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Need help understanding Pattern


Lucien

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So the lace is based on DC.  Usually if you were working a Solid border of a plain stitch across the edge of DC, you'd make 2 stitches: 1 into the side (post) of the DC, and 1 into the place where the top of one row and the bottom of the next meet, if that makes sense.  So the side of a DC has  2 'spots' to make a stitch in, I'll call them 'post' and 'meet' for short, and just mention the SCs since you know there are 4 chains between SCs.

Skip the next post and meet, make the first SC into the next post.  Skip the next meet and post, make the next SC into the next meet.  Repeat.  I think it told you how many chain loops you should have across the side of each square, right, so you can double check that it's coming out correctly?

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Tore it all out, all five panels. I started my first attempt at baby booties in December 2017. I finished  the first bootie December 9, 2018. The second bootie was finished today--December 30, 2018. I tried posting to the correct forum but it was highlighted in gray and would not let me create a New Topic.

Lucie

iweararedhat.blogspot.com

 

30 December 2018_My Booties From Hell.jpg

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Ok, all 5 panels are 48.5", good. Whew. The important thing is each panel side should have the same amount of loops, so they match up when you connect them.

Now let's re-do all the math.  The original squares were supposed to by 5.5" square, and have 10 loops in the side.

Not even gonna get the calculator out here, I'd go with a loop every half inch, so you don't have to make your own paper ruler. So 2 loops for every inch, times 48 inches is 96 loops, plus 1 for the last half inch=97 loops along each side.

BUT, if your gauge is the issue...you could space them further apart if you want, maybe keep with the 3/4" if you think it looks better.  just keep all the loop counts the same for all the strips.

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20 minutes ago, Granny Square said:

Still thinking about this...Just in case there's a row of squares I can't see in your photo...

3 lace, 3 solid = 3x8=24" + 3x6=18"=42"

3 solid, 3 lace = 3x6=18" + 3x8=24"=42"

Hopefully this is the case.

edit - if so.....

If there are 3 of each type of square in each panel (so 42" for each strip)...I'm thinking it's odd to have 10 loops in the 6" side and 10 loops also in the 8 inch side.  One would be scrunched, the other spread out.

1 of each square, as a 'set', would be 14".  They wanted 10 loops in each square, so 20 loops over 2 squares...14" divided by 20 loops is .7 of an inch.  So, that paper ruler every 3/4 of an inch is going to work, but you're going to have some of the stitches spread a little bit farther here and there since you're measuring the nearest stitch, if there's a tie you'll want to pick the further stitch most times.

 

OK, I just re-measured my squares and they are:

Afghan stitch squares are 6 1/2 x 6 1/2

Lace squares are 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 wide

Length of all five panels wound up 48 1/2", Width = 6 1/2 "

On the front cover of instructions the lace squares look longer so I went with it. If there is a mountain to climb, I will find it.

Hopefully my tension will improve...

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Hi Bgs, thanks for catching it, I was a little slow at realizing that and just focused on the .8" math. I didn't even think to look at the pattern for the square measurement (DUH), but it makes sense that the pattern said to make the same number of loops in each square, which I thought was goofy if they were so different in size.

That also means all the calculations are WAY off - ahhhh!

 

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Granny Square I have been trying to follow along and was just getting ready to point out that the pattern says squares are approximately 5 1/2 by 5 1/2 inches and looking at the layout photo it shows solid and lace squares being the same size Lucien said her one set of squares were 6x6 but the lace ones were 6x8 which is 2 inches too long and as your math shows the panels are not going to be the same length.

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Still thinking about this...Just in case there's a row of squares I can't see in your photo...

3 lace, 3 solid = 3x8=24" + 3x6=18"=42"

3 solid, 3 lace = 3x6=18" + 3x8=24"=42"

Hopefully this is the case.

edit - if so.....

If there are 3 of each type of square in each panel (so 42" for each strip)...I'm thinking it's odd to have 10 loops in the 6" side and 10 loops also in the 8 inch side.  One would be scrunched, the other spread out.

1 of each square, as a 'set', would be 14".  They wanted 10 loops in each square, so 20 loops over 2 squares...14" divided by 20 loops is .7 of an inch.  So, that paper ruler every 3/4 of an inch is going to work, but you're going to have some of the stitches spread a little bit farther here and there since you're measuring the nearest stitch, if there's a tie you'll want to pick the further stitch most times.

