help with joining squares in an "X"

[reefefered]

I need help with this pattern posted free on this site  https://www.free-crochet.com/detail.html?code=FC00415&source=pntrsta

I have trouble with the joining of the squares instructions.  I have just started this pattern, and I have made 2 motifs. 

Can't seem to understand how to join them and get the  "X's"  right.  The square is easy, but having problems joining the squares.  

I don't know if you finish off both squares, or work to the joining rnd on rnd 11 and then try to join it them.  Either way I have tried both ways and it seems impossible even though I know there is a way...but how?

https://www.free-crochet.com/detail.html?code=FC00415&source=pntrsta

 

it's a free pattern

 

[reefefered]

Going to try again with ch 7 like you said first time.   I think I went wrong was that I did the last rnd 11 that was a shell p rnd.  after reading your instructions again, I see I didn't omit rnd 11.  

[reefefered]

thanks for the thumbs up

[Granny Square]

Oh my, that's a huge coverlet, and it came out beautifully!  As well as the doll dress.  She has such an interesting expression!

[bgs]

Its beautiful.  You did a good job on it.

[reefefered]

finally got this done...thanks for your help!

[reefefered]

thread gown I made

 

[Granny Square]

No worries!  It's a pretty pattern and I wanted to help you to be happy with it and get the Xs to look like the picture ;) .

 

[reefefered]

thanks for being patient.  

[reefefered]

ok...think I get it now.  I will try again as you suggest for rnd 11...not that shell p stuff.  I think it will look better your way.

[Granny Square]

Chain 7 on round 11 would be the equivalent chain 3 up (= one DC height typically), 1 "over" (=connection point), 3 down (=one DC height)...3+1+3=7.  The first square, or other squares' sides not to be connected 'yet' is just 7 chains, but all the rest of the square's connecting edges would be: 3 chains to reach to the next square, connecting stitch to the next square (I'm counting this slst or sc as the equivalent count to the middle chain), 3 chains back down to the square you're finishing. 

If you chained 4, connected, chained 4, that's equivalent to 9 chains not 7, like making the X with triples not doubles, so would be a really big X. The shorter option of ch2, connect, ch2, and then only 5 chains on the round 11 parts would work.  (you need an odd number- x plus 1 connecting stitch plus x).  However this won't result in fewer loops, just shorter ones, therefore shorter Xs.  Whatever you pick, the number of chains for round 11, and for the chain-connect-chain sides should correspond.

I'm not quite understanding your thoughts on the sc all around before the connecting loops (unless you just like the look of 'finishing off' the open meshes from the round below), but it wouldn't make a difference in the x size.  It would make a tiny bit of difference if you opted to SC instead of slst at the connection point to the next square, and when you end the second chain back to the first square however. 

Every square must have at least 1 side with round 11 loops--the only exception would be if you connected squares and left a complete square's worth of hole in the middle.  All the squares around that hole would have to have round 11 loops facing the hole--only the square you'd be filling the hole with wouldn't need a round 11 (but that sounds really fiddly, doesn't it?).  

 

 

[reefefered]

yes, I would always have to use this same method of joining to keep them looking the same.  I am also thinking leave off rnd 11 and do a sc around then do the ch 2 and slst in adj loop on 2nd motif.  Just thinking about it is all.  That would make the joining not so wide, and less loops too.  Not sure as to what I want to do.  Would like to have the X"S more pronounced, but I may have to be happy with however I can get it to turn out.  Still thinking about it though.  was thinking with last row sc, then with the ch 2 that maybe the x would be noticable.

[reefefered]

what I did was to finsh round 11 on both motifs according to directions then connected them by ch 2 and slst into corresponding loop.  I tried ch 7 but when I got it connected together, then it looked to be about 3 inches wide between the two motifs.   you know ch 4, sl st to corresponding loop on 2nd motif....was too wide between them.  I may have done it wrong.  I wroted down your instructions with the row 1 and 2 and followed that.  Went together great, but just too wide between them.  So, I didn't add any extra ch loops around....just fished them both off and used ch2 and slst into corresponding loop on 2nd motif.  Does look better, but I still think it is a little wide, and hard to see "X'S".  Still faster than trying to use the pattern.

