Jump to content
  • 0

changing colors of yarn


snowbear

Question

How to change colors in a crochet piece. So you don't have knots in your work. Also, how to change colors at the end of row. without tying your yarn in a knot and cutting it to change colors. HELP PLEASE!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

I don't think you can get away without knots if you are changing colors.  However when you do have to knot, you should always use the square knot.  Twisting the yarn to form a knot (like when you knot a piece of sewing thread) makes a bulky knot and harder to weave in the ends.  If you are attaching the same color yarn, you can use the Russian Join method.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Common Types of Joins

 

Admitting to a certain amount of AR, I do NOT KNOT.  Nor do I "seal" knots with fabric glue. If others find these useful and they are satisfied with the result, that is fine, just not for me. 

 

Assuming you have read your pattern thru completely before starting (hint, hint) you may want to use consider which join will work best for your project while making your pattern swatch (often not the gauge swatch)

 

The SPIT or often more politely referred to as a FELTED join - is dependant on its fiber content to determine if it is useful for your project in hand.  Internet myth/assetations  to the contrary.  Neither Superwash (wool treated so it can be machine washed without major shrinkage) or Plant based fibers, (cotton, hemp, linen, etc) or man made (acrylic, microfibers, etc) will felt.  They may LOOK felted but first time they get stressed (normal wearing or washing) they will come undone.  -

    I am most likely to use the spit method only when working with Sheeps wool and only for joining the same color.

 

Sometimes, if only because it is what I was taught by the "Cookie Lady" - a neighbor who taught me to crochet AND who made the world's best cookies of many many varieties....

 

Is layering or feathering.  When you still have a yard left (just to make the handling easier)  Separate the plys for 6-8 inches by untwisting them.  Now "feather" each ply to a different length.  It helps if you can pull out the fibers a bit at a time so each ply ends in a point.  

Repeat for the new yarn to be joined.   Now match up each ply with the compliementary size, (longest with shortest) by over lapping and twisting each ply together.  When all there are twisted, twist all together.  This really take longer to type than to do for most 3 ply yarns.

  This will work for most yarns, and even for threads. 

 

Last but not least, the second method I learned (about age 6) and the one I have found the RUSSIAN Join to be the most useful.  - It will generally work with any type of yarn, with a bit of care and an extra step or two, it is possible to place the join rather percisely and this is especially important when color changes are involved.  

 

You may have noticed in addition to NO KNOTS, there are also NO ENDS TO WEAVE IN - that will eventually work their way out and lower the quality of your work.

 

with any method, you of course will need to take into consideration repeats in the colorway of the yarn itself - this is particularly important when working with self patterning yarns to avoid disconcerting oddities in the finished project final appearance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...