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Wild, wild rose - 15"doll --image intense


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Wild, Wild Rose… 15” doll





WW yarn in 4 colours.


5.5mm, 6.mm hook


3 elastic waistbands


4 buttons.


Join all rounds unless told otherwise …


V-st = [dc, ch1, dc] in same st



Shrug… w/ WW deep rose yarn and 6.mm hook ch 10…





Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook and ea ch across. (9 hdc)


Row 2: hdc evenly.


Row 3-6: 2 DC in first, dc to last, 2dc in last


Row 7: dc evenly and join.


Rows 8-11: dc evenly.


Edge with sc/ch 3/sk 1. Break off and join yarn at beginning row.


Repeat the pattern for the other side of shrug.



The collar…


Row 1: att yarn at Centre back and work around opening with [dc in 1, 2dc in next]


Row 2: work around in [V-st in 1, sk 1]


Row 3: V-st in V-st.



Button closers…




Make 2…


Sew together 2 buttons leaving a long loop between them.


The button closers will work in a variety of locations or even with just one.



Beret… w/ deep rose WW yarn and 6.mm hook ch 4




Row 1: 11 dc in 4th ch from hook. (12dc)


Row 2: ch 4, dc in same st, V-st [dc,ch1,dc] in every st around.


Row 3: slst into V-st. V-st in ea V-st.


Row 4: slst into V-st… V-st in ea V-st and 1 dc between ea V-st.


Row 5: V-st in every V-st and 2 dc into ea lone dc.


Row 6: work evenly in V-st and dc.


Row 7: work V-st in ea V-st and work dec over the 2dc sets.


Row 8: 2dc in ea V-st and sc into lone dc.




Change to 5.5mm hook


Row 9: hdc evenly around.


Row 10-11: *hdc in 1, FPdc around next* rep to end.


Add floral trims as you wish.









Legs – make 2 and do not break off after 2nd leg. All rounds are joined


Ch 18 and join to form ring…


Row 1 dc evenly around

Row 2-7: increase one on ea row.


Your Torso rows begin and end at Centre Front.


T Row 1: Align the two legs and join with 6 sc, ch 1. Begin working in dc around the leg sections, Put the first dc in the same stitch as the sc join.


It might be helpful here to go to the back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 5 from the Centre Back join on each side.


Dc to your first marker… work [2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc] over the five stitches, work 3 TR into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in dc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join.


Row T2-T3: work evenly in dc.


Row T4: work dc but work 1 decrease on each side of back (2 decreases).


Row T5: work a row of hdc around an elastic waistband. Join. Break off and tidy all ends.



Long Skirt






w/ lt rose WW yarn and 5.5mm hook work 42 sc over elastic waistband.


Row 1: dc evenly.


Rows 2-10 : work in dc making 2 increases on each row. Either stagger increases or put increases at ‘side seams’.


Row 11:dc in 33, hdc in 3, sc in 1, hdc in 3, dc to last, 2dc in last. Break off and tidy ends.


Work a row of white trim. I used [sc dec in ea stitch] across.


Short Skirt…





Work as for long skirt but only 6 rows of dc and edge with pink. I worked [slst in 1, ch 1, sk 1] across.









Do not join rounds.


w/ WW yarn and 5.5mm hook ch21


Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across.(20 hdc)


Row 2: sc in 1st. 2 sc in back loops only to last, sc in last. (38 sc)


Row 3:dc in 5, V-st in next, dc in 8, V-st in next, dc in 10, V-st in next, dc in 8, V-st in next, dc in 4.


Row 5: dc in every dc and V-st in V-st. Break off pink.


Row 6: att white… dc in 6, 2dc in V-st, sk to next V-st, 2dc in V-st, dc in 14, 2dc in V-st, sk to next V-st, 2dc in V-st, dc in 6.


Row 7: dc in 2, *2dc in next, dc in 3* rep to end.


Row 8: dc in 4, *ch2, slst in 2nd ch from hook (picot made)dc in 5* rep to last 3, dc in 3.


Sc up back left edge. Break off and att yarn on right back edge and sc along working button loops. Break off and tidy all ends. Sew on buttons.





Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2012


I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.


However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.


Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.




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