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ask for crochet diagram


moehi

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Would you like some suggestions for shawl patterns that include diagrams? For example Elise http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/elise-shawl

 

I can suggest others if you are interested. Some are free, some would be for sale for a small sum.

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It is a pretty color!  

 

If you are most concerned about the softness and drape of the fabric, perhaps you can try gently washing the bit you've done already in liquid fabric softener, or even hair conditioner and see if that helps a little?  The only other thing that I can think of that helps to make the fabric drape better is using a loose gauge, but it looks like your piece is already fairly loose.

 

I don't have any suggestions of what you might mix it with, except that it would probably be a good idea to stick with cotton.  And be careful, cotton dyes sometimes 'bleed' if a cotton project has multiple colors. 

 

Good luck!

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So, I again! I bought this thin cotton on ebay. (Filetcrochet) and dyed it with Procion MX. But I feel, its a bit too dull and lifeless. Does anyone could take an idea with which yarn I can mix it, that the triangular scarf becomes is a little softer touch? It must be a cotton mixed yarn I think, right? What you are think, ladies?

Thank you very much

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/VhATfatScgbcY1Z6bOtk-NMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

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Re: your question in post 9 - the pattern should have said 'skip next 3 DC' or 'skip next stitches' , because it's not 1 stitch that must be skipped.  In your original pattern, from row 2 on, for all stitches except those made in the first stitch and the last stitch of the row, all stitches will be made into chain spaces: you will be making more 

*ch2, dc in next chain space* repeats on each side of the hill, and when you reach the spine, you make another spine (shell).  That's it!  In the written pattern, rows 3-6 are just telling you to repeat *ch2, dc in next chain space* an increased number of times.

 

For another similar charted pattern, here is one that is close to the pattern you started with, it has 3 chains between stitch groups, not 2

 

http://www.garnstudio.com/lang/us/pattern.php?id=6695〈=us

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Or one of these http://gosyo.co.jp/english/pattern/eHTML/shawl_stole.html

  Mouse over the small photo to see a bigger photo, and click on it to see the complete diageammed pattern.   If it says K below the photo it is knitted, or C if it is crocheted.    And at the top of page there is a little box that says Pattern Club back to top, which will take you to a page from which you can see many more patterns.  

24-25-21 in the second row i think is most like the one you started with.  http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/24-25-21-shawl/people  is the project page on Ravelry.  

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If I proceed according to the writed manual, it looks wrong. If I proceed to Grannys photo, all looks well. I can not understand a korrelation  between instructions with the picture

For Example:
Row 2:
(.....until second ch2), then: skip st and dc in next ch-2 space....which stitch I have to skip?

I think, I go back  to my familiar knitting  :think

:D

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Here are the first 2 rows, I hope this is close enough to a diagram.  Row 1 is grey, row 2 pink.  I hope this helps - you are going to keep going up one side and down the other.  The shells and V-stitches will stay in the center spine and the bottom edges, the single DCs will increase on each row of the side of the hill.

 

The first chain of the initial chain 4 is where all the stitches of the first round are made, the other 3 chains take the place of the first DC of the shell.  So where I marked 'top of beginning ch', I meant the top of the 3rd chains that = the first DC.

post-13625-0-03532900-1435269895_thumb.jpg

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If you know how to read a diagram, I suggest you try to diagram the beginning couple of rows yourself.  I'm not trying to be dismissive, but it might help the light bulb go off (so to speak) if you do it yourself.  Just read and chart it stitch by stitch.  I do this occasionally when a written pattern doesn't seem to be coming out right, or for a lengthy, complex doily round repeat I can't seem to keep in my head.  Also, I think it would violate copyright if we diagrammed it for you --  example translating a written pattern into another language violates copyright.

 

You are starting with the 'spine' at the center top (long edge).  The shawl grows from there.  It starts with the spine and side edging, then starts adding chain spaces between the spine and the edge stitches on each row.  You just keep going, adding chain spaces on each side, until it's as big as you want it.

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Hi Moehi, welcome to the ville :hook

 

If you are used to diagrams, it is an adjustment to work with written patterns.  I find it really helps me to have a visual aid to understanding the construction.  You might also want to look on the Ravelry site and look at people's projects of the pattern http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/speedy-shawl/people  You can open up each project to see more photos; often people post closeups where you can see the stitches pretty clearly.  Also there are project notes and forum posts, which sometimes have helpful information.  

 

Do let us know how it goes!  

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It's hard to make a diagram in here, but sometimes writing it out helps.  It looks you're starting with a cluster at the bottom.  Then you'll be adding lattice work, shell, lattice work to widen the rows.

 

ch 4, then do all of the following in the 4th chain from the hook.  (Note: the 4 chains are a ch + first dc.)

dc, dc, ch 2, dc, dc, ch 2, dc, dc, ch 2, dc, dc, dc

 

The pattern is 3 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc for the foundation.

 

Ch 3, turn.  (Note: the ch 3 is your first dc)

dc, dc in the first stitch (same stitch as the ch 3); ch 2; dc in ch-2 space; ch 2; dc, dc, dc, ch 2, dc, dc, dc in ch-2 space; ch 2; dc in ch-2 space; dc, dc, dc in last stitch (top of the first ch 4)

 

The pattern is 3 dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, shell, ch 2, dc, ch 2, 3 dc for row 1.

 

 

Crocheting into the ch 2 spaces creates the lattice work on both sides of the shells.  It also increases your stitch count every row.

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