[Granny Square]

Another thing that just occurred to me, and this is imagining this in my head and may not hold up in real life...using the third row you may have to pay attention to how you work it, might have to always be the same way to look consistent.  As in, you may always have to work that third row either top to bottom or left to right.  With the 2 rows >< there's no direction, but what I'm imagining is it might look odd combining ><> for 1 set of block and <>< for the next set right below them....

...or maybe just a crocheter would notice.  Sometimes I 'fudge' something and think it sticks out like a sore thumb, and then a couple of days later I can't find the fudge...

 

[Granny Square]

That looks great!  Definitely better than that loopy ramen-look of the pattern directions.

But...I think you did it a bit differently than I was trying to describe (but it still looks nice), and it may have been my explanation at fault.  Let's say the first motif is at the left, the second is on the right.  It looks like you went all the way around the second motif in chain loops, then turned and made another 1 side of loops to connect to the first--so instead of the connection looking like ><, it looks like ><> (sorta). 

What I was trying to describe, and would be more typical (and a little less work), would be for you to have finished the second motif's loop for 3 sides, then on the last side finish the loop and connected to the first motif's loop at the same time (so half a loop, chain into the first motif's loop, and half a loop back to the second motif, repeat).  You'd do the same for the third motif--let's place it clockwise at the bottom left--you'd make loops and 3 sides and the last loops would be simultaneously be constructed and attached to the bottom of the second motif .  Then for the fourth motif, you'd finish 2 sides in loops,the next side on the fourth motif would by completed while simultaneously attaching to the left side of the third motif , and the last side's loops of the fourth motif would be completed while simultaneously attaching to the bottom of the first motif.

Like I said, it looks fine the way you did it, and the only thing I can think of is you may or may not need to get creative with how the 4 corners come together .  Since you are connecting in 3 rows, not 2...the center may end up a little open mesh?  Or at least a bit different than the pic where 4 loops met in the middle.

[reefefered]

I decided to try your idea, and the space between the squares was too large.  I used less ch stitches and this is how it turned out.  Not like the pattern much, but it is faster and easier.  Think I will use this idea.  thanks again

 

[Granny Square]

Oops...no biggie.  In a nutshell I said I thought the pattern was hosed up for a variety of reasons, it had you making loops all over the place for no reason and the result would not look like the pattern photo.

So this is basically (mostly) a filet pattern, based on 3 stitch meshes (ch-ch-dc or 3 dc).  The pattern photo did not look at all like the Xs were made from chain loops for every line of the X, and I described an alternative that should work, and look like the photo:

In the first motif, make the last row chain 7, skip 2 stitches, sc or slst in the next stitch, repeat

In the last row of all the next motifs, chain 3, slst or sc (whichever looks more X-like, probably slst) into the 4th (middle) chain of the corresponding chain loop of the first motif, chain 3, skip 2 stitches and slst or sc into the next stitch of the motif you are finishing.  Repeat.  The connection of the loops should look like >< once it's blocked.

I didn't say this in the earlier posts, but look at the photo at the corner - same thing but 4 loops eventually come together, so that 1 center connection spot will be used for 4 motifs.  The pattern puts chains in there, don't know if they are necessary--you might have to see what looks best; maybe it gives you more room to put the 4 connections in there.

The reason for 7 chains on the first motif- 3 chains each for 2 DCs, and the middle chain to connect to.  This matches chain 3, connecting stitch, chain 3 on the other motifs.

 

[reefefered]

Oooh, and I deleted that one....so sorry.  This is what I have so far in the pic.  I was wondering if there would be another way of joing them to make it look like an "X".  Was thinking slip st, but I would have a lot of threads to weave in too  I just don't think this is right in my pic.  What do you think?

 

[Granny Square]

I didn't notice you had 2 posts - I answered your other one