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undinen

Help with beret pattern

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Hi all!

I have been crocheting for ~8 years but only amigurumis with single crochet, and after Swedish patterns (I am Swede). I decided that now I will try some slight more advanced patterns, even in English, with double crochets. I found this beginner's pattern but I have started over about 4 times already. I don't get it. The pattern can be found here: https://hannicraft.blogspot.com/2013/03/simple-beret-crochet-pattern.html

I have attached how my work looks like.

I am now working on round 3 and it really does not look like the beret on the photo in the pattern. What I do not get is:

  1. The beret on the pattern has 12 sections, they are very clear.  They are not seen on my beret.. I simply don't understand why. I have crocheted according to what it says: R3: 3 chain stiches and then make 1 double crochet in the same stich. Then continuing with 1 double crochet in next stich. Then 1 chain.  Then 2 double crochets in next stich, then one double crochet in next stich + 1 chain. Repeating that that 11 times starting with the 2 double crochets. 
  2. My work is all bubbly at the edges. I suppose it's since I am increasing the work, making two double crochets (dc's) in one stich here and there according to the pattern. But when I see the finished beret on the photos, it does not look bubbly at all; it's flat. I have never crocheted like this before, so I do not know if it's normal and will even out when it's finished..?

I am using hook 3.5. Also tested with hook 4, no difference. I do not know yarn size, I just found a ball of this yarn at home. 

Anyone know what's wrong..?

Thank you ❤️ 

- Emelie

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Edited by undinen

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Hi, welcome to the 'ville!

I'm sure you know everybody had different stitch tensions, including designers, and sometimes you have to use a bigger or smaller hook to get something the right distance across if you're working back and forth.  

The thing is, it's hard to correct one's stitch height proportion-- or I find it to be, but maybe I'm just old and set in my ways 😉  Doris Chan wrote about it here  .

Where stitch height comes into play is working in the round, from the center out like your hat.  There is a specific geometric proportion to get a flat circle -- pi times diameter=circumference.  In crochet, if your stitches are too tall, your circumference will be too small and the piece will cup.  If your stitches are too short, your diameter is too short and it will ruffle as yours is doing (don't feel bad, I make short stitches and have this trouble too).

There is a generic 'formula' for making flat circles (I'm using US terms here)  SC=6, HDC=8 or 9, DC=12.  Those numbers are the number of stitches in the first round, and the number you increase by in each round - so for DC it would be 12, 24, 36, 48, etc.

Your pattern violates that rule at the very beginning, it starts with 24, and then increases by 12.  I hate to say this, but I'd start over because the 12 extra stitches is causing the ruffle, or at least part of it.

Have you ever used an adjustable ring, sometimes called magic ring?  This is another trick that can help you when working in the round.  Your pattern starts with a 6 ring of chains, which is OK, but if you have ruffling or cupping issues an adjustable ring can help to reduce or increase your diameter a little bit to help lessen either problem.

I'd adjust the beginning of this pattern thus:

Round zero:  Adjustable ring: make a slip knot, as if you were going to put a loop on your hook, but don't close it - leave it open about 2cm, with the tail end on the left side.  You will be working the stitches over both the ring and the tail.  The first chain will be a little awkward.  Chain 3, make 11 DC in ring.  (this will make the center solid, but it needs to start with 12 so it can't have chain spaces)  Now, or later if you want, you can pull the tail tighter - tighter will reduce ruffing.  I wait a while to weave the tail in, so I can make adjustments, but either way you do need to weave it in very securely.

Round 1: Ch4  (acts as dc + ch1) , *DC in next DC, ch1 11 times, join to 3rd chain of initial chain 4.  You have 12 DCs and 12 chains, 24 total. 

From this point, follow the pattern from round 2 onward.  We've removed 12 stitches from the circumference of your hat.  One way to see if 12 stitches is enough - 'pinch' 12 stitches at the perimeter of the piece you have now - does it look roughly flat?

You may also need to start reducing the stitch count of the beret 1 row earlier, but if you are making shortish stitches, perhaps not.

~~~~ Or another way to achieve the circumference is to follow the pattern as is but use a taller stitch, which increases the diameter but not the circumference.  The pattern may work as-is with trebles, but again the point where you decrease might need to change.

 

 

 

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