.  I've had this challenge when making clothes for animal amigurumi's I never actually crocheted a doll.  If you don't match exactly you sometimes have to adapt your clothing to fit the doll you have not the doll the designer worked with originally.  You can almost always make it work but you have to watch how the garment is coming together as you make it so you can make those adjustments as needed.  

For instance I occasionally have to add increases to the underarms to make the arm holes bigger because do to the pattern, my yarn, my gauge, or the doll being a different size (I've had all these issues) the arms aren't big enough to be able to dress and undress the doll easily enough for small hands.  It isn't hard to do, but if I wait until the garment is done to try it one I'm going to have to pull out both arms and that is annoying and frustrating.

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Many thanks all for responses and advice, this all makes sense. I have managed to make a top and trousers that fit! I kept trying them on my doll as I went, and adjusted the patterns also (I didn't need anywhere near as many rows). I'm not 100% pleased with them (they kind of bulk up around the waist, and don't fit well round the shoulders), but I think this will be as many of you have said, a bit of trial and error, and some practice with hook sizes and yarns.

Unfortunately the book gives no indication of gauge whatsoever, or even measurements for the doll, so I am very much cheesing it!

It will be a good learning experience for me for sure :)

Excuse her weird hair, I ran out of yarn and they don't sell that one anymore, so I'm going to have to pull it all out and add a second pink into the mix so I don't waste the original yarn.

I have lots of ideas for cute little outfits for her, and I'm not making her for anyone in particular, so I think I'll just pull her out every now and then when I fancy it, she can be a little bit of relaxation and fun.

IMG_20200518_131937.jpg

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