Setting in sleeves

[TeaTrekkie]

I’ve only made vests before, thus avoiding the sleeves, but now I am just about done with a simple pattern for a top. As you can see from the picture, the sleeve’s top part is straight across (not rounded) and the body has a right angle to it like an “L”. My question is do I connect that entire L and the whole length of the top of the sleeve? The reason I ask is that the sleeve top measures exactly what the vertical part of the L measures. If I put the whole sleeve top over the whole length of the L, then I would have to stretch it to fit. Maybe that’s what you are supposed to do? (the pattern just says to set in the sleeves)

 

Thanks for any help with this!

[mamarose22]

I am trying to understand when and to what part would you stitch the bottom horizontal part of the "L.".

[TeaTrekkie]

I wouldn't consider sugar 'n cream cheapo yarn.  ounce per ounce it might even cost more.  It's just that the cotton yarn doesn't have much give and it is more dense.  They have cotton yarn in a sport weight if you ever have the dsire to use it for a top again.

Right after I posted that, I realized that was a bit harsh, S'nC is pretty decent yarn.  I just meant that I tend to gravitate towards the most 'economical' choices and that can be a big mistake.  I'll have to go over to their website and check out their other offerings.  

[mamarose22]

Yes, and I can't wait to see what it will look like after I wash it.   Not trying to put down this yarn as it has its place (dishcloths and little items), but I have learned my lesson....don't skimp on yarn for clothing.  I'll wear the top on Easter though and only my armpits will know I used cheapo yarn.  

I wouldn't consider sugar 'n cream cheapo yarn.  ounce per ounce it might even cost more.  It's just that the cotton yarn doesn't have much give and it is more dense.  They have cotton yarn in a sport weight if you ever have the dsire to use it for a top again.

[Granny Square]

It looks great!  Better than the pattern pic, I think.

[TeaTrekkie]

Yes, and I can't wait to see what it will look like after I wash it.   Not trying to put down this yarn as it has its place (dishcloths and little items), but I have learned my lesson....don't skimp on yarn for clothing.  I'll wear the top on Easter though and only my armpits will know I used cheapo yarn.  

[mamarose22]

the top looks just fine in the picture.  I like the color.  I would agree with you that sugar 'n cream is too thick to use for a top.  it would be ok for a cardigan. 

[magiccrochetfan]

It looks great, you did a great job! 

I can see where Sugar and Cream would make a really bulky underarm, esp if there is excess fabric there to begin with.  

Have fun wearing it

[TeaTrekkie]

I finished!  It turned out 'okay'.  I won't do this type of sleeve again though.  Too much bulk in the armpit area for me (I have smallish arms).  I do love the way the bodice turned out though, fits me just right.  Anyway, I adjusted the upper sleeve a bit by making it not so wide and added some rows.  I then ended up attaching the straight top of the sleeve to the vertical part of the L and the little horizontal part to the sleeve length.  It worked out, except there is just too much yarn there.  If I had used a better yarn, maybe it would be fine, but Lily Sugar 'n Cream is too bulky for this kind of sleeve.  (I put a little lace in the top area to help with the look of the pic.)  Even with its flaws, I might even wear it on Easter.  

 

Let me know what you think! 

[magiccrochetfan]

You're welcome 

it's so hard for me to describe this stuff in words, makes me really wish the pattern publishers would do a better job in words and use more pictures to help us all out!!

[mamarose22]

this is the pattern, correct? http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/70475AD.html

look at the photo of the sweater lying flat.  you can see how the rows run on the bodice and on the sleeve, helps see how the pieces are fitted together.  

 

On the schematic, notice the top of the sleeve measures either 16 or 18" and the vertical part of the front (or back) armhole is 8 or 9", half of the sleeve width.  the 16-18" edge of the sleeve is sewn to the vertical edge of the armhole...which will measure either 16 or 18 after you do the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice pieces.  Once you sew the top of sleeve to vertical edge of armhole, then you will sew the side edge of sleeve for a couple of inches to the horizontal part of the armhole.  Then finally you will sew the sleeve seam from the last of the armhole to the cuff.  and sew the sides of the bodice together.  

Ok now.  I finally got it.  Thanks.

[magiccrochetfan]

this is the pattern, correct? http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/70475AD.html

look at the photo of the sweater lying flat.  you can see how the rows run on the bodice and on the sleeve, helps see how the pieces are fitted together.  

 

On the schematic, notice the top of the sleeve measures either 16 or 18" and the vertical part of the front (or back) armhole is 8 or 9", half of the sleeve width.  the 16-18" edge of the sleeve is sewn to the vertical edge of the armhole...which will measure either 16 or 18 after you do the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice pieces.  Once you sew the top of sleeve to vertical edge of armhole, then you will sew the side edge of sleeve for a couple of inches to the horizontal part of the armhole.  Then finally you will sew the sleeve seam from the last of the armhole to the cuff.  and sew the sides of the bodice together.  