 

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Wait, scratch all that, I just ran with the last few words of your post to work with 0.8" calculations.

As soon as I hit the 'post' button it sank in that you  have 2 mismatched size of 'squares', so you can't use 1 measure for both.  Are they supposed to be different?  Are all your strips the same length?  They'd need to be for this to work.

I'm seeing 5 squares in each strip in your second post, unless more is hidden at the far side.  So, 1 strip is 3 lace, 2 solid the other is 3 solid, 2 lace

3 lace, 2 solid = 3x8=24" + 2x6=12"=36"

3 solid, 2 lace = 3x6=18" + 2x8=16" =34"

...does this seem right?  

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Sorry Hubby was ill, glad he's OK!  

Here's how my brain works:   1/8 of an inch is pretty tiny, I'd go to the nearest eighth of an inch-you are going to pick the nearest stitch, so it's not going to be rocket-design accurate.  1/8 of an inch is 0.125.

3/4 of an inch is .75 inches--pretty close to 0.8 (only .05 less than 0.8).  3/4 is the same as 6/8.  

So, testing 7/8 of an inch -- .75 of an inch, plus  .125 = .875 (is .075 bigger than .8--so farther "off" than using 3/4 inch)

I'd mark every 3 quarters of an inch on a piece of scrap paper to make a "ruler" for the length of your square, and mark the closest stitch to your marks.  You're going to have gaps that are a smidge closer together or farther apart than others, just try to keep it as even as you can.

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On 10/10/2018 at 3:48 PM, Granny Square said:

Oh darn, sorry.  ... Alternately you can measure the lace side in inches and divide by 10,  work out the inches fraction and mark the distance on a piece of scrap paper and use the marked paper as a "1 unit measure" to put stitch markers into the lace.  Since it's into the nearest stitch, doesn't need to be NASA accurate.

 

I spent 4 days in hospital to stay with my husband, all is well and he is home. My lace squares are a little longer (6" wide x 8 long") than my afghan squares (6" x 6"). 8 divided by 10 = .8 OMG I can't figure out .8 of an inch?  Don't know whether to laugh or cry!

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Oh darn, sorry.  ... Alternately you can measure the lace side in inches and divide by 10,  work out the inches fraction and mark the distance on a piece of scrap paper and use the marked paper as a "1 unit measure" to put stitch markers into the lace.  Since it's into the nearest stitch, doesn't need to be NASA accurate.

 

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I just peered closer at the instructions of the lace square, and it's talking about skipping SCs at the edge, although there are also DCs at the edge.  

I think the important part is to have 10 loops (10 points of connection) across both the lace square and the afghan stitch square, as the pattern says, so all the sides match up when you get to the next connection step.  Do you have something you can use for a stitch marker - bobby pins, sewing (straight) pins, bent safety pins, even 10 short lengths of contrasting color yarn to 'eyeball' and temporarily mark 10 evenly spaced spots?

When I have to divide a measurement by odd numbers, I usually 'go metric' because it's SO much easier in cm/mm than eighths of an inch or whatever.  Do you have a ruler that's marked in metric?  Measure the lace edge in centimeters.  Now divide that by 10 (convenient that 10 is metric!).  Example, if the side is 24 centimeters, divided by 10 is 2.4 cm.  Mark the stitches closest to those 10 spots 2.4cm apart (or whatever you measured and calculated).   On the next lace square, it will be easier as you can copy the placement position from the first lace square.

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1 hour ago, Granny Square said:

Looks like the right starting place :yes 

Are you doing a SC into the sides?  It looks a little taller like a DC,  not a big deal to have bigger loops but just pointing it out...

All directions except the edging call for dc; I didn't even notice the edging called for sc. I even had to Google how to do a single crochet. Now I need to know where in insert my hook in the Lace Square. The directions say in every 1 1/2 row?

 

 

DSCF0282.JPG

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30 minutes ago, Granny Square said:

Looks like the right starting place :yes 

Are you doing a SC into the sides?  It looks a little taller like a DC,  not a big deal to have bigger loops but just pointing it out...

