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philosgal

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This was a little cryptic at first glance, even for Drops.

 

The pattern starts under the double lines, where it says 'Jacket'.

 

Everything above that is a general description, to be referred to later. "M1" is a stitch diagram that you will find under the arm of the outline of the sweater shown at the very bottom of the pattern. The M1 repeat is just 2 rows of singles, then a row of (DC, chain 1, repeat)

 

The pattern starts at the bottom; the left front, back, and right front are all 1 piece until you have to divide for the armholes (what it means by "Piece crochet back and forth from mid front".) So you are starting with a very long chain for the hem of the ruffle, the first row skips every 5th chain to start decreasing the ruffle, then following the pattern from there.

 

Was there a specific spot that didn't make sense? I scanned it and the only parts where my brain stuttered a bit initially was finding M1 (I was looking for a separate chart) and whether the body was worked in pieces.

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This was a little cryptic at first glance, even for Drops.

 

The pattern starts under the double lines, where it says 'Jacket'.

 

Everything above that is a general description, to be referred to later. "M1" is a stitch diagram that you will find under the arm of the outline of the sweater shown at the very bottom of the pattern. The M1 repeat is just 2 rows of singles, then a row of (DC, chain 1, repeat)

 

The pattern starts at the bottom; the left front, back, and right front are all 1 piece until you have to divide for the armholes (what it means by "Piece crochet back and forth from mid front".) So you are starting with a very long chain for the hem of the ruffle, the first row skips every 5th chain to start decreasing the ruffle, then following the pattern from there.

 

 

Was there a specific spot that didn't make sense? I scanned it and the only parts where my brain stuttered a bit initially was finding M1 (I was looking for a separate chart) and whether the body was worked in pieces.

 

Yes :( This part

 

Crochet 2 rows with 1 dc in each dc, then crochet 2 dc tog across the row – see DECREASING TIP-1 = 149-165-177-193-217-237 dc. Turn piece. Insert a marker 37-41-44-48-54-59 sts in from each side (back piece = 75-83-89-97-109-119 dc). Continue with 1 dc in each dc. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' dec 1 dc each side of both markers (4 dec per row), and repeat the dec on every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 7 times - see DECREASING TIP-1 = 121-137-149-165-189-209 dc

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OK, let me break this into more manageable bits.

 

Crochet 2 rows with 1 dc in each dc,

This is pretty clear

 

then crochet 2 dc tog across the row – see DECREASING TIP-1 = 149-165-177-193-217-237 dc.

Let's say you are making the smallest size. This row, you are turning each pair of DCs into 1 stitch as the pattern tip describes (decreasing 2 stitches together) At the end of this row, you will now have 149 stitches which is half the number of stitches that were in the prev. row.

 

Turn piece. Insert a marker 37-41-44-48-54-59 sts in from each side (back piece = 75-83-89-97-109-119 dc).

 

OK, we should be starting with 149 stitches. Again following the smallest size, you will place markers to divide the left front, back, right front as follows:

37 for first front half - place marker on the 38th stitch which will be first stitch for back

75 stitches for back - from the beginning, this will be stitches 38 thru 112. Place a stitch in the 112th stitch, the last stitch in the back, so your markers are in the first and last stitch of the back.(I thought this marking scheme would be easiest to remember).

37 stitches for other front half should remain. 37 + 75 + 37 = 149

 

Continue with 1 dc in each dc. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!

This is pretty clear. Move the markers up each row. You will be working in plain DC back and forth for 8cm before the next instruction starts.

 

When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' dec 1 dc each side of both markers (4 dec per row), and repeat the dec on every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 7 times - see DECREASING TIP-1 = 121-137-149-165-189-209 dc

This is where you will start to create waist shaping. You have 2 markers, so decrease before and after each marker, which would be a decrease of 4 total stitches per row. Don't incorporate the marked stitch into the decreases, this will keep the side "seams" straight. After you've finished this row, work however many rows = 2cm, and repeat the decreases. Keep making decrease rows every 2 cm after the last one until the total # of decrease rows is 7. At this point you should have 149-4-4-4-4-4-4-4=121 stitches. You might want to mark one column of increases to keep track of how many you've done, if they are hard to spot.

 

If you've never used/don't have stitch markers, my favorite is bobby pins, but you can use paper clips or safety pins as well.

Edited by Granny Square
Noticed you were in Pakistan - chaned my inch reference to cm!

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I need help with one of Mrs. Dots Patterns.

The Short Round Poncho.

 

It says at the end of 2-6 rounds:

 

(end with yo, pull up a loop in same sp as last st,

yo, pull up a loop in same space as FIRST ST of round,

(ignore beginning ch 2),

yo, draw thru 5 loops on hook.

ch 1, join in first crossed bar st.)

 

When I've made the last Crossed Stitch I am right next to the Ch 2 of the beginning round.

What do I do next ( step by step ) Plz

Edited by kahillman43
Make it Clearer

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yarn over hook pull loop through in the same stitch you did the last stitch (3 loops on hook) go over the ch 2 and yarn over hook pull a loop up from the same place of the first stitch you did after the ch2 (5 loops on hook) pull through all 5 loops ch 1, join in first crossed bar st you did in the rnd.

 

>>>>>end with yo, pull up a loop in same sp as last st,

yo, pull up a loop in same space as FIRST ST of round,

(ignore beginning ch 2), yo, draw thru 5 loops on hook.ch 1, join in first crossed bar st.)<<<<<

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