[magiccrochetfan]

i think with a sleeve this shape, you should ONLY seam the shoulders to join the front and back pieces at the shoulder.  then lay it out flat like the knitty page shows for the modified drop slv, and just insert the top of the sleeve into the U shape of the bodice armhole.  I think seaming the sides of the bodice will only make it harder to do.  

[TeaTrekkie]

I am trying to understand when and to what part would you stitch the bottom horizontal part of the "L.".

Yes, I got the shoulder seams together last night and one side seam.  That leaves an opening now for the sleeve and looks somewhat like a circle (with the bottom area straight across).  I seriously didn't see how I would get the sleeves I made to fit into that opening.  I am considering redoing them at this point into something more like a true set-in sleeve look.  

[magiccrochetfan]

Are you saying that you stitch the sleeve just along the long part of the "L" and then you stitch the sleeve from wrist to hem, and then you stitch the bottom of the "L" as if it were part of the side seam?  I hope I'm making sense.

 

You would not sew the sleeve together until it was sewn to the bodice. What i said above is the best i can describe it, the link to the knitty page is helpful.

[TeaTrekkie]

I love patterns w/ a lot of visual info, or at least a good written description, and usually skip over patterns that do not provide that. 

Have you seen Robyn Chachula's patterns?  her "Blueprint" books are outstanding in terms of visual info.  

Crochet Today magazine usually does a great job with the visuals too.  

Yes, I have seen her patterns.  Our library has quite a few decent crochet books.  I'll have to take a couple out again now that I know what I'm looking for.  As for Crochet Today, I just started a subscription a few months ago.     Clear and straightforward patterns with schematics!

[mamarose22]

Are you saying that you stitch the sleeve just along the long part of the "L" and then you stitch the sleeve from wrist to hem, and then you stitch the bottom of the "L" as if it were part of the side seam?  I hope I'm making sense.

[magiccrochetfan]

I love patterns w/ a lot of visual info, or at least a good written description, and usually skip over patterns that do not provide that. 

Have you seen Robyn Chachula's patterns?  her "Blueprint" books are outstanding in terms of visual info.  

Crochet Today magazine usually does a great job with the visuals too.  

[TeaTrekkie]

Oh sorry, I had stopped looking at the Ravelry posts for some reason.  And yes, why do all the books just say "Set in the sleeves"?  Gee, thanks, but that's just not enough for us visual learners.  :-)  

[magiccrochetfan]

Glad it helped :-)

I actually posted it earlier on your ravelry thread but I guess you hadn't seen it.

It would have been good if the pattern made the sleeve placement more clear! It would only take a couple of sentences or a small drawing, they could have very easily included it and eliminated confusion.

[TeaTrekkie]

Oh wow, that page is great!  Thanks for sending.  What I thought I understood...well, I had it wrong, but the now I get it!  My confusion must have come from all my years of sewing blouses with regular set in sleeves.  

 

One thing for certain, I am going to finish this top.  Even thought I may not wear it much (really the wrong color for me), I will learn from it.  That's always good.  :-)

[magiccrochetfan]

No, you are not supposed to ease the whole sleeve edge around the L. The corner of the sleeve fits into the corner of the L. On this page http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall04/FEATfall04TBP.html scroll to the drawing of the tops laid out flat, the modified drop sleeve, it shows the idea really well. If you put a marker at the inner corners of the L, and a marker at the outer corners of the top edge of the sleeve, then you can match the markers for placement of the sleeve. Do the shoulder seams to join the front and back first.

[TeaTrekkie]

Thanks, yes, that is what I finally have realized.  What would happen to that lower part of the L if I didn't ease the sleeve into it....that's what I finally asked myself.  I understand now.  I think this pattern (and yup, it's a Lion Brand Yarn pattern so it's a been tested) is just made this way to be 'easier' for beginners so there are less decrease/increase kinds of stitches, which really aren't that hard especially when compared to knitting (all that leaning to the left or right kinda makes my head spin).  Anyway, I think I have it now.  And thanks for all the help.

[mamarose22]

Even though it is straight, (I assume that this is what the pattern called for), you should still be able to stretch the straight top of the sleeve and ease it in to fit the "L" shape of the armhole providing you bound off loosely enough.  I am assuming that the pattern is written correctly and has been tested.

[TeaTrekkie]

Thank you for your imput, but I am wondering about the L shape of the arm holes lining up with the staight edge of the sleeve's top.  I might try it both ways and just take out what doesn't work.  

[mamarose22]

First sew up your shoulder seems.  Then match up the center top of the sleeve with the center of the shoulder, and gently ease in the sleeve to fit along the underarm.  Sew it together with a ladder stitch (I used to call it weaving it in and out), This will make a nice flat seam that will have some give.  When the sleeves are sewn in, then start sewing the underarms from the wrist of the sleeve all the way down the side of the sweater top to the bottom of the sweater.