OMG, I think you're right! I will tear it out and go again...thank you!

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20 hours ago, Granny Square said:

I just edited my post because I was forgetting which ways the bars went in Tunisan Simple Stitch (vertical).  If you followed he pattern, it tells you to work this in strips, so if this is the bottom square, I suspect the tail is where you started.  But, the shell stitches (lacy part) look like they are made in the direction toward the 'bottom square'...so maybe the bottom is really the top?  (I may be looking at this w wrong) But it doesn't matter if you start the chain loops top to bottom or bottom to top.

The chain-4 loops need to be made along the long sides of the strip of squares, so for this strip you'd want to start where I put the green arrow and go all along to the end of the long line of connected squares on that side, and then starting where the yarn tail is, along that long side as well. 

Untitled2.jpg

Granny, thanks. This is where I am at now (below image):

DSCF0280.JPG

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I just edited my post because I was forgetting which ways the bars went in Tunisan Simple Stitch (vertical).  If you followed he pattern, it tells you to work this in strips, so if this is the bottom square, I suspect the tail is where you started.  But, the shell stitches (lacy part) look like they are made in the direction toward the 'bottom square'...so maybe the bottom is really the top?  (I may be looking at this w wrong) But it doesn't matter if you start the chain loops top to bottom or bottom to top.

The chain-4 loops need to be made along the long sides of the strip of squares, so for this strip you'd want to start where I put the green arrow and go all along to the end of the long line of connected squares on that side, and then starting where the yarn tail is, along that long side as well. 

Untitled2.jpg

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This is the bottom of the first panel. Is the red arrow what you mean by the starting point of the bottom square of this panel? And when I insert the hook here should I already have a slip knot on my hook?

 

DSCF0277.JPG

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To answer your last question first - it wanted you to put a stitch marker in the very starting point of the bottom square of each panel, not the finishing-off-spot.  The starting spot of your first square will be the very bottom edge of the blanket, which is where you want to start the edging loops.  The chain row of the first square in other words.

Use your best judgement for that spot since you didn't mark it -- the point is to be consistent with 'that spot' in all the panels so everything lines up when you put them together.  It tells you to anchor the loops by skipping 2, then 1, then 2, then 1 and so on stitches - if you have to fudge and at the end of a panel modify your skipping pattern, no one but you will know (and you might not find the spot later, that happens with me a lot)- just do what you need to, to get the same number of loops on each side of each panel so the connections will line up. 

 

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Here is a image of my slip knot on crochet hook. I am not sure where "with loop on hook, sl st in first row of afghan st at lower corner of panel" I am supposed to insert needle and bring up loop?DSCF0269.JPG.f17352e13b9e93243a85ebe34fdd7165.JPG

13 hours ago, Granny Square said:

On page 2 of the instructions, it says to make a round of chain loops all around each panel - which I see on your photo.  That was what I was referring to in my first sentence--I assumed you had already done that, and that you were questioning the joining part on page 3 - my bad. 

Yes, your interpretation is correct, you need to put chain loops around all the panels first (before joining), and that's what it is describing on page 2 (there's at least 1 other way to join yarn, but what they described works fine; by habit I would have inserted the hook in the corner, pulled up a loop and then pulled the tail thru, but it  doesn't matter).  Connect the yarn at the corner as it says and make chain loops all around - skipping alternating 2 rows, then 1 row along the sides...which is another way of saying skipping 1.5 rows, as it describes the same thing later (oddly written pattern IMO)

Did that help?  Sorry If I confused you.

 

When I finished the last square of each panel I did a chain, pulled up a loop and then pulled the tail thru--is that what you mean?

 

 

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I never even noticed the Joining Panels instructions, thanks so much for pointing this out. And, I love, love, love your red highlight, much appreciated. My youngest of two brothers works with me via telephone when I am having hardware problems with my computer. I have a habit of reading and following one instruction at a time; he tells me to read ALL instructions before doing anything. My problem is by doing that I have forgotten what the earlier instructions were about. He is very patient, talking to me can be like talking to a wall (lol). Oh, my eldest of two brothers tells me the same, "read everything first".

Just curious, at the beginning of instructions...I didn't understand how to do this, so I just skipped it: "Note: Mark beginning of each panel for lower edge."

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